Front Fork Separation..

[KIC]

So I got the forks off and the springs removed. I cannot figure out the removal of the 10mm hex head bolt in the bottom of the forks. I can get it to turn, but not loosen. The manual talks about some special tool, but I don't see any mention in the instructions I am following.

 

Help ??? How do I remove those bolts ????

Edited February 5, 2012 by KIC

[utadventure]

We changed Sam's out while still in the bike (instructions here in the tech section).

 

With the top part of the fork secured, you can pull down on the lower half and using an impact wrench you can remove the bolt.

 

To replace the bolt, you can put the handle of a broom into the bottom and while having someone apply pressure, you can reinstall the bolt and tighten.

 

Good luck!

 

Dave

 

Wish I was back in Tucson, I'd be glad to help.

[Yammer Dan]

There is a tool made with the head of a bolt. Should be in here somewhere.

You have to fashion something to fit in the hex head to keep it from turning. Can't remember what we used. Maybe a extension and socket with a bolt turned upside down lock two nuts togather to keep from turning in the socket. Trap it in socket til it won't fall out insert head of bolt in hex head in tube?? Make sense??

Edited January 31, 2012 by Yammer Dan

[Yammer Dan]

Got it?

[KIC]

Got it?

 

If you are asking about confusion.... Got it !

[KIC]

We changed Sam's out while still in the bike (instructions here in the tech section).

 

With the top part of the fork secured, you can pull down on the lower half and using an impact wrench you can remove the bolt.

 

To replace the bolt, you can put the handle of a broom into the bottom and while having someone apply pressure, you can reinstall the bolt and tighten.

 

Good luck!

 

Dave

 

Wish I was back in Tucson, I'd be glad to help.

 

I had to remove the forks for other reasons/repairs/maintenance. I will try the impact wrench, but the bolt seems to be turning already, just not loosening.

[Pegasus1300]

put the big plug from the top of the forks back in with the fork spring in place and screw it down.That will put enough pressure on the inner pieces to allow you to remove the 10mm allen head bolt from the bottom but you will still need an air or electric impact wrench to make it happen.Rent, buy (Harbour Freight),borrow whatever one and it will be much easier.

[Snaggletooth]

A section of 5/8" All Thread rod long enough to reach down inside the damper. Nuts jammed or LocTited on the ends. The nuts fit the damper to hold it in place. Wrench on the other end.

 

 

 

Mike

[MiCarl]

A section of 5/8" All Thread rod long enough to reach down inside the damper. Nuts jammed or LocTited on the ends. The nuts fit the damper to hold it in place. Wrench on the other end.

 

 

 

Mike

 

 

You can also get a 5/8" bolt and jam a couple nuts on that. Use some extensions to get the socket down to the bolt.

 

In case you're wondering what's going on - the bolt you're trying to remove screws into the damping rod. The top of the rod has a 12 point recess that is just like a socket and you're 5/8 bolt head will lock right in.

 

Since the Damping rod is loaded by the spring I always try to break that bolt loose during the first step of dissassembly, more than half the time I end up not needing to grab it from the top. Once you get it spinning though the spring is unlikely to help.

[Rocket]

 

You can also get a 5/8" bolt and jam a couple nuts on that. Use some extensions to get the socket down to the bolt.

 

In case you're wondering what's going on - the bolt you're trying to remove screws into the damping rod. The top of the rod has a 12 point recess that is just like a socket and you're 5/8 bolt head will lock right in.

 

Since the Damping rod is loaded by the spring I always try to break that bolt loose during the first step of dissassembly, more than half the time I end up not needing to grab it from the top. Once you get it spinning though the spring is unlikely to help.

 

For doing these on the bike & not just on the bench. I have a welded double nutted bolt, that is also welded into an old 15/16ths socket, for holding the damper rod. I need it normally for reassembly, as I also use the impact for disassembly.

[Prairiehammer]

Fork tools:

And go here for pics of rebuild by bkuhr (Brian Kuhr):

http://s767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/bkuhr/fork%20rebuild/

Edited January 31, 2012 by Prairiehammer

[KIC]

Fork tools:

And go here for pics of rebuild by bkuhr (Brian Kuhr):

http://s767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/bkuhr/fork%20rebuild/

 

 

Thanks everybody.. I think I understand now what/how to do it. :happy65:What is the large PVC pipe with the hex head looking end in the picture used for ?

