Temperature Switch

[Freebird]

I just happened to see this on Ebay. I wonder if it would work on the First Gen Ventures. If so, it looks like a good solution to those who have a problem with the temps running near the read before the fans come on. This one turns on the fans 20 degrees sooner.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-V-max-Cooling-Fan-Switch-Vmax_W0QQitemZ190130673497QQihZ009QQcategoryZ35580QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[daveg90]

Don,

 

This should work well as you stated on the 1st gens. A little pricey though in my opinion.

 

I have changed my stock temp switch with a NAPA part #FS-147 thermal switch that comes on @ 194 degrees.

 

It is my opinion that the first gen and VMax radiators were slightly undersized for the southern climates.

 

The Venture motor runs best at 180 degrees, but with the undersized radiator it is hard to keep under 200 degrees.

 

I also use a product called Water Wetter that is mixed with the radiator fluid & helps dissipate heat more effectively.

 

My temp never reaches the red zone, but I have never driven in Arizona, or Texas climates.

 

Just my 2 cents...

 

Daveg90 aka SuperSport

[calperin]

Great, but I finished to pay 86$ for an original one. I would like to knew about this three weeks ago.

 

Good idea any way, I put in paralell a switch to ground to avoid future problems.

[Denden]

Don,

 

I have changed my stock temp switch with a NAPA part #FS-147 thermal switch that comes on @ 194 degrees.

 

 

Daveg90 aka SuperSport

Hey Dave...was the Napa part #FS-147 an exact replcement, or did you have to modify something to make it fit?

[Denden]

 

Good idea any way, I put in paralell a switch to ground to avoid future problems.

Carlos...I just installed a over-ride fan switch in my '83. I wired the switch to be in parallel with the fan relay contacts. So if for some reason the relay fails, my switch will still turn on the fan.

[Gearhead]

"My temp never reaches the red zone, but I have never driven in Arizona, or Texas climates."

 

 

 

 

What temp does the stock fan switch come on at? Since the gage has no numbers, I have no numerical reference. I just runs at half-way! Do you know about what temp that is? What is the temp of the t-stat?

 

I recently did a tour with my wife on which I posted a write-up, and it ended with a run from San Diego to Tucson. Our ride through the El Centro and Yuma area was accompanied by temps of 105 to 107. With it being so hot, my tendency was to push the speed to get it over with. Much of the time I ran with the cruise on the max, 80. Sometimes I ran it harder. I did notice the temps creep up into fan-territory - 3/4 or so - and pretty much stay there. Never really approached the red.

 

Jeremy

[SilvrT]

Arizona, or Texas climates.

 

The temps there are what? 105 - 110 ? that converts to 40 - 43 Celcius. We've had those kind of temps in parts of this province and I've ridden my '85 in them. Where the overheating concern (at least for me) was when riding in close to 40 degree weather in stop & go traffic. While my '85 ran close to or at the red line on the temp gauge, it never actually overheated to the point where it boiled over or blew a hose, etc. I was always a bit concerned then, tho, that the fan did not provide sufficient air flow to keep the temp at an acceptable level. Riding down the highway at those temps provided constant air flow through the rad and overheating then was never a concern once I got used to the fact that the temp gauge generally ran at a higher point most of the time.

[daveg90]

Hey Dave...was the Napa part #FS-147 an exact replcement, or did you have to modify something to make it fit?

 

Denden,

 

Now you are testing my memory a bit as I did this about 6 years ago...

 

I believe that I had to cut off the stock 'T' shaped spade connector and replace with two seperate female spade connectors to plug the wires to the switch, but it fits in the same physical space.

 

I will take a look at it on Friday when I get home from a business trip and give you an update.

 

 

Gearhead,

 

Rey Kirkman once told me that the stock VMax temp switch comes on at 220 degrees. I assume that the first gen switch is the same.

 

I assume that he got this info from the VMOA group, but do not know if it is accurate.

 

I did notice that my temp gauge seems to stay below 1/2 way after changing the switch and adding the Water Wetter fluid. Prior to that it would often hit 3/4 scale while sitting in traffic with the bike running on I-80 waiting to exit after they shut the freeway down for a major accident.

This is what happened to me last week coming home from Fort Collins...

 

I have a temp probe adapter that I have for my digital multimeter that I just might be able to confirm actual temps with.

 

 

daveg90 aka SuperSport

[calperin]

Carlos...I just installed a over-ride fan switch in my '83. I wired the switch to be in parallel with the fan relay contacts. So if for some reason the relay fails, my switch will still turn on the fan.

