Flyinfool

The tach drive is before the coils so it points to something other than the coils. If you do have access to a known good TCI, Then it is easy to swap in the new one for testing. The wires are long enough to put the new one on top of the air cleaner. Getting the old one out is a bear, It is common to relocate the TCI to a more friendly location, The factory was nice enough to make the wires plenty long for a lot of places to put the TCI.

That was gonna be my next question; Is this a realistic project to do at Dons MD? When you did yours at Squidleys, Did you take the whole front end apart in pieces, or pull it as one big assembly?

I have decided it is time. I finally found a smooth enough section of road to be able to feel the notchyness in the bearings. And I did not like it. This is also likely the reason that the bike feels very unstable in a sweeping turn. So my first round of questions are; 1. The service manual says to remove the front wheel, fender, brace and fork tubes. Is this really necessary or can this all be removed as an assembly and reinstalled as an assembly? I realize it will be heavy. 2. I plan to replace the stock springs with progressives at the same time. This will allow the front wheel to be on the ground and the suspension to easily compress to get the head apart, I think? Thoughts? 3. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the head for a grease Zerk while I am in there, Yes it takes a lot of grease the first time to fill the neck, but it will make future greasing a LOT easier. Opinions? 4. I do not have a lift nor do I have room for a lift in my little shed. Is it realistic to do this on the center stand? 5. Does anyone know where that nice safe place is that I put my special spanner for torquing the nuts for the bearing preload...............

I have read a few posts of using 12.5wt oil as the magic bullet. When I do my springs I plan to mix a quart of 15 and 10 together to get the 12.5. I am also planning to install the anti dive block off plates. While you were doing all of this did you also do the steering head bearings? I just decided that I need to add them to my list.

On Saturday May 7th I saw a black RSTD with a female DRIVER, wearing a pink helmet and pink back pack and black jacket. Headed east on Layton Ave going into Cudahy WI. Anyone we know here?

When I needed paint for my 88 I just took a saddle bag lid to the local place that mixes paint for the auto body shops and they color matched it and mixed up a pint. There is a good chance that the original paint may have faded a bit and that getting the "correct" color may not match exactly.

As Yamagrl said, the tach is the giveaway. The tach is driven from the signal that goes to the #2 ignition coil. The act that the tach is not working means that there is no signal being sent to the #2 coil. That is solid proof that you do have a "VOODOO magic" electrical issue. At least is is not fuel and carb, to me that is the VOODOO area. Electrical is easy you can test most things. As mentioned start by making sure all of the connectors in the ignition circuits are clean and free of any corrosion.

I'm already there, All Alone............................. Waiting for my Pizza to show up.

Even if it is welded it is still removable, with the right tools.

2nd gens need more light in the rear so the 1st gens don't run them over. So far i have 538 LEDs and I still have over 1000 more to mount, somewhere. No such thing as too many, UNLESS, you have them arranged or set up in a way that could confuse the driver looking at them. If some one is not sure of what your intentions are they may guess wrong and take you out even though they can see you.

I have never been in there, I was just looking at the pictures posted here. that is why I said I don't know if it can be done. If you start to loosen that nut and retaining clips and the bearing is following them out, STOP, or that big spring is gonna get ya.

I did back of after that one tank at that speed. It was a 35 gusting to 50 head wind that fortunately was exactly straight head on, so at least it was not blowing me all over the road. As for your Daughter learning about DQs............... I can be bribed................

Dang:mo money:

And then there are the MBC riders (Marshmallow Butt Club) like myself that will not do more than 100 miles at a stretch. So 1000 miles will have at least 10 stops almost regardless of speed. 2 years ago I did have one stretch while in a hurry to get home I had the cruise set at 80 on the interstate with a good headwind and was down to 18 MPG for that tank. That tank did not even make my 100 mile limit I NEEDED gas after just 80 miles so add in 3 more gas stops bringing it up to 13 gas stops to go 1000 miles at 80 with a headwind. Even though I slowed down I still stopped about every 100 miles or less. Note in Indiana there is a DQ in every rest stop so I have to stop every 32 miles.........

I did send a note to Freebird that Randys thread on how he fixed his broken frame may a good candidate to get its pictures restored.

Here is another one I see came up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1521-83-Broken-frame Thanks

Silly question time. Do you have a GOOD soft copper crush washer on the bottom middle gear cover bolt? My first step in tracking an oil leak is always to start with a good cleaning. I use Gunk Engine Degreaser, Original, unless it is really bad then I use the Heavy Duty or the Gel. Use a chip brush or old paint brush to work the degreaser in good and loosen the thicker dirt.

So offer him $500 with 5 nice $100 bills in your hand. Depending of course on the condition of the bike. Some times you just never know how bad they want it to go away.

Ummmm Yes we were. I was there from 8:30 to 9:30 central time. I don't know what time the other got there, they were there before me.

I think I see another Venture coming up for sale in the $40K range...............

I would have been the poor guy in the lowly Cessna.................. That reminded me of this old story, Even though this one is not true it is still a good story.

If you are worried about it you can always offer to pull one of your spark plug wires so that the Harley can keep up....... Our carbs being vacuum operated mixture control has the effect of altitude compensation. Unless you have rejetted or made other modifications to get everything possible out of your engine you will be fine.

Those pieces are from the ball retainer, I originally thought you meant the outer ring of the bearing came apart. I have seen a lot of ball retainers fail over the years. I never saw or heard of it in one of our bikes, but I have seen it on a lot of bearings in other applications. The 2 halves of the retainer are usually spot welded together in between each set of balls, it only takes one weak weld to start the failure in progress. Once one weld fails the next ones are under a much higher load and also soon fail, once it starts it all happens pretty quick. I don't know if it can be done, but it almost looks like you could get that bearing out, and a new one in, without pulling the engine or splitting the case. Even if you can get the bearing out, you would need to put the jigsaw puzzle of bearing pieces back together to be sure that all of the parts are accounted for, any one piece that would be left in the transmission and found its way in between 2 gears would be a very bad thing.

Well then Happy Birthday. Hmmmmm A root beer float, I hope you have some to share with the rest of us in chat.............. We wouldn't want to have to send out the to go and investigate the .

I have never heard of this happening, the only thing I can think of is it was a defective bearing. Can you get pictures of the bearing and pieces that came out? Are you sure it is the bearing and not something else coming apart?