YamahaLarry

Sorry it took me so long to respond. Yesterday was a busy day. PM sent. Thanks!!!!

Perhaps the wrong place to post this, and if so, perhaps @Freebird will overlook the err of my ways and fix it for me. I don't post here a whole lot, but do read occasionally. I guess that's what happens when you are happy with your ride and it very seldom gives you any problems. I have also been busy with a lot of charity rides. Have already organized 10 to 12 this calendar year and ridden in a few more as just another biker. I hardly ever have a passenger. BUT, there is a ride for a local non-profit that benefits childhood cancer patients and their families. The organization is Smile-A-Mile in Birmingham, aka Camp Smile-A-Mile. Most of my rides are for childhood cancer, plus I do other things for many families such as cut vinyl and make "team" tee shirts for them to sell for fund raising. I have a NEED. Since I do not carry a passenger very often, I only have 1 headset. And before spending 100+ on a new headset, was wondering if anyone on here has an extra or old set they could sell me. In this ride, I have a PASSENGER!!! She is a 15 year old cancer patient (undifferentiated sarcoma) from Sylacauga, AL. It would be nice if she could communicate with me and also listen in to what we do when we run these rides. Any help would be grateful. P.S. If any of you are close to this area, the ride is on April 29th, Barber Motorsports Park, KSU 11:00 AM. Entry fee includes a lap around the track, a pin of some sorts and lunch. Also, at the end of the ride (downtown Bham at new facilities), we will interact with childhood cancer patients and play games with them. Gonna be a fun filled day with proceeds going to Smile-A-Mile. Freebird, if I got this in wrong forum, please fix it for me sir. Have a blessed day!

The other horn is behind the lower left faring and relatively easy to get to. As for your replacement horn, it should be rewired if you are going with a louder horn, such as an air horn. You need to use a relay wired to the switch and heavier gauge wire from the battery to the horn. I rewired mine and went a Stebel. Simple task. Much louder now. The original relay went out and had to replace, so good idea to keep a spare handy.

I do believe you are correct in you analysis. Went out to the garage before heading to work this AM, and the leak is still occurring (moved bike yesterday to concrete that has epoxy painted floor). The leak under the bike is the color of the coolant and the trickle down the crankcase cover is in the indention directly under the plug. So, I guess I will do the washer trick til the 4 plugs come in, assuming they don't make it by this weekend. Best I can tell, this is the part number. PLUG 90338-11152-00 $4.84

I thought about this, but the clutch slave is much further toward the back of the engine. One thing that is odd, is I have never seen any oil in my garage or on my driveway from the clutch. It's not dripping at all. Both times that I had to refill though, it was down to the point the clutch was not fully releasing. It will most likely be Wednesday evening before I get a chance to pull the cylinder cover and faring.

I have owned my '99 RSV for approx 2-1/2 years and put almost 30k miles on it during that time. Never once have I ever had any leaks from the engine area. A few drops from the rear shock which I replaced a few weeks ago, but never the engine. No pics yet. Anyhow, I parked the bike on Tuesday of last week after the ride home from work, and didn't ride it any since. I did start it up on Thursday just checking my battery. It has been giving me some issues recently and on it's way out. There were no drops on the floor at that time. Yesterday, I noticed a wet spot on the concrete about 3" diameter just forward of the kickstand and directly under the crankcase cover and another spot slightly smaller directly under the left lower fairing. There was a very small line of what felt and looked like oil down the crankcase cover coming from under the left side front cylinder cover. Did not have time to pull the cylinder cover and inspect, but I don't know of too many places that it could be coming from. Head? Valve cover? What's odd, it wasn't there Thursday when I started the engine up for a few minutes. This morning, the crankcase cover does NOT have any oil and the 3" diamter spot is still about the same size. BUT......the smaller spot under the left fairing is much larger this morning. Maybe 6" diameter. So, I laid on the concrete and could see a drop of liquid hanging onto the bottom back lip of the fairing. Between my fingers, it does not feel like water, but didn't feel like oil either and had no noticeable odor. Had to leave the bike and come to work (drove truck), but has had me concerned all morning. Don't need any leaks. Forward lead under the fairing possible coolant? I just find it odd that I have 2 apparent different leaks, at the same time during a rare 5 day sit period. I ride the bike almost every day and am one that always looks under the bike for leaks as I walk up to it. I did change the oil 2 weekends ago and the clutch reservoir has been leaking down the past year. Have had to refill it twice. In the 2-1/2 years that I have owned the bike, I have never had to add coolant. Reservoir has maintained a fairly consistent level 2 Questions: What is the likely place for oil leak behind the cylinder cover? Is there anything besides coolant that could be dripping from the lower left fairing?

