garyS-NJ

My first gen toppled over the kick stand on a hill as I was stopped loaded with gear and a passenger. Nothing broke and I didn't notice any scratches (on sure there was something..,) Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Pvc pipe inside the pods Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I don't think air boxes are designed to create a restriction so much as to create dead air (a constant pressure) around a velocity stack which gets the proper air velocity past the jets. I put pic tubes inside my local pods on an old suzi with vm26 carbs and it helped immensely. I also partially shielded each pod with foil tape. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Are c.v. carbs more sensitive then old slide carbs like a mikuni vm26 Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

If he's buying the ignitec, he could leave the to in there if the mounting screws present a problem. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Video was boring af. Suggest get the go running and the stop and rude it without a seat to see if it could be comfortable with a custom seat. After that if you want to get crazy, take off the tail section. (& fuel tank?)and it will look like a drag bike. Idk how it would be riding lime that but you could fab a seat and rear fender on that. Then maybe stacks on the carbs (yes everyone will say it won't run but I bet it could with jetting and change the muffs. Yep, then the handlebars and that mess up front with the fairing goes. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Nope. And others will chime in. On my '84, I took out my tci to troubleshoot and definitely didn't remove main front fairings (although my front lowers and sides were already off). It was some work with a short Phillips head I think or maybe a right angle Phillips drive. I removed the airbox and got in from the carb side. But if you are just gonna install the ignitec ignition, you need only get the cabling off to connect to the to ignitec harness. The ignited mounts on too of your airbox and you will need to get a map sensor with it. Dingy was selling a kit with the ignited programmed with his map and included the harness and map sensor. All plug and play. I bought the connector so I could modify the ignition curve but never felt I needed to do it (the only thing I should do at minimum is make the rev limit higher, I think its at 7400 from dingy and I would go 8100, I think 8500 is safe but pushing it. Buy I,g direct from ignitec i don't know what curve you get Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Now I know if my 4 brush starter wears out, I can upgrade my cables and put the 2 brush back in!!! Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I bought heavy cable and lugs along with a 4 brush starter and after testing the starter alone found I didn't need to upgrade my cables. Bike starts hot or cold easily every time but this isn't to say that it wouldn't crank faster with heavier cables. That said, a 2 brush starter has no business in any of these bikes and its a wonder to me that Yamaha wasn't forced to do a recall (or is that only safety issues). I saved my 2 brush starter because people sell them on eBay but why would anyone buy one? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

And solder and crimp lugs. Never seen a cable corrode to a battery terminal. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

That last Vegas trip didn't look fun. You made a tough decision sound logical. I wonder the same sometimes but more if ill be hanging up my helmet because I'm dead or I can no longer ride. I had another accident last year and my neck is bothersome and it makes my throttle hand go numb while riding. Now even short rides its going numb and its stiff and I'm getting a little nervous riding within 30 miles of my home because its so traffic dense (& I hate to say it but seems the drivers are worse now then ever). good that you are staying connected to the group tho because its a good group and people need people. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Does the bracket not have the pin in the same place?& Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I could have sworn that after delinking, my rear brake was touchy and would skid with moderate pedal force. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I didn't think I made that up about our ventures. If its raining good and hard tomorrow, ill try to isolate caliper or line for the hard braking and overkill or return or caliper or line for the dragging. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Fluid expands when hot and I thought we had a venture rider solved his dragging brakes with a spurt out the bleeder. And I can't see the sightglass in reservoir. And certainly the return hole will keep them dragging. But neither will make it harder to stop. I'll work on a caliper. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Took her for a test ride and same scrappy rear brake AND it was dragging pretty bad. I kicked the caliper and the dragging got much better but still there a little. I know that could be excess brake fluid in the reservoir or that return hole partially plugged. I'm gonna clean that return hole and try it again but I think the caliper needs service... Wondering if the r1/r6 calipers are more reliable.. Another though just came to mind tho if the brake line is collapsing, or clogged, that would produce both symptoms.. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

