bigclyde Posted December 29, 2013 Share #1 Posted December 29, 2013 Purchased a Royale and can't get her to run to save my life. When I squirt starting fluid in the carbs she runs then dies. Not sure where to start please help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adavidson56304 Posted December 29, 2013 Share #2 Posted December 29, 2013 I'd start with gas. Do you hear the fuel pump click when you turn the key on, before you start it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted December 29, 2013 Share #3 Posted December 29, 2013 Yup! Start with the fuel system. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump will click for around 5 seconds or so and then stop. This is normal, the fuel pump relay is special and has a circuit that times out when you key on, and will only restart when spark is detected. You say it does start but then dies which suggests you have spark. There are fuel bowl drains that you can remove to see just what kind of gas or crud you have in your carburetors. With full bowls I would expect the bike to run for several minutes before running dry. You may have stuck needle valves, or you may have a clogged fuel filter, or a clogged petcock on the fuel tank. Start with disconnecting the outlet side of the fuel pump, install a temporary hose into a jar or something, and turn the key on and off a few times to see what is coming out of the fuel pump. Next I would pull the line from the gas tank and see what is coming out of the tank. You might have a contaminated fuel tank. Get back to us and we can advise you where to go next... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 29, 2013 Share #4 Posted December 29, 2013 Fuel delivery sounds to be it. All the stuff bongobobby mentioned and get back to us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted December 29, 2013 Share #5 Posted December 29, 2013 First of all bigclide, welcome to the forum and we hope you join and will not be shy. It will be the best $12 you will ever spend on your bike. As noted, it does sound like a fuel supply problem, but let me give you a little more info on the fuel pump. As noted, when you turn on the ignition, you should hear clicks for a few seconds. But, the trick is to leave the ignition on and use the kill switch near the right grip to turn off and then back on to repeat the fuel pump cycle to fill the carbs. If the bike has been setting, you may have to cycle the switch ten times to fill the carbs. Once the clicking slows down and stops, the carbs should be full. Some of these bikes are real sensitive to the start procedure and on mine, I do NOT touch the throttle and as I start cranking it over, I will slowly increase the choke until it starts. This way, I am not likely to flood the bike. Another thing these bikes are very sensitive about is the spark plugs. I run the cheap Autolites that I get at Advance Auto in mine and they run good. I have put 142,000 miles on mine since I have had it, so something must be OK. As said, please keep us posted and you will get a lot of help, up to and maybe including one of our members stopping by and helping you. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted December 29, 2013 Share #6 Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Go on line and download a factory service manual, I got mine on e-bay. NEXT: Go to walmart and buy 10 cans of their carb leaner, it's cheap and will do the job. While you are there get a couple cans of Sea Foam gas treatment; it is the sh_ _! Oh yeah remove the top cover, air filter and air cleaner box. See the manual. AFTER locating where the drain valve are in the manual you will find there are 4 drain (or should be) hoses 2 on a side just outboard of the carbs. At one time they were labeled. With a long skinny screwdriver and a good light locate the bowl drain valves with coffee can in hand under the drain hos open the valve a few turns drain the crud out. when it stops go to the next carb and repeat. Find a way to seal the little red stem that comes with the carb cleaner to the drain hose, put the screwdriver on the drain valve and fill the bowl; you'll know it's full when you see the cleaner coming out of the tops of the carbs. Gently close the carb drain while the bowl is full, let soak a while. repeat like 4 times for each carb. Get some new gas in the bike, put a lot of Seafoam in it, change the plugs or check and re-gap the ones in there. after your all done fill the bowls and see if she'll start. Oh yeah WELCOME!!! it'll BE THE BEST 12 BUCKS YOU EVER SPENT JOINING THIS SITE! Edited December 29, 2013 by dna9656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwpatryn Posted December 29, 2013 Share #7 Posted December 29, 2013 I have a long history with an '87 that at times would also start but run-well. In each case I ended up giving to a shop where they disassembled the carbs, gave them a complete cleaning then reassembling. Unfortunately, when these old carbs are blocked, nothing short of a complete teardown will do. Just removing them from the bike is very labor intensive. If you go this route, be prepared for a huge bill. Just to clear the air, I've also tried the Sea Foam route as well as numerous other cleaners and solvents. If you dig around, you'll find several other posts from me on this subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted December 29, 2013 Share #8 Posted December 29, 2013 Yes, even doing the rebuild yourself runs over $200 in parts to do a complete job to make them like new... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted December 29, 2013 Share #9 Posted December 29, 2013 Ride the thing!!! Don't let it sit! If you do have to let it sit for awhile , make double sure it isn't with ethanol gas in it. Turn off the fuel and drain the carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigclyde Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share #10 Posted December 29, 2013 Well I followed all the advice here and I got her started and running long enough to sync the carbs, she was running pretty hot so I shut her down. After she cooled off a bit I tried to crank he up and nothing, checked all the fuses and noticed the solenoid clicks, then I noticed fuel spilling from carb #1. After further investigation I am missing a brass bolt 10mm I think on bottom of carb. Four carbs three bolts, I searched and can't find it so now I have to find one somewhere. I am also thinking the stator is bad considering I just replaced the started solenoid a few days ago. Any one have an idea where I can get one of those bolts. Also any idea on the possible stator being bad. It does have the mod with the bolt drilled, I checked. Anyways I was proud to get her going then devastated at the set back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 30, 2013 Share #11 Posted December 30, 2013 I can't help with the missing bolt. But there is a writeup on testing for charging issues. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted December 30, 2013 Share #12 Posted December 30, 2013 OK first metric bolts. Unless it is specialty, Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Auto Zone, etc have metric hardware. Second, on the alternator, unfortunately dynamic testing is best. It is rare that a 1st gen a stator is toast. The usual culprit is the connector below the seat corrodes. The R/R is more prone to failure, and there are a lot of aftermarket ones out there that are good replacements. The R/R connector can also corrode and cause problems. I would first have the battery checked with a good load tester, and if a replacement is in order then put a Deka AGM battery in. We will teach you how to fix the battery acid level sensor issue. It's an easy mod. Requires a 2000 ohm resistor being placed in series with the probe lead to the battery plus. Getting back to the stator, you can check it with an ohmmeter, the value should be within 10% with any combination of 2 out of three white wires. Also, each lead to ground should read infinity. The dynamic test is to check the AC voltage between any combination of 2 white wires and they should be the same, and should increase AC voltage with increased RPM. To test the R/R (Regulator/ Rectifier) check the voltage across the battery with a DC voltmeter. At idle you should see close to 13 volts, and more like 14 volts at higher RPM's. This test should be done after you confirm the stator is good, but if it fails before, then test the stator... Keep up the work, we are here for support! There may even be a knowledgeable member close to you that can help in person. Trust us, a good running 1st gen is a treasure to be enjoyed!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted December 30, 2013 Share #13 Posted December 30, 2013 What year do you have ? I have some old carbs off of one of my 84 parts bikes. Probably the same bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted December 30, 2013 Share #14 Posted December 30, 2013 I forgot to mention that on the 1983 Ventures the temperature gauge normally reads high, so chances are you weren't overheating like you thought. The gauge will read just below the red. It's scary at first but unless the fan is kicking on it's probably OK. Of course it's not a bad idea to flush the cooling system anyway and replace the thermostat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrlinEngh Posted December 30, 2013 Share #15 Posted December 30, 2013 I would use carb cleaner to help starting alot better for the motor than starting fluid. Orlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted January 3, 2014 Share #16 Posted January 3, 2014 Bolt is in the mail. Good luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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