Condor Posted June 18, 2007 Share #26 Posted June 18, 2007 ok pinion is not working correctly. no plates on the bike right now and the pinion will bairly "wiggle" when i press on the lever as hard as i can i might add. how do i free up the pinion to move Have you ever had the 'rods'... I like to call 'm rods... out? If you can get the lever to move using the bleeder valve and the rods aren't moving then I highly suspect the slave is bad. Or.... The reason I asked the first question is that there are two push rods and ball bearing between them that the slave, on the other side of the engine, pushes on. They have a rounded end and a flat end. The flat end goes against the ball. If you put them in with the round side against the ball they will bind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share #27 Posted June 18, 2007 I've not removed the "rods". so is the slave the portion that the bleeder valve is hooked onto? and would i need to replace it or could i simply clean it out? on the schematic the slave is the parts labled "27" right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 18, 2007 Share #28 Posted June 18, 2007 I've not removed the "rods". so is the slave the portion that the bleeder valve is hooked onto? and would i need to replace it or could i simply clean it out? on the schematic the slave is the parts labled "27" right? #27 is the Slave-Cylinder, right I just did a bit Research about the Background of the Bike ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=93283&postcount=1 So, i think either the Mastercylinder ist stuck on it's Piston, or there was someone working on Clutch Years before and couldn't manage to get the so called Rod's (btw an outtake from the Yammi-Parts-List) and the Ball together. Maybe the Ball is missing. If the Piston is stuck, i'm afraid to say, you have to dismount the Slave, order a Repair-Kit and get it fixed. There are some Guys who did this with Success. I personally haven't done that in the Past. If i remember right, at least GeorgeS has done that some Weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 18, 2007 Share #29 Posted June 18, 2007 Removing the slave cylinder is not difficult, even though it can be a little bit tricky to get out of the hole and back in again, but it will go. Just try not to break off the bolts holding it on and there is just two, I believe. I think you are getting closer to getting it identified. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhncue Posted June 18, 2007 Share #30 Posted June 18, 2007 #27 is the Slave-Cylinder, right I just did a bit Research about the Background of the Bike ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=93283&postcount=1 So, i think either the Mastercylinder ist stuck on it's Piston, or there was someone working on Clutch Years before and couldn't manage to get the so called Rod's ( btw an outtake from the Yammi-Parts-List) and the Ball together. Maybe the Ball is missing. If the Piston is stuck, i'm afraid to say, you have to dismount the Slave, order a Repair-Kit and get it fixed. There are some Guys who did this with Success. I personally haven't done that in the Past. If i remember right, at least GeorgeS has done that some Weeks ago. I have rebuilt my slave in the past and it was a pain in the arse. Rebuilding the unit wasn't tough but getting it out was. A lot of folks on this forum have said that they just replaced theirs with a new slave as they aren't that expensive but if that is true it would be a first for Yamaha. The hard part is that the unit is held in place by two 5.5mm socket head screws and are lock-tighted in place. When you go to remove these two bolts be sure to clean the sockets well with carb cleaner, use a good, hard Allen wrench, and I put some Glover valve grinding compound onto the end of the wrench so as to stop it from slipping and rounding the Allen wrench, or worse, the socket head screw. Once the screws are out you have to keep playing with the slave to get it out as it only comes out one way and actually doesn't seem like it will. Rebuilding was simple if you have a brake cylinder hone to take the burnish off of the walls. Mine was filled up with dirt and sediment so that there was little movement of the piston. Made a huge difference in the clutch disengagement process once completed. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 18, 2007 Share #31 Posted June 18, 2007 second Thought: as the Seals in Slave are nearly Waste anyways, you could give 'brute Force' a Try. Use a 2x4 Piece of Wood as a Damper and give the Rod a slight!!!! Hit with the Hammer. The Rod will go back in normal Place and probably not stuck anymore, even when you pull the Lever several Times to test the Moving. It's a Risk, no Question, but Life's a Risk also... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share #32 Posted June 18, 2007 Can I remove the slave without takeing the trans cover off? or do i take that off to start then remove the slave? just looking for a few tips before i start messing with that side. could it simply be an easy fix such as cleaning it all out and putting it back together? or am I more likely going to be rebuilding the slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted June 18, 2007 Share #33 Posted June 18, 2007 I've not removed the "rods". so is the slave the portion that the bleeder valve is hooked onto? and would i need to replace it or could i simply clean it out? on the schematic the slave is the parts labled "27" right? If it's just dirty it might be cleanable, but if it's ugly and rusted a new one runs around $70 bucks, and for the difference between new and a rebuild kit, new made more sense. When I replaced mine I bought the new one from www.buckeyeperformance.com. Also don't discount that a previous owner may have asssembled the clutch wrong. ...PO's are notorious for doing that... It's what happened to me. I fianlly went back to ground zero and put it together by the book and It's worked great ever since. And ya gotta take the middle gear cover off....