The r1 r6 calipers don't fit my '84 brake mount. I have an '86 mount somewhere here but ill do that next time I find the mount. For now I just popped off the caliper to verify both pucs were actuating. They were but took mega force to squeeze them back. I cleaned with energy cloth, rinsed, wire wheeled, buffed, and associated the pins and a smear of hi temp grease. New ebc hh pads and she's not dragging. Test ride tonight but I think maybe my master isn't putting full pressure somehow but to my recollection, that should make for a fading squishy pedal... Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

So that's a blue for rear caliper with your stock mk2 caliper mount? Does it make more stopping power than stock caliper? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Well with the replacement caliper seemingly in working order (it was sitting so I didn't want to bench check action on both pucs for fear of the grunge making it hard to retract them for a say onto the disc.. (Yes, lazy, in a rush)), I slapped it on, bled, and test rode and it wasn't much better! Brake was initially dragging but after a test ride down hills and stamping on the brakes to get short skids, that loosened up but it still requires a lot of pressure to get a skid. I've only seen master cylinders fail by leaking or getting squishy so I'm incli ed to think one or both pics aren't actuating well but how could that be without them dragging. Oh and the pads looked ok. I checked my spare r6 front calipers and the look a litesmaller and bolt pattern wider. A,home know if the mk2 rear brake mount will hold an r6 caliper and is that an upgrade for more stopping power? I think brakes should lock when asked. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I'm delinked so with stock rear master, the line that was going to the front is now plugged and I ditched the proportioning valve. After that the rear was very touchy or with a "wooden" feel. Just took off the rear caliper and looks like one of the pucks is frozen in so I swapped with a spare and going for brake fluid.. (Haha, mystery solved when you actually look at something). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Tim got it right on here. I delinked my 84 because was such a pain to bleed, and the brakes sucked, and I want more control on grass, dirt, gravel... And my blue dots work well with an '86 master. Is there a consensus on best front master to run with blue dots? And will one of them pinch my rear? I have an extra set and my rear brakes are sucking. It felt like wood after delinking but now I have to stand on them to skid and its not spongy.. Like theres oil on the pads. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

You might get another 30k or 130k. How much? Valve lash check maybe 30-40k but if it runs good, its good for now. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Are you suggesting that the graphite wires have a higher inductance than copper wires? And I still don't think the 5k drops significantly less voltage than the 10k (maybe 1/2 but..) as its thousands of volts across the plug to jump the gap. And then why wouldn't oem use the 5k ohm? But like I said, I'm out of my,knowledge base here so,I shouldn't be commenting on,the engineering, but for sure I remember the 5k vs 10k affects the secondary voltage wave shape (noise). Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

There must be some basic research cited and actual test results for using 5K vs wok ohm plug caps. I was looking close at this when I first got my venture and found some bad caps. I remember there was a guy on a forum who could talk about 5k vs 10k ohm caps and since some of our venturerider heavy hitters already weighed in here I'm gonna say it was Hondaman on a cb750 forum.. The resistor forms an LR circuit with the coil and will do something like earlier longer or later shorter. I don't think it has anything to do with the. "Voltage" or "heat" of the spark because the spark jumps when the spike reaches the voltage required to jump the gap. The coil secondary is a pulse or approximate square wave and im pretty sure the inductor starts as an open (resists current change) and ends as an almost short and is charged at a rate proportional to the resistor (wire and cap). And of course proportional to the input (coil primary) pulse. So I think bigger plug cap resister gets later discharge (and idk if its longer)... But I might be wrong here and plug wire might be the inductive element of concern. There's some research on this I remember looking at but I can't now because my head hurts from thinking (& I need to work). And someone mentioned copper core wires..the graphite wires are there for radio noise suppression, the spark has more rounded edges and less high frequency which sums to the sharp edges.. I doubt this change would affect our stock tci, but it might make for noise in an old radio or cb if you run them. Not sure if it would affect an Ignetek ignition.. I have an Ignetek, stock wires (trimmed to get good contact to the boot), and 10k ohm plug caps which are readily available. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I put plugs into an old GS last far and far it and this spring it wasn't lighting 3 cylinders bc spark was messed somehow by the anti seize which was just on the threads. With plugs out laying on the case the arc traveled from the plug body to the engine case but not from the center electrode to the plug body. Weirdest thing. I used to use a smear of oil on plug threads and thought the anti seize better but no. I cleaned plugs and she ran nice. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk