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Strange Noise:


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I have a strange noise I've not been able to pinpoint. Seems like it's a resonate vibration pronounced at 35mph-75mph on smooth road in third gear or higher. If you get off the throttle, the noise instantly stops. Almost sounds like electrical "buzz" through the intercom but they're not plugged in and I can hear it when riding w/out a helmet. Can't hear it when holding an elevated idle speed at a stop so have to be moving. I've set the cruise and physically pushed down on saddle bag lids, trunk lid, passenger floor pans, exhaust pipe, etc. and haven't been able to isolate it yet. Definitely sound on the right rear of the bike for certain. I'm wondering if maybe one of the vacuum solenoids under the engine could be suspect?

 

The noise was there prior to a major chassis service being performed. Doesn't sound mechanical as in a shuttle valve operating incorrectly at all and really is not loud. However when wearing a helmet, the sound path is elevated to my ears so the noise is traveling. It's also there hot, or cold. Does not sound like a loose baffle, or exhaust leak at all but more like a "buzz" that does not change frequency. It is steady, doesn't elevate in intensity, and is constant above 35mph and can be heard at 75mph easily.

 

Any suggestions as to where to start?

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

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On the light bar under the headlight, there is plastic chrome piece that snaps over the center of the light bar. These become loose over time and can cause a racket. I taped up the light bar with electrical tape and reinstalled chrome piece and this fixed that rattle. Just one thing for you to look for.

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Right rear,, relax the throttle and it quits? I would double check for looseness in motor mounts, check the pipe mounting bolts and any contact the pipes may be making with frame (i.e. = rock or loose bolt laying between pipes and frame. Check carb sync (yep - can cause some strange vibes), give rear brake caliper a wack with a rubber mallet to nock the pistons in a little - ride it up to vibration speed without hitting rear brake and see if it changes anything. Try reaching back and wrapping hand around antenna's when you hear noise..

Bout all I can think of at the moment..

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I had one of those heat guards on top of the valve covers, you know the ones you burn your leg on if you ride with shorts, break one time, the break was so clean you could not see it unless you pulled on it and opened the gap. The broken ends would rub together at certain speeds and RPMs and just drive me crazy with a high pitch squeal. Could be something like that, fractured or just loose enough to vibrate and rub against the opposing surface. Screw or bolt may feel tight may be tight, but if it is not tight against what ever it is holding down, that part will still vibrate and make noise.

 

Also sometimes wearing ear plugs while riding will change what frequencies you hear, maybe wearing ear plugs will remove some of the other noise and help isolate the noise source better, also if you ride with ear plugs for a few hours then remove them and continue riding you will (at least it happens to me) hear a lot of things you did not hear before, that also may help to locate the source more precisely.

 

Just some thoughts, your mileage will vary, as the car folks say.

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Hmmmm, does not change in pitch or volume with speed?? OK that would pretty much rule out any mechanical issues like engine or drivetrain. I guess I would start by removing the right saddlebag completely and go around the block. Still there? Remove the trunk as well! Keep on going to eliminate what is CAN'T be! What is throwing me for a loop is the fact that it goes away when you let off on the throttle. Puc may be right on with the loose motor mount, or it could be something with the exhaust. Sounds like you got a tough one there Rob...

 

 

You can always just turn the radio up louder...

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Found something to try. I had both saddlebags off the bike during service of the rear wheel which was completely disassembled for service splines, oil, brakes, caliper, etc. but really never looked at the chrome mounts the saddlebag guards mount to. The bolt shown here:

KIMG1462.jpg

was very loose and the others which hold the mount to the bike weren't all that tight. I've now thoroughly tightened all these fasteners on both sides and will give it a try. Probably tonight it will go back up onto the stand for a "tighter" inpection of the parts normally hidden.

 

Really liking the synthetic oil in the differential and synthetic grease on the splines. Also the Honda GN-4 oil has made the bike shift and clutch operate as it should with just a few miles ridden. Seems to be a good workable combination.

 

Thanks again to the responders. I'll post an update later today.

