bongobobny

No, kept the stock location. You want to filter the fuel BEFORE it gets to the fuel pump. Now, auto gas may not be as bad as aviation fuel, but they have contamination issues big time!! We would get fuel valves in from the field with chunks of metal imbedded into the screen on the inlet...

Welcome home Brother, welcome home!!!

Yup, that's the critter, the Ignitech is cheaper setup though...

Well then there's your problem Thomas, yes they should be the same voltage on both sides of the connector, when connected. If you mean you were measuring the disconnected connector on the R/R side, you shouldn't have seen any voltage at all. The AC voltage comes From the Stator and travels down the wires thru the connector TO the R/R...

GGGGary, if you ever saw a picture of Condor's garage (It was once posted here) you would immediately completely understand his comment!!

As long as you guys don't try to pick each other's brains through the nose...

There are no relays under the seat. You may be hearing an initial click from the fuel pump though. The fuel pump relay is located along with the rest of the relays inside the front fairing sort of in front of the dash assembly. If you only hear one click and not several this can mean one of two things, either the fuel pump points (the things that make the click click sound) are shot, or there is full fuel pressure on the output side of the pump. If the second is the case then either you may have a clogged fuel line or a clogged fuel filter. Sounds like it's time to try what Snyper suggested and attach a hose leading into a jar or can and with key on, it should pump fuel for a couple of seconds. If no gas coming out, hook up a voltmeter to the fuel pump wires and look for 12 volts across it for a few seconds with key on... If there was no gas getting TO the fuel pump I pretty much think it would click click away with key on for around 5 seconds give or take...

You weren't trying to read AC on the red/black wires, were you?? The red and black is DC only. If you are seeing AC voltage there then something is amiss with the R/R...

same across all 3 combination of wires?? You should have gotten the same readings you got from the connector for the stator!! Maybe THAT connector needs to be hard wired...

OK it's really a TCI (Transistor Controlled Ignition) not a Capacitor Discharge Ignition. Any TCI from an '84 thru '89 will work on your bike. No, even used they ain't cheap!! What several of us have done is convert to an aftermarket unit made by Ignitech. They have to be programmed with a computer initially, and have to be wired in. There was a thread a couple of months ago about some other company making plug and play aftermarket units, unfortunately I forgot to bookmark the website...

Well, you could try soldering the wires and eliminating the connector, it won't hurt. Seems as the issue is thermal. Confused with the 12VAC reading you got, just where did you see that?? Which wires?? The issue could be the connector and heat causing resistance at connector to rise. Hard soldering will verify/eliminate if that is the issue... Once again, 'splain the 12VAC reading...

Yup! They appear pretty solid! As Dan said a little chrome polish and some elbow grease and they will look brand new!!

There is a possibility your new R/R is regulating at to high a voltage, it sounds a little high. Start bike, disconnect battery and THEN read what the "Regulated" voltage is. Could be it is regulating more like 15 volts (too high) and the battery is bringing it down to what you are reading. Yup, like Carl said, and try reading it closer to the R/R away from the battery...

18" Stratoliner with the rotors is plug and play...

Great to have you around another year Bert!!

Yup, that's another good way of seeing if the pump works, but if it does not, then you need to determine if it is the pump or the relay that is bad. The voltage test I mentioned will tell if the relay is good or bad, no voltage at all on key on, bad relay... Or, could be corroded connector on relay, etc!

Actually, around here, no two Ventures are identical, each and every one has some kind of custom mod...

Yup!! I'm thinking the old Pucster hit the nail right on the head!! I have a spin on adapter on mine so I sort of forgot the spring and washer thingy...

Looks to be in very good shape! At least cosmetically it must have been well maintained!

OK I Googled Whiby and found you are East of Toronto a bit on Lake Ontario. Several members in the Toronto/Mississauga area, lots more in Kitchener/Waterloo area, Hamilton, etc. One of the ringleaders is a guy called @Marcarl who lives in Brant and puts on several events/rides in the southern Ontario region. Great guy to know!! Also have a very good friend up in Bowmanville but he is not very active any more...

Nope!! EBay is our friend... Here's some examples... http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Yamaha-XVZ-1300-XVZ1300-Royal-Star-Venture-starter-motor-/401098958514?hash=item5d635c66b2:g:FRIAAOSwQgpW~n33&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/EB193-2012-YAMAHA-XVZ-1300-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-STARTER-MOTOR-/291815551712?hash=item43f18ff2e0:g:RoYAAOSwB9xXOhBQ&vxp=mtr Now, for a good quality rebuilt by Rick's... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-VMX12-VMAX-1985-2006-Ricks-Electric-Oe-Style-Starter-Motor-By-Ricks-/321981112537?hash=item4af791e0d9:g:aiMAAOSwpRRWnezL&vxp=mtr It states for older ventures but it may still be a 4 brush as it also calls out for VMax which is a 4 brush and is also plug and play...

Yes, I have that set too!! The only issue with "O" rings is the compound they are made of and what kind of fluid they are subjected to, and their operating temperature range. Regular nylon O rings work fine for our carb application. Jack, I was sort of confused by what he meant but ass-u-me'd that was what he was talking about...

OK are you certain you do not hear any clicks when the key is first turned on?? The reason I ask is there is a "protection" circuit with the fuel pump relay that turns the fuel pump relay off after 5 seconds or less, and the relay will not turn on again until it detects ignition pulses from the TCI. Are you sure you are getting spark to the plugs when it is turning over?? You may have an issue with your TCI not working any more. If you are not hearing any clicks at all with key on, I would suspect the fuel pump relay, which is a special relay, before I would suspect the fuel pump itself as the 1st gen fuel pumps did not fail as often as on the 2nd gen. You can hook up a voltmeter across the fuel pump, and turn the key on. You should see 12 volts for around 5 seconds then zero volts, so you have to look fast! Here's a link to your wiring diagram from this site... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf

OK if it were me I would pull the starter motor, set it on the bench, and apply 12 volts to it to see if it will spin. If it does not spin on the bench it either needs rebuilding (lot of work and money) or replacing. I would replace it with a 4 brush starter from a 2nd generation Venture which is a direct bolt in, and eliminate some of the hard starting when hot issues associated with 1st gen Ventures!! Not sure what they would go for in your country but in the US they run around $60 - $75 USD for a good used one...

Thomas, start bike, then remove one of the battery terminals. If the bike keeps on running with the battery disconnected then there is nothing wrong with your charging system, except if you have a problem like XV1100 had where it worked cold but not when it warmed up...