According to boats.net, 1 year manufacturer warranty.

Boats.net

Funny you say that, but I did learn a trick last week with wax and zippers. If you have an old jacket, jeans or whatever that has a stubborn sticky zipper, you can simply rub it with a crayon or candle and it will cure it most of the time. As far as using a bic lighter and a candle on a rusty lug nut (or any rusty nut I guess), I am sorta like Flyinfool. I just can't see there be high enough temp to get the wax to melt to down in between the threads. But I am curious enough now to try to find a rusty nut/bolt and experiment.

Some said it's 1/2 hour job. Took me at least 1-1/2 after I got it up on the jack. Battery tray was a pain and took me a while to get the new one in place and the holes aligned. Was my first time doing this and didn't take long to figure out to use a small pry bar controlled by my foot to help get the bolts aligned. Put 38 lbs of air in it and took it for a test ride. WOW!!! The one that was on there could very well have been the original, not sure, but bike has never rode and handled this good since I have had it. Even sits up a little higher. I guess the spring in the old one had weakened, dunno. No more bouncy bounce bounce and no more sliding sensation hitting the tight curves. Was well worth the $472.54 spent. Got a bike ride that I am hosting tomorrow and looking forward to it!!!

I am guessing that could be a likely cause. Had similar issue happen to me once on a garden tractor. The starter must have been engaged the entire time it was running that last time and when the ignition was turned off, the starter kept turning. Surprised it didn't wear off the teeth because it had the bendix drive. I don't know how the relay/solenoid for the Venture is wired. Never had a need to investigate. But on the garden tractor it was just the standard solenoid that has been used forever. Also was surprised that I didn't hear the starter running while the tractor was running.

No. I found 1 other site that was the same price but went with Boats.net. They had the 2 items I needed in the Georgia warehouse, shipped same day, last Friday and I got the shipment in on Monday. Haven't had time yet to put the new shock on. I also had to order a bracket for my left side wind deflector. Had the right side break off on me last year and it cost over $200 to replaced everything due to a $7 bracket breaking. Left side is beginning to crack at the 90 degree bend, so gonna replace it before it costs me $200.

I did decide to order the OEM shock from Bikes.net and it is scheduled for delivery today. I hope to get time to install it one night this week. While I fully believe the Hagon is a higher quality and love the idea of the rebuild, I decided to pay just a few $$$ more and go with the adjustable air shock due to my varying extremes in riding. Thanks for all the input guys. The information obtained on this site is invaluable.

I have really considered the Hagon. Haven't ordered the other one yet. But doesn't the set screw just sorta throttle the flow of the hydraulic fluid? I thought the adjust the sprint tension (compression) it was a much tougher ordeal? I still haven't ruled out Hagon. When it comes to buying something like this, I guess I spend too much time pondering. But whatever I choose, I guess I need to do it quickly. I have another cancer ride to host in about 10 days.

Thanks. Not sure what it may vent, but I think I will go with this. I seldom ride 2 up, but when I do, I like the ability to easily adjust.

Hello guys, Freebird, Cowpuc and gang. I haven't posted in while. Mainly cause the old '99 RSV has been running like a top this year. Oil changes and a new rear tire has been the only things needed since the new paint job in Aug 2015. She has led the way for 6 or so childhood cancer bike rides this year, 1 adult cancer ride, an auto-crash victim's ride, a child's ride for NKH and led a funeral procession for a 16 year old boy that died from osteo sarcoma. She's done well. So well that I haven't had to come here and dip into the vast RSV knowledge that resides here. However, the rear shock has finally bit the dust I am afraid. It has been going soft on me for over a year now. Oddly, I have never seen any oil on my garage floor or driveway during that time. But, has gotten softer and softer and now to the point that it is way too bouncy and getting a little dangerous on some of these Alabama curves (we have the crappiest roads in the US of A). Trying to figure out my smartest move. I do love the ability to adjust the ride, but reading all the posts and experiences others have had with the OEM shock does make me a little weary. Bikes.net wants close to $700 for the '99 flavor, but the 2010 is only $560 or so. In the diagrams, the only visual difference I can see is some sort of extra hose on the newer ones, maybe a vent or something. So my question on this one is this: Can I put the 2010 version on my 1999 model? I would think yes, but what do I do with that hose or whatever it is? Now, I see that I can save $$$ by going with the Hagon and is it rebuildable like the Works shock? I have read where some say that the Hagon is not as 'soft' of a ride as he OEM. Most of my riding is interstate, but I do manage/organize/escort quite a few bike rides and in the escort part, I have to run ahead of the rides often to set up blocks at intersections. This does make me push the bike thru some pretty rough roads and curves at higher speeds and just curious if the Hagon would not be a better application for this if I have it set up a little firmer than normal. Any info that you RSV wizards can lend would be most appreciated.

Fantastic! However, not something I would do. When it snows where I live, I use it as an excuse to become a huge couch potato. Loved the video. Much braver man than myself.

Have found a few goodies, but haven't hit it big yet. In the process now of sorting all the stuff that was picked up off the floor and thrown into boxes, and placing them all in cabinets. Have rehung all the cabinets except one. Had to take a break and install my wife's Christmas gift, new flooring for the kitchen. Gotta keep the kitchen in shape, that is where the real goodies come from.

If that would have happened, there would have been no posts. I would still be in very deep eternal depression. While my bike has a value per NADA and Kelly, it is actually priceless to me due to the custom paint job in memory of a couple of children that have lost their lives to childhood cancer, as well as those that have battled and are battling this horrible monster. The actual value of the paint job is in the 4k range. But, my wife and I were talking the other day, and as I explained to her, you can't put a value on it.

Hey, I wish it was as simple as a well laid out plan to take a ride in the bug. And unlike you, I never can remember to grab the camera. FWIW, until I do the full restore on the bug, I am using it as a daily driver when I can't ride the RSV. Just haven't been able to put the top down very often due to all the rain we have been having. The biggest mess that was created was the old 21" Computer CRT that was on top of the cabinets. When one of those fall from 9 or 10 feet, and land face first on concrete, it creates a huge mess of glass. I mean fine particles of glass. Luckily, my wife was out helping me when I got to that portion and she was kind enough to grab a broom and dust pan and get it all cleaned up. All I had to do was carefully remove the deceased.

WOW. Since we started this conversation, there has been a great need in local areas for such shelters, more so in Mississippi. Down here, we mostly just got flash flooding, and I live on a hillside, so I was safe. Back to the shelter. My father in law, may he rest in peace, had a 1500 gallon septic tank buried in his back yard inside and embankment. He cut a hole in the side and installed a commercial steel door. It worked, but was always damp and clammy, but sufficed. I have considered buying the fiberglass one and doing it myself. I enjoy operating heavy equipment and do not enjoy paying someone to do something that I can do myself. I have even considered using both battery power with an inverter and a small generator for power, lighting, heat, proper ventilation, foods with long shelf life, etc. Never once did I consider the food that was consumed had to be dealt with later. Good thinking.

LOL, although I know it isn't funny at all. My friend sorta looks like Popeye when he smiles or laughs. He had a hard time with it for a while. He had a complex associated with his problems. But over time, he learned to live with it and now, it hardly crosses his mind. It's a very odd disease to say the least. Do hope you overcome this bump in the road very quickly. Keep us updated and hope you have a Happy New Year and able to talk and laugh right thru it all.

