barend Posted January 10, 2009 Share #1 Posted January 10, 2009 I'm replacing battery cables as per Squidly's specs on my '83. So far I've got the right side apart and most of the left. Hopefully i'll remember how to put it back together While I have all the trim off, anything I should look at, clean, replace or other. As Rooster said, it's a PITA and I don't care to do it too often. Second, the secondary wires coming of the battery terminals are pretty short, I am debating extending them, perhaps by putting a pull apart connector in it as opposed to straight wiring. Thoughts? Last, I have enough supplies to make another set. If you're intersted let me know. I accept credit cards. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarges46 Posted January 10, 2009 Share #2 Posted January 10, 2009 Valve covers leaking? If so maybe with all the stuff off it might be easier to change the gaskets now. While at maybe check the valve shims to see if all is still in spec. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 10, 2009 Share #3 Posted January 10, 2009 Ummm, maybe replace the solenoid with an aftermarket one? I think it is a Ford type that people have been using... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted January 10, 2009 Share #4 Posted January 10, 2009 Just from my experience of removing the fairing to get to something I should have already done... There is a VITAL ground wire point on the left side of the mount frame that holds the coils, TCI and boost sensor... clean it up and make sure it's tight. The TCI and boost sensor are mounted with SOFT philips screws to that frame assembly... normally you can't get to them without pulling the fairings and unbolting the mount plate... change them to allen heads and you can get them out down the road without a major tear down. The plastic YICS chamber above the front cylinders is a failure waiting to happen... remove it and cap the engine ports. Great time to check and clean the water temp gauge housing and connectors on the right side and check the condition of the radiator hoses... dandy time for a complete radiator flush. I would add a switch that sends the battery's 12 volts to the fan so if you are caught in traffic and she starts heating you can turn on the fan without having to watch her dig into the red... you KNOW she's going to heat up in stop and go... With it off the temp sensor will still kick in but if you KNOW it's going to be stop and go for a while, she's a lot happier with the fan. Great time to replace the speakers with some waterproof new ones... several out there that sound great and are fairly cheap. Dandy time to grease the speedometer gears in the dash assembly... and tie a string around the speedo cable and a nearby frame piece... the cable has been know to get loose, drop down and the inner drive rod falls out on the road... (cheap insurance). I would add a thin washer under each of the four screws holding the blue connectors in the bottom of the radio tray... that will make the radio seat DEEPER into them and forgo the intermittant so many experience. Pull any connector and relay and clean and grease them (with dialectric grease)... some can't be reached nicely later. Great time to lube the throttle and choke cables! Check the upper cable going to the carbs... the one mounted on the far left side of the carb bank... they like to develop a fray right where the cable exits on the carb mount holder that leads to breakage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted January 10, 2009 Share #5 Posted January 10, 2009 Hey Mike, that was a really good response. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barend Posted January 11, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted January 11, 2009 My bike only has 22K on it, solenoid lookds to be in good shape, clean and free of corosion. It looks like there is some seepage around the valve covers. Not be a mechanic I do not know what you mean by checking the valve shims. i'll check ito getting some new valve cover gaskets. I am assuming these things heve some kind of torque spec?? (like handtight plus a half turn?) -All hoses and connection on the radiator are in good shape. I'll flush it and re-fill. -speedo already taken care of. -speakers already replaced. -YICS chamber in good shape plus it has mounting points for the inside fairing so i'm going to leave it. Yes I might regret that:smilies6: -Can't seem to find the ground point you are talking about, was going to add a ground to the frame as well. - Have an extra switch on the dash, I'll take that suggestion on the fan, does it require #10 wiring or can she run on less? Where do you recommend connecting the switch? Splice it into the fan itself or an override on the thermostatic switch somewhere? How would that affect the existing switch? -One of the pins in the blue radio connectors was pushed down, maybe some superglue?! I did notice that I have a coppery collored discoloration on the upper side of the waterpump cover, some on the rear valve cover (front cylinder left side) and the top of the bell cover over the stator (left side behind the engine guard). No clue what that signifies, though I would guess it may be temperature related? Probably should considering pulling the CMS and fixing it. Ah, the joys of ownership did i mention i am not that mechanically inclined:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted January 11, 2009 Share #7 Posted January 11, 2009 Its behing the INNER Wall of the Fairing. About 2 inches fwd, and 3 inches left of the Battery left side. Its there, and Its Important. Remove the bolt head, and Resolder all the Studs to the Black wires there, I think there are 4 black wires Grounded at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted January 12, 2009 Share #8 Posted January 12, 2009 Replace the wires and caps as you can get at them easier with the fairings off, otherwise Mike summed it up quite well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted January 12, 2009 Share #9 Posted January 12, 2009 If you are going to replace the valve cover gaskets, I think you will find that the bolt gaskets will be harder than hecky-durn, you should replace them as well, as they can seep oil from there, also. Heck, while you're at it, might as well tear down the whole thing and rebuild it! You're almost half way there now!! Besides, what else are you gonna do this winter? Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rody 1949 Posted January 12, 2009 Share #10 Posted January 12, 2009 I'm replacing battery cables as per Squidly's specs on my '83. So far I've got the right side apart and most of the left. Hopefully i'll remember how to put it back together While I have all the trim off, anything I should look at, clean, replace or other. As Rooster said, it's a PITA and I don't care to do it too often. Second, the secondary wires coming of the battery terminals are pretty short, I am debating extending them, perhaps by putting a pull apart connector in it as opposed to straight wiring. Thoughts? Last, I have enough supplies to make another set. If you're intersted let me know. I accept credit cards. Thanks. Oh yes! I would like the have that set, I have credit card or money order. Thank you so much. Rody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86er Posted January 13, 2009 Share #11 Posted January 13, 2009 While you are in there I would recomend relocating the TCI box. It sits on top of the coils and is subject to water and road grime. I put mine between the battery and the airbox but I have the smaller Odyssee battery and still had to cut the battery box. I noticed that AtlantaDragonSlayer has his taped on top of the airbox. In heavy rain or after a wash, I would often lose the number 3 cylinder. No problems since I moved it, and I've been in some serious rain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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