2step Posted September 26, 2011 Share #1 Posted September 26, 2011 OK, got this noise from the rear like a wheel bearing going down, so I put her on a lift, spin the tire and its got a spot, same place every turn, like a flat spot on bearing. So I pull the axle, then spin the tire and quite as a mouse, so I take the wheel in to the shop and have both side wheel bearing and seals replaced. Came back home put it all back together, SAME THING, with axle in and while riding same noise, axle out no noise. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2step Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwx Posted September 26, 2011 Share #2 Posted September 26, 2011 Did the noise develop gradually over time? Or did it just start suddenly? How 'bout the drive hub, there's a needle bearing in there, I think. Also, the cush drive inserts? Taking pressure off the axle nut could maybe cause the noise to come and go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Butler Posted September 26, 2011 Share #3 Posted September 26, 2011 OK, got this noise from the rear like a wheel bearing going down, so I put her on a lift, spin the tire and its got a spot, same place every turn, like a flat spot on bearing. So I pull the axle, then spin the tire and quite as a mouse, so I take the wheel in to the shop and have both side wheel bearing and seals replaced. Came back home put it all back together, SAME THING, with axle in and while riding same noise, axle out no noise. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2step Steve, I posted this a while back. So why don't you try this (especially step 3)and see if it helps your problem. Rick This axle alignment procedure has been around since before 1988 and they just recycled it in 2006. In fact I was told how to do it from a early Venture mechanic and I have been using it since then where when I'm finished the wheel spins quietly every time. I guess I could provide pictures, but the process starts when you remove the wheel as follows: 1. Before loosening and removing the axle, etc, loosen the 4 acorn nuts where the drive shaft attaches to the final drive. This also allows the wheel to come out easier because the final drive will move as you slide the wheel out. 2. These final drive acorn nuts should remain loose until you put the wheel back on the final drive before inserting the axle. 3. Once you insert the axle and push it all the way into the right side of the swing arm, insert a 10mm allen socket into the axle. I like to use a 3/8" breaker bar instead of a ratchet so I can rotate it in either direction. Rotate the axle 360 degrees until you find the soft spot where you feel the least resistence. When I find this spot, I score the edge with the corner of a file at the pinch bolt slit. This allows me to set the axle each time because this sweet spot will remain in the same location. 4. Now put the axle nut and washer on and snug it up until the axle pulls all the way through. Then tighten the pinch bolt and torque the 27mm axle nut to 110 ft lbs. 5. Now finish the process by tightening the acorn nuts to spec. This 3 step process allows the axle and final drive to be completely aligned where there will be no binding in any of the splin connections. On first gens, this process can be done on the road on the center stand where you will loosen the nuts up and then tighten everything back up in the above sequence. Second gens will require a jack stand to do this. And it also helps to grease the clutch hub fingers. Hope this helps, Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikenut Posted September 26, 2011 Share #4 Posted September 26, 2011 I would bet it is the hub fingers not being greased. They make some strange noises when they need grease and will act just like you stated. The other thing is what Rick stated about your axle will cause this also. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACE50 Posted September 26, 2011 Share #5 Posted September 26, 2011 BTW, in reinstalling the shaft drive to grease the splines, any good ways/tips in getting it back in the universal joint without a lot of bad words thown in!? Seems to me they could have tapered the end a little to help get it back in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted September 26, 2011 Share #6 Posted September 26, 2011 BTW, in reinstalling the shaft drive to grease the splines, any good ways/tips in getting it back in the universal joint without a lot of bad words thown in!? Seems to me they could have tapered the end a little to help get it back in? If you look in the drive shaft housing up by the U-Joint, there is a small plastic plug. Remove the plug and use something like a coat hanger to help guide the drive shaft into the U-Joint. Still isn't easy, just easier. And to the OP, sound like you need to grease the drive pins. Use Honda Moly60 available at the Honda dealer. Cheaper at Honda car than Honda bike. Although, the dealer would have had to remove that part to replace the bearings. Would assume they greased the pins before reassembling. Maybe something else. Will have to think on this one. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 26, 2011 Share #7 Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) 4. Now put the axle nut and washer on and snug it up until the axle pulls all the way through. Then tighten the pinch bolt and torque the 27mm axle nut to 110 ft lbs. 5. Now finish the process by tightening the acorn nuts to spec. Not trying to be a wet blanket here, I am just asking about the order of two items above. It would seem some what more logical to tighten the 4 final drive acorn nuts down first before tightening the axle all the way up. The reason I ask is that if there were to be any side shift of the drive hub due to rear swing arm possibly being to the outside limit of manufacturing tolerance, one would then be pulling the drive hub back into alignment with the much smaller acorn nuts & studs, more than likely with just one of them (first one tightened). The pressure is also being exerted on the flanges that the studs pass through. Not arguing, just throwing this out there. Gary Edited September 27, 2011 by dingy added 'acorn nuts' to second line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted September 26, 2011 Share #8 Posted September 26, 2011 Try spinning it with the rear caliper off and see if the noise is still there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2step Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share #9 Posted September 26, 2011 Thanks everyone for the info, I will try all of them till I find it. Again Thanks. I will let you know when I figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22lyons Posted September 26, 2011 Share #10 Posted September 26, 2011 sounds like the hub pins to me. i had the same kind of noise and took it apart and found the hub pins rusty and in need of some moly 60 paste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted September 26, 2011 Share #11 Posted September 26, 2011 See this: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Butler Posted September 27, 2011 Share #12 Posted September 27, 2011 Yeah Kent, Item 1. is very much like the process that I use. And finding that soft spot in the axle is critical. And Dingy, all I know is that if you pull the axle spins together first and then the shaft acorn nuts, it pulls everything together so there is no binding in the splins. Rick See this: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2step Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share #13 Posted October 4, 2011 OK, thanks everyone for the help, i did everything on here and everything seems very quite just spinning the wheel, I will test drive tomorrow. My guess it was the hub fingers, they were all rusted, I cleaned them up, greased with Moly 60 and used a dremel with wire brush attachment to get down in the holes and clean them. Again thanks. 2step:guitarist 2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted October 5, 2011 Share #14 Posted October 5, 2011 Just for others reading this, a 20 guage gun bore cleaning brush works also on the pin bores. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2step Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted October 7, 2011 Rode about 20 miles today, everything seems fine Thanks 2step Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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