VerntureVet

I have military time, GPS, and GPS speed added to mine with a 7in tablet ;-P But I have also bypassed and removed the stock CMU as its got almost useless once I bypassed the Burn out light warning, and installed digital gauges on the tree for Volts, fuel, temp, and RPM.

I know what you mean trust me. I tried making a new air box a few times and gave up and put the stock one back on. I did take into consideration the CV carbs this time and went on the safe side of just drilling four 3/4in holes on the lid @ the front and both sides. I then plugged all the holes with these 3/4in rubber washers pancaked with 1in washers. So far the best addition to performance without triggering the carbs to have a fit was 3 holes in the lid on the front side opposite the stock intake vents. I know this is a MC and these carbs hate having the air box changed up, but some RAM air on any other carb always helps. I can't believe there is not a way to push more cool fresh air into these things without them tripping out.

IMO it all boils down to experience and rider comfort. And I don't mean how cold the boys get because when riding in cold weather it SHOULD BE common sense to dress the part but just in case remember to dress the part and don't forget about wind chill. My Royale convert will see cold weather this year and in years past the Sportster only came in the living room when there was snow on the roads. Black Ice is something to look out for more so on a bike than a car. Remember some drivers can't even control a car when the roads are slick so watch out for them also. Everyone has brought up a combination of things to consider and I think all are great points. If you want to ride in the cold/wet/snow and you have never done it. Remember to dress for the conditions and on your first few rides take it slow and take short trips. I remember when I was 15 and took my 1st turn over 20mph on a big boy bike. I went so wide I ended up in the grass one the outside of the turn. I learned to counter steer and to not be afraid to lean deep. Now 25 years latter I can take the Hayabusa around a tight 90 turn @ 30-40mph. Take it slow learn how your ride handles in the weather and rain or shine you can be out on the bike. For me when snow hits I break out the road legal Pit Pike and keep on trucking. Its normal for me to do 20K a year or more combined on bikes and the car (when I have one) gets maybe 3k a year if its lucky.

Well last night I went threw the carbs again, installed better clamps on the lower boots, sealed the venturi boot better to the air box, synced the carbs again with my back yard vacuum setup, adjusted the pilot, installed 2X #6 washers on the needle instead of just 1, and put on new coils, wires and plugs. Where did this engine come from is all I could say. It idles real nice now and even with the semi baffled exhaust it is not too load @ all. due to the rejet and exhaust mod I did have to open up the air Box some to let it have more air. That little knock is still hanging out but you can hardly here it now. I thought this engine had pull before OH boy now I have to hold on and dig into the seat to not get tossed off the back. Also consider I have removed close to 250 LBS of weight. Just want to thank everyone here who offered advice and tips to get it to the point it is now.

Thanks for confirmation @Great White. I do just want to break down and get the Ignitech but I can't help but feel that even MAP + TPS could pull the 1300 into a new realm. I have been looking @ the Microsquirt unit. They have confirmed with me that it can be set up without the EFI enabled and just use the Coolant temp, TPS, Air intake temp and spark and advance timing curve. They assured me that Microsquirt can preform as well as Ignitech but it is able to have O2, MAP, and MAF added latter down the road for even more control. On the flip side my riding mower is now run off the Raspberry PI ignition script I messed with. Its kind of nice actually 100% drive by wire now with GPS, bluetooth MP3 and Wifi now. Maybe I will mess around and put on a servo motor for the steering and see if I can GPS mow from my lawn chair with the Android. Just digging for a cheap 7in touchscreen for it :-P. By the time I learn the ins and outs of this Raspberry setup it should be just a matter of tweaking the multi outputs and have it fire the Yammy. I can't wait to get it on the yammy But I need to learn so I don't burn the bike.

250 miles 3.5-4 hour ride. Its getting colder so if we do this I have to roll the dice and hope my box bike makes it and some time sooner than latter. Just don't LOL @ my stripped down Venture Royale. I have a 2" tac on the handlebar and a digital reed speedo because the dash was gone and the speed trashed. I fixed it enough to get the cruise working. I 1/2 do not intend to keep any cowlings on it just the rear hard saddles.

Welp got me four vacuum gauges from Harbor Freight for $20 with a %50 coupon my brother gave me. I connected them with = length fuel hose and each one I put on a vacuum restriction fitting and a copper manifold from pluming. I checked each gauge with a vacuum pump. Changed Oil and replaced 1/2 quart with Lucas Oil Changed plugs and wires Set Idle Synced 1-2 then 3-4 then 4-1. Reset idle Repeated several times until nothing changed. She settled right down and the odd knock is almost gone. I can't tell if it goes away over 3k if it does its not loader than my exhaust any more. Thanks guys someday I will buy a real sync set but these ones I got did the job on a budget. Throttle responce is back but still suffer from slower than expected pull (RPM gain) when WOT. It will get to 60-65 before redline in 2nd but it is defiantly slower to get from 4-7k in any gear @ WOT. I imagine its wanting more air than the stock air box can give it.

