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I am sure this is going to start a debate but I am going to change the oil in the bike and switch to syn. So far all I have seen is Mobil 1 and its almost 9 bucks a qt. I seen the rotella in a blue bottle that I seen some here use but it doesnt say motorcycle safe on it that I seen? Were is everyone getting there oil at? Thanks for info Kevin

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I am sure this is going to start a debate but I am going to change the oil in the bike and switch to syn. So far all I have seen is Mobil 1 and its almost 9 bucks a qt. I seen the rotella in a blue bottle that I seen some here use but it doesnt say motorcycle safe on it that I seen? Were is everyone getting there oil at? Thanks for info Kevin

 

Syn cycle oil is not easily found. Some WalMarts carry the Mobil. If you can find a cycle shop that carries it, another syn is Specto Platnum, but is as pricey, if not more than Mobil.

I have been using Mobil, but as you stated, it is a little pricey which is why I may be switching to Rotella.

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i believe its for diesel engines (blue rotella)no friction modifiers. been using it in my Triumph for several years now. great stuff,way cheaper than all the other oils and does much the same job. i usually pick up a jug or two at wally mart in WA. lastime i bought some it was $20 (US) for a jug and an oil filter (same filter for the RSV :cool10:)

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  • 3 months later...

I use Amsoil Have for years also use it in the race bike and have had good luck with it. It has been tested on bikes by the race teams And they are very happy with it. If it good enough for them then good enough for me. Don't run mine as hard as they do . Even my clutch seams to grab better Thus longer life. Not A proven thing though. :15_8_211[1]:

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what weight of oil is everyone using if they switch to mobil one? I need to change mine this weekend and its winter here so I think I need to run a lighter weight but not sure??? Thanks

 

I run Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. I live in NE Ohio and run it year round. Don't ride much in the winter though. If i DID, it is still what I would run.

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I bought my 05 last September. Just changed the oil for the first time about a month ago and went to Amsoil. Took a ride down to Ft. Lauderdale and back over three days. When I got back home I noticed the tranny seemed noisy. I drained the Amsoil and put in Mobil One 4t. Tranny quiet now however, I haven't run it as far as the Amsoil yet. Jury still out but I've run Mobil One in my V-Star for several months and I think it is great. Gave me about 4 extra miles per gallon even without the friction modifiers so the clutch still functions properly.

 

My brother (96 Harley Road King) has run Amsoil exclusively and that is why I tried it. He said he is going to switch to Shell Rotella T for the savings in price. Having it available at Wal-Mart is another plus.

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what weight of oil is everyone using if they switch to mobil one? I need to change mine this weekend and its winter here so I think I need to run a lighter weight but not sure??? Thanks

 

I just put in 10W40 Valvoline Moto oil and it is my oil all year round. You can use 10W30 per the owner's manual with no problems.

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I don't use Syn. they say some Wet clutch slipping with syn ! I run 20/50 Yum lube all winter.

Synthetic oil has nothing to do with clutch slipping. JASO-MA is a specific oil specification that ensures the oil will not cause slippage from any wet clutch in good condition. Your owner's manual specifically calls for JASO-MA oil, but few of us pay attention to that. Any oil labeled to meet JASO-MA will be fine for the clutch, even if it might be terrible for everything else!

 

But many oils may be able to pass JASO-MA standards without having been formally tested and certified and labeled that way. That seems to be the case with Shell Rotella oils (both synthetic and regular). Unless an oil is bing specifically marketed as a motorcycle oil (with the usual jacked-up prices), it just doesn't make financial sense for a company to get the certification.

