Tensilon

Puc, Prednisone is a steroid that is very similar to the steroids manufactured by the adrenal glands on top of your kidneys. Long-term term use of any steroid will down-regulate your adrenal glands natural production of steroids in your body. Also it will not boost your immune system, it will make you more susceptible to any type of infection, both exogenous and endogenous. Steroids, prednisone included, are very good at reducing inflammation in any area of the body. As your primary alluded to steroids are best administered for short term use and long-term use may lead to other complications that you really don't need. Steroids are also released within your body when it is stressed and as such they do also tend to perk you up. When a pt that has hypofunction of the adrenal glands has to undergo the stress of a surgery he is given exogenous injectable steriods IV before the surgery to help his body better withstand the stress imposed upon him by the surgery. Steroids can have a very positive effect on one's body but as another stated, they are no magic bullet and they can also engender serious complications with overuse. In regard to other diagnostics, I would assume that your providers have run batteries of labs on you that would most certainly give them indications of inflammation being present within you if it is. It may be that a positive response to the steroid could lead them to further investigate issues that cause inflammation.... and these could be a myriad of things. I am glad that you are feeling better and I hope that you continue to improve. I also hope that they can get a handle on what it is that is causing your troubles. I am sure that it is frustrating you to no end. I do enjoy reading your rambling musings.... .. er I mean the wonderful and wise bits of wit and wisdom that you frequently use to grace and empower us with. Best of luck to you Puc;) Larry L

Hey, Try this URL... same seller but on US Ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anti-theft-Motorcycle-GSM-GPS-Tracker-SMS-Locator-Mini-Tracking-Device-System-/131361128950?pt=US_Tracking_Devices&hash=item1e95bbc1f6 Sounds pretty cool to me...

Check this link out..... lots of ideas and pics... Larry http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88951

David, It's done...and should be there for his birthday. A card, a short hopeful note from me, and a small gift appropriate for a young teenager$. When I hear of children suffering through difficult situations or bad things, I am always moved...I hope your loved ones find their way through this difficult time. Larry

All of the above is good advice. Please convey my thanks to your son and his family. Cover when you can.... Larry L....Semper Fi...

Just a few thoughts ....6'2" and 220 does not sound that bad. 200 I'm guessing u prolly look pretty fit and don't feel too bad there either. Those charts your primary is showing u have changed thru the years and the associated weights corresponding to what they say is normal have trended down. I have generally always had issues with those figures and I still dont give them alot of credence. Also low carb does not necessarily mean low or no protein. I have found that as I get older I do eat less red meat but I do still enjoy a good steak now and then. Chicken and fish are good too...for u I mean. Did he run an A1C on your labs? I bet he said to increase ur exercise or activity level also. This will help keep ur sugars down. If u know any registered dietician, talk to him or her. A1C is a measure of your sugars over a period of time...several months I believe and what ur looking for is something around 5 or so. Get yourself a blood sugar meter and check it urself occasionally. 70-100 is bout what is accepted as normal these days. If you are consistently around 100 ur probably doing pretty well. A man cant hardly live on rabbit food alone. Again am out of town on my phone....could speak with u better on a puter or in the chat room when I get home.....sounds like u are doing very well tho...congrats on your successes so far;) Larry

2nd that HID headlight, LED driving lights, and LED's everywhere else... Oh and a switchable driving light modulator...I want to be seen...

djh3, I am not sure what size adjure housings you have 3" or 4.5" so I am unsure what might work well for you. However, before I upgraded any of my lighting I did check out the type of bulb that you are referring to in your link and I agree with Jeff. Most of the folks that I found that did try these types of bulbs were pretty unhappy with the results. I do believe there are much better options out there for you. Larry.....

Hey, This guy came from Liberia.... and as I read it, he is the first Ebola case diagnosed in the US. The other four that came here were diagnosed overseas... so it's been here 5 times now and has been always brought over by people that were overseas in the infected areas. 4 of the 5 were health care workers... Also, it is a contact virus not airborne. One has to touch infected bodily fluids to get it. All is not lost... Larry.....

