Cowboy

I travel this route quite often. Not sure how much Interstate you will run but I have traveled from Kingston, Tn. over to Tellico Plains, Tn. (beginning the Cherohala Skyway) over to run the Tail of the Dragon up and back over towards Bryson City, NC. Many more routes are available! Not sure how long or time you have to spend in the area. I have given many guided trips in the area so if you have any questions feel free to call or email. Have a great trip follow link below to see a suggested route. http://binged.it/1ozjiem

Puc, We owned the 1987 1st Gen and had just over 75,000 miles on it. I had formed an 1991 Stock Goldwing windshield on it so the coverage was if I remember correctly 4" each side and almost 6" taller. It put the passenger in a great pocket. Sherrie also liked how much support the back rest had for her. Seems on the 2nd Gen it just is not tall enough. Liked the seat also gave more support on the areas that needed it and I had taken a little out at the tail bone area. I have to say after we have modified and put over 100,000 miles on the 2nd Gen. we both would like to have the old 87 back. Guess it will have to be just a newer bike at some point. Good Luck Ride with the wind my friend. Hope all is well up your way. Brian & Sherrie Shoemaker AKA Cowboy

Kenny, Wishing you a great day & Happy Birthday!! Happy Birthday Buddyro!!! Counting the days till we can ride together again, Godspeed my brother. See you in the mountains some time in near future.

Eck, Been down both those roads in the last four years. I say that it must be a mixed bag. 92 is a road that runs down in the valley floor of mountains on each side. Views are all over but not as wide open as over on 219. 219 is wider and more open. It has more houses and small business also. I think it mainly depends on how you get there and where you want to end up. just my 2 cents Must see rides 1. Ride under the bridge at US19 New River Gorge 2. US 60 West over to the Hawks Nest State Park overlook 3. US 60 West over to the Gauley Bridge 4. US 60 West 2 miles west of Gauley Bridge is the Kanawha Falls city park. 5. US 60 East of US19 to WV41 south to Babcock State Park a. Grist Mill in the park b. Great place to watch the sunset is on the little road between the cabins and main entrance. The valley between and sun set in the middle. Take a bottle of wine and the music box with your favorite sound. It will echo down the valley and every time we have been there the park is almost empty. We have stayed in the campground & the cabins down by the river. Clean and affordable. 6. US60 East to WV20 north to WV39 east to WV55 east to WV150 Scenic Highway to US219 7. If you make over to Senca Rock 8. Ride up on Spruce Knob Highest Point in WV *** Restaurant at the base of Spruce Knob Meat and 3 vegetables really tasty place good dessert also. 9. WV72 **the goat trail *** over to US219 north to Blackwater Falls down to Canan Valley Eck, the bottom line I have toured the WV area the last four years and have decided that WV does not have a bad road as long as you stay on the Eastern side of the state.

Not sure that I have ever had an engine fail. However it is the surrounding parts. 1. Carbs 2. Stators 3. Starter Clutch Gears 4. Rear Ends Who & What experience with engine failures do we have out there? Inquiring minds want to hear! Personal experience with the following Fathers then Mine 1968 CB750 235,000 miles no motor issues found out how nice a ride a Goldwing was Fathers 1981 GL1200 248,000 miles no issues just wanted an upgrade. Mine 1981 GL1200 175,000 miles no issues just wanted an upgrade Fathers 1984 GL1200 125,000 miles stator problem Fathers 1986 GL1200 148,000 miles stator problem Mine 1987 Venture Royale 1300 125,000 miles no issues just crashed out Uncles then Mine 1986 Kawasaki Voyager 1300 58,000 miles just did not like the ride. Not a good fit! No problems Fathers 1991 GL1500 191,000 miles no motor issues crashed out Fathers 1994 GL1500 145,000 miles no motor issues still running strong Mine 2004 Midnight RSV 98,945 miles no motor issues still running strong. Carb Floats & continuous Carb Syncs Rear Shock Stator & Rectifier Valve Adjustments This is the only bike that I have done any maintenance on other than Changing Oil & Filter & All Fluid. Brake Pads, Plugs & Tires Seems like a pretty good run of bike history running strong.

