Prairiehammer

Welcome to the forum and here's to more interaction. Enjoy your new Venture and keep coming back to find other things to make the Venture "yours".

Same question... You do realize this is intended to work with fuel injection, not carburetors? Your Venture has carburetors, no ECU, etc..

Did we really have 6241 users online back on October 27th? Seems like that is unlikely; perhaps a glitch/bug? There are currently 54 members and 242 guests. Most users ever online was 6,241, 10-27-2013 at 09:21 PM.

Six weeks. But I had the 1990 for more than 11 years.

The factory paint codes for the 1989 XVZ1300 in maroon are: Primary: "Graceful Maroon"= 0R0 Secondary: "Miyabi Maroon"= 0JY Primary is the Saddlebag Lid. Secondary is the Saddlebag bottom. But, good luck finding any touch-up paint for the above codes. You certainly can try Color Rite, but they don't have all the Yamaha colors. Edit: Color Rite does have listing for the Miyabi Maroon! http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00jy-miyabi-maroon-mym-1853.cfm And here is their listing for the Graceful Maroon: http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ro-graceful-maroon-grm-1825.cfm

http://www.ferodo.com/en-gb/AboutUs/Our-Company/Pages/default.aspx

Why yes, yes, I do. Do you also know what has happened to the MTA nee VTS since that organization changed from a Venture exclusive club to an all inclusive club? It is pretty much dead.

ewww~

Good luck, Larry. "Hear's" to a successful implant.

Sandy, you KNOW we don't need no stinkin' turbo to spank them thar Harleys. Now, those Second Gen guys may have a different opinion/need.

I appreciate the responses. I see that I failed to note in my OP that the spring came out with the pushrod. Yes, Mike, I saw that spring BEHIND the dust boot, but in my case it was OUTSIDE the boot. So Earl, should the SPRING jump out too? Should it not be captured by the dust boot?

Yep, I've seen both. But, both are rather distant. What model do you have? Would you post a pic of the interior? Not much in the way of interior shots from Bushtec nor from any of the classified ads.

I was a "draft induced" enlistee with a delayed enlistment of October '72. I ETSed in October '75. I didn't take advantage of the GI Bill and I don't regret it.

I do check various classifieds internet sites frequently. Bushtec made their trailers in California at one time. That may be why there seem to be more on the West Coast than in the Midwest? But, it is rather impractical to buy a trailer so far away. As an aside: Folks sure seem to be very proud of their 15 year old Bushtec's.

These are the proper length (5.75") for our Ventures and the Goldwings. The PO managed to get the left grip on fully, but failed on the right grip. I don't know why. Maybe he put the right grip on the left side first, only to discover that the smaller left grip was too tight on the throttle tube and he ran out of time and the epoxy cured enough to prevent further installation.

She probably walked away muttering something about "young people nowadays"... Just saying, one young whipper-snapper to another.

Thanks! This "young whipper-snapper" (61½ years old) needed that ego boost.

WTB: Bushtec Turbo+2. Black is preferred, but if the price and location are good, well, you know.

Brian, your "seniority" is showing again. I don't have a RSV. The troublesome grip is on my 1991. But, it is OK, I still appreciate the help.

Congratulations, Bob. And that Dart trailer looks almost like mine (used to be).

That method works for conventional grips, but these heated grips consist of a soft rubbery compound cemented to a RIGID tube that contains the heating element. One can not work any tool between the rigid internal tube and the motorcycle's throttle tube. And the outboard end of the heated grip is closed, precluding attempts to break the epoxy loose. And at $58 per grip from Hot Grips, I am trying valiantly to save the grips. See above. There is no way to inject air between the grip and the throttle tube. What little void MAY have existed before being glued and installed was filled with impenetrable epoxy.

I did heat it internally, note that I had the grip heater running (direct wired to a deep cycle trolling motor battery). Nothing happened after 25 minutes, so I added some external heat in addition to the internally generated heat.

None, Brian. I tried heating with a heat gun (1500 watt) while running the heater in the grip, but there was no movement or degradation of the epoxy. I did succeed in softening the grip's outer surface to the point of leaving weaving impressions from the shop rag I was using to protect my hands as I attempted to elicit some movement. My next attempt is going to involve removing the grip/throttle tube from the bike and immersing the whole thing in boiling water. If that fails, the grip and throttle tube are going into a 250º oven. I have contacted Hot Grips™ support via email, but they have not replied.

Recently, I removed the clutch lever to clean and lube the various pivots and the clutch switch. As I removed the lever the pushrod fell out. I thought nothing of it and continued with the task at hand and reassembled everything with out any issues. Later, while reading another member's thread about the clutch operation, someone mentioned that the push rod will remain in the master cylinder bore. Mine fell out, so I became curious as to why my push rod literally jumped out of the master cylinder as I removed the lever. I looked in the parts diagram to observe the correct assembly of the push rod and noted that none of the diagrams show a spring on the push rod, yet my assembly had a compression spring installed on the longer shank of the push rod. This spring acts to keep the push rod against the brass bushing and apparently keeps the lever pushed out away from the grip. Perhaps it also ensures that the switch plunger is properly depressed while riding, thereby ensuring the cruise control functions properly. It seems obvious now that the spring is a work around for some deficiency in the clutch lever assembly. How deep is the hole in the brass bushing supposed to be? If the push rod receiving hole in the bushing is worn deeper than new, then the push rod will lose some of it's effective travel and the lever will not be pushed forward enough to depress the cruise control switch. The spring that is installed would act to take up this slack, maintaining proper switch contact. The cruise control works and I have not had any issues with it inappropriately disengaging. My question: should I leave the spring installed?

Steve, I'm trained as a draftsman (in 1960's/1970's). Manual drafting. It's hard to translate pen and paper drawings to CNC, though.