Donvito

I had some left over LEDs from the rear reflectors so put some in the side reflectors. Easy to remove and open up. If anyone wants, I can write up some instructions.

Tough luck. Hope you get problems solved and get to the keys. We took the bike down to Key West last February. Great scenery for riding. Have fun and be safe.

Would like that. What's up with the Wednesday night thing at Steak and lube? Where?

Thanks. Let me know if you decide to visit again.

Let me know. We live in Palm Harbor and would love to meet up. Thanks.

I used JB Weld to replace tabs. Still holding after about a year. Here's my post: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82111&highlight=tabs

Thanks for the info. I went back and reviewed the post about using heat and the reflector base was metal, not plastic like mine. I'll remove the heat advise. Thanks.

If you remove the lower reflector and separate one end, you may be able to slide a strand of LED lights through. There is a bulge on the bottom so would probably be better off sliding in about half way up. The waterproof reflectors are more rigid so should try them. I don't think it's possible with the upper reflector. Picture 4 shows the bulge so my middle row is just above it.

After years of wishing I had lights in my rear reflectors I decided to bite the bullet and install them. Since I don’t solder, it is completely solderless. If you can solder, you are probably better off soldering instead. I used information from some of the prior posts regarding this and I thank those that provided that information. Here is what I purchased: LED LIGHTS: I bought 5 meters of 5050 lights. I purchased the waterproof type but if I was doing it again, I would buy the regular lights. The reason being that the waterproof covering has to be removed at each connection which, although not very difficult, is tedious. If your housing is waterproof, waterproof lights are probably overkill. I purchased from Amazon and here’s the link: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7UWRCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com - 16.4 Feet 12V 300LED 5050 SMD IP65 Waterproof Flexible Lamp Light Strip (Red) -@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/517nmVSznqL.@@AMEPARAM@@517nmVSznqL[/ame] CONNECTORS: These are made to connect strands of LEDs together but you can cut off one connector to use as a power supply: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7M1PYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: ZITRADES 10x 10mm Wide Dual End Connector 2-Conductor Cable, Any Angle Twistable Wire for LED Single Color Strip Light by ZITRADES: Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51uta%2BhJybL.@@AMEPARAM@@51uta%2BhJybL[/ame] WIRE : I bought 25’ of 20 gauge dual wire which has a red and a black wire to match the connectors: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT1CEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: 20ga 25' Red/Black Hookup Wire 12V DC: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21WvGuQT06L.@@AMEPARAM@@21WvGuQT06L[/ame] PLUGS: I bought two plugs to enable removing the lower reflector and trunk. They are four wire connectors also in red and black. Just cut the wire and splice it in where needed. They will only plug together one way so you can’t reverse the wires when plugging it back in. My local Radio Shack had them in stock. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102435 INSTALLATION Remove the following parts: 1. Top Cover 2. Seat 3. Rear Lower Reflector – one acorn nut in each side bag. 4. Left side bag. Don’t forget to remove the directional light and wire. 5. Black plastic cover between side bag and seat The lower reflector comes apart pretty easy. I don’t have a heat gun but I tried a hair dryer which didn’t seem to help. You may want to try heat also. I just cut along the seams with a utility knife. Multiple passes along top and bottom. Then I used a small screwdriver to finish separating the halves. The ends are the most difficult as it’s hard to get to the connection. I left the upper