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002008&id=176 Just a note: I have a 2004 Midnight RSV. I had exhaust popping on the decel under load. I first did as most have said, replace all vacuum lines and plugs, replaced exhaust gaskets, examine all exhaust joints for any pin holes, Sync Carbs, still got popping. So I plugged the AIS System, problem solved. Four years later have the bike apart for winter maintenance and decided to remove the AIS System completely. I did this however it is not as easy as it seems. The plugs that come directly of the engine are very hard to get a complete seal that will last. Just my two cents worth I would leave the AIS plugged and not try and remove. Wish I could go back, in order to remove I had to use a saw. Good luck! Brian

Check out this blog on our trip west in 2008 http://www.brianshoemakersironhorse.blogspot.com/ Never put off what you can do today for tomorrow! Tomorrow may never come! Life changes like the weather you just never know. Thoughts! 1. Camping, Hotel, Motel, Bed & Breakfast? 2. Eating habits? 3. Sleeping habits? 4. Riding style? 5. Interest items you want to see or do? 6. Realistic time you can be away from home. a. As Dennis / Midrsv mentioned that it is very hard to get it all in on one trip. 7. Weather Predictions for El Nino year versus La Nina can determine if you travel in the north states. Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana 8. Pulling a trailer or not pulling a trailer. a. 2008 we did not pull a trailer and bike was overloaded, had to always think about how things where packed. b. Every trip since we pull a Roadstar Bushtec trailer. Camping or not camping makes things easier. 9. Time of year that you want to make trip will also affect the places you want to ride and can ride. a. Glacier National Park average opening for the Road to the Sun June 23rd b. Independence Pass in Colorado c. Death Valley d. Yosemite National Park SO MANY THINGS COME IN TO PLAY. BOTTOM LINE IS RIDE WITH THE WIND AND LET THAT RSV TAKE YOU AND YOUR WIFE/BEST FRIEND ON THE ADVENTURES THAT WE ARE ALL SO BLESSED WITH. Brian & Sherrie

Picked up Blind Hole Bearing Remover from Autozone. All wheel bearings came in mail on Friday Saturday I removed the wheel bearings with the Blind Hole Bearing Remover and a plumbing torch to heat the area up prior to pulling out. Sunday after new bearings stayed in freezer all night I put the new bearings in. Rear wheel I had to use a 2" PVC pipe to set the bearing. Removed the rear shock and linkage and greased all the bearings in the swing arm and shock linkage mounts. Then I tackled the head bearings. I would like to say that it is a Pain in the butt and the average shade tree mechanic like me should have had help. Removing the lower bearing from the steering arm took a longtime surly they make a tool to remove. I got it but not easy. Then to remove the upper & lower inner tube bearing race needed heat and the correct punch. should of had four hands to make it easier. Then to put the bearings back on I had taken the old bearing and ground out the inside so I could use it as a bearing driver, again four hands would have been nice. After I packed the bearings and re-installed the steering head, I torqued it down using the wrench that dingy sold me. Torqued well over recommended then moved around to make sure bearings seated properly. I then loosened the bearing back off and the re torqued to recommended torque 37ft-lb. Waiting on the front forks to be rebuilt by Traxion Suspension. Then I will reassemble the front end. What a mess in the garage with all the parts of the bike lying around. Thanks again to this wonderful site with all the great people and advise.

Thanks to all. Found the tool at local Auto Zone. The local Oriley's did not have one. Looks like you just need to check with your individual Auto Parts or do like Condor and buy one. Thanks again.

Which Auto Parts Store ended up having? Not that means they all have just a place to start if it was a chain store, NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced Auto, O'rielys Thanks for the all the responses, another reason to be apart of this great group! I will be looking for that tool.

2004 RSV with 100,000 miles Trying to replace Front & Rear wheel bearings. How do you remove the wheel bearings? Does anyone have a tool that I could borrow, that will remove them?

Looks like I need to purchase the 11-1144 Progressive Springs? Question will I need any spacers for the new springs or is it a direct swap? Question what weight fork oil should I use? How would you fill the fork up with oil and replace the cap? The spring that is in mine now sticks up and trying to press it in place and screw it on was not working for me. Must be wimp! So without the oil I fit the cap in the vise and turned the fork horizontally and pushed and turned at the same time until the cap threaded itself. Not sure but I know that it will not work like that when I put the oil in it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Any ideas on which progressive springs need to replace the OEM? Any special tools needed to replace springs? Anyone in Georgia or close to Ellijay, GA. ever done this? Beer and Steak dinner would be a easy to arrange, even overnight accomodations in the Shoemaker INN !! Goose, How do I get torque on the new head steering bearings. What type of tool is required? Draining the front forks from the bottom. Why is a special tool needed? Would that special tool be the Damper Rod Holder & T-Handle? I think it is to late! I have already drained the forks from the bottom and re installed the bolt. Do you think I might have damaged the Damper if I did not have the correct tool? Is this the correct thinking for not draining from the bottom?? Thanks to all

