Rickman Posted March 17, 2012 Share #1 Posted March 17, 2012 Hello, I have 2006 RSTD and am interested in changing out the handlebars. Last fall I took a 3,500 mile trip and when I got back my shoulders/neck were sore for quite awhile, I think from extended holding in that low/wide position. A fellow biker said he prefers having his handlebars chest high, as he feels it makes for better circulation. The stock handlebars on my RSTD are wide (36 inches at the ends) and positioned low in relation to the gas tank. I have looked into installing risers butI am not sure if that will bring them up as much as I want. Also, risers will not change the width. Has anyone repositioned their handlebars using risers or switched out handlebars altogether? I appreciate any feedback/suggestions you have. Thank you very much, Rickman in WA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 17, 2012 Share #2 Posted March 17, 2012 Rick. TONS of folks here have changed them out. After there bike ride today you will have bunches of post about that subject. Also , if you do a search you will find all kinds of facts about it as well. Good luck! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDbiker Posted March 18, 2012 Share #3 Posted March 18, 2012 I have a 2005 RSTD and experienced the same neck/shoulder pain after a long ride. After doing some research I swapped my stock bars with Flanders (I don't remember the part number , but I'm sure someone will chime in with that). The Flanders give you a little more height and additional pull-back, but don't change the width. Night and day difference, no more pain. I didn't have to change out any cables or hoses either. I recommend joining this site. Many great folks and a wealth of information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primebeef Posted March 18, 2012 Share #4 Posted March 18, 2012 Read this post.....I did the change over following these instructions without any problems. And no more back/neck pain....yahoo!!!! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37770 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kregerdoodle Posted March 18, 2012 Share #5 Posted March 18, 2012 I put TD bars on my Venture for the same reasons, helped alot!! I may go with Flanders at some time, but for now these work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Globewalker Posted March 18, 2012 Share #6 Posted March 18, 2012 Read this post.....I did the change over following these instructions without any problems. And no more back/neck pain....yahoo!!!! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37770 Yep that's the link many of us followed .. very good instructions by USNMUSTANG The only thing to note is the Flanders model he listed is not what many of us bought.. the Flanders model I and others got for the RSTD is 650-08783 .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter 1500 Posted March 20, 2012 Share #7 Posted March 20, 2012 There was a thread just the other day about it. I got mine from Buckeye. Here's a link to the thread from last week. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67699 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phertwo Posted March 20, 2012 Share #8 Posted March 20, 2012 Its too the point now that I think you'd be crazy not to switch them out for Flanders! I can't believe I put up with the pain for as long as I did with the stock bars. That and getting a better seat than the stock. Chrome is fun, but comfort is number 1. Bars and Seat should be on the top of anyone's priorities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowboy73 Posted March 21, 2012 Share #9 Posted March 21, 2012 I have a 2004 RSV and just installed Paul Yaffe 10" mini apes. They are wider than the stock bars, but are considerably more comfortable. Conversion required changes on the throttle, brake and clutch lines. The audio controller had lines long enough to support the change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshired Posted March 25, 2012 Share #10 Posted March 25, 2012 I ordered some flanders bars yesterday on Amazon. 124.99/free shipping/no tax Thanks for the links on this thread to help me put them on. What are some of the options on new grips? Anyone have pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyRSTD Posted March 26, 2012 Share #11 Posted March 26, 2012 I ordered some flanders bars yesterday on Amazon. 124.99/free shipping/no tax Thanks for the links on this thread to help me put them on. What are some of the options on new grips? Anyone have pics? You should have ordered from Buckeye Performance and gotten the whole deal. I did and would recommend all to do the same. I waited until I could it all and spent the total of almost $ 600.00 but it is worth it to do it all,correct flanders bars, foam grip covers, ss lines all the way around and end connectors to put the ends back on. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67699 Fuzzy :thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyRSTD Posted March 26, 2012 Share #12 Posted March 26, 2012 Read this post.....I did the change over following these instructions without any problems. And no more back/neck pain....yahoo!!!! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37770 I used these to, good information. I just did mine, been saving money for a year and did the whole upgrade frm buckeye performance , $600.00 and great to deal with and if you check the ss lines price you will not beat their price and the lines that include the plastic tool to turn the banjo connectors to the correct position. you need 2 cans of the correct oem brake fluid, used one and very little from the second. do the job with your bike in an up right position if possible, on a motorcycle jack. helps get the air out of the front lines. cover the entire bike paint with garbage bags before you start and have some help. not a bad job, call if i can help you, i will. 606 - 356 - 7797 i am off work with shoulder surgery recovery, one handed typing......... http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67699 Fuzzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoneman1981 Posted March 26, 2012 Share #13 Posted March 26, 2012 (edited) Welcome to the site: I too noticed the neck pain shortly after purchasing my used 05 RSTD. With the help of this site I was able to recognize the symtoms and the solution. I purchased my bars directly from Flanders and installed them. I was able to reroute the cables to my satisfaction. I liked the stock end weights and devised an inexpensive way to attach the end weights. Best $150.00 I spent. Now after two seasons, I intend on installing new SS lines. Check out the pictures in my albums. I got a lot of help and info from some of the same members that have replied to you. I encourage you to become a member. Best $12 you will ever spend. Membership will save you dollars in the long run. The advice alone is worth it and the friendships are priceless. Edited March 26, 2012 by Phoneman1981 Miss spelling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshired Posted March 26, 2012 Share #14 Posted March 26, 2012 You should have ordered from Buckeye Performance and gotten the whole deal. I did and would recommend all to do the same. I waited until I could it all and spent the total of almost $ 600.00 but it is worth it to do it all,correct flanders bars, foam grip covers, ss lines all the way around and end connectors to put the ends back on. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67699 Fuzzy :thumbsup2: So what does the SS lines do that the stock ones don't? Just asking And do the end connectors make it easier to put the weights back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter 1500 Posted March 26, 2012 Share #15 Posted March 26, 2012 SS lines have less give to them so they will give the brakes more pressure is what I was told. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyRSTD Posted March 27, 2012 Share #16 Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) So what does the SS lines do that the stock ones don't? Just asking And do the end connectors make it easier to put the weights back on? The ss lines will never have to be replaced and are long enough that there is no problems getting everything back together. The ss lines to not give/bulge when brakes are applied as the regular rubber lines do and the regular rubber lines will have to be replaced at some point and time.The throttle lines are also included and all are long enough that there is no rerouting or pinching/binding in the throttle cables. The rubber brake/clutch lines are suggested to be replaced at or around a certain yr/miles of use that I can not remember but did read here somewhere in a thread. Snaggletooth had a post about this somewhere. The end connectors must be used for the weights if you are putting them back, I like them myself. The Flanders bars have no way of connecting them. The stock bars come with the connection made into the inside of them and can not be removed. You can not buy the stuff that is used to do the connection for the 20 dollars Buckeye charges for them if you count the gas getting there and are lucky in finding it all. Although it is something you could come up with if you knew exactly what the parts are. Easier and cheaper for me to just buy them. I did not take a picture of them, but it consisted of a solid rubber piece and a 1/4" bolt at a certain length of around 2" and a washer and a nut with a tooth like back on it to keep it from turning against the rubber and squeezing it up to allow everything to tighten and pull the end weight to the bar end. The bolt had an american size allen head. Then there is also the foam rubber grips that you can get from Buckeye to go over your stock that I like. Use a little water in the inside of them to get them to slip up over your stock. I like the feel of them. If you buy the rest from them, they may throw these 12 dollar items in with your kit. Fuzzy Fuzzy Edited March 27, 2012 by FuzzyRSTD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshired Posted March 