VerntureVet

Just FYI I had to install a magnet in my brake rotor with a reed pickup for the speedo so I put on a 2nd reed for the cruise. It didn't like the 1:1 feedback so I had to make a little 2:1 logic so the cruise controller didn't have fits.

Whats your thought on these Vacuum Pulse Fuel Pumps? 14 liters (~3.69 gallons) per hour flow rate. You know me and my never ending quest to have as little electrical load or anything not necessary electrical for that matter on my bike. Why? I have the bike up on the stand doing the rewire after decowling it. I wired up the ignition system turn on the key and flipped the stop switch to on. At first I was happy to hear the fuel pump click in. Then the oh SHIP moment came. Fuel spilling out like a fountain from the pump. Guess the side of the pump housing decided it had enough and cracked. I was able to patch it up with some JB WetWeld so I can press on with the rewire. but b4 I head out on the road again I am going to need a new pump.

I see your point Randy and I'm sure its always worked. More than 1 way to skin a cat. Maybe Pops being an engineer jaded his desire to use thickened oil (grease) in a not ideal application. Grease is designed to thin out from friction of bearing surfaces to provide 360deg lubrication. That is why it is graded for stiffness and temp. As far as WD-40 not lasting long enough it only takes @ normal road speeds one trip to the carry out to push Lucus up the cable. WD-40 is nothing more in my tool box than a penetrate and cleaner. I imagine if you pack enough grease into something it will work. I would be more inclined to use graphite paste myself over grease. Whatever way you go clean it all up good choose your weapon of choice and drive in peace.

Grease is designed to work when it gets warm enough to melt. It will then do its job and cool and lube the bearing. This is why high speed industrial motor bearings are only packed 2/3 full. Ask and good electric motor repair house why you should not over grease bearings and you will get the same story. IMO Grease is not the way to go. The speedo cable friction will not get warm enough to let grease get liquid enough to do its job. Ever since I was a teen working on Hot Rods with Pops there has always only been 1 way per him to take care of a speedo cable. 50% Lucas 50% slick 50. The advanced lubrication of the slick 50 with the stick and climb of the Lucas. To teach me Pops took a speedo cable cleaned it with WD-40 of all the grease. Lubed it up with his magic mixture short about 6 in from the speedo and spun it with a drill. The mix will climb its way UP the cable @ higher speeds and lube the speedo bearings all on its own but you have to get all the nasty grease off. I use this same mix in an oil lube can over any other lube on everything from squeaky door hinges to the chains on the kids bikes. WD-40 is a nice deruster and cleaner. Grease is great for a sealed place that gets warm enough. Stick and Slick is good for low temp lubrication.

I think this is the size of the steering bearings? UPPER BEARING DIMENSIONS: Inside Diameter: 25mm/.99 in. Outside Diameter: 47mm/1.85 in. Width: 15mm/.91 in. LOWER BEARING DIMENSIONS: Inside Diameter: 30mm Outside Diameter: 55mm Width: 18mm Most springier front ends have 1in(25.4mm) tubes so maybe polish off ~0.015748 from the tube and go with the 25mm ID top and bottom? Something like this may work for the rear shock But im not looking to spend $400 on just a rear shock........

I got the Progressive springs in the front forks now. What are my options for ditching the air piston on the rear now? CLASS is nice and all but with all my hacking @ the Yammy I don't even use it. Most of the time I set it to low/no air. I actually would not mind lowing the rear an inch or so along with the front forks. Also if anyone happens to know the specs on the steering bearing, tube size, length.... that would save me from taking it off to measure. I was considering putting on a springer front end this winter and thought maybe I could size the bearings to make it an easy swap out.

Gorilla quick epoxy and a couple welding rods. Just a touch on the end of a couple rods push it in onto the key and wait a couple hours. Pull very slow. Just take warning too much epoxy and....... I have pulled this off many times on broken keys but again be warned I did put too much on one time and glues the key in.

Mix 50% Lucas and 50% slick 50 Pull the cable give it a thin coat upto about 6 in from the speedo. Over time the lube will works its way UP and lube the bushing and drum so don't go over board. You can hit the back side of the speedo cable connector with a quick shot of WD-40 it will clean any old crud and lube it long enough for the 50/50 to work its way up and do the job for you.

Whats the point if you are traveling 30 miles and the speed limit is 65mph. Driving +10 @ 75mph saves you all of about 3.5 minutes. that can be canceled out by just hitting 1 stop light. it works the other way also 55 in a 65 you only loose a few minutes. I travel the interstate a lot from Toledo to Bowling Green and I get passed a lot by rockets and cars with cruise set 2 the speed limit. I can't count the # of times I get passes by someone and pull up 1-2 cars behind them @ the stop light on the exit 10 miles after I got passed. Or better yet seeing them up the road getting a ticket. Not worth a few minutes IMO. Do I play on my bike? Sure I do but its always on a back road in the country with no lines or signs.