 

That is exactly what I did. I had an added cable since we went to don's on June, so all that I add was a switch (apart from the new thermal switch), if temps goes up, I only need to press the switch and the fan will work immediatly.

 

Nothing like automation, when automation needs human intervention....

 

:225:

[Guest venture777]

"My temp never reaches the red zone, but I have never driven in Arizona, or Texas climates."I would recommended using water wet (red line product) you should be able to get it in auto-zone or google red line:080402gudl_prv:

 

 

 

 

What temp does the stock fan switch come on at? Since the gage has no numbers, I have no numerical reference. I just runs at half-way! Do you know about what temp that is? What is the temp of the t-stat?

 

I recently did a tour with my wife on which I posted a write-up, and it ended with a run from San Diego to Tucson. Our ride through the El Centro and Yuma area was accompanied by temps of 105 to 107. With it being so hot, my tendency was to push the speed to get it over with. Much of the time I ran with the cruise on the max, 80. Sometimes I ran it harder. I did notice the temps creep up into fan-territory - 3/4 or so - and pretty much stay there. Never really approached the red.

 

Jeremy

I would reccomend using water-wet and google redline products your bike will run 20-30 degrees cooler:080402gudl_prv:

[bongobobny]

Well, I just bought one, and hope it fits!! I guess I'll find out soon enough...

[Rich99]

I just happened to see this on Ebay. I wonder if it would work on the First Gen Ventures. If so, it looks like a good solution to those who have a problem with the temps running near the read before the fans come on. This one turns on the fans 20 degrees sooner.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-V-max-Cooling-Fan-Switch-Vmax_W0QQitemZ190130673497QQihZ009QQcategoryZ35580QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This might be what Condor needs as he was having this problem up in Ft. Collins with his 83 Venture Royal.

[Gearhead]

"...the stock VMax temp switch comes on at 220 degrees. I assume that the first gen switch is the same.

...

I did notice that my temp gauge seems to stay below 1/2 way after changing the switch and adding the Water Wetter fluid. Prior to that it would often hit 3/4 scale while sitting in traffic "

 

 

 

So if we make a few assumptions, it sounds like 3/4 or so on the gage, which is where the fan comes on stock, is about 220 F. Half on the gage, which is where your fan comes on now, is 194F per the setpoint of your new switch. This applies to 1300's perhaps, since it is known that at least some 1200's have different calibration on their gages.

 

What is the t-stat temp?

 

Dave, what about your bike makes it a Super Sport?

 

Jeremy

[daveg90]

Jeremy,

 

I don't know how much stock faith I would put into the accuracy of the analog temp dash gauges that indicate radiator fluid temperature.

 

I know that my bike runs cooler now with the fan coming on sooner based on the delta comparison of operating ranges as indicated on my temp gauge before and after I changed the Thermostat switch

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but since you asked what makes it a SuperSport:

 

 

 

---

 

The following article is my documentation of the conversion from a stock ’90 Yamaha Venture Royale to what I will refer to as a Venture SuperSport (SS) using stock Vmax components and a bit of tuning. I hope that this document encourages others with similar interests to consider modifications of their own.

 

I have modified my '90 Venture into a SS w/ true servo motor controlled VBoost, modified VMax airbox & intakes, Mark's exhaust collector, VMax 4 brush starter, Solid motor mounts, R1 front calipers, Stainless Steel brake & clutch, Progressive fork springs, Superbrace fork brace, etc...

 

Runs very strong although tuning was a bit of a challenge, but part of the fun & I hope to have it Dyno'd some day.

 

I owe much of my thanks and appreciation for the information learned through contacts w/ Rey Kirkman, Bill Miller, Curt Dennin, Steve Detamore, & Rick Butler.

 

 

 

---

 

I am not using the VBoost controller box, as I did not have one at the time I modified my bike.

 

I am controlling my Vboost servomotor with a three-position toggle switch spring center in the off position.

The Vboost servomotor fits in the space under the LH tuner radio section. I cut holes thru the divider panel to run the cable and wiring as seen in the following picture.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0008.jpg

 

I don't know exactly how the factory Vboost control box handles the servo as I have never had one...

 

My guess is it has an op amp window comparator circuit that opens vboost based on the computer rpm tach feedback.

 

The "servo" Vboost motor is a simple dc motor with an integral geared linear potentiometer for feedback.

 

Voltage is applied to the motor until the potentiometer reaches a setpoint that interrupts the circuit in both the opened & closed conditions.

 

The problem is that the servomotor cannot handle being left on in a stalled condition in either position.