 

Rob

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No joy to be had as of yet. I have a stock Yamaha windshield and removed the chrome crossbar cover under the fairing for the ride home. As mentioned earlier I tightened all the fasteners which retain the chrome saddlebag mounts and can't find anything else really loose. I'll pull the saddlebags shortly and ride without them as it opens up a lot more to evaluate.

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Noise is still there without the saddlebags installed. This is getting strange as there is no audible change compared to before. I got all the fasteners in the rear very tight but don't want to distort the hex recess in the stainless fasteners so can't go any tighter. The bushings in the saddlebag mounts are in good condition and still supple. I'm going to tape the rear exhaust caps on the mufflers at their joint to see if it's possibly an exhaust leak although it really doesn't sound like it?

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Hello,

 

Dismantle the claws of the rear wheel, clean and grease ..... that's all to do

 

Chris

 

My apologies but I do not understand your posting. I did however clean and grease the drive splines and changed the differential oil. All old lubricants were flushed clean prior to new being installed. The noise was present prior to the bike being serviced and is not something new.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

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Adjusted the rear suspension air pressure to 50psi from 20psi prior to the ride to work this morning and a bit of difference for certain. The noise is still there but definitely different. I only ride 8.8 miles on smooth road and no traffic to work so not a really good comparison to anything yet.

 

Is there a chance there could be bushings or pins worn in the rear shock absorber or mountings causing this? It does not lose air pressure over time I've noticed, but there has to be movement or articulation to the assembly as negotiation of the roadway takes place? 50psi is a bit harsh to ride quality when by oneself and 20 psi is much easier on the lower back pounding.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

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There are bearings in your shock linkage that could be getting dry but I don't think that would cause a buzzing noise. Maybe a loose bolt in the shock linkage that would cause a buzz. I had a buzz coming from the front of my RSV and it turned out to be one of the front blinker lenses being slightly loose. That would only buzz at certain rpm's. You could check your rear lenses and make sure they are not loose. I found my loose lens by just tapping on parts with my fingers and hands. Sound travels so your buzz could be coming from anywhere on the bike. Good Luck

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Is the chrome trim at the top of the fairing covering the windsheild mounting bolts loose? The mounting tabs are frequently broken

 

I actually applied blue "painters tape" over this moulding and the lower windshield to eliminate as possibilities. It doesn't rattle when tapped by hand but I had most of the bike wrapped in tape covering most all openings and crevices to disrupt normal air flow. It kinda/sorta sounds like a spark plug wire arcing over but I've not seen any compromise to them and the frequency of the "buzz" does not change through the rpm operational range. That scenario in itself is kinda ruled out as the frequency does not sound like a single cylinder and there is no engine miss I've detected.

 

Pm me your phone number and we'll get together and you can ride it to see what I'm speaking of.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

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I've removed the saddlebags and went for a ride with no joy as a result; the rattle was still persistent. Did do a bit of cleaning while it was apart but nothing worth mentioning except tightened all fasteners very snug:KIMG1464.jpg Reinstalled the saddlebags hoping a simple repositioning of parts would do the trick but again, no joy.

 

I went to remove the trunk and discovered I'm a victim of my own "**** for brains" mentality sometimes as evidenced by these photos. The first being the empty trunk:KIMG1465.jpg Now as soon as I lifted the edge of the trunk foam, this is what I discover laying on the right side:KIMG1466.jpg I'd purchased that section of hydraulic brake line several years ago for a Land Rover I was working on not remembering I'd stuck it in the trunk, and having to purchase another section to finish the job. Such a ignorant mistake on my part thought I'd share. This rattle has really driven me nuts all summer since starting to ride again but never had an inkling to check under the mats for anything until attempting to physically remove the tour package units.

 

I guess we live and learn. Thanks to all for the assist.

 

With all the findings, repairs, modifications, etc. I'm doing and have done to this bike it is really starting to grow on me. Even had an older gent and wife riding an Electra-Glide Classic tell me it was a good looking bike at a stoplight last evening. Older gent lacking all the riding garb and tatoos; his comment was sincere I felt.

 

Rob

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