reflector in place on the trunk and removed the red lens. This eliminated the need to cut through the tape which mounts it to the trunk and provided a stable work surface. This lens is more fragile than the lower unit. The connection is at the bottom so, because of the lip on the base, it is hard to get to it to cut through. Also, the small end pieces have to be removed first. Work from the ends and try to slide the knife or small screwdriver under the lens. If you do break the lens, when you repair it don’t glue the lens itself. Just fit it together and glue the lens to the base. WIRING Connect wires to either the battery terminals or to an unswitched terminal on the bike. Leave the wires long enough to provide some movement, about 2 to 4 feet. This is to test the connections on the LED strips before installing them. The LEDs can be cut at every third light. The place to cut is marked on it. If you have the waterproof type, you have to cut away the plastic covering from over the contacts. The LED strip will fit into the slot at the bottom of the connector and should be inserted until the contacts are under the contacts in the connector. Then just snap it together. They are a little finicky and may require multiple attempts to get the connection. I found that removing the tape from the bottom of the strip at the contacts helps. Just peel it back an inch or so. Videos are available to help with this process. The LED strips have a sticky back and can be placed in rows onto the base of the reflectors. I installed 3 rows with the center row for the tail light and the two end rows for the brake light. For the lower reflector, I just ground down an opening at the lower left corner using a dremel for the wires to protrude through. For the upper, I drilled a ¼” hole through a small hold already in place on the lower left end of the base and through to the trunk. On the upper reflector, place the connectors about an inch or so from the end. This will allow room for the wires and avoid placing a connector on the bump where the screw is attached. I just spliced and taped additional wire to the LED connector wires and ran the wires from the lower reflector along the wire for the directional and up to the wiring for the tail light. Just follow the wires from the tail light to the plug. Mine are yellow, blue and black and there are 6 coming from the light to the plug and 3 on the other side of the plug. I made my connections to the 3 wire side of the plug so I could still unplug the tail light for removal. Feed the wires from the upper reflector LEDs through the hole you drilled into the trunk. Splice additional wire and run it through the opening at the bottom of the trunk through which the trunk light wires are already running. I thought about using the trunk light wires for the tail light but, unfortunately, it’s unswitched so it’s hot all the time. Run enough wire to get to the tail light plug. On my bike, the blue wire feeds the tail light and the yellow is for the brake light and I just cut and spliced the wires in accordingly. I tested along each step of the way. As I added a wire, I tested the lights. The last thing I did was to install the plugs. These aren’t necessary but are handy to remove the trunk and lower reflector. I used duck tape to tape over the wires inside the trunk and my trunk bottom protector will help protect the wires. I wrapped the exterior wires with electrical tape. I haven’t permanently reattached the lenses to the base yet. I just taped the lower reflector to the base for now and didn’t install the upper reflector lens. I want to run the bike for a while to make sure there are no problems before permanently reattaching. In Summer in Florida I don’t ride much anyway. So you may want to do this towards the end of your riding season. Thanks to everyone who posted previously and let me know if you have any questions. PICTURES 1. Lower Reflector Separated 2. Items Needed (didn’t use the plugs pictured) 3. Plugs Used 4. Lower reflector LEDs installed 5. Upper reflector LEDs installed 6. Tail Light 7. Brake Light

