VerntureVet

A few things (besides a book) that I find are a MUST when digging into any project this deep when cables, wires, and lots of bolts are involved. Masking tap A Black Perm. Marker (or 6 if you loose them like me) A set of paint marker in a range of colors Zip Ties Zip lock bags Brown Paper Bags A Digital Camera When taking things off you stash the nuts and bolts in zip lock/brown bags and zip tie them to what they came off of when possible. When taking off things that can't be ties to where they came off put them in a bag and label them with a # or color place them on the bike near the location you took them off and snap a pic. Even pointing @ locations when possible. Mask both ends of hoses and the spot they came off and #/label them and take a picture. Set all your parts in a safe spat in order low to high when possible. Let me tell you even if your label on the engine side comes off having a #ed bag or colored tag and a picture to look @ has saved my hours of pain and suffering. The Yamaha parts break down is fairly good even if the do not draw multiple bolts in the same location. I try to # with a color code and match the parts break down as I take things off. It feels like you are taking more time doing this but it can pay off when you are putting things back together a month or 2 from now when you run into the old MAN I never thought I would forget where that came off. I asked someone here what Jets the put in there carbs and even they admitted they never thought they would forget what size they put in but sure enough it slipped his mind after 2 years. P.S. wrot ethis on the tablet and auto correct/complete really mad me sound like an idiot but you get the point to much trouble to go back and correct it all for grammar.

Them Customs bills will get you look out!! I thought I would save on a CPU for my computer and got it from Japan for $30 vs US retail of almost $200. 7 weeks latter I get it all taken care of and in my hands. but not after a customs fee of $225.............

No ship? I learn something all the time on this forum. I have trained myself to shift this bike and expect its PITA attitude since I got it. Dancing around "N" and making a game out of it. Yesterday After reading this I said WTHeck and went out to try messing with it. Just cracking the bleeder with a drain hose on I burped more than a few air pockets out. I kept going and did a full fluid flush, cleaned the reservoir and buttoned it all up. WOW /amazing /clap /smile. All clunky shifting gone and N is no issue finding now. Now I have to relearn to shift this thing as it now just does as it is commanded.

The only thing keeping the forks from bottoming out on a hard bump on these is air? I read here of people putting on springs any idea what part # for some that would work are? Just wondering because I like to run low air in the front and back and I find myself bottoming out a lot. I tend to to get the hammer effect if I pump them up to 15-20 PSI but that's a bit high sometimes for me.

IDK I have an 88 and its a clunky shifter. Like I said its a ***** to get it in "N" after the bike is running unless I am Decelling and shifting drom from 3-2-N. if I accel 1-2 it will not drop into N with slipping all the way to 1st its like a skillfull act to get it. Annoying when I park and have to turn the bike off to get it into N or if at a light I drop to 1st and stop and decide I want to scratch my arse and pick my nose @ the same time its almost impossible to get in N. Maybe its loose pins maybe is some worn spacer.....maybe its an excuse to put in a better tanny the wife may just believe.

When I get in these kind of situations I take it as an excuse to build a bad arse motor. My typical route is to swap in the cheapest yard motor I can find. Even if it is on the higher end of miles and has a few small leaks as long as I can seal it with some gasket maker or JB weld. In the mean time the original motor will get broke down and find some friends @ the machine shop. Good thing is now you can still enjoy your ride while you work on the motor slowly and correctly instead of a $1-2K rush job. When the Hayabusa caught a case of the rod knocks from abuse I went this route. A little port and polish and a deck and bore was worth the wait and trouble. When it was done I actually sold the placholder motor for a couple Hun$ more than I got it for.

60mph on my 88VR is about 3500 rpm so IDK if it worth if for just a couple hun RPM. But the gearing looks a touch better and I would love to not have a sloppy dog shifter any more. Finding "N" when the engine is running and sitting still is impossible on my bike. And sometimes I even have to kick it down into 1st if I am not moving. And I mean literally I have to kick it with the heal of my boot. I am sure my pins are loose. I have been considering the upgrade for it to the pinless wheel this winter. But sounds like a good excuse to put in a new rear end that the wife may just buy. Imay just say to heck with it and drop in a good old 48 cylinder and call it done LOL That thing was as sick as the 350V8 driven bike.

Not to side track from the gasket question seams you have it sorted out. I understand the VMax heads I am considering that this winter myself. What is the + of the RSV trans swap?

Avast is a far better AV if you are looking for a free one. If you want to pay a few $ go with Trend Micro.

