bongobobny

Why squirrel is good eatin'!

That would be Wye, and squared would be Delta...

Dodge is a good guess IMHO but not enough detail on the photo. Could be a Maxwell...

Great! Just don't forget about your secondary issue with the ignition switch, it may eventually cause all sorts of gremlins to pop up...

And now why am I hearing "How much is that doggie in the window..."

Everybody knows that somebody should do all the good things that nobody did...

What you are discovering Aharbi, is that there are several ways to do it and everybody insists THEIR way is the best...

Yup! DJH is right on track, sort of! All the brake light switch does is supply 12V to the brake light relay, and if the back brake is working then it's pretty much the switch. A quick test would be to follow the brake light switch to the connector and disconnect it. The brake light should magically come on! The whole circuit is quite complicated an affair, and the schematic, I believe, shows that without voltage it connects 12 volts to the brake light but with voltage it disconnects the voltage from the brake lights. Now, long story short, when either front or rear brakes are off, 12 volts goes thru both switches for cruise, and to turn off the brake lights. Hit either brake and it disconnects the 12 volts for both the cruise and the brake light relay resulting in the contacts for the brake lights on the relay to connect!! Sooo, if you unplug the front brake switch it should turn the brake lights on! Unfortunately I think you will find the connector inside the fairing but I'm not 100% on that. My RSV is sleeping and can't rush out and look. If you remove the brake switch from the front handle if the switch was good the brake light SHOULD come on because the switch is normally pushed in with the brake off, and pulled out via the internal spring when you squeeze the brake lever. If the switch isn't travelling far enough it may not disconnect the 12 volts and prevent the brake light from coming on. The rear disconnects the 12 volts when it is pulled in via the linkage connected to the brake pedal at the pivot shaft...

I can hear Doris Day right now... Why do I hear Doris Day???

WOW!! Nice find Kevin!! We should put it into our tech library!

Vito, pictures 2 and 6 show the contacts that need polishing. If they are really badly pitted and corroded you may want to consider replacing them...

Yah Gary, I had him check the voltages on each side of the main fuse at the wires for a possible voltage drop across the fuse link. The link can develop corrosion where it screws into the block. Hopefully he did the checking on the wires to ground and not on the screws on the link as if the corrosion was on the screw and the bottom of the link the IR drop would not show up on the screw head possibly. At this point he is dealing with two separate issues, a voltage (IR) drop before the 10A ignition fuse and another IR drop somewhere between the fuse and the relay socket, the latter being most likely the Kill Switch. Before the fuse block there is the main fuse and the ignition switch...

Kevin, I think he means the PTT/Chanel tune switches...

Heh! Kevin and I were typing at the same time with basically the same info!

OK now to enlighten you! The MK1';s didn't come with a CB except as a dealer installed option, and there was basically 2 different models. Both of the 2 different models had two separate boxes, one box mounted on the right dash and was just a display and switches. The actual CB was a separate box connected to the controller box and hidden inside the fairing. What most of us do is buy a CB from a MK2 along with the dash pieces and the MK2 CLASS controller. For wiring info use the MK2 wiring schematic... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf

Yes, your control switch has your Push To Talk or PTT switch on it. All it does is supply ground to the yellow wire for transmit or TX...

From what little I can remember Becky liked the 1st gen better but then again she is a woman and they do have the right to change their minds whenever they feel like it! I'll never fully understand a woman...

Check the connector to the ignition switch, they have been known to cause problems but that is more of a second gen problem...

The ignition switch is like any rotary contact switch, it has fixed and moving contacts. You disassemble and polish similar to the other switches. Check the 1st gen Read Only tech library and see of Gary (Dingy) did a write up on the ignition switch. If you are getting only a tenth or two volt drop across the fuses then they are OK but yes it is a good idea to switch over to modern plug in fuses, the glass ones are getting harder and harder to find! I am hoping the problem exists on the main fuse which will be a quicker fix than removing your ignition switch and rebuilding that! The fact that you are getting 11 volts out of the fuse and only 10 volts at the fuel pump with the relay jumpered most likely means you are loosing voltage across the kill switch. The reason it works for a few seconds is because the kill switch contacts are offering circuit resistance, they heat up, and heat makes the resistance go higher lowering the voltage on the pump side to the threshold of the pump operation...

There are two things that may cause the loss at the ignition fuse, the ignition switch, and the main 40 amp fuse. Not sure about the MK2, but the MK1 is a metal link affair that is mounted with screws. You need to have some kind of a load on the circuit to develop a voltage drop to be detected. From the battery you will see two lines, one going to the starter solenoid, and the other going to a plastic box with a clear cover on it. This is the main fuse. With a load, such as your fuel pump setup on read the voltage on the wires if possible on both sides. There is a good possibility that the fuse link has corrosion or the screws are loose, dirty, or corroded. If you are only seeing a tenth of a volt or two across the main fuse then you issue is most likely the contacts on your ignition switch...

I be likin' it waaaay too much!!!

Yup!! Second gear is a real surprise on a 1st gen!! It will lift the front end very easily...

Outstanding!!!!!

That could be Jeff! I'm already aware of the character of John, not my favorite person there to say the least...

OK I'll give you that Jeff, but let's deal with one issue at a time. First let him confirm the drop across the kill switch. I misread, thought he saw 11.8, not 11.3 but he still is loosing voltage from the fuse to the relay contacts. The issue before the fuse can be the ignition switch, or the fusable link (main fuse) which is a link with screws from what I remember...