gaj1917

You can get the OEM kit online from PartShark for $21.49 - part # 2KW-W0099-00-00

My longest was many years ago - 8100 miles over the course of a month, back in 1975. A friend and I jumped on our old Yamaha 650s (me on a 70, he on a 73) and drove across Canada from the east coast to the west and back. Our longest day was 520 miles. More typically we did 300-400. Last year we decided to do a reprise, 40 years after the original - this time on 84 Ventures. (Although we still have and ride the 650s, we thought better of making the trip with them this time around.) We made it to Calgary, but decided to not go to the west coast as forest fires were raging at the time. Instead we headed south into Montana and Wyoming, then east through South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and back into Canada through Sioux St Marie and then home to New Brunswick via Ontario, Quebec, Vermont and Maine. All told we covered just over 11,000 km in two weeks. Second gear stared to go on my Venture during the trip.

Correct, and have read comments about bleeding up at the front master as well, but I've never found it necessary to bleed there or at that metering valve, fortunately, as the valve is a bear to access. Even when I replaced my brake lines with stainless steel, classic bleeding at front and rear was all that was necessary. Whatever gets you on the road I guess.

Hope I don't hijack the thread here - but interested to know what brand of vac you're using. I have a MityVac, but have found it very difficult to get a good seal at the bleed screw.

It's not a huge job, assuming you know the basics bleeding brakes. Keep in mind that the foot brake pedal actually activates the rear plus the front left brakes. Start the bleeding process at the front left - it's the greatest distance from the pedal slave cylinder. Bleed the anti-dive as well. You'll need someone to pump the brake pedal, and hold, while you work the bleed screw. Then proceed to the rear brake and bleed that. If rear braking is still soft after getting all air out, it's likely your slave cylinder needs attention, or the brake hoses have become so soft with age that they are expanding under pressure.

Installed easily, just be real careful when using side cutters to cut existing hard plastic retaining rings. You risk breaking the plastic slide if you aren't.

Re diaphragms - I bought four from JB Industries (http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html) at a cost of $20 each. These appear to be very sturdy, they work just fine, but I only have 4,000 km on them, so can't say much about their longevity.

I use a molybdenum grease.

There is a trick to this. I think I read about it here on this forum somewhere, but can't recall where or by whom. When reinstalling the drive shaft, with the transmission in gear, push the shaft in and turn clockwise at the same time. That seems to pick up the dangling end of the u-joint and the shaft will slip in. At least it has worked for me in the past.

Yes, I use white grease on all other gaskets. Never a problem.

I used Permatex high tack, but only in the cover groove. I leave the ribbed side of the gaskets clean. That way the cover with gaskets should be removable without damage - I hope!

That's the stuff!

What camos said, but very tight quarters. The covers will come out with considerable fiddling. Getting them back in with gaskets attached is also tricky. A good sticky gasket cement helps hold them in place. Do a trial run without a gasket to figure out the just-right angle of attack.You might also consider replacing the rubbers around the cover bolts.

Purchased a Superbrace a few years ago. Can't say it made a lot of difference in my case. When she's hard over as she'll lay in a turn that has some unevenness in the surface, she gets the wobblies. I'm running progressive springs btw.

Fuel float/sender assemblies often go wonky. I haven't read Freebird's post, but you can pick up a used, working unit on eBay for a reasonable price. That's what I did, a long time ago.

I'm thinking that a VMax transmission should slip right into your '83. BUT you'd want to retain all middle gear components from your '83, otherwise you'll run into gear lash issues.

The 333 exit is well past the Bay of Fundy. The exit, just past Jemseg, would be an hours drive or so beyond Moncton. If you manage to take 105, an interesting little side trip would be the bridge across the river into Oromocto (look for the sign), and back. My wife refuses to cross it on our motorcycle. It's quite lofty in the middle.

Assuming you're still in the Maritimes, on your way back through NB, you'll have a chance to take one of my favourite routes - 100 km stretch of highway 105 that runs along the St John River, the Rhine of North America. Just a gorgeous run. Take exit 333 off the TCH, just past Jemseg. The route will eventually take you through Fredericton North, and a GPS would be helpful there as several turns are required. Once through Fredericton, though, you'll join up with the river again. Leave 105 at the Mactaquac dam, or continue on and camp the Mactaquac Park. Once across the dam turn west onto the old TCH and look for the first sign directing you to the new TCH.

Have you used a Colortune on your Venture? Experience?

That's right, no notches on the Barnett discs. They can be installed in any position.

I bought this trailer a couple of years ago. I use it mostly for transporting unlicensed 650s, but had occasion to haul a friends Venture that broke down. Was able to drive the bike up and on. The trailer is rated for 750 lbs, so wouldn't want to lug a Venture too far.

In addition to the half size disc/steel plate pair, your Barnett kit should have seven discs and six steel plates, as I recall.

I have Kuryakyn grips on my '84. Very nice. Do an eBay search or Google search and I'm sure you will find lots.

I just checked PartShark. They have Cables #3 and #4 for $22 and $17, respectively, for the '84, but none for '83. I wonder what would be so different between '83 and '84?

Good eye cimmer!