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Now I've done it!!!


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I amassed a pile or parts over the winter and have finally decided to install them. This all started by watching Dingy modify his rides. Now I have a new TCI, coil over plugs, battery relocation, rotor and stator replacements, gear position indicator switch, clutch slave cyl, new clutch assembly, and fuse box replacement under way. More parts are arriving every day for the fuse box rewiring, which will be extensive.

 

I may be nuts but it's too late to turn back now! :doh:

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From a design aspect, I can't agree with the new battery location position. Needs to be all the way down to the bottom of the side case for adequate load bearing. Where you have it now MAY result in a shock load failure of the support system/sidecase. At the bottom, stress will be carried by the sidecase support steel frame.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

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From a design aspect, I can't agree with the new battery location position. Needs to be all the way down to the bottom of the side case for adequate load bearing. Where you have it now MAY result in a shock load failure of the support system/sidecase. At the bottom, stress will be carried by the sidecase support steel frame.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

 

Pete,

 

You are correct. After I took the picture I decided to relocate the box to the front lower portion of the right saddlebag. I am still waiting for the welding cable and ends to make the connections.

 

Thanks for the input, it is greatly appreciated.

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Aren't ya supposed to do the project in the winter and ride in the summer?

 

Looks like you have a good handle on her

 

I guess that I like to tinker as much as ride. I enjoy finding out whether the modifications work as expected. I am probably worse than Jeff when it comes to "while you are in there".

 

The clutch is in and the gear indicator switch is in. Wire for the COP connections came yesterday. Bad karma with the rotor cover as the shifter bushing tab had been welded and the bushings were toast. New cover coming from ebay.

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Trader, COP = Coil On Plug, this replaces the coil packs and plug wires. Putting the coil right on the plugs eliminates the plug wires and they have just normal wires running to them. And yes, what Honda donated these COP & wiring?!?!? I would love to do this, as I have the new TCI also.

 

-Andrew

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FYI on the COP's installation.

 

Use of COP's with a stock TCI MUST include resistors in the 12V+ side of coil or TCI will be damaged. Cop's have a lower primary resistance and this leads to higher current flow than stock coils.

 

I do not know specifics on resistor, other than it is a large ceramic unit and it disipates a lot of heat.

 

I can get contact info from a VMax member that supplies COP's kits.

 

Ignitech TCI's have a dwell setting that eliminates need for resistors.

 

I have had COP's for 2 years now, without resistors & an Ignitech TCI and bike runs fine.

 

Gary

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:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

 

I learned, all that I know about the COP's, from Gary. I intend to install the Ignitech TCI along with the COP's. The ones that I am using are from a 2008 Honda CBR1000. From 2008 on they have a metal case and are shorter. The Honda wiring will be scrapped and new TLX wire run from the COP connectors to the TCI connector. I will post a picture of the OEM Yamaha wires for the coils, you won't believe the whoop-t-do they take to get the job done.

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What is the cost of making this conversion on VR?

 

:mytruck1:

 

The Ignitech was the most expensive portion of the conversion. I don't remember the exact amount, maybe around $265.00. The COP's and harness are ebay finds at $50.00. The TXL wire $25.00 and replacement terminal pins for the Honda connectors about $5.00. If You already have the crimper and stripper, that's about it. Gary provides the Ignitech setup to properly match the COP primary impedance. Out go the coils and OEM TCI , #18 wires from COP connectors to the new TCI plug and off you go. :happy34:

 

I chose to relocate the battery to make more room to relocate the R/R, new fuse panel and reduce the cramped space for all that wiring. I believe that a considerable amount of the wires can be eliminated through the use of a 12+ bus and a 12- terminal block. Move ALL fuses to the new block and eliminate the hidden splices in the wire loom. There are more of them than I imagined there would or should be. :starz:

 

I want to offer a special thanks to Gary for his patience with my many questions and the value and accuracy of the information he provided!! :clap2:

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Finished the starter (four pole) and the clutch slave cyl. replacement. While I was in there it would be obvious to anyone (thanks Jeff :backinmyday:) that the covers need to be stripped, polished and re-coated.

 

New stator cover showed today and is in good condition. It still contained the pickups and the stator. Worked some on the rewiring, getting a better handle of how the finished product should look. :think:

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Attached are a few pictures of COP's (coil over plugs).

 

Ones in Tweety are from a Honda 2007 CBR.

 

I have another set for the Hybrid of same thing, shows 06-07 fitment.

 

If you look for used ones, get a set that has wiring harness with them, makes install easier.

 

Gary

DSC02671.jpg

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On my side car I have put battery between moto / side. it s a car battery 35 ampéres, and it s good for starter; 12 years I made this and no trouble with stator, many people put battery (car) in the boot of the side car, I have see one in the top case:no-no-no: but it s not very good for me..............

 

michel

 

http://img15.hostingpics.net/thumbs/mini_98113712V.jpg

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Michel,

 

There is room in the sidecar for a small car battery. This would require constructing a strong bracket above the auxiliary fuel tank. That option is still on the stove, just not on the front burner.

 

What sidecar do you use? The frame design looks familiar but I cannot place the manufacturer.

 

Thanks for the input, it is much appreciated,

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