garyS-NJ

Great price if is stainless. Hard to tell from link Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

My '84 is slow to kick in also Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I put one of those heavy starter clutches in a bike but haven't got it running yet. But it cranks . Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I'm such s dope.. I got a good look during the day with my glasses and saw with pedal pressure, it was leaking at the rear line connection (where the proortioning valve used to be). So I left my goofy Teflon taped bolt alone. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Different tires have different tread depths and perhaps larger (wider) tires of the same make/model have proportionally deeper tread depths. MU vs MT is a width difference. Moreover, while there is a range of widths for a particular aspect ratio (90% here), there is an optimum width at particular aspect ratio and at this width, the angle of the sidewall with respect to the contact patch is "reasonable". Folks like to it fat tires on without regard to the sacrifice in handling as that sidewall angle gets ugly. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Oh and I love my shink o 230 tourmasters on my xj550 but not sure I like the shink o 777's on my '84 VR. I get some snake weave at high speed as the tire does not feel stable (especially with air in front fork). In the tires defense tho, this is my first venture (& first set of tires on it) & I still need to check shock and swing arm mounts. & I've used motorcycle superstore and revzilla for tires. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Its late here but isn't the diff between an mt90 and an mu90 the width? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Nice bikes!! I'm looking at a '94 Vmavx now selling for $3400 Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I bought an ignitek. Its programmable but works great as received from dingy Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yes, I still want one Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I noticed considerable more snaking with the front air set to auto low as compared to manual deflated. And I had the rear at medium Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Nice and the only one like it on eBay.. Do you know the mfr? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I delinked my brakes last year and things have been well but since de-linking, my rear had a very wooden feel (pedal hard feel with little travel from off to tire skidding). In my delink, I plugged the port for the front brake line and ditched the proportioning valve to put the rear brake line on that port. Last week I did some front end work and on my test ride found the rear brakes dragging. turns out the piston in the rear brake master was stuck (first it was dragging and then at some point, I couldn't get pressure to the caliper!). So I unstuck the brake master piston and cleaned it out and reassembly and bleed and I had brakes for a very short ride. then the pedal went down and no brakes. So I bled again and got air out again for a firm pedal feel but again it went soft, no back brake. At this point I'd be sure to have a brake fluid leak but I washed it after each bleed and the brake pushrod is dry.. I'm having a hard time believing that the brake fluid is squishing past the piston and not leaking out and also hard to understand how I get air in there without any fluid out.. I found rebuild kits on ebay for $70 but I was wondering if a later brake cylinder could be installed for better performance and cheaper rebuilds. And I guess air could be leaking into my Teflon taped bolt plug but I would think that I would more likely see fluid leaking out there..

I know this an old thread but here goes.. On my '84 Venture I have a high speed weave snaking instability. This with new tires (shinko 777's), progressive springs, neck bearing adjusted,.. Got to check that rear shock bushings and swingarm bearings tomorrow but figure I should get a superbrace, or a condorbrace, or a Bob Meyers VZ Brace... But the Superbrace is now up to $160 so I'm trying to get a lower price.. There's plenty of stock fork braces on ebay so I'm figuring many people are installing super braces.. suggestions?

Do you ride " fast" on the highway?? And what about fork springs& air pressures? I think I bought the 777 instead of the 230 because it looked like a better rain tire. And I read somewhere better mileage than the 230 (& I assumed the higher price then would make sense). Looking again I see the Dunlop elite 3s have higher load rating (especially the front) and I wonder if my shinko front is just getting squishy and causing the weave snaking Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I had working linked brakes and then delinked and removed the proortioning valve and then immediately notice the wooden feel to brakes. Very on or off, easy to skid. Because the master used to serve two calipers with the back off the proportioning valve. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yes, air sets height, oil viscosity sets dampening. Increasing oil volume will make a progressivly stiffer shock as it compresses Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I'm assuming I pulled stock springs out of my '84 but they didn't look much different than my progressives (progressives have a tighter wind on one end) So I put stock amount of fork oil in and neglected to measure oil height .. Ride doesn't feel overly harsh in general but in trying to "feel" how much better the front might be eating the road, is swear I might have felt some sticksion in the tubes. And at a stop when I work the forks up and down I can now hear the springs rattling like ching ching... I didn't hear that with old springs Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I just put progressives in my '84 with manual specified amount 405cc of 15w fork oil and have no pogo.. And it doesn't feel hard at all up front. (I don't know what kind of oil or springs were in there but it does feel a little softer over bumps but not squishy at all (firm at speeds through dips and turns. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Measuring how much comes out also tells you if you have a seal leak. I just installed progressives in my '84 & forgot to measure what came out and now see one seal slightly leaking.. (Bought bike last year and didn't see a fork oil leak). Btw, for filling, I didn't do any level measuring.. I just added the 405cc per manual spec. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I think air in the system could only make them feel soft or squishy Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

How would I check for side to side movement? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I think I had similar compression variation after I got my motor unseized and I was chasing down carb and ignition problems. My carb bowls and jets were full of gunk and Tci would not advance the spark (& I tested and swapped boost sensor). Some of my plug wire caps were bad too. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

And I don't know what weight or amount of fork oil was in there (should have checked volume ). But I put in 400cc of 15w fork oil Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I didn't get to noticing high speed snaking with the original dry rotted tires from th PO. Because I wasn't confident to ride fast or much on them. But bumps or grooves would make the bike change course with those tires and that much better now with my new shinko 777's. But think ill try the elites (or avons' next time... Did you say Avon has issues?) Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk