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Repack Steering Head Bearings:


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I have tried to read every thread related to this. Several members have said that it is possible to repack these bearings without removing the fairing. Any description or tips on how to do this would be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks

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Hey Evan,

There is no need to remove the fairing if you are CAREFUL. The trick here is to Elevate the ENTIRE bike in the air high enough to remove the triple tree nuts and pull the entire front fork assembly out from under the bike. I have had pretty good luck with the Craftsman Pro ATV/Motorcycle jack getting the bike up high enough. I also attach straps to the rafters to keep the bike from tipping over. An extra pair of hands, (or two) are a big help here. Option "B" is to leave the rear wheel on the ground and hike up the front end until the forks will clear. Sorry I don't have any pics, I was too busy grabbin' my A$$ while all of this was going on to take pics! Either way, this is not a fun job, best done with a few friends. The bottom line here is you are hoisting a 800 pound motorcycle in the air, one way or the other, and this could go very wrong, very quickly! Be VERY CAREFUL!:confused24:

Earl

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Just changed the bearings on my 83. I have a comalong from the rafter of my garage. put the bike on center stand jack the front of the bike up. tighten the comalong on the back of the bike to make it steady. Like they said take the bolts loose it should drop down enough too grease the bearings. I did take the tank cover off and the radio and class off.Just to be safe. Get a spanner and it will make it alot easier.

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I'm "old school" and still define "packing" bearings by forcing grease inside the bearings via the old glob of grease on your palm and push the bearing with your other hand until grease oozes out of the top. Just smearing grease around the outside is IMHO not packing the bearings. That being said, some grease in there is better than no grease. Removing the bearings is a pain to say the least! On the '84 we ended up cutting the race to get the old one out when we replaced them. Upper bearings come out pretty easy but lowers are press fitted onto the triple tree. If I am just repacking and not replacing, I like to thoroughly clean the bearings with gas, kero, or any suitable solvent and blowing them out with air and let them dry for a while before repacking...

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Repacking bearing is important, but just smearing grease on them doesn't do much good. Your bearings have been in for quite some time and may have a wear spot on them,,, and that will not be fixed with grease. It will take a little more time and a bit more effort, but if you are going that route, you should do the whole thing. Pull out the forks and rebuild with progressive springs, seals, sliders and such. Replace the bearings in the steering head, get aftermarket from a bearing dealer, a whole lot cheaper. It won't take forever to do it all at once, and you'll be glad you won't have to do that ever again.

And remember, there's lots of room here and all the tools.

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Guest Swifty
I'm "old school" and still define "packing" bearings by forcing grease inside the bearings via the old glob of grease on your palm and push the bearing with your other hand until grease oozes out of the top. Just smearing grease around the outside is IMHO not packing the bearings.

:sign yeah that:

Repacking bearing is important, but just smearing grease on them doesn't do much good. It will take a little more time and a bit more effort, but if you are going that route, you should do the whole thing. Pull out the forks and rebuild with progressive springs, seals, sliders and such. Replace the bearings in the steering head, get aftermarket from a bearing dealer, a whole lot cheaper. It won't take forever to do it all at once, and you'll be glad you won't have to do that ever again.

:sign yeah that:

Evan, I put in new steering bearings AND races last year after I got sick of chasing that tighting nut back and forth forever trying to find that good (no-hands) feeling that I started with on the Browner. I did the progressive spring upgrade several years before that and so I was familiar with removing the forks. Removing the forks is another method of getting access to the whole tree without having to put the bike up in the air while still keeping the fairing on. Just take off the front wheel, fork brace and let the calipers hang, loosen the fork tube bolts, pull the circlips and the forks will slide down and out. All I did was keep it on the center stand and support the bike with a bunch of short 2X4s under the engine behind the oil filter. My biggest problem was removing the lower bearing race and I eventually gave up and sent it out to get done...which involved putting the forks back on and off a couple of times by myself to get the bike to where it would roll onto a trailer...so it can be done easily. I forget what your mechanical ability is, but if it's anywhere like mine (which is largely weekend entertainment for goofy lookin jerks who come over with coffee to laugh at me and my garage) then with some determination and time you should be able to do it yourself...especially if it's just trying to repack the bearings. As far as just repacking your bearings...is this to try and solve a feel problem? How do you know that bearings and races aren't due to be replaced? Regardless, it's a good start. Good luck to you. Give me a call if YOU TOO need a goofy lookin jerk to come over and laugh at you...it's a great motivator.

:big-grin-emoticon:

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Unlike wheel bearings, these bearings are hammered while riding. It's the oil and additives in the grease along with proper setting up that protects the bearings.And within 10 miles it's wiped away during a ride. Without oil in grease...you have wax. The hardness of the bearing and much petroleum is the key to long life of these. So the reservoir created by pumping up the steering neck AFTER packing is good to do. FYI, loose bearings cause them to hammer more. Thus wear out faster. Finally after 20+ years & 70k of wheeling and lots of hard riding my bearings needed replacement. They displayed only a slight detent on the "center stand check". Upon disassembly the marks are viewable(dark spots or lines) but impossible to feel. If you have stiffer than stock "progressive springs"...you are hammering the bearings more. I have Progessives.

Edited by jasonm.
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Many thanks for all the posts that were appreciated and helpful. I had the chance to spend some time with Scott (Mother) yesterday at his place. Because my steering was "sticking", that was top priority. I didn't have replacement bearings so all we could do was inspect and lubricate. We were able to do that by only removing the steering crown. No surprise - the bearings were dry and due for replacement. Scott greased the lower bearing while I removed, cleaned and repacked the upper (a la Bob and Carl's comments for repacking). My steering now feels "like new" and this should help until I replace the bearings sometime later this year. I think Yamaha's no-way-to-lubricate design sucks, and a greae fitting sounds like a good fix.

 

We were on a roll so we kept going and checked the valve clearance (replaced two shims), replaced the two front brake callipers with an R1 and rebuilt calliper, checked the diaphrams (found some pin holes - so another job) and synced the carbs (for now) with my new Morgan tuner that works like a charm. Couldn't have done all this without Scott's help.

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Guest Swifty
Many thanks for all the posts that were appreciated and helpful. I had the chance to spend some time with Scott (Mother) yesterday at his place. Because my steering was "sticking", that was top priority. I didn't have replacement bearings so all we could do was inspect and lubricate. We were able to do that by only removing the steering crown. No surprise - the bearings were dry and due for replacement. Scott greased the lower bearing while I removed, cleaned and repacked the upper (a la Bob and Carl's comments for repacking). My steering now feels "like new" and this should help until I replace the bearings sometime later this year. I think Yamaha's no-way-to-lubricate design sucks, and a greae fitting sounds like a good fix.

 

We were on a roll so we kept going and checked the valve clearance (replaced two shims), replaced the two front brake callipers with an R1 and rebuilt calliper, checked the diaphrams (found some pin holes - so another job) and synced the carbs (for now) with my new Morgan tuner that works like a charm. Couldn't have done all this without Scott's help.

wow, you got some work done!! See, getting goofy looking guys to help really does motivate a person. Now you'll have to learn how to drive that thang!

:thumbsup2:

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wow, you got some work done!! See, getting goofy looking guys to help really does motivate a person. Now you'll have to learn how to drive that thang!

:thumbsup2:

Things must be slow at school, Swifty is posting again.

Ya you guys did get a lot done,,, wow!!!!!

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wow, you got some work done!! See, getting goofy looking guys to help really does motivate a person. Now you'll have to learn how to drive that thang!

 

OK Dave - I hope I get the chance to follow you again this summer. Maybe that will help!

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