The error is coming from the part of the code for the signiture that shows your US states Traveled map.

cosymantecnisbfw is a plugin called by THIS website. The code is added either a user in there signature, by the admin editing the page code, or injected by the host as a text helper. It can also be injected by a link, image, or code referenced form an outside source such as your weather underground link (not that that is it just an example). It is indeed added by Norton Security and other symantic products and is a know issue they refuse to correct. Chrome 42+ has stopped default support for Java and NPAPI plugins by default and this little bug so happens to be based on those protocols. There is a way to correct it in Chrome but I will leave that to you to dig into as it also would re-enable plugin code that Chrome has stopped supporting across the board. There is a reason Chrome, Firfox, and Safari has stopped support for the plugins. Your not missing out on anything other than some back end code error cause by what is likely a user injecting a emoticon or image from some other broken site.

Heading to the Apple Butter Fest in Grand Rapids Ohio Tomorrow. Hope to see you on the road!!

Updated OP to reflect a few changes I remover the gas tank. Moved the battery under the seat Moved the cruise control and everything from the front cowling in the void from the battery under the airbox cover Temp installed a larger airbox cover Temp installed a headlight Installed new mirrors and hand grips with built in marker/turn signals thinned down the seat for a lower ride Flipped handle bars Removed CMU and bypassed its functions installed LED warning lights to for Temp, brake and oil pressure on venture cruise panel installed digital speedo, volt meter and tach on handlebars I also rejeted and installed KN filter and opened up the airbox by adding 3x 3/4in holes in the front opposite the stock inlet and a few other things

I'm with you Jimmy. It's said and done on mine. I do wish it had a little more bite on the rear than it does but its nothing I can't live with intill i get some better disks, calipers, and masters. I do kinda dig the fronts being linked once I got use to the extra braking power.

Roger that when I changed the oil I was on level ground on my center stand. I added enough oil to just see it in the bottom of the sight glass then started the engine let it run a bit and turned it off. once everything settled down I topped it off to just below the top (max) line. I trusted the manual. This guy was very adamant that I was going to blow my motor from too little oil to the point he offered to buy me a quart to top it off. lol.

So Please clear this debate up for Me Vs Another VR owner. The service manual states to add oil run engine then turn it off and check that the oil is between the MIN Max lines in the sight glass. So when I changed my oil I did just that. When the engine is running the pump draws up some of the oil and in the Sight Glass I am just @ the MIN level. Another VR owner was checking out my hack job and tells me that it should be @ MAX when its running. So check the level when running or when not running?

Well its done and @Great White and @Flyinfool thank you both once again. you both can rest easy and not worry about me not having enough breaks. I took the Yammy down to an associates Hydro shop and he was able to cut the right front break hose and crimp on a standard flange fitting as well as cut and install a fitting on the left side. Installed a T and bled them out. Costed $25 in parts and a 12 pack. I have to admit with them fronts linked that's a lot of break HOLLY I was not use to that on the 1st stop.

Well i took off the valve all together and capped it off. I then moved the rear line to the front port Like @Flyinfool sujested. Yes I did have to MOD the mount for the master to get the stock brake line to connect. The rear brakes feel a little weak compared to my other bikes but at least now I get to control my brake balancing. So does the rear port give more braking than the front port? I just assumed with the prep valve off and capped that the front would get all the pressure.

I'm gheto so I use plastic wrap and electrical tape mounting system for a temp mount when I need it. For the Royale convert I am working on a case to mount it on the tank/air box cover using Delrin for a frame with an screen protector epoxyed to it. I get the 7" tablet to sit against the screen protector by using foam under it. The tablet is a Sero 8 Pro costing only `$70 but it does a great job and for the price I don't worry about it getting ripped off or broken if the could even get to it under the frame. the Sero has bluetooth and can Wifi connect to my phone for internet. When internet is not avalable there is an Android App called Offline Maps that works great.

LOL pucker factor. My rear and my leg still hurt. I will get around to linking the 2 fronts to not loose braking power next month when I install new copper braid covered hoses. I have had issues with the way this bike brakes from day 1. I have 3 other bikes and this is the only one that has linked rear/front. I do not discount the reason for it nore do I disagree that it is a good design or does well for what it is intended to do. However one the flip side I don't want to retrain how I ride. The Dry weight on My Harley is 661lbs and it does not have linked brakes but it does have IMO better brakes. I can live with slightly diminished braking for a few weeks to avoid planting my butt on the drive again. Ruined a brand new leather and gloves :-( @Flyinfool You have any visual aids and sizes on what I need from the hardware store to do it?