2004 RSV with 97,787 miles I have replaced the rear shock with a works heavy duty spring. I have been running Avon Venoms with 41 psi front & 44 psi rear I have noticed in the last few thousand miles that I get a rear end wobble with a down hill sweeping curve at anything over 50mph Since the bike has close to 100,000 I figured it could not hurt to replace all wheel bearings, replace the head steering bearings, replace the swing arm bearing & new front fork springs. Need to know what part numbers I need for the forks & what weight fork oil? Wondering if someone has the correct tool to torque the head steering bearings down properly! Thanks

Need help from someone who has replaced the front fork springs and the steering head bearings. I have removed the fairing, front wheel, front fender and now would like to replace the steering head bearings. Does anyone have the correct tool for adjusting the bearing? How involved is it to replacing the fork springs or just remove the forks and have someone do it? Please advise with thoughts! Thanks Cowboy

I had no problems. They have a brick & mortar store in Loudon, TN. The reason I found this out was I needed the parts fast! I drove up and got them. I will use them again if the price is right. Seems that they have a good price with good service.

Brake Pad Not sure who is on your committee but I think that Eck should pipe in on possible day rides and attractions for folks. I have attached a link to a day ride that I personally have ridden and think that it should keep people in the shade. http://binged.it/12iLJk8 Another Ride possibility is up to Jack Daniels Distillery in Lynchburg, TN http://binged.it/151HoTh Hope this works for you!

Finally got the things back together on Wed. night and test ride on Thur. All was good. Charging at idle is 13.1 & at a higher rpm 14.6 Friday afternoon the wife and I rode over to Vogel to see everyone there. Great to see that Donations for Saint Jude was so strong even with the low turn out and the iffy weather. Cudo's to Louis and all involved. Checked the charging and battery voltage several times and had no drainage on battery and the voltage held at the 13.1 at idle & 14.6 at higher rpm. Bottom line Stator was bad in three coils. Replaced the following since bike has 97,000 miles on it. oemcycle.com address 905 Mulberry St. Loudon, Tennessee 37774 (888)-736-2519 1. Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator HO Yamaha 21-412H $124.86 2. Ricks Motorsport Electric Regulator Yamaha 10-413 $ 57.22 Then due to the time for shipping I ordered the gaskets from local Yamaha, however if you can wait oemcycle.com can provide. I was pressed for time since I wanted to make a showing at Vogel. 3. 4NK-15451-00-00 Gasket CRCS Cover $ 11.43 4. 3JP-15461-01-00 Gasket CRCS Cover 2 $ 3.33 5. 90430-06014-00 Crush Washer Gasket $ 2.24 Hard to beat that price or value! Note: I did end up cutting the white plug out of the wiring harness, seems that after I had cleaned the area really well and did another inspection the back side of white plug wiring needed attention. Best fix was to soldier and shrink wrap the wires. Make sure you have the wires ran correctly before soldiering! Due to the wire gauge being different I found it rather difficult, however after thought would have been to use a splice connector with soldier. Made sure to shrink wrap each wire then another wrap of electrical tape then a larger shrink wrap over all three wires. Results look like a new harness. Any questions feel free to call! 706-635-1580

Got the Stator & Regulator ordered should have on Wed. Thanks Monty for the info on part numbers. I got the bike apart! Cleaned the areas that never see daylight! Thought I kept the bike clean but the area behind Covers / Pipes / Foot Pegs / Shift Lever and all had a build up of crud. Guess over 97,000 miles it gets that way. Anyway I will try and get some pictures up loaded showing what has been done and found. Stator was burnt/bad White Plug down by the fuel filter was in good condition at the connections, However after cleaning the area and really inspecting the plug on the Harness side of the plug one of the wires was burnt. Guess I will do away with this plug and hard wire new stator. New regulator just to go with the new stator. New Gaskets Wondering what type of Gasket sealer I should use. Seems that the original had a small amount. Never liked using it on my Chevy 350 or 396 rebuilds! Hopefully I will have it back together so I can be over at Vogel / Tail of the Dragon by Friday A.M. Thanks for all the comments and advise.

My thoughts on the road is that it is passable however it is not fun or relaxing on the RSV. We fought the road for over a hour never really had time to relax and enjoy the ride like you can do if you just stay on the pavement. I like you thought it might be a cool trail/road but we were disappointed. Better in the Jeep. As for it being one way well the road is only wide enough for one lane so if you did meet someone then it might not end well. Can't remember if it was one way officially. Cades Cove Loop Road is however one way.

After keeping the RPM's up above 5000rpm I could not get the AC Voltage above 72 or 74. I compared that too my buddy's and his was above 100. I also took his rectifier/regulator off and put on mine. Still not more than 13.3 Want input from previous purchases that people made.

