LED wiring issues

[dna9656]

Your picture is so small I can't read it, when enlarging it to a readable size it turns into fuzzy mush.....got a better one?

 

like an earlier post, I had to read then reread, take notes and pull up multiple copies and I'm still not sure.

 

First, did you at one point convert one end of the bike to LED (i.e did the front not the back) and are now adding the other end?

Second, if you did convert in two stage which end was first?

 

If you did in fact convert one end prior you wont need the resistor at the other end also I have an alternate diagram of how to hook up the resistor[ATTACH=CONFIG]96832[/ATTACH]

[Flyinfool]

Here is another shot at my thread.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77042

 

I still think that you can make the LED bulbs that you have work by just adding a cheap diode in the flasher wire.

 

If you want you can send me one of your LEDs that does not work on your bike and I will try it on my bike. If/when it don't work I will figure out how to make it work and then send your bulb back with instructions and parts to make it work.

I love a challenge.

[baylensman]

Your picture is so small I can't read it, when enlarging it to a readable size it turns into fuzzy mush.....got a better one?

 

yes i'll try and do it if/when i get home today. basically what you want to do is run the load/resistor across the lamp circut, not along the circut. Try this take the resister and run it from the turn signal hot wire to the turn signal (shared? ) ground wire not a chasssis ground. If you are doing all 4 (front and rear) only do the one circut (front or rear not both)

 

We've discussed the difference between 1156 and 1157 to death n this post, I'll add another number to confuse the or solve the issue 1076 this is a twin contact single filament bulb, it is used where there is no or limited ground contact (rubber mounted lamps) the two contacts at the bottom are postive and negative, the socket is not grounded.

 

Also one last thing, I remember my dad telling me about tail light wires, back in the 60 when he did Uhauls at the gas station. WHEN IN DOUBT TURN ABOUT!. trying clocking the bulb (s) 180' in the socket, in other words put them in wrong and just see what happens. do both lights go out? do both go steady? do both blink? does only the one circut light up? (what you have now). Does it work correctly? not impling the bulb is in wrong but the diagnoses (sp?) will help the rest of help you figure it out? Every time I read this post my brain hurts:bang head:

Edited January 30, 2015 by baylensman

[dna9656]

I have the load resistor LR) EXACTLY as pictured in the diagram above, the lr is on the blinker hot then to the blinker/running light ground. I change it around to the running ling light to the shared ground, I put butt connectors on the wires so i could reverse the polarity of the socket. I have worked on only the left side. I have wried only ONE resistor in this whole mess, it's connected as described above. I have never run it tyo chassis ground because it just might go intot he flasher unit. I don't know but it could be a dedicated ground so I'm thinking that would be the one to use.

This makes my head hurt too.

[Neil86]

Doug

I think if you test your LED bulb base on the 2 power pins you will find continuity in both directions so they have no diode to block backfeed.

I don't agree its grounding back to flasher unit (due to normally open turn signal switch).

I think because its already dropped voltage due to the internal resistor on running light side (to attain dual intensity) that is just feeding back to signal circuit and through your dash signal indicator and the load resistor. Is the turn indicator dimly light on that side?

The reason the brake/tail lights work fine with the same LED bulbs is tail light backfeed into brake circuit has nowhere to go except the other LED bulb. Just a hunch that if you were to run one LED and one incandescent in the brake/tail light sockets you would find the LED tail light not working and the incandescent tail light working, and the incandescent brake light dimly lit.

Edited January 31, 2015 by Neil86

[Flyinfool]

Neil

There are a lot of possibilities. For the most part we are guessing at this point, granted it is educated guesses, but still guesses. That is why I offered to have him send me the bulb so I could hook up meters and see what the real issues and solutions are.

[dna9656]

You're ON!!! I'll not only send you ONE Troubled LED but I will send you TWO troubled LEDs to double your challenge and therefor DOUBLE your pleasure just like DOUBLE-MINT GUM!!!! Please provide necessary info via pvt msg.

[dna9656]

Doug

I think if you test your LED bulb base on the 2 power pins you will find continuity in both directions so they have no diode to block backfeed.

I don't agree its grounding back to flasher unit (due to normally open turn signal switch).

I think because its already dropped voltage due to the internal resistor on running light side (to attain dual intensity) that is just feeding back to signal circuit and through your dash signal indicator and the load resistor. Is the turn indicator dimly light on that side?

The reason the brake/tail lights work fine with the same LED bulbs is tail light backfeed into brake circuit has nowhere to go except the other LED bulb. Just a hunch that if you were to run one LED and one incandescent in the brake/tail light sockets you would find the LED tail light not working and the incandescent tail light working, and the incandescent brake light dimly lit.

 

You guys are so clever! I will try that.

Any wisdom on getting the front wheel bearing out? I got a blind puller but it's just a LITTLE too big...