Didn't we just have a little talk about 2 wrongs don't make a right when I posted about IDIOT drivers? I took a lot away from that thread about keeping my cool. Someone almost killing me don't give me the right to run them down and woop there azz. In the same respect Getting passed by someone in a double yellow zone don't give him the right to cause harm to them. Listen real good to the audio the 1st thing the old dude says is he shouldn't be passing in a double yellow. Only after he was told there was a video he starts claiming he got stung by a wasp. Far be it for me to Judge or make a comment of my opinion. It's in the hands of the courts now. The issue is more who is liable as the incident happened while the bike rider was preforming an illegal pass. HOWEVER if the car driver is judged to have done it intentionally he is ripe for a civil suite @ the least. Here is an example that happened to a good friend of mine. My friend Jason ran a red light and was T-Boned by a car that was in the right of way. By all means Jason was @ fault and was sited. His insurance was the one that had to settle the claim. Another driver behind the car that hit Jason happened to have a dash cam and the video was turned over to the police and became part of evidence to the accident. Out of curiosity Jason obtained a copy of the video almost a month after the accident and the claims had been settled. You can clearly see in the video the other driver started to move when the light turned green. Noticing Jason's car was not going to stop he braked jolting to a stop. Now who knows what was going threw the other drivers head but he then gunned it even breaking traction on his tires and hit Jason. J took the video to a lawyer and after viewing it they took it to a civil court trial. The civil trial ruled malicious intent on the part of the other driver and awarded J damages enough to cover his insurance rate jack, personal damages, and the cost of damages to his car that got awarded to the insurance company. Because it was a civil matter the other guy never paid and the court only said you can sue him for non payment or maybe a garnishment @ his own cost. Point is we live in a messed up time and even in this case unless someone got killed no one is going to jail most likely and even if a civil trial awards them something don't mean someone is going to pay. After all no one got the video of the wasp stinging the old man so its his word Vs the camera.

What I was trying to do was make a two 1.5in pipe inlets that stick out the side of the bike and point forward scooping air into a MUCH slimmer airbox that I made from copper plate. I used 2 of the round 2in filters on the inside of the box and then mounted that onto the new box I made. for the venturis I just used a copper 90s and pointed them all backwards where the air comes in. I spent the better part of 2 weeks with fans and a smoke streamer getting the flow right. Needless to say I was disappointed it made the carbs have fits. I never even thought to consider the restriction. Thanks

You didn't have issues with the carbs tripping out? Every time I try to take off even just my Airbox cover my carbs trow fits.

@zagger What are you using for intakes stacks?

ALL of that is in my Shed. you need everything south of the uppers with the turn signals in them?

It's OK djh3 if anything this is my therapy session for venting this in a constructive way Vs running someone down :-P

I have the entire fairing off my 1988 Venture Royale less the saddle bags removed. Some of the parts would need some fiberglass patching on the tabs and a couple have cracks that would need filled. You are welcome to them for the cost of shipping + a few bucks for the packaging to get them to you. Your welcome to toss a few bones my way if you like but I would rather just get them out of the shed and see them go to good use.

It took my matter to the OHP and local Sheriff. The issue seams to be that even with a video an officer has to witness the event if no accident had occurred in order to issue a traffic citation. They explained this is why speed and red light cams can not add the offence to your DMV Record. The same does not apply for most criminal matters like assault or even road rage (aggregation from someone else against someone). So what it boils down to is a video of someone pushing you off the road and possibly killing you is not good enough to site a driver unless a prosecutor can be convinced it was a criminal act done intentionally. A video of a pissed off driver leaving his vehicle and being aggressive even if no harm or damage is done can land you anything from a disorderly conduct to a felony. This explains why @Larry1963 had the issue he had as I assume GA law is likely worded the same. I told my wife I am going to get a few GoPro gen1s as they are cheap for the bikes just in case one of us get seriously injured or worse. The OHP told me it would take a political campaign and lots of $$ to introduce a law to make videos evidence of a sitable traffic offence and that even then it is a tricky thing because it would open the door for ANY video including red light cams evidance. So in the mean time I will just have to keep my attitude in check and start focusing on defensive skills like @Great White suggested. I worry about the wife as she is a novice rider now with her own 883. I almost feel the need to tap into my wreckless 20's when I was still fearless enough to do dumb tricks on the rockets and tech some of them skills to my wife. I am 100% sure I avoided a wreck more than once even on an 800lb bike because I know how to do 360s and other crazy tricks on a bike lol. Someone needs to build a VR training simulator......

