BlueSky

Some starter fluid would get you past that first hard start if you are on the road. 140,000 miles, when did you adjust the valves last? I would check the compression just for fun. And checking the exhaust temps with one of those infrared thermometers would tell you if a cylinder is not working as hard as the others. Your problem may be electrical but if the bike is not up to snuff mechanically, it will contribute to the issue. Just thinking and wild guessing.

Maybe the file is too large. Try reducing the file size and retry.

check the carb holders and everything else for vacuum leaks.

My manual goes up to 93 and the pickup coil info is the same as what you quoted for 86 to 93.

Tire stores used to use a patch that had a plug in the center of it to plug and patch a tire at the same time. I have looked on line for those and can't find them. Don't know if they are still available? Yep, they are available. Just looked again. https://www.zoro.com/steelman-tire-repair-patchplug-combo-18-pk25-jsg381/i/G9656090/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi43oBRDBARIsAExSRQHTeaE6_GfVqRqfNgHmONK1iDE6ui5-Z__vEPWsNtLA0m3ZZeNo22UaAlioEALw_wcB

Why not use CO2 inflators? Those little compressors may work on a motorcycle tire but they take a looonnng time to pump up a car or truck tire.

Are you sure it's running on all four cylinders? Check the exhaust pipes temperatures to see.

I doubt that you need to worry about that. My Dodge Magnum brake rotors rust quickly if it sits for a few days and the pads make a light scrubbing sound when I back out of the driveway and brake. But, it has 115,000 miles on it and the brakes are original. Yeah, it's time for a brake job but they have really lasted especially for a heavy powerful car like a Hemi Magnum.

I'm not sure what bolts you are referring to? I just took a look at mine. Are they exposed so that I can remove one to check without removing anything else? Christmas before last when my wife asks me what I wanted for a present, I gave her a couple of links like this for SAE and Metric bolt size determination. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Checker-SWTC-S21-Thread-Testers-Gages-SAE-INCH-ONLY-Male-Female-NC-NF/310993375445?hash=item4868a650d5:g:DYQAAOSwDmBY47US

It might be interesting to cut the filter open and see what is inside.

Isn't the overdrive a 0.7 ratio? 3.55 x .7 = 2.485. Seems to me a reasonable ratio for highway driving. Does he have a means of reprogamming the speedometer?

Don't you think he should be careful what "carb cleaner" is put into the tank? I recommend Gumout for high mileage engines with PEA fuel injector cleaner. It works and it doesn't harm the carb. I'm sure there are many others.

Is fuel pouring out of all four carbs? It's probably due to the fuel needle leaking. Be careful. You don't want to hydrolock the engine. I agree with draining the carbs maybe several times to see if the crud under the seat will flush out.

The shops in Homestead FL when I was there charged $150 for the rear if it was shaft drive and $75 for the front if they removed the wheels from the bike. At the time I paid it because I was working and was very busy and didn't have the time or initiative then to tackle them myself.

Thanks but HF doesnt' sell that bead breaker any more. This is the one they sell now. https://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html

I was thinking of taking the RSV tires/wheels and new tires to a shop for replacement. So, I called the Honda/Suzuki dealer $55 per tire. The only other new bike dealer is HD. I called an independent shop and was told they don't install tires they don't sell. Another independent shop will do it for $35/tire. Sooo, I guess I'll do it. I'll just use a different method of breaking the bead on these. C-clamps didn't do that well for me on the Kawa rear tire. I think I'll try the 2x4 under the bumper trick. HF did get in a bead breaker but I've kinda lost interest in buying one now. I've got plenty of 2x4s.

Thanks, but that one has a 300 psi gauge. It probably wouldn't be that useful for the front forks that have a maximum pressure rating of 7.1 psig.

I have the Hotels.com app on my iphone and just pull over and look up the closest hotel in my price range that has a room available. Stay 10 nights and get a free night.

I would not recommend running it on two cylinders. Chase this problem a bit and determine what is causing it. If it needs valve adjustment the valves will burn for sure if you continue to run it.

The adapter is not under the swingarm and pumping up the rear shock made a big difference. I went to Walmart and they did not have a zero loss pump and the bicycle shops don't carry one either. I didn't want to wait for an order to come and I didn't want to buy one without the zero loss feature. The board idea is a good one. That's basically what i did with the ZN700 when I replaced the rear tire last week. I have 3, 3/4" layers of chip board nailed together cut into 3 pieces. I pushed the bike up on them and pulled out the front and rear pieces with it on its center stand on the middle piece. That gave me about 6" of clearance to remove the rear tire.

I don't think so. The original owner said the bike was just like he bought it new except that he added the luggage rack and back rest. But he may have forgotten. He's an old coot too! Ha! Anyway, Success! After pumping up the tires to max pressure, pumping up the rear shock to about 35 psig (all I dared with my air compressor), the jack still would not quite go under the adapter. I removed the rubber pads from the jack and then it went under. So now the bike is in the air! Yay! And the adapter legs are installed. Thanks to all who offered suggestions! Denting the adapter to clear the kickstand spring and drilling the adapter rod holes from 3/8" to 1/2" was the right thing to do in my case to get the adapter rod through all the holes. If I had a helper to tap on the rod while I held the adapter up and bent the rod as much as I could with my hand, I could have gotten the rod through the last hole in the adapter but no helper. Drilling the holes was the right thing to do. The adapter is held snugly against the frame. And the next time the installatiion will be very easy.

I tried holding the bike upright and there still isn't enough clearance. So, I suspect the forks and rear shock have zero air pressure. The original owner probably never pumped them up. Off to Walmart to see what air pumps they have.

Thanks for the tip. Mine is a little different and it has attachable legs.

From what I've read though, eliminating the 1/2 clutch plate also decreases the distance the clutch lever can be moved to engage or disengage. So, it will be harder to slip the clutch.

I dented the spot where the spring was touching and still couldn't get the rod inserted. So, I drilled the 3/8" holes in the adapter to 1/2" and the rod inserts like it should now. But, now I have to find the air valves so I can pump up the suspension. It's too low for the jack to fit under the adapter as it sits right now. Looks like I need to buy a hand pump. My air compressor would fill the shock/fork legs too quickly I'm sure.