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Radio does not work


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Any sound at all or anything happen with turning the volume knob or pressing any buttons, or is it 100% dead?

Step 1 check Power, start with the fuse.  The Audio system fuse is located behind the right side cover, below the seat.

Ever since I installed risers on my handlebar, I've had my controller stop working a couple of times and each time had to remove the fairing and re-seat the connector from the controller to the head unit.  I finally got smart enough the 2nd time around to reroute the cable so there was no tension on it.  I should have thought to do that when installing the risers as I was basically pulling on the connector when turning the bars to the left and would eventually force it to disconnect. 

You could have a similar issue, if not a power issue.  Or a bad controller or bad head unit. 

After the fuse/power check, remove the fairing and disconnect each connector one at a time and inspect for any corrosion, broken wires, etc and go from there.  After 22 years, it would not be surprising to find some corrosion on a connector.

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When I had my 2006 I had the fairing off doing some wiring for an accessory I was adding and while I was there I unplugged and check the connections and also applied dielectric grease to help keep out moister and a few connectors felt a little loose so I used a zip tie to secure them which was probably over kill since I had not had any trouble out of them before. 

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Posted (edited)

Yes,

It is not too hard, just be careful with the chrome strip. Also if you have driving lights you may need to loosen them up before you take the fairing off.

A couple of threads on removing the front fairing.

 

 

 

 

Edited by etcswjoe
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Just a suggestion for troubleshooting the short.  Review the wiring diagram in the tech section here & have a good idea of where you will need to look.  My guess is the wiring & possibly an inline connector is accessible under the tank. 
 

If there is a connector there, you can possibly identify the wire, and isolate the location of the short to one side, or the other of that connector. 
 

If you’re lucky, the short will be between that possible connector & the fuse so that you do not have to open the fairing.  Pulling the tank is pretty quick & easy. 
 

If the short is on the fairing side, at least you know, but did spend some extra time/ energy with pulling the tank & now need to split the fairing. 
 

keep us posted. 
 

 

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https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf
 

I’m sitting in Vegas airport on a 3-hr layover & was able to pull up the schematic on my phone, and miraculously could actually read it!

You are looking for a brown/white wire.  It goes from the fuse to both the head unit in the fairing & the CB unit located under the trunk. 
 

There are two connectors shown on the schematic.  I’m 99.9% certain the connector going to the CB is under the seat. 
 

Start there!  Not sure about the 2nd connector location though.  I know there is a big connector under the tank & another one in the fairing, so 50/50.

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Well i looked around and did not find anything. Then it hit me . I added a backrest. Removed seats and that's where i found shorted wire. Waiting on wire and shrink tube, and butt connectors. Have to order everything online. Nothing close . will reroute wires and try it again. Thanks for all the idea's and concern.

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1 hour ago, Junior said:

Well i looked around and did not find anything. Then it hit me . I added a backrest. Removed seats and that's where i found shorted wire. Waiting on wire and shrink tube, and butt connectors. Have to order everything online. Nothing close . will reroute wires and try it again. Thanks for all the idea's and concern.

Awesome, glad it ended up being something relatively simple to fix.  Hope you figured that out before digging into the fairing.

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  • 4 weeks later...
5 hours ago, Junior said:

Put all wires together. Radio doesn't light up ? Checked audio fuse .ok is there another fuse?

I don't see another one on the schematic.  Let's start at the beginning, with power.  Confirm you have power on both sides of the fuse with a volt meter, using a chassis point for ground, and for grins/giggles, check at the CB connector under the seat, i.e. where you made the repair.

If you have power there, the next step is to pull your front fairing off.  You will be looking for the larger, white, rectangular connector and specifically the Brown/white wire in that connector.  Check again for power with the volt meter.  If you have a fine tipped probe on your volt meter, check both sides of the connector.  If you have power on one side, but no, or lower voltage on the other, you have a corroded connection.

If power is good on both sides of the connector, then find the round, black connector going from the head unit to the remote.  My memory is failing, but I think it has either a red or blue tape on it.  In any case, just wiggle the cable from the handlebar side and trace it into the fairing.

This is the connector that I've had come loose a couple of times, even though it has a latch on it, and when it comes loose, the handlebar remote goes dark and the radio stops working.  I believe there is an arrow indicating where to press to release the latch so you can separate the two.  If you are at this point, you are looking for either a loose connection or corrosion.

If that all looks good and disconnecting/reconnecting the two aforementioned connectors does not resolve the problem, we're getting into hail mary territory.  Try disconnecting/reseating each of the other connectors one-by-one.  First disconnect to isolate what is on the other end and then turn on the key to see if radio works.  If it does, you are zeroing in on the problem.  If not, reconnect and check again.  If still no dice, do the same for each of the the other connections.

If after all that, you've essentially confirmed the head unit has power, the remote is connected (a must) and none of the periphery (CB, cassette, speakers, etc) are causing the problem.  That leads to most likely a faulty head unit.

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@Junior I took another look at the schematic and there are a couple more points to check out.  See the two pics below.  There are two more connection points on the Brown/white wire coming from the fuse.  I'm 99% certain one of those is the one under the seat going to the CB, but not sure where the other one is located.  Also, you will need to check your ground connections for the head unit and the remote.  A broken/bad ground connection has the same effect as a broken/bad power connection - no current flow.  And lastly, check the connection coming right off the ignition switch.  It is the red, 3-pin connector under the tank.

radio1.jpg

radio2.jpg

radio2.psd

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I rechecked my wiring ok. Checked for voltage at fuse. Nothing. I looked at books and manual and discovered there is another fuse box located on left side under cover by passenger floorboard. Looked on Venture site and found there is a 10 amp fuse marked backup that if it is bad audio won't work. Took apart sure enough fuse was bad. Replaced and cleaned fuse area up and put back together. Works as it should now. Put seats and backrest back on . Good advice from you about checking everything and troubleshooting saved the day. Good learning experience. Thanks to all.

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1 hour ago, Junior said:

I rechecked my wiring ok. Checked for voltage at fuse. Nothing. I looked at books and manual and discovered there is another fuse box located on left side under cover by passenger floorboard. Looked on Venture site and found there is a 10 amp fuse marked backup that if it is bad audio won't work. Took apart sure enough fuse was bad. Replaced and cleaned fuse area up and put back together. Works as it should now. Put seats and backrest back on . Good advice from you about checking everything and troubleshooting saved the day. Good learning experience. Thanks to all.

Sweet!  Well done and great research on your part!  I see that fuse now, its labelled at 'odometer' on the electrical diagram in the tech section, so I didn't catch that the R/G wire off that fuse does indeed go to the audio, along with the odometer.

I also now see that my clymer manual correctly calls it 'backup' as that is how its labelled on the fuse box itself, not 'odometer'.

Thanks for keeping us posted and letting us all learn something new along the way (at least I did!)

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