syscrusher

I have a 93 VR so I'm not sure that helps me to be knowledgeable about your RSV. When you talk about the zerk fitting do you mean the bleeder valve? Do you know where I can look at a copy of the RSV manual online or can you post the page where it talks about this so I can admire the problem for a while first?

Sold by Amazon as new, I believe. My order record does not specifically say this but when I look at the list of all offerings for the item the Amazon one says "New".

The left one was in a box that I bought from Amazon Progressive p/n 11-1112 so I assumed it to be the correct Progressive spring. It does not look like the photo posted by mbrood. Did I get taken?

So I sometimes ride with a group that uses CB radios to communicate amongst bikes. Is there anything that I can plug into my intercom port on the Royale that will interface to one of the newer Bluetooth type headsets? Bluetooth is great but I need to be able to use the CB.

This may have been "discovered" before but I found a great time and frustration saving way to reinstall the front wheel with rotor covers on it. The covers I am talking about are pictured here: What you do is install your speedo drive and spacer in the wheel and then use zip ties through the cover windows and rotor slots to hold everything in place while placing things between the forks. I used two, one high and one low, but three points is probably best. I had a lot of trouble with this the first time around when both spacer and speedo drive dislodged alternately, etc. With the zip ties you can maneuver all you like and nothing comes loose. After the axle is in then cut the ties to free the wheel or you could probably just go for a ride and the ties would be sheared. I'm talking about the small size zip ties, use the jumbo white ones and you're probably going to smoke the rear tire before they shear.

The left one is the Progressive. It looks like the tightly wound coils of the Progressive are a little looser than what I had, on the right. The thickness of material seems heavier on the old spring though, does anyone know if it is stock? They are also wound in opposite directions. Works OK so far. The difference in the stock spacer and the PVC was less than 1/4" so I kept the stock spacer.

For the price of that you could have a smaller 12v Lithium battery from Shorai. Check out: http://shoraipower.com

Cut the cord and use a cell phone only. Then get a Google voice number and set it up to ring on your cell phone. This is the number that you give to businesses that you don't really want bothering you. Then remember to check your voice mails frequently. It is far better to use the network system answering machine than a local one that isn't backed up and fully redundant. If you're going to play the game, ie, have communications, then you need to become good at it and keep up on changes to the rules, er, I mean technologies.

Thanks for the responses. I didn't want to reply back until I had a chance to look again at the footpeg position Carl. The heat that you are experiencing is not the same as what I get unfortunately. My ankle gets hot and mainly on the rearward portion, I'm pretty sure from the plate that carries the hinge where the rear footboard is. I think I'm going to need to pull that off and have a look.

+1 on that. All you need to do the whole job, replacing everything with kevlar lined stainless brake lines is to go here: http://www.pashnit.com/product/galfer/galfer_buynow.html#front and buy the Vmax front lines with 8" over and the standard Vmax rear. I did communicate to Tim Mayhew there that I wanted two 45" lines for the front with a double banjo. You can get your lines any color you like and even the banjos can be colored for an added price. Tim will take your input and then order kits for you that will give you everything you need except the bolt to plug the old rear master port while you swing your new rear line to the old front port. The plug is a 10mmX1.25 flange head bolt cut down to 8mm to 10mm in length and the end threads smoothed a little with a fine file. Ace Hardware has a 16mm long bolt in stainless that you can start with. There has been some discussion of gutting the proportional valving on the rear master but it doesn't seem necessary when the fluid can only go out the only open port left. While it's not absolutely necessary to replace the rear line to unlink the brakes, it is necessary if you move the line to the old front port, and the stainless line will perform better. There may be even better sources for these items but my experiences were good with the vendors I used. Pashnit provides free shipping and he even started out doing motorcycle touring on a Venture Royale, there's a write-up of that experience on his website! 2 - 45" front any color overlength 8" = $110 1 - 10mm X 1.25 stainless flange head bolt = $4 1 - standard Vmax rear brake line = $52 Your kits will include at least all of the copper washers that you will need. One more thing, Earl is a little like Seinfeld's Soup Nazi. If you don't ask him for a delink kit just the right way, it's "No soup for you". Trust me.

