cowpuc

:sign yeah that: Prayers Up continually!!!

We been stuck here at home for a tad,,,, cutting weeds, resealing the deck, washing the back of the house and all that fun stuff.. Did get bored and me and Tip "rode" Trooper up to the Mackinaw Bridge for an overnight excursion a couple nights ago.. Got a week of watching the Grandson in Michigan coming up and then it's fly the coop time... Aint had much of chance to do much predatorizing,, matter of fact,, been far to long since I even shot a shooter.. Now ya got my trigger finger itchin,, may have to sneak away from that slave driv,, wonderful bride of mine and touch off a few rounds.. If it happens I will make a video of proof just for you brother!! How bout yourself... Still chasing ol' Wiley T Coyote down yonder or did cha get em all? Hope and pray all is well health, weather and ridin with you and yours brother!!! ,, we hi-jacked ol Fozzy Bears thread

Who's we? Got a mouse in your pocket SLYvester???

NICE,,, REALLY NICE Lewis!! What would be xtra nice and special would be if some lop eared freedom riding varmint who was part of that series of romping riding down the Cherahola would put names with the pics so I had a clue of who was who would share that info with us, the unknowing

I am not positive on that one Radar,, all 6 of the MK1 Ventures I took out to retirement were 83's except one of them which was an 84. That was a Royale and it did have the "updated" aluminum impellar in it already but not sure if it came OEM like that. It did only have 24k miles on it when I aquired it out of an estate sale (PO had passed away). It did NOT have the updated stator in it though but it did already have the aluminum impellar so it is possible that the plastic impellar only effected the 83's..

I've owned a few of the 83's and put a few miles on em and all mine have liked to hang out at about 1 needles worth of distance from the red zone when up to operating tempt.. I know it seems illogical for Mom Yam to have engineered such a close tolerance to overheat according to the gauge but that is where mine always ran their best and ran the coolest. That said, I will also tell ya that I also discovered plastic water pump impellars in those early scoots that were pretty much gone and were only operating at about 20% of intended water movement.. Upgrading to the later year models aluminum water pump impellar did an amazing job of bringing the water pump efficiency back up to par, providing for a much cooler/normal cool operating bike engine even in the hottest of desert tempts and stationary scenario's like road construction zones where ya gotta "creep" for miles and miles in tempts over 100 degrees... Checking the pump for the upgrade would be first on my list if I didnt know for sure which impellar it has in it and I was headed west for a month of summer fun out CTFW... Puc

100% totally awesome brother!!! Soooo much to see/do/smell/taste and experience out in that area,,, endless amazement and you lucky lop eared CTFW varmint are right in the heart of it all = GOOD ON YA!! If your CTFW finds you back in the Wall Drug/Badlands direction and you have time and happened to have missed em,,, take a second and pull off at exit 116 going east on 90 just past Wall S.D. (Wall Drug tourist trap),, hook a right at the bottom of the ramp and follow the gravel road (in GREAT shape = we recently camped on the praire there) back to the Minute Man Missle Silo. Includes a REAL Minute Man Ballistic Missle still in the silo.. Pipestone Minnisota is another life changer if ya have time,, not far North of 90 just inside the Minnisota line.. Native Americans have been coming to this spot to dig up pipe stone to make peace pipes - both FACINATING places if your into U.S. history stuff!! GREAT to hear all is well! ENJOY my friend!! Puc

OUTSTANDING RYDER!!!! Glad to hear you got er done and are out CTFW!! Where ya at and how's the weather, roads, people, sites and sounds? ,,, ,,easier to answer with a few pic's Ride safe brother and have fun!! Puc

While CTFW in the HOV along the top of the "99" out in California - Tip, Tweeks and I came upon a slow cager using the HOV,,, swung out to pass em and catch back up to the normal flow of life in the fast lane.. When passing the cage now on our left side, I looked over and noticed the driver of the cage in the HOV had his arm around one of those blow up dolls (yes,, she was clothed = the driver AND the blow up doll ya bunch of lop eared perverted varmints)... I bumped Tip and said = "HOV sign says 2 or more,,, guess the guy passes the test but I wonder if the two of them were speeding,, which one would get the ticket :happy65:".. Life on the road,, gotta LOVE IT!!

yeah,, I was having a rough day and needed to post a bike up to cheer up my itchy bike buying finger... Couldn't find a decent 1st Gen to really bring on a good case of the 's so I defaulted to a second best 2nd Gen Sorry for causing the burning of the eyes brother Here's a rainy day vid of fun chasing away the rain to get us back on track!!