@garyS-NJ I did some experimentation over the last few days. I was able to get a Raspberry Pi on a lawn mower engine. The breakout board I have uses relays and they just can't keep up over ~3000 RPM. good enough to switch a Mosfet and run a lawn mower engine. But I will need to get a different board or MOD this on to direct fire the mosfets instead of firing them with the relay. Promising however because all I did was put a hall on the flywheel and fire the ground to a coil and it seams to work great. I moved on to the carb and removed the typical air flapper that speeds the engine back up under load and replaced it with an RC car steering servo. With that I was able to write a script to change the spark advance and trim the engine speed based on engine RPM. I then moved onto installing a servo on the throttle control and used a 1/2 turn pot as a sort of fly by wire throttle position. Its a balancing act in the script to get thing right all the time but I am sure more code can get me what I want. The Mower actually runs better now than B4. I bet with a wifi card and some slick programming I could even get ti to start with an android App. It will be some time before I attempt this on the Yammy but it looks promising and the Raspberry PI should be able to control everything from audio to turn signals if set up. Also as far as aftermarket ignitions the MegaSquirt is pricey and will take some doing to get it to work without the EFI part of it. the Ignetech is a great unit and a few here are using it but if I am not mistaken it can only be set up for either TPS or MAP. I am looking to monitor MAP, MAF, TPS, A/F mixture, speed, and RPM and adjusting spark and advance with those inputs being considered. I don't know if the carbs will like it too much. who know by the time I am done I may just put on the V-Boost and 3D print an intake and make her fuel injected.

I made a form in the shape out of it from hard wood. Then covered it in plastic wrap. Then a thin coat of petroleum jelly. then I dipped that into the rubber coating you can buy to coat tools from the hardware store. About 3 layers. Let harden then remove wood and clean and install.

Ok so In my quest to de-cowling my Venture Royale I bought aftermarket gauges to mount on the tree and handles. Well come to find out the stock speedo has what looks like a reed on it connected to the Venture Cruise I assume for speed monitoring. Is there a way to put on an after market Speedo and still keep my Venture Cruise? The on I picked up is not cable driven rather it has a magnet that goes in the brake rotor and a pick up on the fork. Anyone ever convert to digital speedo and keep the Venture Cruise?

I know its not a Harley I opted for the Venture because I live in a burb and every other nose upper has a new model Harley and thinks wearing a leather vest and cut off chaps, gloves make them a bad boy (no offence the that crowd) I just wanted to be different so I got an old Yammy. Now I was not aware of the low RPM distaste the 1300 has. As this is my first metric bike and my first 4cyl. I assumed you want to be in the lower RPM ( I guess less 4/5th if me with the new pipes, rejeting and cleaning 1500-to 2000 is what I can cruise on @ 35MPH. Now I can stop being paranoid that there is a bearing about to spin out on me. Thanks again @Flyinfool

I just went threw this after a carb rebuild. Would Idle high ~1500rpm some times and some times it would calm down. Like @Flyinfool stated you are best off with the pin point straw and hitting areas like the head to carb boot joint. then the boot to carb. and then move onto the airbox boots. Cleaning all that up for me caused more issues than it solved. The stock air cleaner boot clamps stretched I guess over the years and would not tighten hard enough even though they was bottomed out. Had to replace them with hose clams. Also the boots got a little loose where they have the ridge that locks into the air box. I had to put a couple wraps of black electrical tape on them to get them to seal good. On top of that sync screws got out of wack and still would not let the idle come down till proper vacuum and sync was obtained. If the PO said something I would not take it as being done proper most of the time. Even if the carbs were "CLEANED" last year to some that means spraying carb cleaner into the cabs. To others that means taking them apart and doing a soak and spray. Also remember some people are not clean freaks. A lot of times old gunk and crud gets overlooked by a rider and in years that crud is sealing and holding things in place. A proper cleaning can lead you to find sometimes other adjustments got made to adjust for the crud deep in the system. Cleaning said crud can make things work better in one area and those overlooked things now become an issue. With that in mind my cruddy carbs had sync screws opened up to make up for the nasty build up that was obstructing flow. cleaning them threw them out of wack.

I was out last night and noticed a knocking sound once my bike was warmed up. Seams to happen when idling or under low load in 1/2 like when your trying to keep it @ 10mph in parking lots. Seams to go away once on the throttle until you hit the sweet spot cruising RPM around 2000-2200rpm. Some old timer @ the pit stop said it sounds like just normal engine clatter prob from the Gen mesh gear and lower end caused by the loppy idle and that V-Twins almost all have a knock sound once you CAM and Jam them and thats why Harley have a load exaust to cover up the engine knock lol. He said not to worry about it. I was afraid it was a rod knock but but it always goes away when you rev in N or once you take off over 2k rpm. Normal?

