Valve Adjustment

[BG Hawks]

Coming up on 26k miles on my 06 venture. Been dreading this as I know its that time for valve adjustment and as long as I'm there I want to check the float levels on the carbs. This maybe (probably) beyond my pay grade with regards to my capabilities. So as I sit here pondering the task I thought that I would reach out for some thoughts and advice.

 

1. How hard is it?

2. Any idea what a shop would charge? Not that there ever is a good time for a expense but I had tuition for my youngest and vacation bills hit the credit card so needless to say the savings account is wiped out.

 

This is a great place!

[Flyinfool]

Checking and adjusting the valves is not hard to do, but it does take a lot of time. That is why the stealer is so expensive for the job. We have talked many mechanically challenged people through the job.

 

As for the carbs. I have never been into mine so I can give no credible advice there.

[djh3]

I would say I am above average on the skill set. Been making my living one way or another thru mechanical ability. But when it came to this just I was really apprehensive about digging in. Biggest thing is there is about 8 hours of getting it ready to take apart to do an hours or so job. Tank has to come off, right side front leg fairing, drain coolant system, remove air box. there are some lines and hoses on top that have to be either removed or relocated during operation. Then you can actually get to the valve covers. LOL I had no idea how the leg fairing stuff came apart so I really took my time researching and trying to figure out how it all went together.

The hold up on this deal is once you get to inspecting things if you have just the tool, to adjust you need shims to swap out. Well if you have to order them that's going to take a couple days shipping. there are a couple kits floating around members have to "loan" with shims on a replace what you use rule. Skydoc has valve cover gasket kit and the other odd bits that really need to be replaced when you do this. Same shims are used on FJ1200, a Honda cbr900 or something Triumph lots of bikes so they are not hard to find. It is knowing which ones you need when you got it torn down.

I dont know what your "comfort or skill level" is but I would say an average guy if he takes his time and follows directions can accomplish this. Dont get in a RUSH. Check everything 2 or 3 times when measuring to make sure you get the same reading say 2 out of 3 times. I'm anial I would check and get reading across motor, rotate thru once or twice, then take readings again across engine. I did this like 4 or 5 times and used the readings I got consistently.

So next time you have a bit of free time and its to hot to ride, to wet to ride or you just have insomnia here is a write up on the procedure.

[bongobobny]

Yah!! It is doable with average mechanical skills but it is precise and time consuming! A bill of anywhere between $400 to $800 is kind of normal...

[Guest Jamsie]

valve clearances are doable for the amature mechanic , as lomg as you are happy weilding spanners and can use feeler guages competantly.

Freebird has a guide on removing the carbs.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?7830-Removing-the-Carbs-from-the-RSV

this is very easy to do. i would suggest replacing any carb clamp scews with new stainless screws if you have any trouble with them .

V7Goose did an excellent walkthrough on valve adjustment .

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?38545-Valve-Adjustment

you will also need a special tool to hold down the shim buckets. not sure if Flinfool still has any for sale.

you will notice a small notch in the shim bucket, this is so you can pry up the shim , but as you turn the cam to insert the tool , the buckets will rotate so turn them away from where you wish them to end up. nb the shim buckets will rotate opposite directions , ie left will turn clockwise and right anticlockwise as you turn the cams

Edited August 7, 2016 by Jamsie

[BG Hawks]

$400-$800 is ouch. Sounds like I will be studying up for this one!

[bongobobny]

There ya go!! Of course once you find how much time and work is involved you will understand the cost, strictly in labor!! It's definitely more than a one or two hour job...

 

Very doable though!

[stickhandle2]

BG, I am in the same boat, the valve cover gasket on my 02 is starting to seep a bit of oil, so if I am going to change the gasket may as well check the valves. put some time aside, get some shims and the tool and away we go.

 

Mike

[Marcarl]

I think you may be a bit early with that sort of maintenance. Does the bike run rough? having mileage issues? If my memory serves me correct a lot of guys checked theirs at 60k and didn't find anything really to change much. I did my 85 when I had it out for 2nd gear fix and changed some shims, but nothing really earth shattering at 50k miles.

Dealers are a wonderful bunch, but I often wonder if they really ever do a valve check, even though they might charge for having done it. There is no way to check whether they did or didn't do the work, and many may say: it runs fine so why go through all the effort. At 26k we would be doing nothing anyways, but we'll charge for it to make him happy.

You may not need a lot of shims seeing as you might be able to exchange them one valve to another. My local dealer is happy to do an exchange for me whenever I might need some, that way they don't have to do that 'useless' job.

[DarrinGT]

It thought the first was scheduled around 32K miles. I did mine at 40K, had to change a couple but nothing alarming. Was not planing on doing it again till 100K, but sold it at 70K. Now the 07 that I bought has 14K on it and I will wait till 50k or so to do it to that one.

[Flyinfool]

The problem with waiting is that by the time it is running bad, you may already have burnt valves. It will not start to run bad until the clearance gets to ZERO. Once it hits ZERO the valve will no longer seal and the leakage will burn up the valve. It is the leaking valve that makes the engine run bad.

 

Some, maybe even many, have needed no adjustment till after 60K miles, and then only a slight adjustment, this is true. Others Like me decided to wait a while. I did mine at 50K for the first time and had 3 valves they were down to less than .001, As in my .001 feeler would not go in, yet the shim could still be rotated in the bucket so it was still more than the dreaded ZERO, but not by much. I was probably not many miles away from doing severe engine damage. ALL of mine needed adjustment, not a single valve was in spec some worse than others. I set all of mine to exactly the high limit to give the longest possible time till they need to be done again.

 

So it comes down to "Do you feel lucky"

 

Even if you do t,he check and they are all good at least you have the peace of mind in knowing that they are all good, and sure that you do not have a ticking time bomb. Do you stop checking tire pressure regularly because sometimes it is ok and does not need to be adjusted?

 

As for a stealer charging for a valve check and not doing it. In most cases you can tell if there are new valve cover gaskets installed, I would find it hard to believe that it would be worthwhile for a dealer to get that far in and not do the easy part of the job. I can believe a dealer would blow the whole job off but still charge for it.

[djh3]

A couple of well placed alignment marks on bolt heads would probably tell you ift hey at least took the valve cover off. Easy part is the shims in and out. All the external @#%$ is whats a PIA.