Changing rear tire 0n 2004 venture

[Shot]

Just ordered another Dunlop whitewall for the rear and I'm going to be brave enough to change it out myself (with the help of you guys). I have looked in the Tech talk but maybe there is something somewhere that gives me more info. I notice you also say to grease the splines, etc so I'm adding that to the list.

 

Looking for feedback..........thanks fellows.

[Ponch]

Here's a good article about it.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515

[eusa1]

looks like ya got all the clues ya need for now.

 

was nice to talk with you joe, talk again soon.

mike.

[massey130]

This is how i did the rear tire change on my 04 Venture.

you don't have to pull the drive shaft to remove the tire.

need to use Honda moly 60 on the axle and hub/splines after tire removal

You need to have the lift adapt for your MC jack for the Venture and some tools.

have the bike ready for lifting.

 

before the bike is off the ground, remove the bags and the right hand

exhaust. the left exhaust can be left on, but the job is easier with it off.

the exhaust has one rear hanger bolt to remove and one pipe clamp to loosen, then it will slide off.

 

remove the Brake caliper from the caliper bracket. you may need to press the

pads in to remove it.

remove the caliper bracket bolt.

remove or loosen the frame pinch bolt.

remove axle nut on the left side.

 

remove the axle - this is easier said than done. you have the weight of the

bike on the axle. start to raise the bike just a bit at a time.

At some point,there is equilibrium and the axle will come out easier than

having to beat it out from the left. Lube the axle just before you re-install it.

 

remove the caliper bracket. there is a spacer/washer that comes out. It may fall out on its own when you remove the axle. make note of where the washer comes off so you can put it back in the same spot. look in the manual if you mess this part up on re-assembly.

 

Wiggle the wheel off the splines and raise the bike enough to pull it out

from the right. the wheel should not just fall off the hub. wait until the tire and rim are ready to go back on the bike before putting lube on rim side splines.

 

This took awhile the first time as i was unfamiliar with this but I think I could remove and re-install the rear wheel in a half hour or so the next time.

 

Make sure you well clean and then grease splines and the drive pins while the

tire is off.

 

I had the Yammy shop put the new tire on. Reverse the above steps to put the

tire back on the bike. make sure the spacer washer is in the correct spot or

you get to do double the work. it goes between the frame and caliper bracket.

once it is all back together, pump the rear brake pedal to re pressurize the

caliper if you pushed the pads in.

 

I will tell you the first time I took mine off, I literally had to pound the

axle out, it was dry with NO lube on it. Since it was my first time, it took

about an hour's time. I made two errors on re-assembly and that used up about 30 extra minutes to re do and is not in the hour's work time. next time i should be able to do it in 30 minutes or so.

I like to take my time and have everything i need, so i am not in a hurry.

[Shot]

See what I mean............I have all the info I need to do the job and made a friend out of it as well. Thanks everyone. This site is great.

[Bummer]

One thing that seems missing (unless I missed it) is information about the "grease the splines" instruction.

 

In the center of the wheel, on the side that goes into the final drive assembly, there is a circlip. Remove it and remove the part that comes out. On the inside there are five pins that go into bushings in the wheel. Those pins need to be cleaned and greased every time the tire is changed. It's really pretty easy, except for getting the circlip off then back on - those always seem to be a pain. I got a couple of spare circlips from Yamaha. I'm forever stretching the things when I remove them. A good set of circlip pliers are well worth the expense. FWIW I'm still looking for a truly good set. I've had several and I've wound up disliking them all.

 

This is, of course, in addition to greasing the actual splines that mate when you put the wheel into the final drive.

[Freebird]

There is a good write-up in the tech library, complete with pictures, on removing the rear wheel.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515

 

There is also a good write-up on greasing the hub and it really should be done with every rear tire change.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263

[Bummer]

I knew I'd seen it somewhere. I guess I was just looking for the wrong name.

[Ponch]

.... It's really pretty easy, except for getting the circlip off then back on - those always seem to be a pain. I got a couple of spare circlips from Yamaha. I'm forever stretching the things when I remove them. A good set of circlip pliers are well worth the expense. FWIW I'm still looking for a truly good set. I've had several and I've wound up disliking them all....

 

I have a good set of pliers but usually end up pulling the clip with a small screwdriver.

[Bummer]

I bought a fairly expensive set. It had different tips. They rotate exactly when they're not supposed to. I tossed it. I bought another that you have to unpin half of the handle and move where it hooks on to go from inside to outside. Major pain. I still use it, but only with a couple of screwdrivers and a punch. Still looking for an actually good pair.

[N3FOL]

I stretched the circlip too much making it no longer re-usable. Luckily, our machine shop at work happened to have the same exact size and was able to get a couple more as spare. Once these circlips had been deformed, they are almost always deemed useful.

[StarFan]

I did my splines last winter when I took the whole rear off my bike to put in a new rear fender. Decided to go all the way and remove the driveshaft as well and grease everything thoroughly. Was a good thing to do since everything was pretty much dried up. I used the VR tech articel as well as Yamaha´s workshop manual to lean on but this turned out to be pretty much common sense work. There was one thing though pointed out in the Yamaha workshop manual that came to my attention and that is to make sure that the splines go into the same holes as before removal when being reinstalled. Is actually logical if one thinks about it since the splines could make their own individual space/form in their individual holes through time.

Just wanted to share this since I think this is a logical thing to do.