What gaskets are needed when replacing the stator on 2004 RSV? Below is what I found so far! 4NK-15451-00-00 Gasket Crankcase Cover 1 $11.43 4XY-81410-02-00 Stator Assy $216.35 4XY-81960-00-00 Rectifier/Regulator $70.25 http://www.oemcycle.com or I found at the same place 4NK-15451-00-00 Gasket Crankcase Cover 1 $11.43 21-412H Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator $127.95 10-413 Ricks Motorsport Electric Rectifier/Regulator $57.22 or even better price but not sure of service http://www.powersportsuperstore.com 21-412H Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator $119.31 10-413 Ricks Motorsport Electric Rectifier/Regulator $61.26 or then there is the Buckeye Performance http://www.buckeyeperformance.com BP426-426-HOSTAT high output stator with (2) gaskets $274.00 Heavy Duty Rectifier $125.00 Looks like the OEM Yamaha parts since I got just over 98,000 miles out of the original. or possible the Ricks Motorsport Electric parts from oemcycle.com, everbody that has used either needs to pipe in. Thanks

Looks like with all the testing and wire connections all clean and corrosion free. The stator is just not sending the proper AC current to the RR. Checked the AC current at both the large black plug at the RR & The White Stator plug both gave me a AC current reading well below Spec. Just for triple check I had another buddy drop his 2005 RSV over and compare readings and the even pulled his RR and replaced it on mine. No better results. Thanks for all the input, However no one had pictures of the replacement? 1. What are the replacement options Stator for a 2004 RSV a. Part numbers would be appreciated. b. Price also? 2. If I go with a HO Stator will I need to replace the RR also. All the reading on this just got down right confussing. Help with info plese. Thanks again

Back from 10 days in WV. Pulled in the garage and the bike would not restart, battery died after 6 year. New battery installed last week did not think about checking stator since the battery was 6 years old 12.9 Volts showing with battery in state. Friday Rode 3 hours while pulling trailer and made two stops. Had to roll off to get started on the second stop made it another 30 miles and bike just died at a red light. Got pulled off to the side and had a Auto Parts store give the battery a charge. While I pulled the fuses out for the headlight and all other accessory's that I have. Long story but made it back to the house. Now trying to find out what happened and what is wrong. HOW TO CHECK THE STATOR AND RR? Looking for pictures and example of testing Stator & RR! 1. Testing the Coil Resistance a. OHM Meter Settings choices 1. 20M 2. 2M 3. 200K 4. 20K 5. 2K 6. 200 NOT SURE WHAT IS THE CORRECT SETTING CHOICES FOR EACH TEST!! HELP PLEASE RR plug has five wires in it Black Ground Red Positive (3) White Stator leads Used the 200 setting and tested 1 to 2 2 to 3 & 1 to 3 for Coil resistance result 0.52 at all three test. Note the leads touching each other had a 0.2 therefore I assume that .052 minus 0.2 was ok to give me a reading of 0.32 Now Not sure how to test the short to ground on the plug that connects to RR. I set the ohms on 200K and put black lead on the engine ground and then used the red lead on each of the three white stator pins on the connector at RR. Question what is described as a reading Open (OL) or Very High resistance, what is this reading on the meter. 2. Testing the AC Voltage output of the stator? At idle rpm reading on all three post 24.2, 22.9, & 24.6 At higher rpm not sure the exact rpm but should be close to 3500 very different readings between the three post 54.6, 63.8, 74.9 thought that I should have a even increase on all three not such a difference! Would this be an indication that at rpm am not charging properly?

Randy, You know I always let my nose take me and I am my own GPS. I just have those days that I know the roads and route I want to take but some of the turns might not be marked or I am not paying attention to the road but the scenery around me. I want the GPS to alert me when there is a turn coming so I do not have to look for it. I know the roads just not always the turns. Stroker Ace, Hwy 209 leaving Lake Junalska/ Maggie Valley North to Hot Springs is a great run! Then head over to Hwy 212 toward Erwin, TN. Hwy 181 South out of Linville, NC to Hwy 126 over to Lake James is also a great road. Always pack a Lunch so we can enjoy along the river or at the lake. Gatlinburg is not my cup of tea either due to the amount of traffic & people, however by sliding in the back door and then early thru Cades Cove just for the wildlife is ok. Just do not hang around or let it get later than 10:00 a.m. Seems that most of the people who make it to Gatlinburg do not get moving before 8:00 a.m. Hard to find breakfast any earlier. Would you happen to know what road the Elk can be seen on?