Donvito

Yeah. Sorry for the confusing post. It was backfiring with the NGK's and it's still backfiring with the E3's.

It idles dead on 1000. Synced the carbs after I changed the plugs this morning. Installed E3 plugs but it was back firing before with the NGK's.

Just changed the plugs and the ones I removed were a light grey color. Just synced the carbs also. Just did the valves last week also. The backfire has been happening for a while just can't seem to get it to stop. As I said, it doesn't backfire when the choke is partially engaged so that's why I thought it may be a lean mixture igniting in the exhaust.

That's what I thought originally but that doesn't explain why it stops when the choke is engaged.

My 87 VR backfires when coasting. Sounds more like a chirp, not too annoying but would like to stop it if possible. Seems to be coming from the left side. I tried running with the choke slightly engaged and that stopped it. So, I am thinking that I should turn out the idle screws to idle richer. How many turns out would be the maximum? Or, it's the coasting enrichment valve in which case I'll probably live with it until I do the carbs again. Any suggestions?

Thanks. I do like the aluminum look so I will try to restore that first and, if that proves to be too difficult or I don't like the finished product, will paint them. I knew it was gonna be a PITA but they come off easily so I'll just work on one at a time when I can.

I want to clean/polish the passenger foot rest assembly. The aluminum is tarnished or oxidized and I'm wondering what the best/easiest method of shining them up. Is it chemical, compound, or sandpaper? Then, what to use to protect them afterwards, clear coat or some type of wax. I'm attaching pictures. One is worse than the other for some reason.

Thanks. I have ordered a set of E3 plugs and I'm looking forward to installing them. Thanks for the advice.

Recently changed my plugs to non-resister, NGK DP8EA-9, because I read somewhere about them being less prone to fouling. My bike runs great but I also did a lot of other maintenance simultaneously. The non-resister plugs do not affect my radio. I read in a spark plug thread where someone recommended using iridium plugs NGK plug, DPR8EIX-9, but it is a resister. It stated that they weren't available in non-resister and I searched and couldn't find them. So, my question is about the pros and cons of using non-resister plugs. Should I stay with the non-resister or go to a resister iridium plug at my next change? Are the benefits of iridium worth the extra cost? If you've used them, what do you think? Thanks.

Those that said handlebar holder stud win. I'll hold another contest as soon as another piece falls off. Thanks for everyone's help. You guys are the best. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/images/smilies/322.gif

Doing a steering head adjustment this morning and found this piece. I had the handlebars, steering crown, upper fairing panels, left and right hoods and the upper ring nut removed. It resembles the cotter pin from the brake calipers but it's a little larger. Let me beat you to it, I know it's a quarter. Thanks.

If anyone has a new set of Sirius diaphragms that you would like to sell please pm me. It's for an 87 VR. Thanks.

Just found out that Sirius if out of diaphragms for my 87 VR. They told me 2-3 weeks but I also heard Sept. 28. Is there another company, JBM, that makes them for my bike? If so, has anyone tried them? What do you think, pros and cons compared to Sirius? Thanks.

Just received a refund for an order I placed. They are currently out of stock and they expect to have them in 2-3 weeks.

Thanks for that tip. Did what you said and the engine stalled so I guess the rear brake is working. Next I'll jack the front and spin the front wheel and try that one.

Well the problem was the master cylinder. Bought one on ebay, put it on and it worked immediately. Bled all 3 bleed screws, got all the air out and got a hard pedal again. It's good to be hard. Thanks for all the information. I learned a lot about how my rear brake system works. Don't know what I would have done without this site and it's "riders". Getting a set of E3's mounted Friday. I can't wait to get it back on the road.

Why did you take it apart and clean it? Was it causing a problem with your braking system and how did you know it was the cause? I believe some folks have removed the proportioning valve or at least removed the interior parts. If you have, how did it affect braking? Do you recommend doing that? Thanks.

How do I remove the proportioning valve? Are you saying to remove the inner parts and reinstall the housing? Can you elaborate on your instructions. Thanks.

Not sure I understand. You are saying the piston in the mc may be stuck. To free it I can apply air pressure at the caliper which would mean pushing air pressure back through the hose connecting the mc to the rear caliper. If this is correct, how do I attach the air hose to the brake hose? Also, does anyone have a picture of the internal parts of the mc or rebuild instructions for the mc with pictures? Thanks.

If that's the case, how do I free the piston?

Thanks for the advice. I have changed the brake fluid several times throughout the years as well as the clutch fluid and I have never had this happen. The brakes were working find until I bled the rear brake caliper. I depressed the pedal with the bleeder closed, opened the bleeder and saw the normal flow of fluid. While holding the pedal down, I closed the bleeder and released the pedal. When I pushed down to bleed it again the pedal traveled to the limit with no resistance. I tried bleeding the front left and the upper bleed valve and I get nothing, no fluid or air. I removed the hose going to the front brake from the master cylinder, put my fiinger over the hole and I felt nothing when I pumped the brake pedal. I also pressurized the fluid reservoir, opened the rear bleed screw and manipulated the pedal and no fluid or air came out of the bleed screw. I had a clear plastic tube attached to the bleeder with the end submerged in brake fluid while I did this. There was no way for air to enter the system. I'm thinking it's a problem with the master cylinder but I don't know how to test it. Is there a way?

When I depress the brake lever, there is no resistance whatsoever. The plunger just goes up and down. The level of fluid doesn't decrease. No fluid is evident at the bleed points including the top one by the triple tree. It seems like there is no fluid entering the chamber. I removed the piece on the master cylinder that the hose connects to and there was fluid in there. The small orifices seem clear. I don't know what else to do.

Disassembling the rear section in preparation for new tires so doing some pm while parts are accessible. Decided to bleed the rear brake so topped of the fluid in the reservoir, applied pressure to the pedal, opened the bleed valve (got the usual flow of brake fluid), closed the bleed valve and pushed down on the pedal again to bleed but no pressure at all. No fluid to the bleed. Thinking there may be a plug in the supply line, I removed the hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder, inserted a funnel into the hose and poured in brake fluid but still no pressure at the pedal. I guess I need to replace or rebuild the master cylinder but just wanted to get your thoughts. Brakes were working fine so just kicking myself in the ass for messing with it.

Thanks for the advice. Is it ccw to lean it? I thought it was cw to lean. I've been adjusting under the premise that unscrewing it made it richer. Could be where I messed up.

Carbs are synced. I recently did the carb cleaner soak and that really helped. It is running great except for the annoying chirp. So, I think I will start with the fuel mixture adjustment. Would you guess the mixture is too rich or too lean?