Will try to make this as short as I can, but the week before Christmas, my wife calls me while I am at work and says she was outside and heard a lot of commotion coming from my garage. I have a 26 x 24 steel building garage with 2 bay doors. Both doors were closed and only had 1 of them locked. She said she thought someone was in there and was about to call the police. In my mind, a quick flash, and I remembered seeing my cabinets leaning slightly at the top. I have the back wall, from side to side, 24 feet, with 40" tall cabinets. I asked her to go out and look, I bet a cabinet fell off the wall. She insisted that the noise lasted too long for it to be a cabinet and was afraid someone was in there. We hung up the phones. A few minutes later she built up courage to go check and called me back. I had all the cabinets fasted to the same staggered 2 x 4s that were attached to the metal tubes horizontally. Well, EVERY cabinet came loose from the top. The ones on the left were barely attached at the bottom and leaning close to 90 degrees from the wall while the ones on the right side were leaning more like 45 degrees. Needless to say, everything in the cabinets hit whatever was under it or the floor. I had a huge mess of tools, special tools, paints, electrical equipment, electrical components in the cabinets. On top, I had years of old paperwork in boxes, old parts from some old cars including a torque converter and lots of other stuff. Well, it has been raining here, and I had no option other than to set up some tables and shelves outside the garage to start putting everything on just so I could get to the cabinets, so I put a popup tent over the tables and shelves and carried a lot of stuff out. Next I started taking the cabinets loose, 1 by 1 (they vary 36" to 48" wide) working from right to left. My air compressor is a 60 gallon mounted on cement pad behind the garage with 3/4" black iron pipe coming thru the wall and welded to the vertical tubes down the back and right side of the wall with quick connects ever so often. When I got to the 2nd to last cabinet, and it came free, the 2 x 4s dropped on the right causing it to come loose from the cabinet to my left. I had hold of one cabinet, and the other one fell. As soon as it fell, I hear a PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. DANG!!!! So I threw cabinet down, grabbed the other and leaned it up to find the problem and it had broken my air gauge off of the air/water separator. So, I run and turn off the compressor. Make a trip to Tractor Suppy and get a gauge and got it all fixed up and running. So now I work and get to the point of hanging my cabinets on a wood wall that I had build a few months ago, first putting a 1 x 2 strip to rest the cabinets upon. Using my pneumatic finish nailer, I hear the compressor kick on and off as it should occasionally, and once I heard it make a dinging sound when it shut off. I wondered what that could be as I continued working. Compressor kicks on again, and there is this dang PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH sound again. It's dark outside. So rush to find a flashlight in all my mess, compressor is running at a seemingly higher rpm than normal. I finally get out there to it and there is the plastic hose that air is spewing from. So I shut the compressor off with switch on top of the pressure switch and examine where this hose could possibly have detached from. I find a little black elbow under the pressure switch and the brass quick-coupler on it had broken. Have no idea if the cabinets falling was responsible, and really doesn't matter. I need my compressor. I use it almost daily. So, after googling, I find out this is a UNLOADER VALVE. Make a trip the following day (yesterday) to Grainger (had a nice ride in the 73 vw convertible) to get a new valve. Got home and ended up having to remove the pressure switch to replace the valve, and then had to install it and wire it all back up. Got 'er fixed. Feeling pretty good and calling it a day. Still have lots of stuff under my tent outside. So, this morning, my son drops off my grandkids and says "Hey, did you know your tent collapsed?". Sure enough, it rained during the night and water must have built up on the top canvas and it collapsed. Everything WET. Had to deal with that. They say it comes in threes. I hope I am done with my rounds: 1) Cabinets fall 2) Broken pressure gauge 3) Broken unloader valve Still have tons of work to do to get it all back together. Just wanted to share my joyous holiday's with you guys. If you have overloaded cabinets, make sure they are secure or just don't have anything important under them. And, until a couple days ago, I had never even heard of an unloader valve and I have been around air compressors just about my entire 59 year life. Luckily, my RSV was a good 10 to 12 feet from the cabinets and no car was in the garage.

In that year range, try to find the 2004 with the 40th anniversary badging. We have had 1 in our family, and daughters friend is on her 2nd Mustang convertible (wrecked the first one). I don't think the tops are as quiet as some cars tops, but they are ok and you will need to turn the heat up when it's really cold out. But from our experiences with the v6 in the Mustangs, is they are alright. Not a lot of power, but sufficient and obviously does not have that nice H pipe sound that the v8 produces. Personally, I like my 73 bug convertible over the Mustang. Easier for me to get in and out of, and believe or not, a nicer ride. The Mustangs are a little bumpy and your butt is only inches from the pavement. But, for the Mustang fans, they are pretty good. We never had any real mechanical issues other than a couple of noisy power steering pumps.