The black plastic titted spacer is OEM,,, Mom Yam's bold attempt at making the metering rod depth of engagement non adjustable. To fine tune by fattening up or leaning em down at the main jet can be accomplished by adding/subtracting nylon washers for metering rod height.. I do mine with washers from Ace Hardware but I do know that we have a member that sells "kits" for doing exactly that.. Skydoc is his name and he is a guru when it comes to this stuff. BTW,, it only takes a pin hole or a faulty seal with a tiny leak to suck in enough fresh air and cause a lot of backfiring.. Those pin hole(s) can be small enough that they will go undetected as far as actual noise being emitted from them,,, dont take much of a leak to allow air in and BINGO = backfire!!

I can always tell if Tweeks has a pin hole or a bad seal on her pipes as she will start backfiring at the first sign of fresh air being sucked into the exhausts.. Not that aftermarket pipes arent completely capable of being a good system as far as controlling such non-sense but a lot of times their "fit" isnt quite up to par with OEM - I think I would be looking at those first..

My very favorite part is right at the end where one of my hero's on the Wing roost's the guy on the dirt bike who is trying to keep up with him to catch it all on video :guitarist 2:... Closely followed in second place IMHO is the dirt bike (looks like an old twin shock Yamaha YZ?) on the trailer over the whoops :crackup::crackup:behind the Wing :crackup:!!!!!!!! EXCELLENT FIND RADAR = THANKS FOR POSTING THIS = YOU MADE MY DAY!!!!! Side note = now if anyone from this day forward asked why I keep saying that I gotta have mid-ship controls and LOVE the control they offer I will just refer them to this video,, just tell them to watch this and imagine trying it on a scoot with no mid-ships!!!!!!:guitarist 2::guitarist 2::guitarist 2:

https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/mcy/d/greenville-2007-yamaha-venture-royal/6960615425.html

You are welcome brother,, anytime!

Wayyy cool brother!! WAYYY COOL!! Livin young and got some muscle left I see .. All though,, it was a little hard for these geezer eyeballs to actually tell what's what so I took liberity and resized.. Not it appears I am seeing 3 Stangs in the middle, a Vette,, possibly a Dodge Charger in purple and,, guessing,, either a mid 80's Stang square back convert or a Merc Capri on the end...

Good stuff Graham,, both this most recent blog and a quick scroll down to your VR blog that I missed while out CTFW(s) on the west coast.. Both VERY well done brother IMHO!! Keep the faith! Puc

,, I got a least 1 extra hp just by swapping my plugs and adjusting the carbs giving Tweeks 91 hp.. This seems like a lot of work for that 1 more hp to me

Of course,, it's your bike and as usual,, my opinion is worth no more than anyone elses (IMHO of course) = opinion + $1 will get cha a large coke at Micky D's ) but if it were mine to torture I would raise the front end and move the bars lock to lock slowly while I felt for any for of the notchies.. Years ago while spinning wrenches for a living on scoots we had a rash of neck bearing replacements come thru - most but not all were MX bikes. Knowing that neck bearings are basically no more than a typical Timken like used on Auto spindles and some HD cranks (VERY DURABLE) and being of the curious sort I started asking owners if they we folks who power washed their scoots a lot.. Almost 100 percent of those quried came back with being avid power washer addicts. My theory now stands that neck bearings are not normally damaged by over torqueing but are actually damaged by water being forced in and then captured to create a rust line in the non-rotating Timken.. This said, once the dent/wear line/pitting is significant enough to cause issues,, it can also be fairly easily felt just by going lock to lock with no weight on the forks.. I would trust that the bikes low speed wobble was probably due to wear on the front tire and that, as you said Newkirk, the bearing adjustment was not healthy and unless I had a pretty good indicator that the bearings were notched,, I would leave em backed off and go riding instead of spinning wrenches.. Either way though brother,, GLAD you got the findings you did and VERY glad to hear no more death wobbling up there at speed,, definitely scary stuff not just for you but also for those who love ya brother!! As usual in my geezerly state,, I know I am a dollar short to the game here in posting this but I did find some info on how I have set neck bearings on scoots for years now.. The following pics and text should be fairly easy to follow (unlike one of my lame description attempts. Note that this is old school stuff using a mechanical fish scale and most shops who use this method have advanced to digital scales (a LOT more accurate and VERY inexpensive) but the plan is still the same. Also note that I have found the scales to be very handy for other stuff like measuring trigger pull and hammer spring strength but also for monitoring neck bearing wear on a scoot just by recording settings and keeping an eye on them occasionally.. The digitals are also really helpful in detecting bearing notching,, all you do is hook up the scale as shown only instead of just watching the weight of pull for movement, you pull all the way thru lock to lock and watch the scale for clicky movement - make sense? Hope this helps in some small way... Puc

