Great White

lol, that's the same as a vboost stage 7. Wide open all the time. Stage 7 thows in some jet work and pod filters to match it though. Chummy there has just remade the vboost castings with his info cast on it. Easily done in any backyard foundry. I especially like the "pat pending". Yamaha would have had a field day with that one. Or, maybe he is out of business because Yamaha did find out..... Here's my VBoost for comparison: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r618/justonepict/CA2C3555-8CD0-44C3-936F-0751D62FC882_zpsloanxbe0.jpg At any rate, definitely snake oil as marketed for MPG and HP. You can buy the same stuff for a VMax under the name "stage 7". Basically uses the castings and replaces the butterfly with the straight tube. Sure as heck doesn't improve MPG, but it will improve HP in the upper rpm range. makes a VMax "soft" on the bottom end. Needs lots of jet and needle work to get it carburating well throughout the rpm range, but it can be done. Chuck some vmax cams in that puppy and jet it properly and it'll go like stink! Your wiring just looks like someone tried to do something with the fuse box or tried to add some accessories and ended up the way it is now...

I actually think it is on point. Windows 10 is far more intrusive to your settings, updates, usage, etc than any other windows before. Just more of the data mining that seems to have become an industry standard. You need to turn a lot of things off that are enabled by default. Mainly because Microsoft knows best (so they think). A lot of Mac people I know are saying Microsoft has copied Mac's scheme of free updates to the OS. Not fooling me, nothings free. Microsoft has probably just figured out they can make more money of your usage data than they will selling the software. They could give two whits about with websites you frequent or which places you shop. You joe blow nobody as far as they're concerned. They just want the data so they can sell it to advertisers and other shysters out there....

Same thing I'm running. No idea how old it is, came with the bike. PO had the bike (1983) from brand new....

yup. Middle of the street or upside down. Wouldn't be an option for most females either....

I'd be pissed if I was the guy driving that white SUV. Buddy driving that 3 wheeled thing would come out to to find a crushed and totally F'd up fiberglass pile. I've got nothing against alternate transportation or "saving the planet", but that is just bloody rude to jam it in to a space between two cars and block someone in. Not to mention, that's metered parking that I'd be pretty sure he's not paying for.....

Are you talking about the computer or...........

Then just turn it off and walk away. We all have that choice, when not at work that is. Lets also not forget: the computer is just a piece of technology. It knows no prejudice or malice. It just is. It's the humans using the computer that are destroying the "trusted and simple lives". That's been the nature of our species forever. Always trying to get the "one up" on the other. It's nature, it's biology, it's programmed into us, it's survival of the fittest mutated to fit the modern condition. Technology isn't the problem with Orwellian fears , the problem is us....

Never heard of it. Sounds like snake oil IMHO. Like the 100 MPG carburetor or 100 MPG spark plug. Lowering intake velocity is opposite of what you want. Velocity and turbulence is needed in a carbureted engine to mix the fuel with the airstream to burn properly in the cylinder. If anything, you want to increase velocity to improve MPG. Jetting down just makes for less fuel and a lean condition, regardless of velocity. That could account for some MPG gain and lean engines make a smooth more power, but they also run hot and have a high potential to take out a valve or errors the valve seats quickly.... Any chance we could get a picture of this "Tugs Induction"? I'm curious to see what they think an improvement in MPG and power looks like.....

Not to beat a dead horse, but if both front calipers are connected to the front master, its an easy reach from the bar to the bleeders. Ditto for the rear brake and rear master. What I was getting at with "de-linking" was it eliminates any need at all to reach from the rear pedal to the bleed nipple on the steering head or the front left caliper. That was my main point and I guess I didn't explain it well enough. I'll leave it alone now.

Cop are easy. Just solder the + and - from each cop to the + and - from the bike harness. If running the oem tci, you get into needing cops with the right resistance values, but that is "selectable" in the ignitec programming so I didn't have to worry about it. Ignitec is plug it in and ride off on an otherwise stock bike from what I understand....

I saw what looked liek a drip at about 5:12, but it was dripping off what appeared to be one of the float bowl retaining screws (allen head screw). If it's coming out of there, you've got a leaking bowl seal. Would be highly unusual, I never seen one fail without it being pinched or cut by some ham fisted maintenance. I'd be looking at hte fuel feed line or the tubing up on top if it were me chasing down a leak. I've seen those leak more often than a bowl o-ring....

Geez, sunny here today and it was 17C yesterday. This winter is shaping up pretty good for us. Not so much for those just south of us though.......

CB antennas are a specific length due to the frequency requirements of am. You can go to any of the fiberglass wound antennas, but shorter always effects your range adversely. If you go shorter, look for a "top load" type. It will be listed on the package. Or you can go to a base load antenna like a Wilson 5000 or the old k40. They're pretty short as most of the antenna is wound in the base coil. Range pretty much sucks on a motorcle for CB anyways (comparatively). No real base plane to speak of for the antenna to work off. A good CB gets out about 14-15 miles on a stock head unit and correct antenna setup. You can push 20 on flat terrain, 25 if you're on top of the only hill in an area. If you're getting out 4-5 miles on a bike you're doing good....

