Donvito

Two minor issues I want to address. My sidestand switch rubber cover is torn up. Has anyone replaced or repaired that piece? I'm replacing the starter motor wire soon. The original has a cover over the terminal which the replacement doesn't. Is there something that can be used to cover and protect this connection? Thanks.

So I guess leaving it disconnected won't hurt anything. My voltage meter was showing higher voltage with the engine running after I disconnected it. But, I also cleaned the connectors at the same time. Some of them were pretty bad. So, not sure which caused it.

Found this part while cleaning some terminals on the left side of the bike attached to the frame in front of the has tank. I think I installed it years ago to decrease static in the stereo. Doesn't seem to do anything so should I just leave it disconnected? It seems to put our more voltage without it if that's possible.

Thank you. That is great information. Now I know what I am looking for.

Thanks but there is a particular ground location I am looking for. The following quote is from another thread: On my '87, it originates from the neg batt cable as a smaller wire (12 ga?) piggybacked on the main ground, about 4 " from the battery it has a quick disconnect, but continues into the main harness and soon exits the harness to terminate at the coil mounting bracket, right behind the throttle cable cable junction box. On the left side of the frame. I tried to find it but not sure what to remove to access it. If anyone can help me it would be appreciated.

On the main ground cable near the negative terminal of the battery, a smaller wire comes off and goes to a connector and then continues into the harness. The schematic shows it grounding somewhere. Can someone tell me where it grounds and how to get to it? Also, are there any other ground locations I should be checking. Thanks.

Thanks for the advice but can you be a little more specific as to which type of silicone grease you use and how do you fill the rubber boot with it. Thanks.

I removed mine recently by removing the lowers, the radiator side cover, the side covers and the plastic piece on top of the front cylinders. That provided access to the two screws holding it on. And, as you said, the battery and battery box.

Thanks for the suggestions but I guess I wasn't clear. My switch is still working so I'm not looking for a used one at this point. I was wondering if there is anything that should be done to my switch to maintain it. I haven't seen any instructions on disassembling and cleaning that switch like I have for the other switches.

I can't find any info on cleaning or maintaining the sidestand switch. Since new replacements aren't available, except one on ebay for $100, I was wondering if there is a way to prolong it's life. Any advice?

About a year ago, I was having low voltage problems which would cause insufficient voltage to the fuel pump relay to run the pump. I cleaned a lot of connections, replaced the fuse box and cleaned the engine off/run (kill) switch and the problem went away for a year. I never used the switch to turn the bike off but always used the ignition key. Well, after reading some posts of the benefits of using the switch, last weekend I started using it on an overnight ride. The voltage problem returned. I was able to get it running and make it home but I have to fix this. I'm assuming the problem is related to the kill switch but I want to confirm this. I am looking for the best way to bypass the switch to see if that fixes it. Should I do it at the switch or is there a better place. I don't know where the wires from the kill switch go and if there is a connector that I can jump. The diagram shows the two wires ,R/W, from the switch going to a six way plug which I assume is behind the headlight. Is that correct? Then, what can I do to this switch, other than bypass it, to fix it or should I replace it. I can't find a new one so I would have to buy used. I know there is an excellent instruction in "read only" on cleaning this switch. The only part I'm not sure of is using dielectric grease on the contacts as it suggests. I didn't do that last time. Would it help? Thanks.

That's great! I just cancelled my order so I will pm you to work out details. Thank You.

Dion, thank you for the offer. I ordered a used replacement so hopefully it will solve my problem. If not, I'll contact you about your offer. The controller is good.

Thanks for the suggestion. I was able to buy one from Pinwall for less than $30. Hopefully, it works.

The jack for the passenger headset is busted up. I thought I could just use the connection under the seat but there are some wires connecting the headset and RC jacks so I would like to replace both jacks and the wires. I am attaching pictures of what I need so if anyone has one to sell I am interested. There is one for sale on ebay but it seems to have an extra connection that I don't have. Thanks.

I've owned the bike for over 25 years and I never knew that was there. Thanks for that info. I think Ram has something that will screw into that. That's a neat set up. Nice job!!

Yeah, but where Max and Randy have it is a really good location and pretty well protected from wind and rain while moving. However, thinking of some way to tether the bracket to the bike just in case. I was wondering what to use to lubricate the suction cup. Thanks for the Vaseline idea. I currently have two brackets on order and I have the sticky disc. I'll decide when I receive them and can check them out. Then I can figure out how to plug it in.

Nice. Any problem with the suction cup coming loose while riding?

Mine does operate, as Dion said, when I connect the power cable from my wife's Garmin unit to the mini usb port and, according to the specs on it, it is providing 4.75 to 5.25 VDC which is, what I thought, a USB port provided. Somehow it knows the difference. I guess I'll just leave the traffic cable in the car and buy another cable that I can wire into the bike. Thanks and I think I'm done.

Dion, do you have a 765 and if you do have you ever tried to operate it using a usb port?

Yes, I have the traffic cable with the black rectangle. Where do you plug your cable on the bike or is it wired in?

My old model came with a cable that plugs into the car's cigarette lighter. It will turn on when I start the car and turns off when I turn the car off. My wife's new model came with a similar cable, Neither unit will go into navigate mode when plugged into a usb port, they seem to think they are connected to a computer. My wife's power cable plugs into the mini usb on the gps. If I use her cable and plug it into my unit and plug it into the cigarette lighter, it works. Garmin sells a cable to wire it directly to a 12 volt source so that may be what I have to do unless someone has another idea.

When I installed lights in my trunk reflector, I left the reflector on the trunk and removed the lens. It gave me a solid surface to work on to install the LED's. I drilled a hole through to the interior of the trunk at the lower left hand corner to run the wires through the trunk. Here's what I did: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/first-generation-venture-tech-talk/88389-installed-leds-rear-reflectors.html I have since done the side bag reflectors and the small reflectors in the radiator side covers.

Wow, so many great ideas. Now I need to choose one. Does anyone have a problem viewing their screen in bright sunlight?

I'm not sure if a USB power supply will work with my Garmin. When I plug it into my car's USB port it doesn't start. Mine has the power supply through the cradle but it also has a mini usb port. If I use my wife's Garmin plug from her GPS to the mini usb jack on my unit, it will start up. I think it needs 5 volts. Do you know if it will work for my unit? If it does, it would be great because I also have a cigarette lighter on my bike that I could remove and install this power supply. I like having another usb for charging a phone or mp3 player. Thanks.