The toggle switch is mounted on the left hand side of dash panel between the radio and the tank cover.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0001.jpg

 

I learned this the hard way by burning up the armature coil wires of the motor. They are made of the lightest gauge micro wire and apparently cannot handle the full current draw of a motor stall condition for very long.

 

Keep in mind that it is also close to impossible to accurately synch these V4 carb banks with the Vboost open.

 

 

VBoost definitely causes a surge in power when the butterfly's open up that I personally didn't want to come on automatically at a given rpm, especially in the cruising range.

 

My simplistic circuit is as follows, but I have been working on a possible circuit described above w/out the Vboost control unit.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=clip_image001.jpg

 

My cold air comes up under the fake tank cover from the front of the bike. With my battery layed down on its side it creates a clear pocket for air to filter straight into the Vmax air box.

 

It is most likely not as cold as the air above the tank cover. Rey Kirkman has 1" holes in both sides of the tank cover to draw the coldest air.

 

 

 

---

 

I avoided a problem with the water hose that gets bent coming out of the crankcase breather cover hitting the Vboost crossovers tubes by replacing the stock cover with a Vmax crankcase cover. I then buff polished the black painted aluminum cover to make it look better by matching other engine components.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0013.jpg

 

 

 

---

 

The biggest decision you must make is to either use the VMax airbox where you will need to relocate the battery, or go with a modified Venture airbox with the stock battery setup.

 

The stock VMax box delivers much more volume of air to the carbs, and I was after peak HP performance so this is the path that I took.

 

I removed the center “Y” section of the Vmax airbox to allow more airflow.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0004.jpg

 

 

 

 

I am using the VMax airbox & spent a considerable amount of time creating a custom battery box using an Odyssey gel cell battery layed on it side mounted in the underutilized space above the front two cylinders.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0005.jpg

 

I sometimes get more help than I really need from my baby daughter Katrina, but I love the attention from my little mechanic.

 

 

 

---

 

The spark plug donut coils were taken off their mounting brackets along with the TCI box, and vacuum advance control unit. The vacuum advance unit is now mounted to the front cylinders upper plastic deflector plate as shown in the following picture. The TCI box is sitting on top of the battery in a custom made holder.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0014.jpg

 

 

 

---

 

I was trying to achieve similar results to what is described as the Ford COP [coil on plug] ignition system.

 

I broke up my spark plug coils and mounted them above and almost on top of each cylinder on the plastic deflector plates that go over the cylinder head covers. The spark plug wire leads are somewhere between 4 to 6 inches long now.

 

I have maximized the efficiency of the spark plug coils by relocating each of them w/ in 6 inches of the spark plugs.

I now have a very strong spark, and the added benefit of reduced radio noise interference.

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/daveg90/?action=view&current=Cnv0009.jpg

 

 

 

---

 

I started with a Vmax Dynojet Stage 1 kit & ordered a few additional jets like the DJ146’s that I am currently using for my main jets. The stock mains are Mikuni 125’s.

 

I have changed the pilot jets from the stock Mikuni 37.5’s to Mikuni 42.5’s.

 

There is a big difference between Mikuni & Dynojet jet sizes just for your information. I did find a comparison chart if you are interested. Mikuni jets are better I am told.

 

I am not using the Dynojet springs anymore as I found them to be too weak, but I am using the stock Venture springs that I replaced new so they would be good and strong.

 

I did not drill the lift hole on the slide as indicated in the kit.

 

 

 

---

 

My current setup is as follows:

VBoost w/ a modified Vmax airbox.

Marks open exhaust collector.

DJ146's main jets (Mikuni 135’s could be used as substitutes).

PAJ#2's at MK170 (stock as far as I can tell - Service manual must be wrong listing MK180).

Pilot jets changed to MK42.5's

I have the e-clip on the top notch of the Dynojet needle w/ no washers, and my fuel/ air mixture screws out just under 2.5 turns from seated.

The last mod was I changed out my Pilot Air Jet number 1 from a MK#80 to a MK#90 and it seems to have made a big difference at the low end throttle response (off idle up to 2000rpm's).

 

The bike is running stronger than ever so I now plan on having it checked with an exhaust gas analyzer before doing any more tuning.

I know that I should not put much stock in seat of the pants feedback, but I can't seem to feel any flat spots thru the entire torque spectrum.

 

It just pulls extremely hard & fly’s thru the rpm’s all the way to redline.

 

I am able to leave Vboost open at all times, but I shut it down when I get in heavy congested traffic & when I start the bike cold.

