bongobobny

Member Carbon_One makes a really nifty lift adapter for the RSV but I'm not sure if it also fits the RSTD. I used pieces of 2 x 4 in the appropriate places to lift, just jack the jack up and see where they are needed...

Do a disc cleanup and defrag. Sometimes just rebooting the computer helps, especially in a work environment where computers sometimes never get turned off...

My favorite was the M-79 grenade launcher...

Hmmm, maybe time for a virus scan and adware scan on your computer along with computer software cleanup?? Things are fine here. Whenever my computer slows down it's time for a cleaning and organizing of the software. Maybe time for a memory hardware update? What OS are you using??

That's gonna bring gun smuggling to a whole new level...

WTF?!!? I'm still trying to figure out is he buying, selling, or what! Most scams at least you can figure out the angle and you know what they are talking about...

Yah! Back in the 60's I was a peace loving Hippy who was anti war, anti killing until I went in the service. It's amazing how a combat situation can change your viewpoints in an instant! Basic survival kicks in with an adrenaline rush and yes, you WILL shoot back with a vengeance...

Sorrey, we will be on our way to B2Dad and Mom's place that day...

Becky's gonna be REALLY disappointed Gary, she was looking forward to seeing her...

Bizarre!

YUP! Winter up north gets really boring...

If you do that make sure everything is turned off when you turn off the bike. If you don't, then you will return to a dead battery...

Good points Brian! With the Kuryakin switch set that he wants to use, the switches send 12 volts out when turned on, so if he wants to use them as passing lamps he will have to use a relay to control them by sending high beam voltage to them, but in his post he says he wants to separate his passing lamps from the headlight circuit. You are correct in the DOT definition and the reasoning being just how the lights are aimed. If the center of the beam drops from center at a distance like low beams do then they are driving lights. I believe it to be 1 foot lower at 25 feet away but I'm not 100% sure. If the beam stays at the same height or higher (can't remember the spec for that) then it is acting like a high beam and is considered a passing lamp. So, once he decides on exactly how he wants his lights then we can advise him exactly how to hook them up. If he wants his passing lamps to function as driving lights then the switch voltage should be adequate as the LED's do not draw that much current that you have to worry about any significant IR drop across the contacts...

You bet Mike!! That is one game I'm REALLY looking forward to!!

Well, if you changed the aux port to be hot all the time instead of switched, the thing still has a fuse on it, so if you did start to charge at a higher current rate the fuse would blow anyway...

Bert, I may have gotten confused in one of your earlier posts. Are you planning on adding a second set of driving lamps or changing the existing lamps to LED? I may have gotten the impression you were adding more lamps. Anybody that knows me knows I think like a trucker, you can NEVER have too many lights...

OK Bert you just opened a can of worms!! Now, as you may or may not know, your passing lamps SHOULD be currently wired to your high beam and switched on and off by the push button switch next to your cigarette lighter. It is done this way so that your passing lamps will not be on with low beams, only the high beams. This was designed so that you don't accidentally blind someone coming from the opposite direction with your passing lamps. So, before we can answer you as to how to hook up your new system we need to know just how you want it to operate. Do you want your driving lights on all the time or only when the high beam is on? Do you want both sets of lights to go on together or do you want them to operate independent of each other (use 2 switches). A relay is actually 2 different circuits. One circuit is the main power that supplies electricity to the device you want to control, and the other circuit is the actual "switch" for the relay. The switch of the relay, normally called the primary circuit of the relay is just a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core, When you apply electricity to the coil it becomes an electromagnet and pulls the contacts of the secondary circuit together completing the connection of the main power to the device you want to turn on or off. Now if you use ignition power for the primary of the relay there is no way on earth that battery power will ever get to the lights without the key being on. The second you turn the key off the relays loose power to the coil and the relay de-energizes regardless of whether the switch is on of off. So, the main power of your Kuryakin switch should go to the ignition line and not directly to the battery regardless of whether or not you use relays on the lights. That way you will NEVER accidentally leave your lights on and kill your battery. My Kuryakin box had a defect from the factory that I fixed. One of the wires got pinched under the cover and when wiggled would blow the fuse. It was where the wires curved under the cover where they get clamped down... Let us know how you want your lights to work and then we can tell you what wire to hook up where...

Yah! I have 2 separate sets of driving lights each on separate circuits, one set are the regular aftermarket passing lamps and the other set is mounted on the bottom of my floorboards for use as fog lamps. There is separate fuses for each set, controlled by separate relays and go directly to the battery for power, but I use the ignition line to run the relays...