My theory is that due to the width of the contact surface on a car tire to surface, the car tire will last a LOT longer. A brand new bike tire, properly mounted/balanced and inflated has about a 2 inch contact area area to surface and is radiused up to the side wall and as its usefulness and handling charectoristics deminish it wear "square" and becomes similar to the car tire contact area. It makes sense that the car tire would have a longer life, especially when riding high temp desert region highways where rubber gets taken off like a kid licking an ice cream cone BUT,, it makes sense to my pea brain that some of the handling charectoristics that happen when a bike tire squares off from wear would also be noticable with a bike with a car tire compared to a squared off bike tire. The ability for the bikes frame to pass on movement from one radiused tire to another tire of the same condition and self correct those dynamics is well known to be an issue with tire wear in bike racing. That is the primary reason that left over used track bike tires are plentiful for purchase at cheaply.. In my back yard mechanical pea brain theory that you ask for,, I wonder if the same extended contact surface that is offering huge benifits in miles of usage, if that same surface is resisting the movement needed for the bike to self correct in little movements that are happening continously at the bars thru both air movement across the fairing and changes in road surfaces. This is probably gonna sound wayy out there but I have found that torque on the steer bearings will act very similar to a steer dampner. I never really cared for dampeners on my dirt bikes (no idea about now adays but back when I was competing on the MX tracks and woods riding it was VERY common to see aftermarket dampners on bikes) but chose to use precision in my steer bearing adjustments instead and found I got similar results.. Knobby dirt tires are well known for their non existent resistance to side movement and/or balancing charectoristics and when you run them up into high speeds (over 90 mph) on open class two tracks - tank slappers were not common.. Adjusting the neck bearings in 1/2 pound increments on a digital scale at the bar ends worked awesome for controlling a lot those scary moments, maybe not as proficient as a high end dampner but for someone not wanting to fight a dampner in the low speed stuff,, it worked well.

Nice chattin with ya brother! Definitely a mystery,,, please let us know if you do fatten up those metering rods a slight and what happens if you do!! Always something interesting happening around the club I tell ya!! All the best! Puc

I would triple check your fairing for looseness while checking it out. Also take a peek at the bar perches for looseness, especially if you by chance happened to have just used straps on the bars to hold it on a lift? My limited (and VERY limited) experience with Darksiding is one that showed me some difference in what we are speaking of Corporal,,, couple that with forward controls (I have always really appreciated mid controls for their handling abilities,,, even beyond being able to get on the pegs and/or use foot/knee pressure to steer with) and I can see where getting the steer bearings spot on in adjustment, especially when running a brand new front tire who's contact patch to pavement is narrowed cause its new.. What kind of air pressure are you running front and back? Are the tires both radial or biased or a mix? IMHO,, and this is probably wayyy off,,, a car tire,, because of its increased area of contact to the pavement may actually be working against your steering geometry by holding the bike "stiff" - sort of like what Rabbit mentions about stiff arming during a tank slapper = bad move IMHO.. I am gonna dig around and see if I can find some data on how I set up neck bearings. The info may come from one of my past MX track bikes but may be helpful in your case. If I can something I will snap up some pics and post them,,, other wise I will gladly post a step by step from memory (if I can even find that = that may actually be more difficult ) if you wish? Again,, just an opinion but you could have a mix of things going on that is a little more complicated... This will be interesting and a learning experience for all of us but could be a dangerous one,, PLEASE take it little by little my dearest brother!!!

Yup,, you are describing my R1 to a tee Rabbit... It's the early model with no dampner so there's that. It likes to follow the pavement in precision and irregularites in pavenment alone can cause some mighty scary movements even above 165.. It always responds perfectly to the throttle as you suggest but could/would be a handful to the timid during off track (non perfect pavement) play.. My KX500 was exactly the same way,, keep the front end light and it was a knife.. What liter bikes ya got?? Good night talk about FUN,,, adrenaline filled FUN!!

Gearhead,, I just tried to call you at your number listed in your profile and got a wrong number.. Please advise.. THANKS Puc

Oh,, by the way Gearhead,, do you have any experience with tuning NON CV Carbs?