I figured it out. @ first I was disappointed because I went threw all this math to choose a ball park jet pack. I got out on it this morning and figured I would unshim my needle because I am Jetted up and maybe the needle shim was too much with the bigger jets. A long shot since it was a idle high idle. I found that I forgot to tighten the diaphragm cover screws on one of the carbs. I want ahead and un-shimmed it any how. I also put back on the semi-unbaffled mufflers. All that brought it back in line. I think I made too many changes @ one time so I will roll the way it is now for a week and maybe see what putting the shims back on do for the pickup they seamed to give with the stock jets. I find these Mikuni carbs to be super temperamental when you change flow rates. I still want to change the air intake and filter box but the carbs do not appear to like more air. On a side note I have ordered a Microprocessor for winter month experimentation of building unit that will allow for monitoring the pickup coils, MAP, Mass Air, RPM, V-Boost Position, and TPS. If time permits over the winter I hope to be able to monitor conditions and how they affect the engine running. Ultimately I want to integrate a Mosfet driven ignition. But I have to figure out these carbs and there little quirks. I have never worked with MC carbs nore have I ever messed with a carb that just hates air so much. I am almost to the point of adapting a holly 750cfm 4 barrel and seeing what it will do lol.

http://www.seoulsemicon.com/_upload/Goods_Spec/HR335.pdf I have 15 of these in a tail light with an additional 15 for the brake light driven off of a $1 store 5V USB charger. When shining onto the red tail reflector they are very noticeable in the day time and almost too bright @ night. To will need to mount them to a circuit board or something suitable. I used 1/4in Delrin and epoxy I just happened to have all the bits laying around but the total cost would have been around $4

88 venture royal. Straight drag pipes Stock collector Stock air cleaner with KN filter So she was popping after hard WOT or heavy throttle say in 3rd and then letting off the gas, with power loss when WOT as the mains kicked in. I got me some 135 main jets and gave the carbs a nice cleaning. After getting her back together I backed the Idle screw all the way off the stop and when warmed up it is sitting around 1300-1400. When blipping the throttle it is slow to come back to the 1300-1400. I can get moving in 1/2 and let go of the throttle and it will idle in gear and not stall @ 1000RPM. The popping when coming off heavy throttle is gone and the bike feel like it wants to rip the asphalt right off the road when @ full twist. The Flat low power pull I had when in 4/5th WOT is gone and the bike wants to just throw me off the azz end from the powerful pull. I thought maybe a vacuum leak but went threw an entire can of carb cleaner spraying around the intake and carb with no noticeable change in RPM. i have messed with the pilot screw and synced it 20 times. Other than the higher than normal idle it runs like a rocket on 2 wheels. Any feedback would be great. Only thing I can think is that with the drag pipes and new jets she just wants to idle faster like a crotch rocket. Or I could be laim. What do you guys think?

Yup a wide band sensor is on my list I found a few in the $150 range. as for the Jetting I think I will just be tossing in a set of jets and chopping a couple plugs to get it in the ball park for now. Define loud. I never got around to MODing the chamber but looking into it from the outlets I can see right thru to the front pipes leading to it. But I do still see the mesh that is in there and im sure the baffle that separates the left and right is still in it. So I guess its kinda like a muffler....? My father in law lives next door and he has a 2002 flh dyna glide low rider. What I assume are after market pipes. I know for a fact he has baffles you can see them. His Bike is still loader then mine when idling. Maybe I am louder than him if I get into the throttle hard but its hard to tell. I don't make a habit of getting past maybe 1/3 twist because I still fear my mains are real lean with no mufflers. What I did was remove the mufflers and installed a 1 3/4 to 2" adapter. Then on that I installed a 12" tail pipe with an angle cut and turn down. Next time I am @ Menards I am going to pick some stuff up to put in an adjustable flow restriction of some sort.

@stanG I updated the OP to include wire colors sorry I missed that in my LED rant. Tie Together the Green/White + Blue/Black + Blue/White Tie Together Yellow/Green + Blue/Red Tie Together Black + LightGreen This will allow the High Beam light to work and let the light dimmer on the handle bar change from between Hi and Low Beam The Yellow wire if for the White Head Lamp Out Indicator and is no longer useful.

@zagger My Venture is far from stock and I also have taken off most of the plastics. and soon the front upper cowling will be gone as well. I have tried to mess with the filter and intake with poor results. Do you recall what jetting you went with? Did you re jet the pilot and change needle or just the Main Jet? I am still working off plug inspection until I get a Wide Band EGA and I am petty far out on the pilot and the needle is shimmed out with just one washer. It still looks and feels a little lean but not valve burning lean so I am considering upjetting the pilot so I have more room to play with it. I will be re jetting the mains this week as soon as I settle on a jet size and see if I can clean up my WOT leanness. With the exhaust dumped right after the combination chamber having no muffler and the desire to Mod the intake I am thinking about going with a 140 main then messing with the intake and then dial it in from there.