My bike is not an RSV it is a RSMTD however, I did install LED side marker lights to both front and back reflectors which have both running and turn signal functions. Looks stock until you turn on the key, then they are way bright. Definitely good to have some lights on the side of the bike in addition to the front and back. Cost me all of $20 for the LED's off of Ebay. Have some install pics if you are interested. Here is a few pics of the bike lighted up in the garage with the door shut. Larry....

Bird, The best deal I found on the Truck Lites is at Amazon: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AHH7FM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: Kuryakyn Phase 7 4-1/2" LED Passing Lamps 2005+ Harley 2247: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51g-2rsxuML.@@AMEPARAM@@51g-2rsxuML[/ame] They are Truck Lites but they are rebadged and sold by Kuryakyn as: Kuryakyn Phase 7 4-1/2" LED Passing Lamps 2005+ Harley 2247. Theses are the ones I used. Larry....

Here is a couple of pics of the Truck Lites LED's in the Yamaha OEM buckets. If you look closely you can see the aluminum ring that holds the lamp firmly into the bucket. Made the rings of flat, thin aluminum sheets...can't remember how thick it was probably around 40 to 50 thousandths. The width of the ring is probably about 5/16 inch. ID fits tightly around the lamp where the bezel would go and the OD is wide enough to catch the bezel of the OEM bucket. Solid... does not move. Forgive the bugs on the lamp and rings... It is necessary to grind down the 3/4-1 inch nuts inside the bucket that hold the buckets to the bar. I took them down to about 1/2 inch and this allowed plenty of room to put the Truck Lite lamps into the Yamaha buckets. Larry....

Ditto on colorrite.com.

Nickjandrews... I have a 2006 RSMTD and I have done the same thing with the carbs that you did same jets same pilot screws K&Ns performance slipons... I use my carb sync to set all 4 pilot screws to the maximum amount of suction that I can. I do each pilot screw separately. After setting the pilot screws I do a carb sink. I use the morgan carb tune. It runs like a champ after this. The only differences between your setup and mine is that I have not plugged off the AIS and I run a Dyna 3k ignition module. No pops or sputters at all with this setup and it is considerably easier then doing it as described above. Although I am sure that doing it the way toyodie described will do a very good job of tuning up your PMS it can be a heck a lot of work. Years ago this was the general method used for setting up and syncing multiple carburetors on automotive vehicles and it still seems to keep my bike running very well. Good luck... I'm sure you will get it as you wish. Larry

Birdman... I did just what you described only difference is that I already had the stock Yamaha bar and buckets on my bike. I bought the Truck Lite LED passing lamps and fitted them into the somewhat larger Yamaha buckets by trimming the stock bucket bolts down 1/2 inch and using a thin piece of aluminum to make rings that fit tightly around the edge of the Truck Lite lamps and also being just wide enough to fit under the rim of the buckets that holds the stock lamps in th bucket. The aluminum ring shines up nice holds the lamps rock solid and looks like it comes that way stock. Was an easy fix. Get back home from out of town job and I could post some pics. Not even a hint of being a custom job... Larry

Ditto on what Cagie said, I have some around my loading bench that I have used to make clips to attach button snap closures to for some IWB holsters that I have made for myself. You are not going to be sewing that onto anything. You could drill it to a small hole, maybe 1/16 inch or so... or maybe melt holes into it with small needles... Larry...

Randy, what Monty said and what you replied got me curious so I had to check it out and it appears that you are most generally right. What I found is that the RSV charging system uses a permanent magnet type AC Magneto alternator. The output of the stator is dependent upon the engine speed and the force of the magnetic field. The magnetic field is constant. Increasing the speed of the magnetic field variation is what increases the stator output. The stator produces a certain output at a certain rpm. In other words engine speed is what increases the stator output. The AC current produced by the generator is led through the rectifier inside the regulator/rectifier. The rectifier converts the AC phases produced by the generator to a single 14.4 Vdc output, a ground and a positive. Because the stator is producing power according to the engine speed, the stator output is too high all the time. This means that the output voltage of the regulator/rectifier would be way over 14.4 Vdc all the time, which would result in an overcharged battery and blowing electrical components on the bike that were meant to run on a voltage between 12 and 15 Vdc. The regulator looks at the DC voltage across the battery terminals and short circuits a certain amount of the power that is produced by the stator to ground. This is regulated constantly, so the output voltage of the regulator/rectifier stays at 14.4 Vdc all the time. So it would appear that running the bike to charge the battery will not overtax the stator as its output is more than enough to charge the battery and is in fact down-regulated by the regulator/rectifier constantly. At least that's the way I read it. . The main thing to remember when you jump start a bike with a car, is to not have the car running when you jump start the bike. The charging system on a car is a different animal than the one on a bike and you will likely fry your regulator/rectifier. Any thoughts? Larry...

On the other hand... If you were already hitching your bike up to a car battery you could probably have just jumped it off of said battery, ran it for awhile until it acquired some charge through your charging system, and then put it on the smaller charger to trickle some charge into the bike battery, or let it run for awhile as I am sure the charging system on the bike would have put some charge into the bike battery at a pretty quick rate... Larry...

Hey, Unsure of the SMH10 use in regard to the CB as I ride an RSMTD and it does not have a CB or com system but with the addition of the SM10 adapter I can Bluetooth the music from either my wife's phone or mine to both of our headsets. What the SM10 does is it allows 1 device to send music to 2 headsets. Otherwise if we wish we can just listen to the music on each of our own phones. Great units... have been trying to talk my brother-in-law into getting a set for my sister and himself so we can speak while riding but he is a little tight... I may just have to get them a set for Christmas or something as it really adds to the ride to have a communication element. On the other hand, if I happen to run the bike a little too fast for my wife's taste not only do I get the fingers digging into my lower back, I also get a sermon over the comm set.... Larry....

Hi Motiv... I have a set of Samson 29 inch turnouts on my 2006 RSMTD. They do not have removable baffles because of the turnout. Holding up real well. Does not bark like the Bub's on my brother in law's Road Star but they sound pretty good. No complaints here. No bluing from heat like on the Bub's ... no rust... the chrome appears to be pretty thick. Look pretty nice I think, and other's have stated that also... Larry

E3's front and rear...[emoji41]

Ditto on the 3M automotive grade double-sided trim adhesive tape;)

Under the tank on my 2006 rsmtd I put a strip of 18 or so leds on each side. There is a flat ledge on th tank and it works very well. I am on my phone right now, stuck working for the next 4 days, can answer more fully when I get home on a regular computer. There are more places that lend themselves very well to lighting... under seat...bags....under air cleaners....etc.

"4,300 Kelvin indicates a white light with a slightly yellow tint. It is fairly close in color to sunlight. In HID lamps, this color gives the most visible light. It is generally chosen by car manufacturers because of its high performance." If you check it out you will find this is generally true in regard to OEM HIDs. I ended up installing a H4 xenon HID kit with a 4300 K bulb from these guys : http://www.kbcarstuff.com/H4-HID-Kits-s/10071.htm Followed that up with Truck Lite Phase 7 LEDs in the Yamaha buckets. Lights up the road at night like all get-out. Have the passing lights set to the ditches somewhat as there are way too many deer in northern MN. Brother in law could just as soon shut off his setup when riding with me at night. He is still using halogens. And I do have them aimed properly. No problems with folks hitting me with their high beams. BTW those Truck Lites are somewhat small for the Yamaha buckets but that was an easy fix by shortening the mounting nut one half an inch and making an aluminum ring to fit tightly around the edge of the lamp and wide enough to grab the edge of the bucket. Works well for me and I am also on the back side of the hill but don't feel like it. Just something more to ponder... Larry L