My thoughts exactly!! There ain't no "fixin'" the Muffinman!! Heal fast my brother!!!

OK response 3. If you just use the switch to supply the driving lights then the wire that is going to the headlight will go to the Kuryakin unit instead and the switch next to the aux plug will be eliminated. In other words, hook up a wire from the new switch directly to your driving lights...

OK each switch has a rating of 10 amps. Three circuits of 10 amps adds up to 30 amps total. Each individual switch has it's own separate fuse so if something happens the other 2 circuits will continue to work. The main fuse for the switch assembly has to be at 30 amps in case something happens to short out the main feed. If you had something lower in value then if all 3 circuits were on and operating at their max rating then everything could be OK but it would blow the main feed. If you had a direct short of the main feed it would draw a lot more than 30 amps which will blow the fuse immediately. Now if you want to know how to hook up the relay, in the previous post I made a slight error in that obviously the Kuryakin unit supplies a voltage through it's contacts so you can't switch the ground on and off to the relay so you must switch the 12 volts on and off to the relay. There are 2 contacts on the relay coil, one for switched 12 volts and one for ground. To supply power to the driving lights there are 2 more contacts, one gets 12 volts from the battery, and the other goes to the driving lights. Now, I need to know if the main power to the switch assembly is tied directly to the battery or to the ignition line. What other things are you going to use the switches for? The reason I ask is if the main power goes directly to the battery and NOT the ignition line, the first time you forget to switch off your driving lights and turn off the bike you will drain your battery to nothing...

Well Bert, that is an excellent question, and has more than one answer! Yes, you could just move the wires from the existing switch to the new switch and everything would still work. That being said, you would probably be slightly better off using a relay to turn the lights on and off for a couple of reasons. For one, there will be less of a potential voltage drop across the relay contacts than the contacts of a switch. With higher current going through the switch contacts they can wear out faster and start to loose voltage across the contacts. Relay contacts are a little more heavy duty and will hold up better with time. You can also use a line directly from the battery to the driving lights and have less of a possibility of losing voltage across the ignition switch, etc. Also you can switch the ground on and off on the relay coil instead of switching the 12 volts from the ignition line to the relay coil and minimize the possibility of a short happening in the switch wiring. A relay coil draws a lot less current than the driving lights draw so the switch will last a much longer time. Hope that answers your question...

Yup! 10 amp capability will handle 120 to 130 watts no problem. For each lamp you add the watts together to get the total watts...

Those comments are priceless!!!

OK Watts, or power draw for DC is simply the voltage applied multiplied by the amps drawn at that voltage. Ohm's law is P = I x E where P is power in Watts, I is current or the number of electrons passing a single point per second and is expressed in amperage or amps for short. E is Electromotive force (EMF) which is equal to electrical "pressure" expressed in volts. Now way back when electricity was discovered and studied, Mr. Ohm discovered a relationship between electrical force and flow rate and that they were directly proportional. The more the force (volts) the more the flow (amps). He tied this all together and discovered that there is something that limits or "resists" current flow. He named the units of resistance after himself (or someone else did) and called them Ohms. Now he discovered an inverse relationship between resistance and current flow. By it's very definition the more the resistance, the less the current flow with a constant voltage. To get the same electron flow per second, the more the resistance, the more electrical pressure or voltage is needed. Viola, we have Ohm's law, I = E/R, E = I x R, and R = E/I. Now, as long as the resistance stays the same, such as a filament in a light bulb or a piece of wire, as voltage decreases so does current. What does this mean? When your motorcycle is idling your voltage goes down, the current draw goes down and the light bulb gets dimmer. As you rev up your motor there is more voltage available at the battery, causing the light bulb filament to draw more current making your light brighter. (some of you brighter people will point out that the resistance of the light filament does not stay constant but rather the resistance decreases with lower temperature which increases current flow making a 35 watt bulb stay 35 watts with lower voltage but I disagree, the change is not that significant to equalize it) So what does all of this mean to you? Probably confusion! To answer your question yes the more lights you add the more they will drag down your battery. Try to think of your battery as a storage box for electrons, and the more electrons you take from the battery, the less reserve you have unless you replace those electrons. That is the job of your charging system or the Stator and the regulator/rectifier. They replace those electrons in your electricity storage box, or battery, that you use up listening to music and seeing where you are going and being seen, and using your horn to yell at the idiots in cages. So tell me Bert, what are you trying to figure out??