 

 

---

 

The following is a cost summary that I have kept up on upgrades:

 

1990 Venture Royale bought used in 1999 w/14K miles & almost every Ventureline accessory ever made ($5000)

VBoost butterfly valves, motor w/ a modified Vmax airbox. ($150)

Marks open exhaust collector. ($240)

Mac Aftermarket exhaust ($225)

VMax 4 Brush Starter ($150)

Battery & Starter Cable upgrade to #4AWG ($15)

Odyssey Dry cell Battery ($85)

Coil-On-Plug Ignition upgrade - broke up coils and mounted directly above each cylinder (Free)

Progressive Rate Front Springs w/15wt oil ($75)

Progressive Rate Rear Springs ($100)

Solid Engine Mounts ($75)

Superbrace Fork brace ($120)

Travelcade Seat ($450)

Stainless Steel Brake & Clutch Cables ($275)

R1 Front Brake Calipers Set ($100)

Spin On Oil Filter ($65)

Replaced steering head bearings and races ($25)

Kuryakyn Handlebar Iso Grips ($55)

Rivco Air Horn ($150)

Ipod w/ rf transmitter ($350)

Dynojet Stage 1 Kit ($100)

DJ146's main jets (Included in Dynojet Kit) or Mikuni MK135’s

Pilot jets changed to MK42.5's ($12)

I have the e-clip on the top notch of the Dynojet needle w/ no washers, and my fuel/ air mixture screws out just under 2.5 turns from seated. (Included in DJ Kit)

Changed out Pilot Air Jet number 1 from a MK#80 to a MK#90 (Included in DJ Kit)

 

Total Venture SuperSport cost $7817

 

No regrets about making these modifications at all.

 

 

 

---

 

I chose at this time not to use the Vmax heads & cams, as I am not yet convinced that this setup provides significantly more HP.

It does however move the torque spectrum up by approximately 2K rpm's & I was not ready to spin the motor that much faster at this date though it does seem to be able to handle it as experienced by others.

 

Regards,

 

Dave Getsfried

daveg90 aka SuperSport

[CrazyHorse]

Wow what kind of mpg do you get?

[daveg90]

Jimbob5,

 

I didn't really do it for the mpg's, but while I was in and around the mountains near Fort Collins I was still getting 42mpg's so I guess it didn't hurt my milage too bad!

[Guest Vermincelli]

Well, I just bought one, and hope it fits!! I guess I'll find out soon enough...

 

 

Did it fit? Looking at one of those myself.

[CrazyHorse]

Did it fit? Looking at one of those myself.

 

 

I just put this switch in and the fan does come on much faster then it did before. I havent got a good ride with it yet for temp comparisons. Just idling and synchronizing now. You do have to cut off the connector and put spades on the ends but it works fine screws right in.

[GigaWhiskey]

Running my '85 when the temp is @ 100+ will take the temp gauge to redline after about three hours of riding (might even have to stop to let it cool).

 

My calfs start to burn from the heat pouring out from it. A very uncomfortable ride.

 

Done the hoses (yamaha thinks these are made of $gold$), new fan, new t-stat but not the switch.

 

Keep the thread going, and I did thing for it to show in my email.

[bongobobny]

I just put this switch in and the fan does come on much faster then it did before. I havent got a good ride with it yet for temp comparisons. Just idling and synchronizing now. You do have to cut off the connector and put spades on the ends but it works fine screws right in.

 

Vermincelli;

 

Oh, good, Jimbo answered the question for you! I haven't installed yet and am not planning on doing so until next spring when I completely flush the cooling system and replace the water pump. I really haven't had any cooling system issues yet, but decided to "overhaul" the system next spring to keep things that way. Sooo, couldn't give you a comparison either!

 

The swap is well documented by the dealer and well presented. I have no regrets at all buying...

[Condor]

This"]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-V-max-Cooling-Fan-Switch-Vmax_W0QQitemZ190130673497QQihZ009QQcategoryZ35580QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This[/url] might be what Condor needs as he was having this problem up in Ft. Collins with his 83 Venture Royal.

 

 

I'm not sure what the temp is that I'm running at. But i will say that the motor runs according to air temperature. If it's 105 degs out, it runs just under red zone and below the fan kicking on. If it's 65-75 degs out it runs about the middle of the green. Coming back from Ft Collins I stayed a needle width under the red all the way acrossed Nevada at 70-80mph, but it dropped down to just above half way when I got up into the cooler temps of the Sierras and even pulling those grades. So i donno. I guess as long as it doesn't blow up I'll stick with what I've got.... :-) I might add that I added water wetter to the reserve in Colorado. Whether it got into the radiator or not I don't know???:confused24:

[Guest Vermincelli]

Ran it up to Reno and back tonight just to push the temp up and see. Fan kicks on 3/4 of the way up on the gauge. Thinking now that I will just go with a bottle of Water Wetter and see how that goes.

