mralex714

I had the battery and charging system check and all was fine and I haven't had a single issue since I replaced the headlight ballast.

Yes they do. If you look on the inner part of the clutch they run down the inner side. When I got the first one they provided a replacement without even wanting to see it or for me to return it. When I got the replacement and it was the same I sent a picture of what I was talking about. They did not respond and I had ebay contact them and the the offered the refund. This leads to me to believe that it's a problem and they know about it.

I don't see the point of a crack on purpose, a crack at a screw hole is not good. The second one I got was the same. I sent a picture to Caltric they offered me a refund with no explanation about the cracks.

The smoke came from the ground wire at the battery.

I got this starter clutch from Caltric and it looks cracked at those 3 screws. This is the second one and they were both the same. Do I need to be concerned about this or should I return it?

I have a 4 brush starter installed. It has been rebuilt once and during the last few months it would crank slow (cold or hot) and sometimes not at all (smoking ground wire at the battery). I took the bike to Auto Zone to check the battery. The battery and charging system were fine. As I pulled up to the store I noticed my headlight was out (Opt 7 HID conversion). Long story shot the ballast was bad and I had one from a car setup I bought by mistake. After this I had a good headlight and haven't had a starting issue since. So my question was a bad HID ballast causing my stater issues or should I still be looking at a starter issue?

I reinstalled the carbs today, 1 step forward 2 steps back. The problem cylinder got hotter and it ran better, but still about 50-60 degrees lower than the other 3 at about 145, but I did get the carbs to sync with 10 inches of vacuum. Now the 2 steps back, I either adjusted a float too high or it is stuck:doh:. The starter clutch is done for. I bought this thing off of ebay and replaced it this past April and it has nothing but driveway starts on it.

Thanks for the offer and I will let you know. BTW I have no problem with a "girl wrench" or anyone for that matter as long as you can do the job.

I did end up replacing the coils, and it appears I have continuous spark on all 4 cylinders, but still had the same issue. I already have the carbs out and there was an issue in that carb. I ended up changing the jet block and the float in that carb and I also rechecked all the float levels. I'll reinstall them tomorrow, fingers crossed.

I'm using a gauge I bought from Harbor Freight. I will borrow one from a parts store that loans tools and see if I get different readings. I will also be going thru the carbs again. The left front cylinder is very slow heating up and never as high as the other 3.

Yes I did.

I am running Shinkos now, the 777HD on the rear and the 777 up front. I have over 7000 on the rear and about 4000 on the front and neither show hardly any wear and I love the way they feel stable at fully loaded high speed and tight and sure in the twistiest roads.

Now the fuel pump is not working. Which one is the fuel pump relay? Tomorrow I will connect the pump directly to the battery to be sure

I did a compression check today and got 120 psi on each cylinder. Should I continue or call this a loss?

Yes I did do this with no change in RPMs.

I bought a compression tester today and in the safety information was this paragraph "The warnings, precautions, and instructions discussed in this manual cannot cover all situations that may occur. The operator must understand that common sense and caution are factors, which cannot be built into this product but must be supplied by the operator." You would think that this didn't need to be said, but we know different.

I did trim the wires, but I will change the later. I am also in the process of changing the coils. If this dosen't fix my problem the I'll pull the carbs again

Got another issue. The tach, temp and volt gauges all quit working. Where is their common failure point?

My problem seems to be an ignition issue. I start out with all 4 cylinders firing, but sometime while I'm trying to sync the carbs 2 quit firing and it's never the same 2. But so far the right front one hasn't been one in fact the temp I get is usually 250-300 degrees. Have tried 5 yes 5 different TCI's including the one from my daily driver and an igntech one all with the same results. I am lost at what to do next. Any thoughts. Thanks

Have you cleared your browser cache? This will delete your automatic login.

The neck of the tank is damaged from when the cap wouldn't come off, so the cap just sits atop the opening to keep things out. Changing the tank is on the list of things I need to do, but if the petcock or trash in the tank is my issue I guess I'll do it sooner.

It's on the center stand.

This is what I did today. I started the bike (no choke) it idled at 1k and had 4 inches vacuum. The fuel gauge was flicking between 1 and 2 bars. I didn't want to shut it off and it not restart so I put gas into the tank while it was running and as I did the RPMs increased to 2500. I turned the idle screw down to 1000 rpms and got just under 10 inches vacuum and good throttle response. So I'm guessing the screens on the petcock are dirty. To be sure I am going to let it run down again and see what happens.

I'll give this a try. Thanks

I'm using vacuum gauges. Thanks for the offer I'll let you know.