27, 2012 Share #17 Posted March 27, 2012 Thanks Fuzzy That sounds like the way to go. I will just need the SS cables and end weight adapers. Your after pics on the other thread did not show the weights on the end. I just changed my plugs but will check the torque when I get it taken apart. So then I will not need to rerout the cable to where they are in front of the forks? Sorry about the surgery. I had Rotator cuff Surgery about 6 years ago. Its no fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyRSTD Posted March 27, 2012 Share #18 Posted March 27, 2012 Thanks Fuzzy That sounds like the way to go. I will just need the SS cables and end weight adapers. Your after pics on the other thread did not show the weights on the end. I just changed my plugs but will check the torque when I get it taken apart. So then I will not need to rerout the cable to where they are in front of the forks? Sorry about the surgery. I had Rotator cuff Surgery about 6 years ago. Its no fun. I did not order the end weight attachment bolts and had to order them later. I am sure that Rick I believe was his name mentioned them to me, but I did not add them to the order. He kindly sent them to me later with out charging me any shipping. That is why you did not see them in the pictures. Thanks for your kind words, yes it is kinda really stressful right now..... FUZZY :thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshired Posted March 27, 2012 Share #19 Posted March 27, 2012 I called and ordered the cables from Buckeye Performance as well as the end weight adapters. He said that Yamaha recommends changing out the brake and upper clutch cables every 5 years because of ballooning. The lower clutch cable is usually not done unless you want to due to lower pressure and not visible. The SS cables are a one time fix and the right length for the flanders bars. The only problem is they are on back order and will take a couple of extra weeks to get. He said they are just selling so many of those kits, its hard to keep up with the demand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyRSTD Posted March 27, 2012 Share #20 Posted March 27, 2012 I called and ordered the cables from Buckeye Performance as well as the end weight adapters. He said that Yamaha recommends changing out the brake and upper clutch cables every 5 years because of ballooning. The lower clutch cable is usually not done unless you want to due to lower pressure and not visible. The SS cables are a one time fix and the right length for the flanders bars. The only problem is they are on back order and will take a couple of extra weeks to get. He said they are just selling so many of those kits, its hard to keep up with the demand. Well, good news in one way, but wished you could have gotten them sooner. I forgot to mention the lower clutch line, sorry, I knew that. Did you get the kit, and did he throw in the extra foam grips ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshired Posted March 27, 2012 Share #21 Posted March 27, 2012 I got the kit that included all of the brake lines and I think all the clutch lines except the lower one. He said it was not necessary But that I could get it for an extra charge. I also got the Throttle cables and the weight adapters. He did not mention anything about foam grips. I does not matter to me, I really like the grips the way they are. Making them bigger to makes them harder to hold on to personally. My wife's Harley which used to be mine before I gave it to her and bought the RSTD has big fat grips on the fatter mini apes. They look nice but my hands start to hurt or just don't feel right around those grips. The grips that come with the RSTD are very comfortable to hold on to. I guess its part of getting older and having a touch of arthritis in the hands. Im also getting new Corbin seats with backrests. This, That and a new battery has just about maxed out my motorcycle budget for now. Cheers Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshired Posted March 27, 2012 Share #22 Posted March 27, 2012 What about the electrical cable that comes off the throttle side? No one has mentiond much about it so Im assuming that it will not need rerouting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzyRSTD Posted March 29, 2012 Share #23 Posted March 29, 2012 What about the electrical cable that comes off the throttle side? No one has mentiond much about it so Im assuming that it will not need rerouting. I did not have to Reshired. Mine had plenty enough room, but I did have all the zip-ties loose and wiring was not rerouted for this. I read somewhere that someone had done the mod and did not even replace the throttle cable, did say it was tight though even after rerouting the throttle cable. But no problems with the wiring anywhere. I also had to wait an extra week or so on my order. The foam covers for grips do enlarge them somewhat. But better for me and my large hands. Fuzzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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