Skid Posted October 3, 2014 Share #1 Posted October 3, 2014 My next question reference trailer wiring is where would be the best place to mount the power isolator for the trailer? Doesn't look like much room under the seat so I'm looking for additional ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted October 3, 2014 Share #2 Posted October 3, 2014 My next question reference trailer wiring is where would be the best place to mount the power isolator for the trailer? Doesn't look like much room under the seat so I'm looking for additional ideas. After wiring the ISO into my '99 it fit down along side the battery box. You might want to pick up one of M61A1MECH's wiring adapters rather than splicing into the existing wires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted October 3, 2014 Share #3 Posted October 3, 2014 I second the adapter, I put mine on the fender right behind the seat and ran the wiring in a loom under the chrome rail that the fenders mount to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted October 3, 2014 Yes the adapter is on order and should be here Monday. So I will wire up my additional lights and get the trailer plug completed. Just wondering if anyone had some good ideas that I haven't thought of to place the module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted October 3, 2014 Share #5 Posted October 3, 2014 mine fits on top of battery and is zip tied in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M61A1MECH Posted October 3, 2014 Share #6 Posted October 3, 2014 There is more under the seat than you think, root around in there and reposition the wires and you should be able to make room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted October 3, 2014 Share #7 Posted October 3, 2014 mine is behind seat under trunk, zipped tied up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rooster Posted October 3, 2014 Share #8 Posted October 3, 2014 Hey Skid,just an idea.When I wired up my Harley lights instead of splicing into bikes wiring I used a trailer plug and plugged the lights into the plug on the bike.When I pulled the trailer I just unplugged the Harley lights and plugged the trailer lights because I didn't need the Harley lights cause I had the trailer lights on. Just a thought and saved splicing into the bike wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rooster Posted October 3, 2014 Share #9 Posted October 3, 2014 Another suggestion if you install the Harley lights.You can buy the generic eye brows at a Harley dealer for about $10.If you get the ones with the Harley logo or the skull be prepared to pay big bucks.Not hijacking the trailer thread but I think I saw a post about the Harley lights you was looking for. Just my 10c worth.(Inflation) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syscrusher Posted October 3, 2014 Share #10 Posted October 3, 2014 Why are we worried about isolating the trailer lights? I'm think I should know this but does it just kept the load stable on those signal lines? I'm assuming that it contains line drivers and latches for powering the trailer's lighting. I ask because I don't think my PO's installation has an isolator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peder_y2k Posted October 3, 2014 Share #11 Posted October 3, 2014 Put it in the trailer. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 3, 2014 Share #12 Posted October 3, 2014 Why are we worried about isolating the trailer lights? I'm think I should know this but does it just kept the load stable on those signal lines? I'm assuming that it contains line drivers and latches for powering the trailer's lighting. I ask because I don't think my PO's installation has an isolator. There are a few reasons to use an isolator. 1. All of the power that goes to the trailer will not have to come thru the ignition switch. These bikes are known to have a weak ignition switch. It also saves wear and tear on the flasher and brake light switches. 2. If there should be an issue with the trailer wiring it can not cause the bikes lighting to also fail. This is more of an issue with boat trailers, especially ones that go into salt water. 3. You can run as many lights of any type on the trailer as you wish, without having any adverse effect on the bike, such as fast or slow blinking of turn signals, or overloading lighting circuits and blowing a fuse. Is an isolator absolutely necessary? No. Many people run without one successfully. But it is recomended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted October 3, 2014 Share #13 Posted October 3, 2014 I agree with Jeff, protect the wiring by isolating the circuit could save lot$ of ca$h down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share #14 Posted October 4, 2014 OK, I think the isolator will work on top of the battery. Just need to make sure & protect it from getting to the positive post of the battery. The HD lights will plug in behind the stock tail light without cutting any wires. I think I will only use the HD lights as additional brakes lights and not as constant running lights. I think the extra lights coming on will be more eye catching, but I may change my mind eventually. I hoping to find a way to convert the HD lights to LED in time if I can find a way without breaking the bank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pofarm Posted October 5, 2014 Share #15 Posted October 5, 2014 I mounted mine with double sided tape to the right side of the battery box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share #16 Posted October 8, 2014 Well I knew things were going too good. I got everything wired up and the trailer lights does work, but the turn signals & four-way does not. Got to be a common issue to cause this. Any ideas where I should start searching? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M61A1MECH Posted October 8, 2014 Share #17 Posted October 8, 2014 Probably the isolator is not wired correctly, maybe bad connection (crimped on to insulationinstead of conductor) or is defective. Try switching the brake circuit that goes into into the isolator with one of the turn signal inputs see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share #18 Posted October 8, 2014 OK I'll double check the connection. The Isolator has a red wire for brake/stop and the bike's yellow wire is brake/stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share #19 Posted October 9, 2014 Ok I went back over the connections and found everything good. But I had both grounds connected to the bike's ground / frame and not to the battery ground terminal. I'm not sure the difference, but there is. After connecting direct to battery everything worked good. Now to find a better way to reduce the number of connections to the battery. Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted October 9, 2014 Share #20 Posted October 9, 2014 See PM I sent you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share #21 Posted October 29, 2014 Just an update on my latest upgrade. I added the HD lights on the rear and purchased a set of visors to make them match the existing lights. Also got the trailer wiring isolator and harness completed and tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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