[GaryZ]

Thanks everybody.. I think I understand now what/how to do it. :happy65:What is the large PVC pipe with the hex head looking end in the picture used for ?

 

OK, the bolt on the bottom of the fork tube is screwed into a bracket inside the fork tube. This bracket is a large female hex looking thing (5/8' per others here). You must hold this bracket in order to remove the bottom bolt. A number of homemade devices have been described in this thread. I had a mechanic tell me his method and I have used it successfully. I use a broom handle that has the end carved into a tapered square. Jam the square inside the fork and spin the bolt with a high speed impact. Put it back in the reverse . . .

 

[Condor]

OK, the bolt on the bottom of the fork tube is screwed into a bracket inside the fork tube. This bracket is a large female hex looking thing (5/8' per others here). You must hold this bracket in order to remove the bottom bolt. A number of homemade devices have been described in this thread. I had a mechanic tell me his method and I have used it successfully. I use a broom handle that has the end carved into a tapered square. Jam the square inside the fork and spin the bolt with a high speed impact. Put it back in the reverse . . .

 

 

That's kinda along the lines I was thinking. My thought was to get a 1 1/2" dowel... or broom handle with one end cut off.. and drill a hole in the end to take a 5/8's bolt. Bugger up the threads of the bolt with a hammer and then coat them with JB Weld. Stuff the bolt in the hole and let the JB cure. Wah-la.. Fork Tool...

[Snaggletooth]

Thanks everybody.. I think I understand now what/how to do it. :happy65:What is the large PVC pipe with the hex head looking end in the picture used for ?

 

 

Yep, those are my tools for seals.

 

The PVC is my seal driver I use on the MKI and probably on the MKII forks I'm going to be doing.

 

The end with the hex is the end for driving the seal in. This was a new driver I was putting together so the hex was still on it. I grind that off to fit the ID of the lower tube. That keeps it centered in the tube. The inside of that fitting is beveled to clear the upper lip of the seal so no damage to it.

 

Works fine and cheap to put together.

 

The second pic is the damper assembly. The right side (top of the damper) is where the nuts on the All Thread fit in. You can see the three washers on the bottom of the damper. There are two wave washers and one flat between them. Inspect and replace if you find any damage at all. These lil critters are important.

[KIC]

Hey Snaggletooth,

 

Could you explain a little more about the PVC piece on how it works and where exactly you beveled the lip, ground the hex head etc. I am having a hard time grasping that tool and it's use... thanks oh yea... and maybe post another picture or two of that tool.

[twigg]

Hey Snaggletooth,

 

Could you explain a little more about the PVC piece on how it works and where exactly you beveled the lip, ground the hex head etc. I am having a hard time grasping that tool and it's use... thanks oh yea... and maybe post another picture or two of that tool.

 

He assembles the fork tube seal onto the fork upper leg before inserting the upper leg back into the slider.

 

Then he uses the plastic pipe to drive the seal home into the lower leg. The pipe is long enough to go completely over the upper stanchion.

 

the outer edge is chamfered because the stock pipe is very slightly wider than the seal.

 

or something like that.

 

You can drive the seals in before replacing the upper leg, but the seal lips are delicate and it is better not to try it that way.

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Kevin,

 

I just got home but I'll be down in the shop tonight. I'll throw a few pics together for ya so ya get the whole visual thing.

 

I'm headed into another fork project pretty soon myself. I Finally found ANOTHER set of MKII forks to complete my R1 upgrade. Hope these are in better shape than the last set I got my hands on. Should have them early next week.

 

From that last experience ...... words of advice.

 

No matter how bad it is and how frustrated you get, NEVER, NEVER use a freaking chisel to cut out the seals!!! EVER!!!

 

Who ever owned that bike before it got parted out mangaged to pretty much destroy every part with any workable value. What a shame.

 

But I'll fix ya up later.

 

Mike

[twigg]

Getting those seals out can be ... er ... challenging. A chisel will make you swear for years to come

 

I found that there is a simple method that does no damage and seems to work.

 

Take the longest, widest flat-blade screwdriver you have. Jam the blade under the metal rim of the seal and lay the shaft across the fork tube. With your hand .... not a hammer .... simply hit the handle down sharply.

 

Those seals just pop right our and the seal seating area is protected from the screwdriver tip by the seal itself.