I wish I had it now. I always wanted one after seeing a picture in a magazine. I don't think I've ever heard one run though.

I have some reflective heat shielding that I was planning to install inside the cover over the side vent but I'm actually thinking I'll split some fiberglass insulation and tape it on inside with aluminum tape. I don't ride so much when it's cold enough to actually welcome the extra heat and my vents just won't stay closed. On the knees I have the opposite problem because they won't stay open. I'm thinking a very small dab of silicone at the main pivot points will make it resist flopping shut.

This part costs $20 to $30 and it seems to bolt the exhaust pipe on under the passenger footboards and those aluminum panels that carry the footboard hinge. Does anyone have a description to offer? Why so expensive? My right ankle is getting awfully hot riding around town and I'm wondering if I'm supposed to have a ceramic spacer or something there?

Did you just turn 55? DO you get a chirping sound all the time or only at a certain time of day? What are you doing when you hear the chirping sound? It absolutely is NOT normal.

I wasn't around then but they did scrap drives for WWII, going door to door and the like. I'll bet we lost a lot of those old classic motorbikes as well as other collectible metal stuff during those drives. I'm talking about the AJS, Norton, BMW, Excelsior Henderson, Indian, Harley, Enfield, BSA, Triumph, lesser known brands, etc., and a lot of old cars too.

If I hadn't found that picture it would've been driving me nuts. I'm just glad you tried to help.

Since Bird Engineering was located in Omaha and (one of?) their fab facilities was in the small town I grew up in, everyone had a minibike. I didn't, but I rode ones other kids had. They are collectible now of course. A few kids' yards were basically minibike trails. I then bought a very beat up green Honda Sport 90 that looked like Freebirds, but I remember it with a high straight pipe like a Trail 90 but I couldn't find a photo like that so it may have been a mod or a made-up memory? I started it using a On/Off toggle switch because I had one and tired of twisting the wires up. I rode it all over, snuck into places and rode the back roads. Kept it at a friends house or generally hid it. When I was 16 I asked my parents to let me buy a motorcycle. I had heard my brother fighting it out with my parents while growing up and they wouldn't give in. "It is too dangerous, we care about you too much, yada, yada". I asked, I persisted a little, then wham! "O.K. we will let you get a motorcycle". I couldn't believe it and I always sort of wondered if they cared less about me than my brother. Anyway I bought a 1968 Honda 350 Scrambler with a bad muffler that made it sound like it was a bigger bike than it was. That then was my first plated motorcycle. Photos are only representations, not actual. update: Found a Honda 90 photo that looks more like what I had, of course mine had no muffler.

I hope it's not that ejection seat mod.

It doesn't say but there's a phone number here: http://gfp.sd.gov/state-parks/directory/custer/campgrounds/sylvan-lake/default.aspx

A long time ago I stayed in a tent in Custer Mountain Cabins and Campground. It was really nice, had been the site of a mica mine so lots of shiny stuff on the ground at night by the moonlight. Otherwise, you could try for one of the campgrounds in Custer State Park itself since it's off-season. Try for Sylvan Lake. Update: Sylvan lake is showing several tent openings beginning around 9/9. I have site 29 in my cart right now for 9/15 - 9/20, but I'm releasing it now.

If you follow the advice I offered you can let your computer suggest spelling for you. Don't give up on yourself, learning to spell a little better will help you in the rest of your life.

http://totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/photos/tire-inflation.gifhttp://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/photos/tire-inflation.gif'nuff said.

I was exactly where you are now about two weeks ago. I drained the oil out of the leaky fork tube so that it won't cause trouble with my braking or tire traction. I won't ride it like this for long since I have the seal ready to put in I'm just not ready to do it yet. The tire will probably wear unevenly but I have been riding it with damping on only one side of the fork. This stuff does make me a little more intrigued by BMW's designs using a self-contained mono-shock on the front like the "Telelever" on a R1200GS. I am wishing I could just buy a shock and bolt it on. Good luck!

Starter Clutch Mod link and Freebird's entry in the 1st Gen Tech Library are what you need. Sorry to hear that you have to do this repair. I don't want to do it and today I heard no rude noises coming from my starter area so maybe I won't have to for a while.

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