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Just took my RSV out of the shop after winter upgrades. It is running great, however, .....

 

When I hit it hard, the darn clutch slips. I have an upgraded Skydoc17 spring and have done the Freebird mod. If I drive normally, it doesn't slip. But if I really hammer it, the clutch slips in second and third gear. I was travelling too fast at the time to see if it would also slip in fourth, but I'm sure it will.

 

I am looking for a solution so I don't have to deal with this every couple of years.

 

OK, the question is:

 

Barnett clutch with coil springs? Is that the most solid solution? Getting to the point that I don't care about the cost.

 

RR

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I think the Barnett is the way to go in the long run.

 

The wavy diaphragm style springs are going to lose tension faster than the coils.

 

When you did the clutch last time, did you replace the fiber discs as well or just install the new spring and replace the half disc with a full?

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I think the Barnett is the way to go in the long run.

 

The wavy diaphragm style springs are going to lose tension faster than the coils.

 

When you did the clutch last time, did you replace the fiber discs as well or just install the new spring and replace the half disc with a full?

 

Changed fibers and steels (had blued the steels).

 

RR

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Changed fibers and steels (had blued the steels).

 

RR

Hmmm, just a thought, but your master cylinder is not over full is it? :confused24:

If it is over full, heat causes the trapped fluid to expand and that will partially disengage the clutch, causing slippage.

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Jeff, my personal choice is the Barnett conversion. I have had mine now since 2004 or 2005 with no issues. Its a true upgrade as far as im concerned. I also went with the Barnett carbon fiber discs but used the stock plates. And I never changed the small disc. It was never an issue. 40k later it was still running fine.

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Seems strange that the clutch is bad again after only a short time. Also usually the slipping starts in the higher gears (4th and 5th).

If yours is actually slipping in the lower gears I wouldn't think it would even move in the higher gears.

Don't have a solution, just my thoughts.

BOO

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Hmmm, just a thought, but your master cylinder is not over full is it? :confused24:

If it is over full, heat causes the trapped fluid to expand and that will partially disengage the clutch, causing slippage.

 

One of the winter projects was installation of SS lines, including the clutch. I will double check the fluid level in the MC.

 

While the slippage happens even when everything is just warmed up, this is still one of the troubleshooting items that should be reviewed. Good thought.

 

RR

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Seems strange that the clutch is bad again after only a short time. Also usually the slipping starts in the higher gears (4th and 5th).

If yours is actually slipping in the lower gears I wouldn't think it would even move in the higher gears.

 

I haven't really tried to hit is hard in the higher gears. Will do that when going for a short ride later this afternoon.

 

While it has been only a short time since I last installed the updated clutch, it has been about 30-40k miles.:smile5:

 

RR

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Hmmmm....

 

I would think that your type of long distance riding should not be hard on the clutch.

Where I ride 40 miles to work every day all of it in stop and go city traffic. It is very rare for me to get out on the highway. My spring upgrade is now at 4 years old.

 

Did you do anything recently like change engine oil brand or type?

 

Another Hmmmmmm.......

I seem to remember something about a bad batch of springs a couple of years back........

Something else to look into.

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A non-fitting Clutch Lever can keep the Clutch partly open, so would a blocked Relief-Hole in the bottom of the Rservoir.

 

Fluid expands when the Things get hotter, there's not Way to get the created Pressure out of the Line, so, the Slve will start to expand.

 

Chech the Lever at the Contact Point to the Piston in the Master. You should find a Little Slack there. Then undo the Reservoir-Cover and look in the Bottom and fiond the Two Holes, carefully and slowly move the Lever and see if the Holes get closed by the Piston on Movement. Normally, you can see the Seal through both Holes.

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A non-fitting Clutch Lever can keep the Clutch partly open, so would a blocked Relief-Hole in the bottom of the Rservoir.

 

Fluid expands when the Things get hotter, there's not Way to get the created Pressure out of the Line, so, the Slve will start to expand.

 

Chech the Lever at the Contact Point to the Piston in the Master. You should find a Little Slack there. Then undo the Reservoir-Cover and look in the Bottom and fiond the Two Holes, carefully and slowly move the Lever and see if the Holes get closed by the Piston on Movement. Normally, you can see the Seal through both Holes.

 

Does it hook up OK when you first start out and then start slipping in the higher gears when warmed up and runing hard. If the reserve level is OK, then I agree with Squeeze, and strongly think its a plugged expansion hole in the base of the clutch reserve. :sign yeah that:

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Does it hook up OK when you first start out and then start slipping in the higher gears when warmed up and runing hard. If the reserve level is OK, then I agree with Squeeze, and strongly think its a plugged expansion hole in the base of the clutch reserve. :sign yeah that:

 

It hooks up OK when starting out but begins to slip if I really hammer it. Riding like the old man I am, it is fine. When the young hooligan comes out, it slips.

 

RR

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OK, took a little ride this evening and visited Scooter Bob. Felt his clutch handle and it was the same as mine. Not a lot of free - flopping in the wind - play, but a small amount of movement before the clutch spring pressure is felt.

 

I also checked the performance in 5th gear. It will pull for a short while and then slip.

 

Going to go with the Barnett upgrade.

 

RR

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