I'm not saying I wasn't in the wrong with the aggressiveness. But OPPS sorry I almost killed you because I was on my phone and not paying attention is just a bit short if ignorance. Just think its silly I am not allowed to get mad @ someone for almost killing me. Years ago when I was 17 I did a burn out on a dead end street and a cop happened to be near by. I got a ticket for reckless driving and excessive take off. So why even with a cam footage can people not get a ticket for failure to yield and reckless endangerment? I am a responsible biker @Great White I do all of the stuff you do just to stay on 2 wheels. But for Pete sake when it happens more than once a week to me personally in this town full of collage students then something needs to be done or some attitudes need to change. Don't change my feelings @ all about it being a crime to ***** someone out but not a crime to be in irresponsible driver.

Not sure if this is the correct place for this move it if it is not. Admitting I am a touch hot headed and coupled with being bi-polar does not help the matter sometimes. I am lucky to have an understanding family and over the years I have learned ways to check myself when my meds just don't do the trick. But man I tell you I am a hair shy of loosing my cool when it comes to the idiots on the road who seam to think a Motorcycle can magically grow wings and fly out of danger or they are blind to anything with less than 4 wheels. I mean come on now I have a stupid bright LED headlight (not pointing high just normal 100ft patern) that has a high frequency pulse. My bike by some is considered obnoxiously load even when just cruising worse if I am accelerating and X 2 if the wife is on and the extra load required more twist. This week alone its been building up with more than a few times I have been pushed out of my lane, pulled out in front of, and even a car merging onto the E-Way when a semi in the left lane prevented me from my normal getting over and a car riding my azz kept me from slowing down. So today I took the wife to get her glasses adjusted and on the way home on a straight no traffic road I slowed down to make a right onto the cross road that has STOP SIGNS and I did not. Just as I got down to 15-20mph and started to lean into the turn this woman from the left stop sign just decides its her time to cross the road right in front of me. I had to lock up my rear and lean deep into the turn and ended up almost 180 in the damp grass with the wife on the back. Somehow the bike stayed upright and she stayed on but with a death grip on my waist that left marks. Prob. More luck than skillfull riding. So I lost my cool popped it in gear and down the road after her I went. down @ the next stop sign I pulled around her and parked my bike in front of her car got off and proceed to inform her of her IQ and some other choice comments mixed with questions about if she was dumb or trying to kill me. Not my brightest moment but it is what it is. So luck have it the sheriff just happened to drive by and notice my parking job and apparent harassment of the driver. He ordered me to cool my jets and move my bike and after him having conversations with me and the driver she pulled off. Luck have it I new the guy and he just gave me the 3rd degree and informed me she said she didn't try to kill me. Also that my ROAD RAGE could be a felony. So How is it some idiot can try and kill me but my *****ing her out over it is a felony. WTF do we do short of flashing beacons and 150db exhaust ?... wait thats illegal also. If you video tape say on a go pro someone doing this does that even hold up in court for at least reckless driving?

Nice fix (or band aid) however you look @ it. AIS does nothing for the bike it is purely an emissions thing. What @eusa1 suggested sounds like a a good fix for the complaint. Now what is probably happening is the butchered gutted pipe is causing the A/F mixture to be out of tune. Typically gutting the exhaust will cause a more lean running engine in the lower throttle positions. The popping is cause by extra fuel igniting in the exhaust when the carbs lean out and the exhaust gas become hotter. Not knowing the condition of the carbs or what the shops idea of cleaning was can complicate things. The AIS was probably contributing to the popping when adding more air to an already slightly lean run. If disabling the AIS fixed the popping I would guess that it was just slightly lean on the pilot and or needle. The bogging you mentioned is a sign of lean running also. Get you a wide band Air Fuel meter you can pick them up for ~$100-$150 or find someone who can loan you one. Check your A/F ratio @ idle, 1/4, 1/2, and WOT. That will tell you if you need a rejet. Running a little lean is not so bad you get better mileage but loose some power. Too lean and you can burn valves. If you go this route and find your in the 13-15.5 range your OKish. The theoretically perfect ratio is 14.7. at 13-14.7 your slightly rich and @ 14 your optimal for power. Anything over 15.5 is running too lean and could damage your engine from too much heat. I also want to add that the AIS was designed for the stock tuned exhaust. Changing the mufflers changes the effectiveness of the AIS as it injects air to a spot that is best suited in temp and many other factors to not cause the popping in the 1st place. Just like a leaking collector or clamp seam can cause the same issues because air is being introduced someplace it was not intended to be. The whole issue just may be the AIS dumping air into the exhaust where it is now too hot still due to more flow in the 1st place.

$6k sounds about right for a dealer sold "03 but for that price it should be in darn nice condition. Do as other say and know what that warranty covers. A lot of dealers slip in leaks and seals as uncovered items and use all kinds of shady tricks to make leaks not show on the lot. If its a good lot they should let you take it for a ride and I would drive it direct to a shop and have them give it a good look over. As for a 1st bike just remember its heavy and take it slow until you are comfortable on it.

