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I bought some Bates I think 6" side zip jobs a few months back. Pretty comfortable. Dont know about how waterproof yet.

We Have a couple around here I think called a Stallion or something like that. Its got A/C for cripes sake!!

Check your battery connections. Give them a good cleaning. To include down on the block and the solenoid. Corrosion will allow the lights etc to work, but not supply enough draw for starters. you mentioned when you jumped it it started. So the cables got a good connection from the booster.

So where would that put the Boss hogg trike thing? Chevy v-8 and 3 wheels?

I guess thats what I get for using the tablet every now and then. It dont always put down what I want. Desktop at least does spell check. But if its the wrong word and spelled correct, it dont tell you that. lol

Here is a Harbor Freight page with meters. The $6 meter will probably do anything you need to. The one thats $25 is sort of what I have in a Craftsman. I think for most of what you would do, Volts AC/DC, OHMS, your probably good with that. I dont think I have ever used anything more than that on my fancy meter.

Fenders pretty easy. My little home built that the fellow made for me. He used like a 20" plastic round tub of some sort and cut it in half and mounted over the tires with a few rivets. nothing says they got to be metal right?

Yea the second gens have "gas bubble" issues when filling to the tippy top. if I am on a trip and want to stuff every drop it has to bubble up a few times to get gas up around the lip of the cap area.

Mine had springs. I think one maybe a leaf and half and like 8" tires. Pulled nice put some of them Tx and La roads bounced it pretty good, even loaded.

I was thinkin same thing. The one I had years ago with springs seemed to bounce alot. We have tractor supply here in Fla, fleet and farm is like it up north. They carry some trailer parts. Looks to have a nice piece of box tube there to mount up springs.

These type connectors are where we talk about putting dielectric grease in. It is a sealer of sorts to keep out moisture and thus corrosion. I suggest cleanning that connector, and the rest of them and putting some grease in there. Couple of those connectors are under the fairing on right side as sitting on bike. I will bet you could clean your talk switch up on handle bar and grease it and you would be in bussiness.

So what exactly is this part they are telling you is bad? is it the drive shaft it self outside the bike? That is pretty easy to take apart and I would thnk any cometant shop could press a u joint in. I agree on checking the splines and drive pins. Maybe they are dry and causing the noise.

The are wired on their own switch thru the same relay the oem passing lights are on. I have since discovered that wasnt a great idea as the passing lights have to be on for these to work also.

I added some CREE 35w jobs down on the foot gaurds or whatever you want to call them.

As a general rule of thumb for me anywho. Anything I add or plan too, I stay as far away from altering the bike-car-truck whatever. Maybe this comes from trading vehicles in to much when I was a GI and burned thru cars every couple years. I will make a bracket/mount to adapt said product to my application, but try to leave the vehicle unmolested.

Looka to much like the 1970 something model a fellow had in the club I belonged to in Oklahoma. Not everything from the 70's is cool and grrovy an needs to come back. Remember disco and platform shoes? I rest my case.

You will need a 2x4 or suitable substitute to "level" out the bike on the side stand to check correct level of oil. Put the board under the kickstand, drain oil. Change filter. Last change I used a mobil1 M110. Purolator was popular but changed the design and now they will not work. There is a thread around about the problems with some of the filters we like to use other than the Yamaha one. Shell rotella T6 for a synthetic oil is popular if you want syn oil or the rotella t5 I think is the dino oil. Any oil that has a JSAMO rating is OK for wet clutch. The T^ is like $20 a gallon at Wally World. On the right side of the engine (forward and lower) there is a site glass. Do not fill more than half way when your all done withe service. It blow excess oil in to the air box and then it will make its way all over the top of the engine eventually. I think about 3.2 qt with a filter is what is recommended.

I can tell you that while building the by-pass relays, there have been several times I get one started and then I get the "oh @#$%" and have to un-solder the wires. Partially why I changed my assembly process.

Make sure if both ends are closed IE have a connector on them, be sure to put your heat shrink on first to eliminate having to go over a connector or take one apart.

Allways had good luck with this stuff cleaning carb parts. +1 on the old nuts and bolts rattle around clean method. Will knock a lot of the stuff loose and get out. Then you need something to soften up the rest and get it mobile to get out of tank. As far as the vent not getting clogged. Find a wire that will fit in and push in the tube. When coating is done you can just pull it out.

OH boy AN FB6 with woodgrain inserts like the old station wagons.

Nah Speedo is meerly a suggestion of aprox speed. I know mine reads about 3-4 mph less than gps. So round figures I go five over. So far no problems.

And folks think a 1700 voyager is hot under you. Ha

Yup And your supposed to run several large glasses of water thru it rite after you change also to get any loose bits of charcoal or whatever they use in them out too.

Ya know my mom use to have a block of bees wax in her sewing box. I know partly she used it for marking material. but come to think of it I bet she used it on some zippers too.