YamahaLarry

Dang. You're a year late. Purchased a new OEM rear shock this time last year to replace my old bouncy one once it was getting dangerous to ride. Held onto the old shock for a few months and finally tossed it this spring. Nice to know that this is possible for future reference. Those rear shocks aren't cheap.

Did a childhood cancer ride Sunday. Filled up just prior to kickstands up. Went 183.6 miles before my odometer clicked to zero to start the upcount. Never had went that far before without the odometer change and fuel light coming on. Filled up and for that tank was 43.2 MPG (filled up a 191 miles). I felt like pulling a Cozmo Cramer and seeing how far I could go, but it had done gotten dark and the old lady was surely wondering what was taking me so long. Until I had to get a new phone, I was tracking my fill ups in a phone app. Last I remember checking, I was averaging 38.x MPG for over 29k miles. But, most of my driving is interstate at 75 to 85 mph.

Have you looked at a BMW 1200RT? Sounds like something along that style would fit your needs better. Triumph may have some options as well. While I am not a fan of steering folks away from the Yamahas, both of those are pretty sweet bikes. The BMW is probably over 200 lbs lighter than our Ventures and has a longer range between fuel refills with some really nice features.

Don't blame you. I wouldn't either. Gonna check more reviews on several LED headlight kits. But good part is they are most every one of them for auto use and comes with 2 of everything int the kits.

I think maybe t has been replaced by the S7. Can't find a S5 H4/9003 anywhere except for 1 on eBay and not sure I want to go that route. Plenty of S7 kits though. Some of the links in google search say S5, but when clicked takes me to a S7.

After fixing my high voltage issue and replacing yet another (4th) headlamp bulb, had to replace one of the driving light sealed beams so I went with 2 new LEDs there. Problem, those bright whites on each side of the headlight make it look so weak and I look like a dork going down the highway. So, I am looking at the options to replacing the headlight bulb with LED. I have read on here where several have gone with the Broview S5 or S7, but in looking at the reviews online I am reluctant to do so. Lots of issues with a bulb burning out in a matter of 1 to 6 months and not being able to get them replaced under the factory warranty. This is only getting a 3.2 star rating on Amazon. And yes, some of those may be people that didn't install properly and some of the bad reviews may be by some that didn't adjust them correctly. What are the other options that folks on here have had success? Will be splitting the faring again very soon to add a strobe controller and necessary components to have the driving lamps strobe during ride escorts and would like to replace the old headlight bulb with LED while I am in there. FWIW, those new LED driving lamps put out way more lighting that the old originals.

Thanks guys. That's what I will do then. I am an expert fryer and just don't want to fry a good controller. I would assume one like this one will suffice? http://tinyurl.com/maybethisdiode

Sounds like you have been to the YamahaLarry school of mechanics.

Maybe someone smarter than me has a better option to solve the problem. I rely only LED strobes nearly every weekend running lead in bike rides and having to safely navigate anywhere from 25 to 200 bikes thru rural intersections. Now I want to add my new LED driving lights to the arsenal. Maybe a particular LED controller that has a constant ON and memory to default to that mode, but will allow me to remotely change the mode from constant ON to varying strobe patterns? The controllers I have owned in the past have memory issues, and when you power them down totally, they forget the last mode used. My current strobes that I use for other LEDs is wired direct to the battery circuit with an inline fuse. I can't wire a similar controller into the lights with the current wiring from the switch. Controller will most likely get fried when I turn on the switch and the power back feeds into the controller. So, what I had in mind was using a NO relay for the switch, and when it is off, have another NC relay that would close on the power down and have the controller wiring going thru it. But, I am not sure how quick the NO closes, and the NC opens, and whether it would even be safe enough to prevent from frying my controller. This will be a new controller, larger wattage than my current controller and drive only the LED driving lights. These questions may sound dumb, but if you don't know the answer, such as myself, maybe they aren't.

Takes me maybe 1/2 hour or so to split the faring, and then another 1/2 hour or so to put it back together. I have to loosen the running lights enough for them to lean forward so I can cock the faring and pull it out. It took me maybe 2 minutes to remove the old bulb, and then with my latex gloved hand, it took me maybe 5 minutes to slip the bulb in being careful not to let it touch anything, and I did fumble with that little spring like clamp for a good 15 to 20 minutes. Had to back off a time or two and whisper, "Patience grasshopper, patience". In the end, my hand was glad to get out of that tight spot and latex glove.

got the regulator/rectifier in today. Got 'er installed. Hooked the battery back up, hooked up voltmeter and fired the old girl up and voltage at the battery maintained a range of 13.96 to 14.07 volts thru lots of varying RPMs. Replaced the headlamp bulb and she and I took a night ride. Over the weekend, I had a charity ride that I had to lead/navigate and kept it at as low of RPMs that I possibly could, even doing abnormal stuff like running in 5th gear at 50 mph and hoping that I didn't destroy my battery and blow all my bulbs. Got thru the 100 miles and only blew the right running lamp. So time to replace both of those with LED. And I read on here where many people claim that you have to split the faring to replaced the headlamp bulb. Wrong! It can be done from the left side of the bike. My hands are not small, but not extremely large. Size XL gloves are very snug on me and I was able to replace it without removing the faring. The first bulb I replaced a little over a week ago, I did split the faring. Saw how the bulb was held in place (couldn't tell from peeking in tween the forks). Not sure if all years have the little spring wire that holds the lamp in place, but my 99 does. I replaced the other 2 headlamp bulbs from the left side by removing the adjustment knob. Takes a little patience, but heck of a lot easier than splitting the faring, especially when you have OEM running lights.

