Vonwolf

The restrictors I'm using are 1/8" they're about the smallest I could find and they did very little to stop the bouncing, I'm going to try a valve from a fish tank supply store hopefully they'll have valves that are smaller and easier to tune

I tried a 1/8' restrictor with no luck the gauges just kept bouncing so I tried the large valves and as flyinfool pointed out they were a tad bit aggressive, it was basically they were on or off, very little middle ground. I think they got me close, but I still had many undesirable noises, backfire, popping and all so it's off to the pet store maybe they might have something that work

That's a good idea thanks, I'm not really confident with this unit. I tried to use it today but to get the needles to stop bouncing I just about had to shut the valves off completely to the point I was hardly getting any vacuum showing at all. I got them close to each other and the motor was running pretty well, but it was popping when I revved it up and let off the throttle. I know I'm getting spark to all the cylinders but I don't think all 4 are firing all the time because the exhaust pipes are different temperatures. I'm not real confident with this synchronisation and that could be the problem, but the TCI is looking kind of rough, I don't know much about what they control but I'm a little suspicious of it. I know nothing of this bikes history so god only know when the valves were last adjusted and that could be a reason the vacuum is bouncing so bad, I think I have my work cut out for me.

Here is a picture of my synchronizers with some valves I got from Home Depot, they're old, dirty and rusty, but they do work. I think the valves will calm the needles down, I managed to break one already and I'm having a rough time finding 1/4" hose clamps so I'm still in the theoretical stage. One way or another I'm going to get these things working today I don't care how many Auto Parts Joints I have to go to, I finally got my Truck running right so now I can put all my energy in the bike. I might ditch the Homer Valves and try to find those restrictors vidioarizona posted back in post #7 , I have to put some miles on my truck to make sure the codes don't come back anyway. Thanks for all the suggestions and cowpuc I just might visit some pet stores as well as a backup to a backup plan.

This is probably very obvious, but I had to learn it the hard way, have you put the airBox and Filter back on? My bike will barely idle on full choke without the airboxes. I put the box assembly back on and the bike runs pretty good I just have to sync the carbs and hope the backfiring goes away

I had a hard time with my front breaks too, I could not get them to stiffen up at all same as you. I was thinking I had my seals in wrong so I shot some compressed air up the bleeder and the break was solid as a rock, that gave me a strange idea. If air worked going backwards maybe I could pump the brake fluid the same way, I filled an oil can with break fluid and with the top off the revivor I hooked the oil can to the bleeder valve with a rubber vacuum hose, pulled the brake lever in and filled the line up backwards. I don't know why but it worked, I had to do my clutch the same way I haven't gotten to the back breaks yet, but I'll probably have to do them like that too.

Thanks for all the suggestions If I would have seen them I probably would have saved some Money. I ended out going to Homer and getting 1/4" Quick Release Valves, with these I can just restrict the vacuum till it stops bouncing all over, well at least that's the plan I hope to get a chance to try them out tomorrow. The only flaw in my plan is the 1 gauge that doesn't bounce at all, I tested it on Carb #1 and #2 they both were steady so there's something strange going on with that gauge. I just hope it gets me close

I think you're right I need some kind of valve to restrict the vacuum and calm the gauge down. The one that does work kind of throws a wrench in this theory so I do have to switch them around and see if the gauge is bad or everything else is bad, the fun never ends

I finally got my '87 running and am trying to sync up the carb's, but I'm having problems. I'm using an old 4 vacuum gauge setup and the no 1 carb is steady, but the other 3 are bouncing all over. I think I've ran into this problem before, but I'm not sure, I think there needs to be some kind of valve in each line to act as a dampener, but I'm not really sure and the number 1 carb holding steady really throws me off? I suspect the valves need adjusting but again I really am not sure, I've owned the bike for 6 years yet I have probably only put 25 miles on it. if anyone can tell me what I'm missing again I'd be grateful

I just realized something about Gary"s first picture, My choke assembly did not even have those 2 "E" clips the spacer was one of the leftover parts, but I never saw those clips. It looks like I might not of had a correct setup to start out with. I'm in Cleveland right now, my Mom's getting a procedure done, but when I get home I'll have to see how much of a mess I have to clean up. I live in Florida so maybe I might not even need a choke but I doubt it

Yep the Pictures sure do Help and as soon as I get back home I'll see if I can find my spare parts, it might be something else that's the problem all that was left over was a couple thin plastic washers. the sad thing is off come the carbs again, it's getting kind of old

Thanks Gary; I hope I can figure out where I went afoul

I removed my carburators to clean them up anf replace the needle valve and seats. Naturally after I put thigs back together I had the dredded extra parts left over. I know they are off the shafts for the choke assembly's and I didn't make a drawing of how they should go back together so now my choke doesn't disengage very well, I know it's close to correct, but I obviously have a problem. Does anyone have a diagram on how the spacers, bushings, springs and whatever goes backtogether or maybe done the job right the first time and draw a diagram themselvse like I should have done in the first place? Thanks

I have the same problem I identified the cylinder that was out with an infrared thermometer, I pulled the plug, put it in the boot, grounded it out and started the motor unintentionally. I only wanted to kick it over to see if I got spark, but it fired right up and shocked the hell out of me no matter where I held the plug wire I got zapped. I'm guessing I'm getting a little of the spark bleeding through the wire so it looks like it's time for new wires and boots.