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 18, 2007 Share #34 Posted June 18, 2007 Can I remove the slave without takeing the trans cover off? or do i take that off to start then remove the slave? just looking for a few tips before i start messing with that side. could it simply be an easy fix such as cleaning it all out and putting it back together? or am I more likely going to be rebuilding the slave? Once you have the Slave undone, it just makes no Sense to just clean it and put it back in Place. A Repair-Kit or a new Unit would solve this for the next Years. If you just clean it, maybe you will find yourselves wrenching at it the next 4 Weeks, because it's leaking. The left Side Cover has to be undone to get the Slave out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share #35 Posted June 18, 2007 Well one thing is for sure i did mess up a lil when I put the clutch back together the last time. I put the bolts back on like a car directly across from eachother and tighten them down not in a triangular patern. one question about the hit it and pray option... what are possible ramifications of this option? can I do more damage than is already done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share #36 Posted June 18, 2007 Also what is in a rebuild kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 18, 2007 Share #37 Posted June 18, 2007 If you don't utilize the 10 Pounder giving it several hard Hits, there is nothing what could be hurt seriously. It's just to loosen the stuck Piston out of this Place. As it had stuck the first Time, every time you pulled the Lever, the Piston was pressed more and more in this stucking Place. If you force it back to normal Place, there's a Chance of get it working normal again. Nobody knows how and why it did stuck, maybe it was just from some Misaligment in the Clutch-Assembly or whatever else. Just hit it slightly, until the Rod moves a bit, then two or three even slighter Hits and it will be gone back to where it should be. If your not 100 Percent sure about the Line, open the Bleeder a bit, it will work as a second Damper and stop the Piston from crashing hard against the back of the Cylinder. First Damper would be the Fluid in Line. As for the Bolt-Pattern ... that's not that bad. Bad would have been if you tightened the Bolts one by one clockwise or counterclockwise. and ... check the Rods and the Ball for existing in Place, if you're not sure that nobody tinkered around with the Parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 18, 2007 Share #38 Posted June 18, 2007 When you take that side cover off there is a washer on the bottom center Allen screw. It needs to go back in same place or you will have leak. I think there is a good chance you could break everything down and carefully clean it and get clutch to work. It may end up leaking and you would have to go back in but 2nd time is lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share #39 Posted June 18, 2007 WooHoo!!! it appears that the hit it with a hammer and hope for the best worked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted June 19, 2007 Share #40 Posted June 19, 2007 WooHoo!!! it appears that the hit it with a hammer and hope for the best worked! Everyone needs a good clutch hammer!!! RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild hair 39 Posted June 19, 2007 Share #41 Posted June 19, 2007 like a dumn a--lost the clutch in WIChITA,didn't even look at the flould,road it home,clean replaced with dot 4,off to atlanta,lost it again,this time i check the floud,real bad looking,mast have mosture in it,this time new dot 4,so far so good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 19, 2007 Share #42 Posted June 19, 2007 WooHoo!!! it appears that the hit it with a hammer and hope for the best worked! Congrats so far, hopefully this worked out for you fine, the next Days will tell you the Truth. If it's getting to leak, it will start the next Days. I'll keep my Fingers crossed. How much Travel did you manage to get, when pressing the Lever ? Everyone needs a good clutch hammer!!! RandyA Yeah, i second that ... :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 19, 2007 Author Share #43 Posted June 19, 2007 now I can squeeze it almost all the way to the grip. still feels nothing like the clutch on my 86 ninja 1000r so i'm not sure if i've got it right. wont know till i get a chance to take her down the street. heres a good question how can one tell if the clutch plates are worn down to where they need replaceing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 19, 2007 Share #44 Posted June 19, 2007 Hi, the Steel-Plates are checked for blue discoloring and for warping on a even Surface. The Plates are checked for warping and Thickness by measuring. Check the Manual for the correct Sizes. Even Surface could be a Pane of Glass. I think, you need to go for a Ride and get all Things moved. After that, Decisions can be made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 20, 2007 Share #45 Posted June 20, 2007 Squeeze is right needs to be rode if it is working and used. It may fix itself now by being used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiny84 Posted June 20, 2007 Author Share #46 Posted June 20, 2007 I'm thinking i might just head down to the dealer and order the slave and a set of gaskets for both sides of the trany. i'm seening a small puddle of oil under the bike now. not sure if its hypralic fluid or oil but figure i just do it right for a change. I do need to get it going down the street to be sure its running ok anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 20, 2007 Share #47 Posted June 20, 2007 I would wait to see where its comingv from but you can't hurt anything. Good Luck and Enjoy!!! Let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest timshosvt Posted June 21, 2007 Share #48 Posted June 21, 2007 My piston was sticky in the slave cylinder and would disengage but was sluggish. I flushed and bled without success. I took it apart and found rusty fluid inside that didn't come out with a vigorous bleeding and flushing session. I used a gray scotchbrite pad (000 steel wool, 800 grit wet sandpaper would work) and cleaned up the rusty piston and cleaned up the bore and unsuccessfully tried to reuse the seal. It leaked. I bought a new one for 11 something US dollars at www.zanottimotor.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now