djh3

I use something like S100 or bike brite. Spray down cold engine etc and spray off. For the faring etc with the speakers I just wipe off with a micro fiber towel. I dont spray water directly at them either.

It certainly could be the bushing for the rear shock. I have not had one out completely, but I did take the linkage out of mine a year or 2 ago. From what I remember the bushings are rubber with a metal sleeve that goes inside of that busing and then the bolt goes thru that. To get at both is going to be a real PIA. There used to be some stuff made by CRC that was actually made for Ford upper control arm bushing for the squeak. But it was temporary at best. You could try to get some silicone spray on them and maybe that would help. It is such a confined space to get to you really have to work to get the shock out.

Jeff I sure hope with the price they are paying for scrap you aint just throwing the chips away. Its all clean steel and should give you a decent price.

Louver the plate like the hoods back in the 60's

I under stand Jeff may be sending you something......err umm air mail so to speak.

Na Na Na ya cant get me:rotf:

OK my horn showed up today. For mounting this is what I did. Simple fast and effective. The horn comes with a 3" piece of metal on the back to mount. Actually it was 3 thin pieces of metal, bolted to the center of the horn. So I loosened the center bolt holding the strips on. I got the bolts for the OEM horn and put them in the strips after spreading them in sort of a "Y" configuration. Then snugged up the center mounting bolt. Tightened up the mount bolts to frame and connected the wires. 10 min tops.

My race car use to get hung up once in awhile loading/unloading. I finly decided to just jack the nose of the trailer up and that was the end of it. Personaly I think he was board and wanted to play with tools.

Larry, with the clearance issue already at hand I dont know if I would bend the front lip of the plate down. If it did hit, man that could get ugly quick. what about a piece of alum bet down and maybe 4-6 pop rivets to the plate. That way if it did clobber something it would be more apt to knock the rivets out of the alum strip then stop you dead on the upload or something.

Looks good. Now I'm sure you know that once you have it built we allways think of things and ways to improve our creations. For cooling I think you could cut/drill some pretty fair sized holes in the sheet metal to gain some cooling. With the ground clearence being the issue I guess there probably is not a way to make a bend or attach a "scoop" downward to catch air.

Nice looking place Mike. Hmm looks like an open lot next door too.

That bracket looks as though it moves them down say 1/2" and forward also. Is that rite? I use a long 6mm ball allen.

Well I would have to say the $30 bucks is a lot easier to choke down then $100. Say does the $30 one require running wires etc. I would think it does being it has a volt meter and battery condition.

Here is an idea you might want to check out. My son got on this kick a couple weeks back he wanted to paint the wheels on his car. He had seen a video on you tube and asked me if I had ever heard of plasti dip. I told him yea we use to dip pliers etc in a can of it years ago. Well I guess they make it in a spray now and the rage is spraying your wheels. So being it is a plastic and must be at least semi-pliable what about that?

I got rid of all my Chevy tools. Well I kept the persuader and the metric adjustable wrench. I need to quit working on my sons Volvo. I'm really growing to hate that car.

Last year I was in Leesburg and saw a Venture with a thermometer in the lower corner of the windshield. Looked something like this from autozone.

I think the water bottle he is talking about is the coolant reservoir which is under the seat in the center. Probably need to take off both side covers and then the center piece. Which is secured by a Phillips head screw hidden under some vacuum lines. Then work it out one side or the other. Then a couple 10mm head bolts and you can get the tank out so you might actually be able to see something.

I just used the 3/4" P clamps from hardware store. Easy, cheap and no fuss. P clamp around the back saddlebag rail, 1/4" x 20 x 1/2" long? bolt and your done. I used some stainless steel hose clamps to clamp the mufflers. There are some "regular" clamps that are kind of over sized to cover up the gap. I wanted to get them on and try them out. Check out here for the P clamp mount.

Thats why the LEO's dont like tinted windows either. Also the clowns put them tinted lenses on the brake lights and you cant tell in daytime if they even work half the time.

Yup I did hear about the conflict between the 2 different rally's. So close together and somewhat overlapping. More sport bikes on the latter and zoom zoom up and down the streets etc. So the stories pretty much match.

Thats kind of what I just experienced with my horn. It would push enough volts you would get a reading but the horn wouldnt work. But a relocation would be good, but I dont know where you would move it without a lot of wiring change. Sure is not any room under the seat.

No problem. It really is a crappy place to put it. Not only is it hard to get to but the road dirt, corrosion etc seem to take its toll on it. Also mine the plastic connector piece with the 4 or 5 wires was brittle. I think Joe @ cycle terminal has the connector block should yours self destruct. But I didnt know that when I took mine apart. Hmm Now I know what I can do with the old motorcycle tube from my other bike. Make a semi-water resistant sleeve.

Myrtle Beach Bike Week It is listed as "the grand strand" I had heard also the city of MB pretty much threw the rally out. Passed laws concerning helmets in city limits, noise and loitering laws. So a nearby community said come on down.

Well sort of. The Main fuse is actually maybe 6-7" below and aft of the fuse box. The main fuse is behind the passenger left side foot board. It gets a lot of road spray and junk being it is not protected in anyway. When I took mine apart the plastic block broke in two. So now it is held together by a couple tye wraps.

Jeff so far aint nothing easy for me. Had 10.3v at the "power" wire from battery supply. Also relay had anywhere from 9v to 11.7 depending on which terminal you checked. Took relay out of the pic and pluged in OEM horn it worked. Plugged in relay and OEM horn nothing. Hmm So back to troubleshooting power etc to relay. Power checked somewhat good although voltage was lower than 11 in some spots. Cleaned ground up, still no good. By now even the "good" voltage was dropping. I guess with radio on etc it was draining battery. Swapped to a new relay again, oops a wire felt sort of loose in a connector. So I just changed it out to be sure. Removed seat to put battery charger on it. While depressing button to check voltage I looked up towards battery (the horn is wired in on a aux fuse block) I se a sort of illuminating glow when button is pushed. HMM So I pull the fuse and you can see where it has been burning the electrode in that fuse. So it was arching across enough to send like 9v or something across but wouldnt sound either horn. I have yet to find any reason for the fuse to go. Swapped back to old relay and it wouldnt sound horn, so for me that says its junk. So clean ground (dont know if this had anything to do with it or not) New connector on side of relay sending power to horn, and a new relay also a fuse. Now front horn works. Still no rear horn. Sorry so long winded and not really trying to hijack thread either. 4/9/14 Rear horn had a connector broken off in the relay holder piece. Geeze..........