88 VRoyale Question:: Can I just unscrew that line and not use the feed to the front? Anyone know the size plug I need to block that feed off if it will work? Long winded reason. Ok so I get the point of the front and rear brake combo but I have shaved ~250lbs off my bike and the front brakes working with the rear just don't work for my riding style. I took a little spill this AM on my access road. Lucky for me it was on my gravel drive as I turn into my garage @ only 10mph or so. I admit I was in a hurry and was breaking in a turn fairly hard but them front brakes caught hard enough to slide as I leaned. So from what I read its a 30/70 split with the front not coming in until latter in the push. Looking @ the setup there is a hose coming from the rear master that goes into a rigid line. Maybe latter I will link both fronts together but for now I want to make rear rear and front front. My 1st spill over this linked brake thing but not the 1st slide I have had over it on loose gravel road that I travel a lot to get out of the back woods.

I am not just tinkering here and just because its just a Venture is no reason not to work it all out while I'm off work I need something to pass the time. Last spat of slow work I had 10 years ago I dug my teeth into a 72 Valiant 4 door that had a 318 V8. The stock 230 BHP on paper brand new turned out in 2005 to Dyno out on the tired 90K+ mile engine to be more like 130ish @ the tires. My target for that was 450 @ the wheels and I got Laughed out of the shops. 5 years of work and tinkering including but not limited to bore, deck, 340 head swap with P&P dual 4brl Edelbrock 750s, headers, 2.5 in flowmaster....... After the cams and pistons and all that I was making close to 350 @ the wheels. I dropped on a super charger and had it damn close to 450 when I finally called it good enough to prove I could do it with a 318 block lol. The first LT1 Camaro that thought I just had a cool exhaust and some ego found out what my 4 door sleeper could do. I feel the Ventures 1300 can get 150 ez with some work. When its said and done I can add it to my collection of learning projects in the barn. Maybe next to the 70MPH Schwinn Meridian with the electric hub motors ;-P Most new visitors just look @ them and say What is that thing. I will be able to say "Oh thats a chopped up old Yamaha Venture Royale. Wanna take it for a spin?" LOL Thanks again for the knowledge I hope to put it to good use.

AHHH so the lower pressure caused by the increased speed of the air threw the narrower part of the carb (blue line area) as air passes. Is over come by the Higher Pressure Being drawn in from the wider port opening near the the opening of the carb. But with the venturi boots you are already lowing atmosphere pressure when the carbs draw more volume. So that makes a lot of sense why the carbs trip out with the Venturi boots removed because they are designed (threw the spring) to expect that balance. Taking off the boots throws off the balance and makes them trip out. I would also expect that is why the air box is designed as it is. Now that I have a clear understanding of the CV carb design I am sure if I had a spare set of carbs I could get them on the bench and simulate driving conditions by using vacuum pumps and a PLC. I could then design boot adapters, filters, and air intake pipes that will draw air from just the right place for the diaphragm pilot (yellow line) and the slide hole pressure to be in a proper balance to allow for Ram Air / electric turbo to work and not wig out the carbs. It may require some adjustments to the spring but I should be able to pull it off without modding the carbs @ all less a minor rejet to compensate for the more free flowing exhaust. (that I have already done but I'm talking dyno tuned after roughing it in). @ worst case it may need a logic circuit connected to MAP sensor output and a shuttle valve to change the flow rate or location of the pilot air. Let me track down some working used carbs and see what I can come up with. If I can't get it all to work out I will just 3D print a new intake an make the thing FI with a MegaSquirt. I didn't want to go the full FI route due to the cost of adding all the sensors and having to mess with all the tables to get it all locked down.

@Great White What I meant was measure MAP @ the sync port and pressure prior to the venturi in the airbox and maybe flow into the air box. If I data log those 3 values along with T-Position and RPM I could in effect simulate air flow threw the carbs and cause them to operate as if it was on a running engine. In doing so they SHOULD act the same way as if they was on in engine. Including them wigging out with no air box when flow is increased and the throttle is opened. In doing this I can make a clear airbox and use my slipstream smoke machine to get a look @ the flow inside the BOX and hopefully be able to redesign the air intake to give them the flow they want and need to operate. Fluid Dynamics formulas should allow for a more efficient re-design that takes into account faster more dense air. I see now why the carbs have fits with the air box off. Particularly with the venturi off. As the port hole to the diaphragm is slightly obstructed by the Venturi boot. Thanks for the visualization

I like your hypothesis it is sound, or air tight in this case. So in theory I could take one of the carbs and connect the bottom to a vacuum and force the slides to operate under simulated conditions? As in if I was to record MAP @ the sync port, TP, and RPM along with what gear I am in and maybe MAF. I should be able to get the amount of vacuum under a given TP and simulate that on the bench. @ that point I would be able to bench test different intake setups and make adjustments to the spring to get it to behave. If you think this is a feasible Idea I was already considering looking for some spare carbs to doe a full rebuild and rejet on so I can keep riding while messing with the carbs. I have most of what I would need to simulate it on the bench.