I'm sort of off the beaten trail, so any extras on mine are mostly related to making the VMax stuff work. Most posts I see on the ignitec are guys plugging them in and riding off. I've also gone to a modern day sh775ba regulator (series vs oem shunt) to lighten load on the generator and get a more stable voltage. Its from polaris and off a razor iirc. Most electronics dont react well to voltage fluctuations. Adding the sh775 reg gives more accurate and stable system voltage as compared to the oem shunt style reg. I'm going to say you don't need it, but i wanted that little bit of an insurance policy, electrically that is. Plus, a modern reg is easier to source in the event of a break down compared to the oem SH545. Any of the modern MOSFET regs ( ie: fh0xx) will also plug in a pinch as they use the same connectors as the sh775. Even any of the fh0xx regs will still work better than the SH545... Like most of my good buys, i grabbed the sh775 off eBay for 20 bucks from a bike wrecker in Quebec. Quebecers must wad a lot of bikes! Seems all my Canadian bought used bike parts come from wreckers in Quebec!. I was watchjng ebay for one to pop up cheap, (like i do with most thing I buy for the bike) and when on e did i pounced. Came in around 50 bucks with shipping. Unordered a triumph reg conversion harness (same connectors as sh775 reg) from a local triumph dealer form12 bucks. A little soldering and I'm good to go.

Actually, brake feel and ease of bleeding is a a good reason to de-link the brakes. Its all part and parcel of the same issues. De-linking removes several feet of tortuously routed lines and several couplings which are always a place to trap air in the system. The more joints, the more chance for entrapped air. The more line there is the more fluid had to be pumped out to drag out the air. Easier to reach the master and bleed screws simultaneously is just a bonus. Running two lines and a double banjo bolt on the front master (how I did it as well) even eliminates the need for a "splitter" and yet another place to entrap air. I have fought with splitters trapping air my entire life and despise them, they go in the trash first chance I get. Double front master lines forever! But if you want to do KISS, just get your wife to work the pedal for you as you bleed the system. That's about as simple as it gets. Might end up with a different style of KISS at the end.... And you get to spend some time together doing something productive. Or get your kids to help. Same benefits plus kids get to think they've "helped dad work on the motorcycle" while gaining some knowledge/skills.

Cop (with harness) cost me approx 30 bucks (eBay). Came from a cbr600rr. Ignitech was around 300 bucks once it arrived at my door (shipping+exchange). Bought it off a member here who bought it and sold his bike before he installed it. Need it to upload the VMax program and run the vboost solenoid...

PayPal works. I'll figure out what's wrong and send you a PM.

I prefer to stop leaving enough room to jank off to the side of the road if need be and let the offending potential rear ender hit the car that was in front of me. I tend to always leave myself at least one "way out". Of course, that's assuming I even see it coming....

Yup. A coiled line is also a form of RF choke. Not as effective on a DC power line, but it will still has a choking effect.

this is usually more for AM issues, but go grab yourself a ferrite (ie: iron) bead (the split type that clips shut) and put a wrap of the power cord in it. You want the bead as close to the power source (in this case, the adapter) as possible. Keep adding wraps until it either goes away or the ferrite can't hold any more wraps. You're probably going to at least have 2-3 wraps before it does much of anything. Like so: http://www.cisco.com/c/dam/en/us/td/i/300001-400000/340001-350000/347001-348000/347546.eps/_jcr_content/renditions/347546.jpg What you are doing is making and RF choke on the power line. It may work, it may not. I've fixed lots of AM static interference problems this way. Often, the power cord on a DC device will produce RF, acting like a transmitting antenna. I've never had a problem with it adversely effecting FM (although I have heard it faintly), but it's worth a try. And if it doesn't work, you're only out a couple bucks. Ferrite beads are cheap....

I went coil on plug conversion and now my battery lives where the coils used to. Put the "coil connectors" right on top of the COP's. Super easy to get to now instead of hte burried mess where they used to be. Weight of the battery is still just as high, but now more of it is over the front wheel. More room for a larger airbox too.....

Whats it like with the cell phone and charger not even in the truck?

Yet another good reason to get rid of those stupid linked brakes....

All my win7 are now win10. seamless transition. Probably the easiest windows upgrade I've ever done. next to no learning curve going from 7 to 10. one thing i do not like at all is that bloody windows cortana replacing the search function on win 10. Win7 was much better when you just wanted to search your computer.nyouncan force cortana to only search your drives in the settings, but its a pita that microsoft shouldnt have done in the first place. we're not all social media surferes on the internet....

So here's your options: Small packet - 12 bucks - ETD - could be couple weeks. No insurance or tracking that I know of. Xpress post USA - 33 bucks - 5 business days - guaranteed delivery Expedited USA - 20 bucks - 6 business days Tracked packet - 18 bucks - 7 business days. It just gets stupid expensive from there. Don't worry about the cigar. Too expensive to get something nice. If you want you can chuck 10 bucks in and that will let me buy an electrical harness I need for a regulator/rectifier swap to a series reg on my bike.