Flyinfool

I am not facebook literate.....

Bob musta broke it good this time.....

While he was welding the bike to the truck he could of at least had the bike on the center stand instead of the side stand..........

I don't have any pics, but I probably can get some.

As I mentioned earlier, replacing the diodes is only a preventative measure for a working TCI. New diodes will never bring back a TCI that has already failed.

Nylon looks like new. Tires are 12 inch. Tires look like new. I did not see any cracking on the tires, but they are 20 years old. There is a spare and a 4 way wrench included ...... Actually the trailer is 13 miles south of me, so it is even closer to Rockford. If you were to buy it I could help you get the wiring to match your bike. The trailer has a 6 pin round connector on it but is a 5 wire setup. 6th pin is not used. If anyone is interested let me know quick, he wants to list it on Craig's list to be able to sell before Sturgis.

That came up as an ad to say that that the harleytechtalk domain name is available with lots of links to other websites.

I was out to look at a Bunkhouse camper last night. it is a 93 that has only been used 5 or 6 times. Everything on it looks like new. It even has the added "den" room. It looks to be a great deal asking $1500 and I know he will come down on that. Unfortunately Is is not in the cards for my budget right now. If anyone here is interested let me know, It has not been advertised anywhere yet but will be soon, it is priced to sell. The seller is someone that I know Locally.

But does this website have enough bandwidth to handle a Harley tech section?

As mike said you have more than one issue going on here. A good battery should be able to run the bike for more than 30 minutes before it starts spitting and sputtering and things stop working even with a completely failed charging system. Slow cranking when hot is a common trait for this bike. There are fixes for this available. If the battery was so low that the bike would not run, then it would not have enough juice to crank at all. As mentioned you have to start trouble shooting at the beginning. Check the electrolyte levels in all of the cells of the battery and top off with distilled water if any are low. Charge the battery up fully and check the voltage as described above. Take the fully charged battery in to a shop to get it load tested to be sure that it is good. Once you get all of this done so that we know where we are starting from, we can guide you on the next steps from there. All of these steps do not cost money yet.

Maybe that is why I have been sitting in chat all alone.

Clutch coud be anything from shot to just needing to be bled, or just need a new spring. Bleeding and bad spring are very common and simple to fix issues. AS for smoking, that could be major engine issues to a bad seal.

I have had bad MAF that did not throw a code, just stopped running with no clues.

Here is a thread on the diodes. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767 Once the diodes actually fail they take out a custom IC that is not available. The diode replacement is only as a preventative measure on a working TCI.

There are 8 diodes in the TCI that are known to corrode and fail. They are round blue and gray. This is a common issue. There are several threads on how to do this repair. The diodes can be replaced with any 1N400X diode.

By just removing the bottom of the 3 springs you now have the equal of the stock trailer with the 8" wheels. Take out the other spring so that there is just one on each side. I looked at flipping the axle to the top of the spring to lower the trailer, but this would have required making new fender mounts to keep the tires from rubbing on the fenders when loaded or hitting a bump in the road. With the 12" tires it might be worth it to get the trailer more level. In my 8" tire I have found 20 PSI to be the best. Fully loaded and at the end of a tank of gas at interstate speeds the tires and bearings were still cool to the touch. I could probably go a little lower yet on air pressure. Mine bounced like crazy with 2 leafs, the single leaf and lower tire pressure got rid of the bounce even when empty. I am still looking at adding the 7" electric brakes from R&P Carriage, and of course, more lights. But then, now I might have a line on a Bunkhouse in which case I will be selling this trailer.

It appears that he has a new website and email address. His contact info is on the website. the web site only lists collectors for the vmax. But maybe if you ask nice and get out your wallet he will make one to fit your bike. http://marksperformance.com/

So what was blowing the fuses, the relay or the switch or??????

The other question is how much of that .4 gallons was gas that got sprayed out as you were pounding on the tank. I don't know if I would risk a spark on a full tank of gas for an extra 18 miles. When traveling I carry an emergency 1 gal gas can.

Here is what the schematic on a relay with a diode looks like. They show the diode across the coil and also have marked pins 85 and 86 with (-) and (+).

Dan you do know that you could have just marked out where the trench needed to be and then called certain people on this site and told them there was Ice Cream buried some where along that line. You would have had a trench in no time at all......

First do the ohms test with the relay disconnected. If it passes that test, then do the voltage test with everything connected and the switch on and the ignition on. Bike does not have to be running

There are a bunch of different correct ways to wire this up. I am trying to work with what you have to figure out where you went wrong.

The resistance should not be 0, set your meter to read ohms, set it on the lowest scale, and recheck 85 to 86 with the wires removed from the relay terminals. If it still reads 0 both ways, then you have a bad relay. resistance should be between 75 and 200 ohms If resistance is good. Set meter to read volts on a scale that can read 12V, most likely will be 20V scale. Connect the black lead of the tester to the negative terminal of the bikes battery. Then using the red lead of the tester, check the voltage on all 4 terminals of the relay with the switch in the on position.

Next time throw the shovel up the hill, you won't have to walk so far to get it.