Thanks Jeff. Can you describe how the trunk reflector is constructed? In Picture 2 it looks like the ends of the red part of the reflector are separate from the main piece but the black base is all one piece. Is that correct? You explained how to remove the reflector from the trunk and how to separate the two halves. I know some have said heat helped so I may try it. Now that almost 5 years have passed, have you had any problems and would you have done anything differently? Did you do the lower reflector also? That's where I'm starting as it's easier to get to so I can learn doing it. You suggested using a resistor for the running lights. Can you elaborate? where does it go?

Ordered a roll of LED's today. Decided to go with the 5050 with 60 lights per meter. Thinking about installing 3 rows of lights and using the center row for tail lights and the top and bottom rows for brake lights in both reflectors. Or, should I use the lower reflector for the tail light and the upper (trunk) reflector for the brake lights? I read Jeff's (Flyingfool) description about a controller and dimmer and that is way beyond me. So, I'm trying to keep it simple. Anyone have any advice?

Thanks. Which method did you use to open the reflectors? Then, how did you seal them afterwards?

Yeah, that was my original idea only with multiple lights. Currently, working on opening the lower reflector but it's already cracked and afraid of making it worse. So, thinking about using the indent behind the reflector to drill holes and install bulbs for the brake light. Thanks.

Thanks to all for the advice. I have read conflicting information regarding the best way to open up the rear reflectors. I think it depends on whether the reflectors are original or the replacement containing lights whether to use a heat gun or to use a blade. Someone used a small screwdriver and said it took several hours. Trying not to risk breaking the reflectors especially after checking the prices on ebay to replace them. I have also read the reflector on the trunk is very fragile. I'm also having trouble locating led bulbs that are short enough, including the base, to insert after drilling a hole. I thought I found what I needed on a boat site but realized the overall length is 1.2".

I want to install lights in the rear reflectors on an 87 without opening the reflectors. Thinking of drilling holes from the back and inserting bulbs. Before I order the bulbs, just wondering if anyone has done this or why it won't work. Also, would red or white lights be better. Thanks.

Beautiful machine. I have an 87 purchased new and I've been considering replacing it. But I love it, quirks and all. Many memories and good times. Congratulations for what you've accomplished. I love the style of these bikes. IMO, nothing looks as good. Your bike helps me lean more towards keeping it. Thanks.

I need two microphones and two lower wires. From Sierra, for J & M the prices are $70 for the microphone and $60 for the wires or $130 per headset. Looking at those numbers, probably better off buying new headsets. Considering IMC's for $85 but not sure of the quality compared to J & M. Anyone have an opinion.

I was able to determine, with Dion's help, that the problem with my intercom is the microphones. They are about 20 years old and are J & M HS-134. The speakers work in both headsets. Performed some exploratory surgery on one of the microphones. I have attached pictures showing what I found. I don't know the terminology but I'm wondering how the u-shaped piece attaches to the round piece? Or if the u-shaped piece was a circle originally and I lost the remainder when I cut open the housing. Has anyone repaired or replaced these things and where do you get the parts? Any info is appreciated as I don't know much about how it works. Thanks.

J & M headsets, 20+ years old. Wires are deteriorating. Need a new set but whether or not the built-in intercom is working will determine what I purchase. That's why I'm looking for someone nearby with a working set so I can test out mine.

My intercom's not working on an 87 VR. The earphones will play music but the intercom doesn't operate. Before I buy new headsets I would like to test it to make sure the headsets are the problem. I live in the Clearwater, Florida area so if anyone in the area has a pair of working headsets I would come to you to try them out. Thanks.

Here's a post I wrote with pictures to replace spark plug wires. Hope it helps. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81742&highlight=install+spark+plug+wires

Just got back from a 1000 mile ride over five days and wanted to let you know my fuel pump issue did not occur. As I had indicated, a voltage drop was causing the fuel pump relay not to engage the fuel pump. Here's what I did: 1. Cleaned all the connectors behind the headlight. 2. Cleaned the engine kill switch. 3. Replaced the fuse box with a new one from Skydoc. Thank you to everyone who provided advice. The good thing about a problem is the knowledge you acquire fixing it and the advice and support from people who have been there.

I won't but I'm hoping when I eliminate the wires attached to the battery and the other wires I've attached incorrectly and install them properly and clean up the connections at the fuse box I won't see the voltage drop. I read the ignition switch maintenance procedure and only want to do if absolutely necessary. I did trace the wires from the ignition and cleaned those connections also.

Thanks for the info. I removed and cleaned the stop switch (not impressed with the construction) and the problem is currently not happening. I installed the relay and reassembled the bike. I have a new fuse box arriving this week so will install that asap. So, for now, I am OK. And the knowledge I've gained about the pump system will enable me to make repairs on the road if needed. Thanks for the ignition switch offer but I will hold off for now. Thanks again, you guys are great.

Unfortunately, it isn't the main fuse. Same voltage as the battery while the voltage was 10 at the pump relay connection. So I guess I'll check the ignition next and the kill switch. Thanks.