Beginning to wonder with what others report of the fan not coming on til just at the red if the previous owner didn't already toss on a Vmax sensor. Will have to tear into it and take a look.

[Condor]

Ran it up to Reno and back tonight just to push the temp up and see. Fan kicks on 3/4 of the way up on the gauge. Thinking now that I will just go with a bottle of Water Wetter and see how that goes.

Beginning to wonder with what others report of the fan not coming on til just at the red if the previous owner didn't already toss on a Vmax sensor. Will have to tear into it and take a look.

 

Todd. Another way to check the actual temp of the engine is to go pick up one of those remote IR temp meters. The ones where you put the red laser dot on the object you want to measure and it gives you an LCD temp reading. I picked up one at Harbor Frieght for about 15 bucks. Does a nice job. It's also a great way to find a dead cylinder. Just point it at the exhaust tubes when you first fire the engine. The one or ones that are not firing are cool. You gotta get that scoot ready for the ride next month...

[Gearhead]

"Running my '85 when the temp is @ 100+ will take the temp gauge to redline after about three hours of riding (might even have to stop to let it cool).

 

My calfs start to burn from the heat pouring out from it. A very uncomfortable ride."

 

 

 

Giga,

 

Assuming your fan comes on at the usual 3/4 point, your bike under these conditions continues to get hotter even with the fan running. Therefore, putting on a lower temp switch might slow the warming process, but won't solve it such that you can run continuously out of the red.

 

When my wife and I ran across the desert at 107 F, my 87 ran just under the red as Condor described - a needle's width or two. I wonder if your gage is just more sensitive?

 

I know what you mean about the heat pouring out, though. The Baker Air Wings helped a lot, but not way down at the calf level. The passenger's calves are even more in the heat path. At one point my wife's calves were splotchy red because I put my feet on the hiway pegs which blocked her fresh (if you can call 107 fresh) airflow to blow away some of that heat.

 

Your '85 has the triangular open areas in the side panels with no way to close it off, right? My 87 has the vents installed there, and they make a BIG difference, open vs. closed. In the summer, I put a piece of auto hood insulation inside the vents to completely stop airflow. Maybe you could make some plates that fit in there for hot weather. Or, do your panels have the mounting points for the vents? They are available from Yammy - for about 80 bucks each : (

 

Jeremy

[Condor]

"Running my '85 when the temp is @ 100+ will take the temp gauge to redline after about three hours of riding (might even have to stop to let it cool).

 

My calfs start to burn from the heat pouring out from it. A very uncomfortable ride."

 

 

 

Giga,

 

Assuming your fan comes on at the usual 3/4 point, your bike under these conditions continues to get hotter even with the fan running. Therefore, putting on a lower temp switch might slow the warming process, but won't solve it such that you can run continuously out of the red.

 

When my wife and I ran across the desert at 107 F, my 87 ran just under the red as Condor described - a needle's width or two. I wonder if your gage is just more sensitive?

 

I know what you mean about the heat pouring out, though. The Baker Air Wings helped a lot, but not way down at the calf level. The passenger's calves are even more in the heat path. At one point my wife's calves were splotchy red because I put my feet on the hiway pegs which blocked her fresh (if you can call 107 fresh) airflow to blow away some of that heat.

 

Your '85 has the triangular open areas in the side panels with no way to close it off, right? My 87 has the vents installed there, and they make a BIG difference, open vs. closed. In the summer, I put a piece of auto hood insulation inside the vents to completely stop airflow. Maybe you could make some plates that fit in there for hot weather. Or, do your panels have the mounting points for the vents? They are available from Yammy - for about 80 bucks each : (

 

Jeremy

 

Ditto on the heat pouring out the side covers. On the '83 there isn't any provision for a vent in the triangular opening, and I used the highway pegs a lot.... Since Ft Collins I found a nice set of side covers on Ebay from an '87 with the vents, and have since replaced the stock covers. The colors match the original '83 paint scheme, although I think?? that the covers are off a VXZ12 and not the '87 Royale. Big difference in the hot air flow and toasted ankles.

 

This also brings to mind a poem I ran acrossed a few months ago.

 

 

"Summer"

a poem by Abigail Elizabeth McIntyre

chit!

It's Hot !