djh3

Last time I sent a message took him a few days to get back.

You can sort of tell from the video where the pilot is looking. Just like riding on the bike. He is looking where he wants to go. I'm sure he is keeping tabs on the wingtip. So I wonder how much of their "practice" is now on a simulator. I know something like a 1/3 of our cargo aircraft training when I was in in the late 90's was transitioning to sims. It was a major fuel cost saver.

Does this help? How about this. Dang this Google thing is wonderful.

The positive on the starter solinoid you will probably have to use some breakfree to get it loose without damaging something.

Looks kind of like something Rupp built years ago. Boonie bike I think they called it. Might have been a benneli. Once upon a time I saw something about the Russian military using bikes like this.

I think the first valve check/adjustment is important to get by say 35K. Here is my reasoning. Yamaha says 26K. We all know that most specs set by manufacture are on safe side to prevent liability. Same as the oil change interval, I think that can be pushed out to 5-5500 miles. So within reason checking the valves by 35K would give them time to "seat" so to speak and would give you a good indication of where your at. You could go longer but if they are bad it could result in a burned valve. Just my thoughts.

The main lead goes all the way down to the "main fuse" down on the left side behind the left floorboard. youll have to take it off the gain access if you want to clean it up. The ground is on the right side sort of by the horn on top of the trans.

"New Venture" Do you have inside information the rest of us havent heard yet?

+1 on the valve adjustment. Not that it would cause the problem, but you could burn a valve if they are out. Also while your that far along (you would be surprised how much you have to take apart to do valves) you might as well put plugs in it. Seafoam is a goo dplace to start on the miss/slow acceleration.

So it sounds nothing like the cat draging its claws down the chalkboard like some before mentioned makes?

Muaymendez1 Try something like this. I bought a couple different styles and types. they need to have about 25% Polyester. Moisture wicking drawers will make a difference. They make some in bike magazines with padding in the butt also, those will most likely be spandex type material. Also some Monkey Butt Powder in the trunk/saddle bag is a good thing to carry.

YEA that was my though to on the fuse. I have read that some fellow riders have elected to relocate the fuse to a more accessible area. Mostly by the main fuse box. But heck if you moved it under the fender it would be just about as easy to get on the road if you were broke down. I wonder what engineer laid that out? In my 40 some years of working on things mechanical a bad ground is probably 70% the cause of an electrical woe.

Awe shucks not this weekend. Have a Relay for Life event in Wauchula this weekend for wifes work. So will not see it this year.

My problem with the ride on would be I already have dyna beads in the tire.

I love it. The Cross Country and the Vision believe it or not are about the only bikes I would consider trading my 09 for. They just simply ride great and handle very nice and light for a big bike. I was real close to a vision before the RSV. But we just really worried about the actual capacity of the bags and trunk. The CCT is better than the RSV or at least equal I think.

Your probably good to go. If its up and running. Like you said your not going to blast it until the wires melt, so with interment taps I should think your good.

I suppose I could go HD but that would be like being a lemming. I dont think I have ever been a crowd follower. Drag racing everybody was a chevy guy, I ran my Ford. Oval track racing guys again were bow tie. We ran MOPAR. The Victory just is a nice fit for me, its a plus its american made and NOT from Milwaukee. Nothing against Wisconsin, they do have good cheese.

I sure wouldnt throw it out. I have not had any bad experience with a plug of any type so far. If your not all fuzzy feeling with the plug defiantly patch it.

I just was notified that because I had surgery once they cant do it again. So my choice is injections or fuse the joint. I'm not a big fan of the fuse idea. Dont know which would hurt worse, the pain I have in my back and leg or the injections. Good luck I hope it works out for ya.

Send me a pm or e-mail and I'll get you some installation instructions and order info. If you can get the seat and gas tank off your in business. Its plug and play.

If its drawing more than 10 amp YUP. And my experience is the fuse that goes inthe multimeter is not cheap.

Sounds as though maybe the helmet is not fitting correctly possibly. I have the factory windshield and also a shorter one, and the boss has not complained about either and she wears a Bell Mag 8

OK I use to have a site you copied the URL into the signature place. Now It appears I am using http://www.epgsoft.com/VisitedStatesMap/VisitedStatesMap.php You fill out your states, hit enter and it takes you to a page with your states traveled. You copy the picture to your computer and then edit it so it is within the format required. Then go to user CP and edit signature youll see a spot to insert it. There ya go clear as mud

Maybe what is trying to be explained is, even though you have ground at the compressor, it is not enough so to speak for the amount of amps being used. Just for giggles connect and extra ground to the bolt on top of the trans if your working on that side of the bike where the right side OEM was. I just went thru horn He!! on mine. Ended up being a combo of things to include a bad connector @ the relay. I would say 30a for the horn would be a bit much. But if its on a dedicated feed thru a relay its feasible.

Yea guys thats my usual plan of attack. KISS Start with battery, check volts and connections. Then work my way to the main fuse. When mine went bad it absolutly stunned me. Like I said I had just got off a 3K plus mile trip and never so much as had a slow start. Walked out to go to the store and nothing. Took me 2 days almost to figure it out. Where the main fuse is located it get some pretty nasty things thrown at it. The main power cable runs down there to the starter solinoid also. When you do get it corrected you still may want to consider the by-pass realy, and especially if the plug under the tank is burned up. Check this thread out.