 

The choice of oil is often a very emotional and personal thing - sometimes oil discussions can be as nasty as politics! I don't have any desire to try and convince anyone to change oils; what you put in your bike is your business. But for those who haven't already made up their mind, a litle research may show that either Rotella oil (syn or dino) could be the best of both worlds. IMHO, it is a great oil at a great price, available in bulk at lots of places, and Shell states it even meets JASO-MA specs. I personally believe in synthetic oils, but I use Rotella dino in my RSV simply because I do not want to extend the change intervals while it is still under warranty. If I keep it after the warranty is over, I'll switch. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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Guest 05RSMVTEXAN

I ride with an old man that is an engineer. He retired from an oil field equipment plant after MANY years. After this he helped design and set up these big wind blades you see in these wind farms. He has told me stories about how scared he is of Amsoil. He said when the first wind blades were going up the gear boxes were burning up right and left. He said they did thorough studies to see what was causing this. He said they were all being ran with Amsoil. He said after a lot of study they went with Mobil 1 synthetic and the problem immediately stopped. Now I know a motorcycle is not a windmill, with that said, and him being a great friend, I still run Amsoil syntheic in all my bikes. I've never had a problem. My buddy laughs at me when I buy it. He thinks it's funny that Amsoil has special motorcycle oil. He always asks me what is the special ingrediant that makes it unique to motorcycles and that makes it cost more. He says it's a $$$ gimmick. It might be. I don't know, but I'll run Amsoil till I see different. I can't really say why, it just appears alot of people are pleased with it. But then again (here comes a new can of worms to open) I see Harleys everywhere, so we know the majority isn't always right.:mo money:

Edited by 05RSMVTEXAN
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I ride with an old man that is an engineer. He retired from an oil field equipment plant after MANY years. After this he helped design and set up these big wind blades you see in these wind farms. He has told me stories about how scared he is of Amsoil. He said when the first wind blades were going up the gear boxes were burning up right and left. He said they did thorough studies to see what was causing this. He said they were all being ran with Amsoil. He said after a lot of study they went with Mobil 1 synthetic and the problem immediately stopped. Now I know a motorcycle is not a windmill, with that said, and him being a great friend, I still run Amsoil syntheic in all my bikes. I've never had a problem. My buddy laughs at me when I buy it. He thinks it's funny that Amsoil has special motorcycle oil. He always asks me what is the special ingrediant that makes it unique to motorcycles and that makes it cost more. He says it's a $$$ gimmick. It might be. I don't know, but I'll run Amsoil till I see different. I can't really say why, it just appears alot of people are pleased with it. But then again (here comes a new can of worms to open) I see Harleys everywhere, so we know the majority isn't always right.:mo money:

 

One of my uncles retired from Penzoil. He was a research chemist there in Texas. After much testing and reverse engineering of oils over the years, he told me this for my vehicles: if it takes 5 qts, put in 4 qts regular and 1 qt synthetic. Does not mateer if it is name brand or store brand. Change oil and filter every 3000 to 4000 miles and you should have no problems. And DO NOT ever use Slick 50!

Been doing that for years now. But with the bike, I am a little more A-retentive.

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Guest 05RSMVTEXAN
One of my uncles retired from Penzoil. He was a research chemist there in Texas. After much testing and reverse engineering of oils over the years, he told me this for my vehicles: if it takes 5 qts, put in 4 qts regular and 1 qt synthetic. Does not mateer if it is name brand or store brand. Change oil and filter every 3000 to 4000 miles and you should have no problems. And DO NOT ever use Slick 50!

Been doing that for years now. But with the bike, I am a little more A-retentive.

Not that I have ever used slick 50, but what did he say about it?

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Guest Saddletramp

As I recall slick 50 contains an additive that will build up on your cylider walls and eventually take away the engineered tolerances. I believe that their product will recommend use of another supplement to remove this build-up on a periodic basis. I use the Yamalube 15-50 full synthetic. Yes it is a little pricey but it is their oil and therefore fully compatible, and besides it's my dollar and my machine. If you are a member of Star Touring your Yamaha dealer should be giving you a 10% discount which will bring it down to $10.80/qt.. Yes I know you can go to Wal-mart and other places and get oil cheaper but I do believe in supporting corporate as well as my local dealer and as I said before "IT'S MY DOLLAR"!

Edited by Saddletramp
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Thanks everyone for all the info! I do agree with goose everyone has what they like or want and thats why there are choices. I just wanted other options and knew there would be alot of input from the ones that know here and I thank you all for that!!

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