Yep. Cause I got rides both Sat and Sun next weekend.

Thanks! Wish I were too. Made the ride. Didn't fry anything and battery "seems" to be undamaged, but time will tell. I did blow another bulb though. This time the right front driving lamp. Argh!!!

later on today for a bike ride. Regulator is putting out too much voltage and I've blown a few headlight bulbs. Battery seems to be handling it to this point. Hasn't gotten extremely hot to my knowledge. I had been driving it that way for a few days not knowing regulator was bad, even led a 123 mile ride on Sunday. Any rate, my regulator didn't make it in on Friday as it was supposed to have done. It is at UPS in Birmingham, AL and I am about 25 miles from there. Gonna try to get them to let me come get it since it is not specified for weekend delivery. Otherwise, will have my fingers and toes crossed since I have to lead a ride for a 3 year old CP girl later today (Saturday at noon). It's only an 80 mile ride, but I will be hitting some high rpms at times getting to intersections to set up blocking. Help me out UPS!!!

From Momma Yamaha: [TABLE=class: Grid, width: 652] [TR] [TD]Front tyre:[/TD] [TD]150/80-H16[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Rear tyre:[/TD] [TD]150/80-H15[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] I changed 3 years ago to a 130/90-16 on the front. Little narrower and close to the same height as spec. As for the MV, M = motorcycle and V is the alpha width equiv to a 150. Here is a link to JP Cycles that explains it all.

I put the voltmeter on it last night. Shows almost 18v output with engine revved up. Have ordered a new regulator. Surely this is the problem.

I will. Worth noting though that I did check my house voltage with it before walking out and it was just under 123 volts AC, and then I checked the battery in the bike before turning the ignition and it was 13.0VDC.

What? Your's doesn't have built in FM? On the running it any more til I get it fixed, I may have no choice on Saturday. I have been running it unknowingly for a couple weeks or so to work and back and led a charity ride this past Sunday. I have another ride I am in charge of and running lead this Saturday for a 3 year old girl with CP. So, unless UPS can get it to me before then, looks like I will have to roll the dice one more time.

and the reason that I am all of a sudden burning out headlamp bulbs. Luckily, I anticipated this is the most likely culprit and ordered a new voltage regulator/rectifier today. I didn't even bother checking for A/C current across the battery. The video is probably at 4k or so RPM max. Even at idle it was running over 14v. When I shut it off, not shown here, it dropped down to 13v after a minute or two. Enjoy the music!

Did you get this resolved? Reason I ask, I am soon to replace or rebuild my clutch slave and wondering why it was leaking.

Gonna check/clean all the connections good and check the voltage at the battery. In a way, I am hoping it is the voltage regulator putting out too many volts. Otherwise, I could be chasing this for a while.

Yeah, that's my next step. Just has me puzzled why the hi beam blew and I was running low beam. Gonna throw the voltmeter on it tonight. I have no other electrical issues at the present, but I guess if regulator is allowing too much voltage, I could fry something else. Thanks.

I noticed after a ride on the 16th that my hi beam side of my 3 year old Sylvania Silverstar bulb was out. So, I go to local parts store and purchase a Sliverstar Ultra bulb. Supposed to be brighter. Put it in this past Sunday evening just as it was getting dark, drove it around the 5 mile loop, all is good. Rode bike to work Monday morning, 22 miles, mostly interstate. Went out and started bike after I get off work and noticed headlamp was blown both hi and low beam. Drove home at dusky dark with only my driving lights. Took the bulb out, ran down to the local parts store and had it replaced. While I was there I purchased a spare Silverstar bulb, not the Ultra as a spare. Went home and installed the non Ultra bulb. Drove to work and back yesterday. All is good. Got on bike this morning and hit both hi and low beam as I was backing it away from the garage, all still good and left it on low beam. Drive 22 miles to work and decided to give it another check before shutting it off. DANG, hi beam not working and I had it on low beam all the way to work. I am bewildered. Anyone else ever have a similar issue?

Anxiously awaiting the arrival so I can do a surgical operation on a helmet. As it turns out, she wants to use a different helmet, and I gotta make it work. The magic of velcro.

I love doing what I do. The rewards are great in just being able to be some sort of help to those in need. I responded to Hummingbird. Thanks a mil for the offer. I am sure that I will have this young lady a headset by ride day.