 

Alternatively ... buy a set of seal pullers and do it properly.

[MiCarl]

Getting those seals out can be ... er ... challenging. A chisel will make you swear for years to come

 

I found that there is a simple method that does no damage and seems to work.

 

Take the longest, widest flat-blade screwdriver you have. Jam the blade under the metal rim of the seal and lay the shaft across the fork tube. With your hand .... not a hammer .... simply hit the handle down sharply.

 

Those seals just pop right our and the seal seating area is protected from the screwdriver tip by the seal itself.

 

Alternatively ... buy a set of seal pullers and do it properly.

 

 

What seal are you talking about? The oil seal should come out with the bushing when you pull the tubes apart.

[Snaggletooth]

 

What seal are you talking about? The oil seal should come out with the bushing when you pull the tubes apart.

 

Yep, He's got me womdering about that to. Not so easy with the upper still in the lower.

 

And KIC, I said I post some pics tonight but I got called out. Tomorrow for sure.

 

MIke

[twigg]

 

What seal are you talking about? The oil seal should come out with the bushing when you pull the tubes apart.

 

The operative word is "should".

 

I agree, they should. Mine didn't. The fork stanchions came out of the sliders without moving the seals at all. They were in there tight. Without a seal puller I needed to find another way.

 

When they did come out, the new ones were a simple sliding fit.

 

So far, 5000 miles and no leaks

[MiCarl]

The operative word is "should".

 

I agree, they should. Mine didn't. The fork stanchions came out of the sliders without moving the seals at all. They were in there tight. Without a seal puller I needed to find another way.

 

When they did come out, the new ones were a simple sliding fit.

 

So far, 5000 miles and no leaks

 

What about the bushings?

[twigg]

What about the bushings?

 

The bushings showed no signs of wear. They will be replaced next time I change the seals.

 

The fork seals was the first job I did. I bought the bike and it came with a spare set of seals, and fork oil all over the front left brake caliper. Changing them was pretty easy and done without removing the forks from the triple tree.

 

I wanted to ride it but I couldn't in that condition, so I changed the seals, and rebuilt the brakes. I was expecting the seals to pop out by using the fork slider as a slide hammer, but the bushes pulled straight through the seals and I needed a rethink.

 

At some point I also need to change the steering head bearings ... if only because they are a critical component, and old, but as of now the handling is fine except for very slow corners ... Like intersections when there is a little uncertainty in the steering. Once the speed picks up it tracks straight and true, even with no hands so I figure a fork brace would help there. I learned quickly that it hates to go through slow speed, tight turns with a trailing throttle, but the handling is much better if you actually "drive" through those turns. It's never going to be a sportsbike

 

I can't feel any play at all in the forks or the steering head, it just seems that the forks are not well braced, and weedy for the size of the bike. That must be a feature.

 

The bike had covered 56k miles when I got it and someone had looked after it at least in the beginning. It has a Travelcade Road Sofa seat and Progressive Fork Springs. It had been badly neglected in the years before I got it though. That seat in comfortable for 1000 mile days, and I have tested that

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Snaggletooth,

 

Could you explain a little more about the PVC piece on how it works and where exactly you beveled the lip, ground the hex head etc. I am having a hard time grasping that tool and it's use... thanks oh yea... and maybe post another picture or two of that tool.

 

Hey KIC,

 

Sorry about the delay. Been kind of nuts here since out lil S**W storm rolled through. But here ya go....

 

The basic tools to get you through a seal replacement:

 

17mm Allen

10mm Allen

Damper tool

Seal Driver

And a way to drive in and seat the upper bushing. I use a section of brass round stock flattend and shaped but it's in somebody elses tool box at the moment.

 

From the other pic you saw the hex on that coupler. I grind that down to fit the top of the lower leg.

 

On the ID of the coupler I sand a bit of a bevel so the lip on the seal does not contact the PVC.

 

I shape the end of the coupler to be just a tad smaller than the seal.

 

Once you have the lower bushing on the upper leg along with the upper bushing, the bottom washer and the seal slid onto the upper leg you can slide the upper leg into the lower section and place the seal in position.

 

When it's squared up you're ready to drive it in.

 

Don't forget the upper washer and retainer clip.

 

I made my driver long enough to slide over the upper tube even with the spring in and capped off.

 

Hope there was something useful there.

 

Mike