GPS APP on phone and tape it to your tank or someplace you can see it. I ran for months on an Android app called GPSSPEEDO with my tablet taped to the right side panel ;-)

The way it is there is no way to "turn it off" to sync. My carbs were already well synced prior to doing this so they should be still darn close. I had considered putting in a ball valve but there was not enough room to get a 3/4in one in easily. The general idea was just a what if I. I do agree it would be a good idea to find a shade tree way to shut it down to sync or maybe when you are forced into slow traffic. it wold be possible to install several 1/4in lines with a small shutoff then one could open is many as they wanted. But then you are to the point you may as well get a V-Boost valve for the $50-$75 and run a manual cable lol. I believe its is a general conciseness with the V-Max guys that leaving the boost open ona STOCK bike does hamper the low end and even cost you 10-15HP. But a lot of them same guys say that with an open exhaust, intake, and rejetting it helps. @ the end of the day I am leaving this MOD on for now to see how it works out on my every day ride.

^^^ thats what I was reading^^^ You havn't steered me wrong in my tinkering yet so far your knowledge has been a great help in my tinkering. I think I can side with you on your comment. ""simulating a smaller vboost setup that is always open......not to bugger up low rpm running"" But I don't know that it is I made it small enough as not to bugger up the carb as much as I made it small enough that it is correctable with jets, but still give a %value of the added flow in upper RPM. If the carbs are 35mm and 3/4in = ~19mm thats ~50-55% more flow potential I have created. Add that to the position of the crossover and I am sure there are some losses as it makes the bend. Also I noted that I am running a dump pipe Vs exhaust and I have opened up my airbox some. This gives my bike more flow than a stock VR and may also be why I am not getting a terrible drawback in low RPM. add that to the fact I am never under 3,000 RPM unless forced to by traffic, parking lot, stops. etc. Maybe some 1200 Vmax heads will make it even better. I have ordered some from E-bay and should be getting them soon. They will spend some time getting cleaned up P&P and copper plated on the outside. So they may not make it on the bike this riding season.

Here is one for you guys who have put the V-Boost on the Venture Royale xvz1300. So if you have not figured me out by now I can't resist tinkering with stuff. Sometimes its a curse and I end up messing up more than I make things better. But this time I may have stumbled onto something worth looking into. The head to carb boots on my engine were looking a bit rough, dry and cracking. So when @ the bone yard I picked up what looked like a set in better condition than what I had. I forget who but someone here mentioned to me that the V-Boost does not actually give more A/F. So I did some reading and found that to be scientifically and verifiable true. Seams what the issue is on the V-max engine is that @ higher flow the carbs or heads (I forget what one) just can't keep up with the flow efficiently enough. The V-boost isn't giving more fuel as much as it is allowing for better flow dynamics. So that got me to thinking about Jasons MOD (connecting 1-2 + 3-4 with a vacuum hose) and my earlier hypothesis that the size of the tube didn't offer a big enough passage to make a major difference. Well being as I have some better boots I thought I would head to the hardware store and do a little experimentation. I just went ghetto and got me some 3/4in copper pipe and some JB weld. After getting home I removed the carbs and got out the trusty old rotary tool. I used a piece of copper tube and cut and shaved it to fit between the boots then marked them. Removed the boots from the engine as to not get anything in the intake and carved out the holes to fit. I then cut 2 new pipes a little longer so they would slide into the boots and reinstalled everything. Sliding the tube in one boot and then back into the other they had an already nice and tight fit without obstructing airflow. I sealed it up with some JB just for good measure. WOW is all I can say. I do have my mufflers off with just a dump pipe after the collector chamber and I am Jetted up on the main with 2x #6 washers shimming the needle. I suffered some low end lag upto the 2000-2500 rpm range and tried to correct by turning out the pilot more and it got a little better. but then there was a little low rpm fit the carbs get when you have the air box off. So I put in a bigger pilot jet and upped the size of the #1 air jet some and it cleaned right up. I had also considered opening up the air hole in the slide some as I think that will help with finally shedding the stock air box but I opted not to until I had a backup set. Now my opinion that it has a LOT more pull, faster throttle response, and it seams to pull threw the RPMs in each gear faster now is purely seat of the pants calibration. and I don't suggest you head out and start punching holes in you boots and try this without something to fall back to. I spend a lot of time the last 2 days changing jets and shims to get it to feel right but I think this could be a promising avenue to pull a little more kick out of the motor without the cost of a full V-Boost add on. in all I spent less than $40 on some pipe, jb weld, and a few jets not counting the backup boots. As $$ permits I will be getting a wideband A/F meter and get in some dyno runs to verify it makes a difference without unacceptable loss in other areas.