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Cylinder Head Removal


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I have a stuck spark plug.

 

When I say "stuck", I don't mean tight, I mean it will barely move.

 

I am trying all the tricks to ease it out slowly. I might even be able to run the motor later for a few minutes to warm the head up. In the meantime, I am trying to work it back and forth while soaking it in PB Blaster.

 

Questions:

 

1. If the tread comes out with the plug, can the rear cylinder head be removed with the engine in the frame?

 

2. If the engine has to come out, what is the easiest way (I have the Yamaha Manual)?

 

3. Any tips, other than "sell it"?

 

Grrrr!

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What bike are you riding? I would encourage you to join the site as it will be the best $12 you will ever spend, especially if your riding one of the Venture models.

 

I will join before my trial expires.

 

1986 Venture Royale.

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I think the head will come off in frame. It won't be fun though. You'd need a good assortment of extensions to get to all the bolts I expect.

 

If it'll run definitely try that. I think I'd be willing to try and heat the area with a torch if necessary.

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Okay .... some good news.

 

It's out ... and here is the "Spark Plug Tool" that did it:

 

Kids! Don't do this at home:

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0493-1.jpg

 

With plenty of PB Blaster and some judiscious use of a breaker bar, I got lucky!

 

The thread looks fine and I ran a plug in and out a couple of times to free up the thread. The new plug installed okay.

 

So ..... It runs, and after I filled it with coolant and removed the jumper from the fan control, I started it up.

 

It will only start on full choke. It will not accept ANY throttle input until the motor is warm. Once warm you can reduce choke to about half, and it will rev. It sounds smooth when it's not popping and farting. Most of the 30 minutes I ran it it sounded quiet and smooth.

 

Once the temp gauge hit just above halfway, the fan cut in, reduced the temp. and cut out again. Good!

 

So ... any ideas on the carburation issues?

 

I am thinking it is running very lean, hence the required full choke and some of the popping. Or maybe there is a blockage in the pilot circuits?

 

Any ideas of where to start?

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If this is the first time out of winter storage then you probably just have some goo in the carbs. Grab some sea foam and drive it like you stole it. Shaun

 

The bike is new to me, and stripped right down so riding it isn't an option.

 

Can I inject seafoam straight into the vacuum ports?

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Can I inject seafoam straight into the vacuum ports?

 

That won't get it into the carburetors.

 

Put a healthy dose in the tank and run it for 20 minutes or so to get it into the carburetors. You might get lucky. Otherwise you're going to have to pull them and hand clean.

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You can. I am assuming you mean the ports on the intake manifolds.

 

But you want the seafoam to go through the carbs. Its stock in trade is cleaning the junk out of the carbs.

 

It is not a top end oil for the valve train. Not that it won't do a little good up there.

 

Gary

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If you are going to pull them and open them up, at a minimum I would recommend you get a basic rebuild kit for each carb.

 

Consists of 5 orings, float bowl gasket, jet block gasket and fuel level float valve.

 

I think MiCarl is selling them. Check with him.

 

Gary

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Not accepting any throttle when starting is pretty much the deal with these bikes. The common starting procedure is choke and crank it over only. Bikes will vary greatly on how much choke, depending on temps and adjustment of the carbs and condition of the fuel system, but the common factor seems to be NO THROTTLE until it warms up a bit. Once you try to add the twist to the wrist.....it's a fidgit fit getting it started.

 

At half choke the bike should cold idle around 2,000 rpm.

 

So it sounds like you are in pretty good shape actually. It starts, runs and revs. Good starting point.

 

Sea Foam is the real deal when it comes to cleaning carbs and the fuel system. About the only product that really does what it claims along that line. Be sure to change out you fuel filter as long as you have the bike opened up. Better now than digging back into it later.

 

:080402gudl_prv:

 

Mike

 

So, some cleaning, some Sea Foam and a few adjustments along with a quick sync job you should be in great shape.

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You say it is torn apart. These bike engines will not run smooth without the air cleaner installed either. If you have the top removed take out the air filter and watch down the carbs as you increase the throttle. All of them should move somewhat evenly. If not you need to investigate the offending carb. Seafoam won't hurt either.:D

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"Torn apart" means that all the plastic is off except the right hand fairing.

 

All the bits needed to make it run in the shop or yard are intact for now.

 

I have a mess of wiring to sort out. When that is done, and I have it running smoothly, I will start refurbing the plastic and re-building.

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I will join before my trial expires.

 

1986 Venture Royale.

Thank you for joining. May I also suggest that you alter your "Bike Year and Model" via your User CP (left hand margin) and then "Edit your details" (left hand margin). If you put your "1986 Venture Royale" there, then people will now know at a glance what you ride. Some may praise you while others may tease you in fun and fellowship. But then, we'll all know how best to help you at any given time.

 

Now, back to the topic at hand, where I am no help at all. Good luck! :thumbsup:

 

Dave

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