@zagger any chance you have a buddy or something @ a shop with a dyno? I would be interested in how opening the boost under 5k changes the power curve. Did you Rejet the carbs @ all? Its back and forth with theory and application on if even a small amount of crossover @ low and mid range is hindering or helping.

So I have it backwards I'm working off google here lol. I know what you mean. Maybe the carbs when on pilot need the vacuum for the pilot to work properly. What it all boiled down to was a lesson learned by me about MC engines and carbs. I have given into the fact I need to spend some $ on jets and a wide band air fuel sensor and rejet to rid my slight lean condition @ WOT. The bike has plenty of power no matter what I do and what gear I'm in but when WOT in 4th or 5th you can tell the main jets kick in with a noticeable change in the sound of the engine. almost like I just dropped a 100lb weight off the ass end but no noticeable change in pickup. Thanks for letting me prob your brains guys. This is my 1st tinker toy. In the past it was always a car. When you just bolt on some new parts and toss in a new tuner box. And that was on a 96 Mustang when you can just basically clone someone elses setup and get more HP with worrying about all the tinkering and jetting. When this adventure is all over for me I will be obligated to keep the Yammy like I kept my 1st tinker car (1972 Valiant 318)

Interesting read. After reading that I did some digging on the Mikuni CV carbs and found his hypnosis about carb efficacy went boosting @ low RPM to be fairly accurate. At the lower vacuum the Mikuni carbs are designed to run off the pilot jets and the mixture is dependent on vacuum as much as it is by float levels. The amount of vacuum directly effect this circuits operation and fuel mixture. Connecting the 1/2 and 3/4 under lower vacuum actually will split the vacuum over both carbs making them not run under designed flow rates. The gained fuel from the 2nd carb is trumped by the less efficient carb operation. resulting in a loss of power in the low and low to mid range operation when the pilot circuit is doing most of the work. in the mid and mid to high range the slide opens with the needle allowing more air flow but the pilot is still a key part of the operation @ this point. Its not until the slides and needle are fully open the main jet kicks in and although the pilot is still delivering fuel its effect is less critical to the mixture. Also in the WOT high RPM >5500-6000 vacuum is no longer an issue with the slides fully open and the engine drawing harder the cross over vacuum is high enough and the split is less noticeable to the main jets than it is with the pilot that is dependent on vacuum to operate properly as designed. This read and research has lead me to can the V boost ideas untill I can do it fully with a stock or self made black box. This also made me head out and take off Jason's Mod because even though its a 1/4 in tube I am sure it has a direct effect on the pilot operation in a negative way. On a side note during all this I noticed that with my choke fully off the 3/4 choke plungers were still pulled out 1/8in and the 1/2 were fully closed. after adjusting the linkage I re synced and the plugs are heading more brown than b4. Amazing how something so small being over looked made me want to change the bike. Under 3/4 twist now she is kicking ass. Just have to get into the carbs now and get those mains changed.

Maybe I will be sneaking in some new heads. I would love to bore it out this winter also but finding pistons is a PITA. But I assure you if they are out there I will find them. I am not a speed idiot and I am hardly ever on the twist past 1/2. But I like to know I have it if I want it + the ability when talking about the old hack job I can say. "Yea its kinda odd looking but it has balls LOL" I also did some thinking about the V-Boost and if I am going to do it I will do it properly with a black box. Be it stock or custom. In the mean time I think I will fab up a cross over out of delrin that has an adjustable flow. should keep me busy a couple days and out of yalls hair with my silliness.

Sounds interesting was just my brain thinking the fuel from the 2nd carb would add to the A/F mixture ratio but Great White sparked a further thought. Same vacuum amount split over 2 carbs may just = the same amount of fuel until a high enough vacuum is created to demand more fuel than the stock single carb could provide. I suspect this is why V-Boost does not come on until higher RPM to avoid the midrange issues and open when there is enough vacuum to make a difference. I would be interested in what the bike would do with it open all the time. I would not mind that lopping big cam idle sound. I wouldn't mind a more aggressive cam in general but I didn't find a lot of Venture Royale aftermarket parts. Maybe a V-Max cam is the best we can get. I guess if I had an intake to toy with worst case I just leave it closed until I track down the rest of the V-Boost parts on the cheap. As soon as I get back to work full time I will be getting a wide band A/F meter and we will just find out how this all works out. I may be reaching a bit far but I would love to see my project crest 150HP if not dream for 200HP without putting in a motor from another bike lol.

Actually after taking off the tank last night I may have found a solution. Just going to mount some flex guard hose like the brake line has onto the drive shaft and make the crossing there.