The Vents for my 87 are long gone, I found the 2 pc. chrome ones Yamaha sold, but I'd like to have vent's. It sounds like a great idea, but cost would be the final word

That's it exactly. I knew I had to be using the wrong search words I tried Radiator Drain Assembly, Radiator Bypass, thermostat housing drain assembly everything I could think of with no luck so Thank's Prairiehammer your a life saver.

I don't carry, I don't need that kind of trouble. I'm not sure if I really want to, I have a bit of a temper I don't want to blow anybody away. Beleave me I know there are time's when gun carry is appropriate, but I know how fast it happens unless I opened the door in a combat ready position at all times a gun would have done me no good it was in a blink of the eye, I'm not nor ever have been that paranoid. I have always had guns and I always will, it would be a sad day when only Cops and Crooks can have guns. I still struggle with the thought of should I or shouldn't I send in the $140 and get a CCW, I'll probably get it someday especially now that I know about that Insurance, I guarantee you'll need it if you show a gun in public everyone's an attorney nowadays.

I'm not sure if this is the right place for this, but I don't see a part wanted section. Anyway I need the Radiator Drain Assembly that plugs into the thermostat housing, mine's getting a bit thin and as long as I have the bike apart I'd like to change it out. Either I don't know the correct search words for this assembly or all those Ebay stores that buy old bikes and part them out like Pinwhal just throw this part out, but I find this unlikely I think those stores squeeze every dime out of the bikes they can. So if anyone has one of these or can give me the right search word I would be grateful

More Great News I just got the VMax starter that the Vendor swore was only a 2 Brush Starter. Before I was going to even think about returning it I had to check it, low and behold it has 4 Brushes! Not returning this Baby and with the starter button mystery solved I could have it back together by the end of today. Except that I did a while I down there and disassembled the whole cooling system, a very good idea as it was a mess down there. So I'm still playing the waiting game for parts, but I'm much happier. Thanks again for all the help!

I want to thank all of you that took the time to try and get me through this mess and a big thank you to neil86 who took the time and called me, somehow getting it through my very thick skull that something didn't sound right with my solenoid, be it new or used. It turns out that somehow I had the Pos and Neg posts reversed, I have no idea how I did it and I feel like a complete fool, but I unbolted the battery cables spun the solenoid around 180 deg, hooked them back up, grounded the blue/white wire to the battery and I heard the sweetest sound I've heard in a long time. The solenoid "clicked", it was great! I still have problems with the relays and all but by now I could fix that stuff with my eyes closed, I mean I drove the bike for about a year with the solenoid in backward 's now that takes talent right? I'm sorry for burning up so much bandwidth and everyone's time with such a dumb mistake hopefully I'll think things through a little better.

Congratulations for your Son getting such a goo Job that's more than half the battle right there. Now the Snow, well you guys have to be accustomed to that it would be much worse news for me, I haven't seen much of that since I left Michigan in '79 and that was one reason I got out of there, there just wasn't enough snow to enjoy it, just black slush on the side of the roads.

I checked it unplugged and the D1&D2 circuits both had .600 ohmx2k, I don't have a 1k setting and the R circuit had 0 ohm. So the continuity does only go 1 way but it's not infinite it has some resistance and haveing no resistance at the R circuit where 8ohm is indicated. I have no idea how this impacts the starting circuit, but a new one's on its way so I just have to wait and see

Thanks that's another thing that's not real clear in the manual. I'll have to pull it off and test again. I thought I was on to something, this might leave me scratching my head. I've got one 750 Yamaha buried in the back yard if I don't figure this out soon this Venture will be right next to it.

The 3rd circuit had resistance within spec, but 1 and 2 had continuity pos/neg or neg/pos with the ignition on or off. The manual wasn't real clear on key on or off and did not identify the circuits and it says nothing about a second diode, but they seem to be known for leaving things out. They might think you should just know this stuff iff you're messing with it, they're wrong.

I had a Cop friend of my brothers install a A/C unit in my house on the side, he was telling me that "Granger" a huge industrial supplier of just about anything usually just throws returned items in their dumpster, without even checking them. He DD's there all the time and told me it perfectly legal, their dumpsters are right out front under a big light so I don't really feel like testing that statement, but he gets a lot of expensive tools, meters, all kind of things that are easily repaired out of them.