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pic of carb cables


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My friend Henry took the carb set off his '86 or '87 and having trouble re-installing the cables. He's looking for pictures of carbs/cables routing. I only had the carbs off my '84 once and remember installing the cables was a bear. But another friend Aron had the cables off his '86 a few times and advised to install the cables on the carb set with them upside down, then flip and slide in over the manifold boots. so I shared this with Henry but he says that "one cable is unsupported and just aint right". He was wondering if he lost a support bracket and says the manual is no help. Can anyone share a close up picture of their '86 or '87 showing the left side carbs with cable routing?

 

thanks!

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Don't have any pictures but I remember that the primary cable does not run on the outside of the shaft with the nylon spacer as you might think. It runs on the inside. Do the return cable first and then the primary.

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The cable with the adjuster on it is the "pull to open" cable and it goes into the cable cup that is furthest to the left side (left as in left side if sitting on the bike) cable cup. This is the cable that Marcarl is talking about that routes behind (or to the right) of the linkage with the nylon washer on it. The other cable will probably have 2 cable barrels on it - one on the end and one between the end of the cable itself and the cable covering - this cable is the return cable and it goes into the receiving cup furthest to the right (or closest to the center line between the two front carbs.

I have always found it easiest to thread and hook up the cables to the carb linkages while the carb bank is outside of the frame spar to the left side because you can turn the carbs over and work from beneath. After hooking up the cables to the carb linkage - leave the cables out of their holding cups and the adjuster on the pull cable to full slack until you get the carbs back in the bike. After the carbs are in place you can place the cables into their holding cups and readjust the cable for the correct amount of throttle play..

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A few pictures that may help:

 

Here is a picture of the "pull" cable:

DSCN2937.JPG

 

and it goes in this "cup" - this is also the cable that you need to make sure goes behind the nylon "washer" on the linkage shaft:

DSCN2940.JPG

 

This is the return cable:

DSCN2939.JPG

 

and the return cable goes into this cup:

DSCN2941.JPG

 

and this is what your friends carbs should look like - notice 2 cable cups:

DSCN2942.JPG

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  • 2 years later...
Don't have any pictures but I remember that the primary cable does not run on the outside of the shaft with the nylon spacer as you might think. It runs on the inside.

Do I have the primary throttle cable routed incorrectly then? I currently have it on the outside of the white plastic bearing. Is it supposed to be on the inside?

 

Seems weird that it would be routed that way because I don't think the cable would ever touch the plastic bearing if the cable is routed on the inside. What purpose does the plastic bearing serve then?

20180914_000605-1.jpg

Edited by Bob K.
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Do I have the primary throttle cable routed incorrectly then? I currently have it on the outside of the white plastic bearing. Is it supposed to be on the inside?

 

Seems weird that it would be routed that way because I don't think the cable would ever touch the plastic bearing if the cable is routed on the inside. What purpose does the plastic bearing serve then?

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114412

 

That piece of nylon is a spacer for the stuff on the shaft, the cable should not run on it although it might seem that way. Installing the cables is a literal PITA and even more so the way you have it routed, it can be done, but you'll find throttle response is horrible. Best is to go back-up and route the cable rightly.

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That piece of nylon is a spacer for the stuff on the shaft, the cable should not run on it although it might seem that way. Installing the cables is a literal PITA and even more so the way you have it routed, it can be done, but you'll find throttle response is horrible. Best is to go back-up and route the cable rightly.

I found a couple other pictures on the Googles that show that routing as well. Ugh. If you need me, I'll be out in the garage. :(

 

I'm still curious about the purpose of that white plastic bearing. There's nothing on or near the starter lever shaft right there that would require a rolling surface.

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Don't all the gen 1 bikes have the cable junction box under the left side fairing? I thought this was genius when I found it the first time I pulled the carbs on The Beast. No need to fight the cable installation on the bike. The cables can be installed on the bench and then connected after reinstalling the carbs.

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I found a couple other pictures on the Googles that show that routing as well. Ugh. If you need me, I'll be out in the garage. :(

 

I'm still curious about the purpose of that white plastic bearing. There's nothing on or near the starter lever shaft right there that would require a rolling surface.

 

That white bearing goes in the hole on the carb where the rod runs thru I cant remember placement of them all but there is a reason...

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Don't all the gen 1 bikes have the cable junction box under the left side fairing? I thought this was genius when I found it the first time I pulled the carbs on The Beast. No need to fight the cable installation on the bike. The cables can be installed on the bench and then connected after reinstalling the carbs.

Concur. That was the only way I could get the stinkin' things back on. All the guys talking about attaching them when the carbs are back on the bike--without splitting the cables at the junction box--are magicians in my book.

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I might be a little late on this, but the throttle cable goes on the inside of the starter rod. If it is installed on the outside as shown in the picture, it will cause the throttle cable to hang up and not let the carbs return to idle. I had a buddy who had it on the outside and when we moved it to the proper inside position, then his throttle cable was easier to move and the bike would return to idle when released.

 

Rick F.

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