KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #76 Posted February 12, 2012 I see you pulled the anti dives off. Since they're off it's not a bad idea to make sure they actually work. Hook them up to the harness and pull the brake lever with the key turned on. You should see the plunger move in the ports. Since you've broken the seal it'd be wise to replace those o-rings. Thanks. I will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #77 Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) I was curious as to what the bottom of the tude looked like that the oil lock slides over. Is there a chamfer one the lower edge? The seal plates I have, there is a chamfer where it would mate together. Reason I ask is, I am rebuilding my forks, maybe tomorrow, and I may have the wrong set of these tubes in my forks. Not a rush as I am stripping the red powder coat of the lowers and redoing them black. Gary Okay..still a little confused on your question and we may have to turn this into a phone call tomorrow. But if you are talking about the part name the cylinder in the first attachment below and the part number 12.42 in the 2nd attachment, then yes it has a beveled end that after the oil lock is installed it bevels down to a pointier end and is flush with where the bottom bolt ( part #10.49 ) in the 2nd attachment bolts in. Sorry I'm so slow in understanding exactly what you are asking... but if you want to talk about that 'Life is like a box of chocolates" I can have that discussion easy. Bill Edited February 12, 2012 by KIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 12, 2012 Share #78 Posted February 12, 2012 Okay..still a little confused on your question and we may have to turn this into a phone call tomorrow. But if you are talking about the part name the cylinder in the first attachment below and the part number 12.42 in the 2nd attachment, then yes it has a beveled end that after the oil lock is installed it bevels down to a pointier end and is flush with where the bottom bolt ( part #10.49 ) in the 2nd attachment bolts in. Sorry I'm so slow in understanding exactly what you are asking... but if you want to talk about that 'Life is like a box of chocolates" I can have that discussion easy. Bill I attached a picture with an arrow pointing to the edge I am curious about. Does just this edge have a slight chamfer on it in your setup. From looking at the seal plate that I have, there is a chamfer machined in it where it would mate to part in picture. It would be a way for me to ID ones in my forks now as being wrong part if there was a chamfer there. None of the other ones I have are chamfered. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #79 Posted February 12, 2012 Okay got it. I will take one of mine apart tomorrow and look at it and take a picture of it. I think it will be worth it for you and anybody else that might need an answer to that question. won't be until after 2pm EST since i won't get back from church until 12pm MST. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #80 Posted February 12, 2012 I attached a picture with an arrow pointing to the edge I am curious about. Does just this edge have a slight chamfer on it in your setup. From looking at the seal plate that I have, there is a chamfer machined in it where it would mate to part in picture. It would be a way for me to ID ones in my forks now as being wrong part if there was a chamfer there. None of the other ones I have are chamfered. Gary See if you type REAL s l o w and show pictures I can keep up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #81 Posted February 12, 2012 Gary, I took my forks apart. My end cup has the beveled edge too. The end of my tube that goes through the 3 springs and the oil lock has a slight groove around it. that fits snuggly into the beveled hole in the cup. It looks like that bevel is there to "guide the end down into the hole. The end of the tube fits evenly with the outer side of the cup if a slight pressure against the 3 washers are applied. Hope these pictures help. Also somebody asked what tool I made to assist in the lower bolt removal. I used a 22" piece of 1/2 inch PVC with a 1/2 "T" on top. I then placed a 5/8 2-inch long bolt with a nut turned all the way up to the head, into the pipe which screwed in snug. Before screwing in the bolt I placed some plastic epoxy in the PVC and on the threads. After screwing in the bolt I lightly tightened the nut against the PVS like a lock nut and let cure. It has worked perfectly and cost me about $6.00 with the epoxy being the most expensive part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #82 Posted February 12, 2012 I attached a picture with an arrow pointing to the edge I am curious about. Does just this edge have a slight chamfer on it in your setup. From looking at the seal plate that I have, there is a chamfer machined in it where it would mate to part in picture. It would be a way for me to ID ones in my forks now as being wrong part if there was a chamfer there. None of the other ones I have are chamfered. Gary Your end of the tube looks like it doesn't have the groove on the very end and looks fatter than my end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share #83 Posted February 13, 2012 Well the only thing left that I haven't been able to complete is get those $#@&*&$*$ wire locking clips in to the groove. Guess you can say I'm out of my groove. Or my groove is lacking, or... Well I do know what I can do with the Venture if I never get the forks fixed and back on the bike: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 13, 2012 Share #84 Posted February 13, 2012 I assume you mean the retaining clip above the seal. If it doesn't drop right in the seal isn't all the way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share #85 Posted February 14, 2012 Yea..that's the clip. Took it to my friends restoration shop. He tried to lower the seal and couldn't get them to move. After trying for a while, he suggested I disassemble the unit again and measure the thickness of the 3 pieces and compare the measurement of thickness to what the originals would have been. I am seriously thinking about making the first Venture sled racer like those in the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 14, 2012 Share #86 Posted February 14, 2012 You need to make sure the bushing is driven home before you install the seal. You aren't using the all balls seals are you? They are very difficult to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share #87 Posted February 15, 2012 I did make sure the bushing was all the way down. Checked both sides with a small screwdriver to make sure there wasn't even a slightest lip sticking up. I will pull them apart AGAIN ( read that with a big UUHG)and mic the thickness of all three pieces, the 2 washers and the seals. then mic the old seal and washers together. I used the new Pyramid seals that came with the bike. I guess I was warned by others on using non-OEM seals. The only other option would be to replace the top washer with a much thinner washer, but I don't like changing things like that. Seems to be 20/1000's to high for the lock ring to work. My friend also said if I pulled the seals, I could check how much rubber is around the bottom and possibly trim the bottom up to thin out the height. That seems to not have any impact on the seal's integrity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted February 16, 2012 Share #88 Posted February 16, 2012 I used the new Pyramid seals that came with the bike. I guess I was warned by others on using non-OEM seals. There is your problem......... :bang head: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share #89 Posted February 16, 2012 I am ordering OEM seals from SkyDoc_17. Lesson learned. Not worth trying non-OEM seals ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted February 16, 2012 Share #90 Posted February 16, 2012 I am ordering OEM seals from SkyDoc_17. Lesson learned. Not worth trying non-OEM seals ! Just make sure you wrap the groove on the tube with something like scotch tape to not damage the seal when you slide them over the tube. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share #91 Posted February 16, 2012 Yes.. I did that. Put a strip of scotch tape over them and the seals slid right on past with out any issues. I am getting so good at taking these apart and putting them together I could do it in my sleep.... apart..together..apart..together ...apart..together... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share #92 Posted February 19, 2012 A friend sent me this and i went through and added a few things from my current experience. Anybody who wants to add or correct this feel free. This will be good for someone contemplating this adventure on their Venture in the future...Like someone in Washington State...? There are also other suggestions for "homemade" tools by other members located within this thread. Required OEM Part Numbers 2 YA26H-23144-00-00 SEAL DUST 2 YA1NL-23145-00-00 OIL SEAL FORK 2 YA26H-2319L-00-00 WASHER FORK 1 EACH SIDE 4 YA26H-2319M-00-00 SPRING WASHER AKA WAVE WASHER 2 YA3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL SLIDE FORK BUSHING 2 YA3JJ-23171-00-00 PISTON, BUSHING You will need to have the following tools: Wrenches 10mm, 11mm, 12 mm and 19mm wrenches Sockets 6 point 10mm, 11mm, 12 mm (I use a 3/8" SAE drive) Socket 12 point 11/8" ½' drive Socket Hex 5mm, 10mm and 17mm (½" drive) ½" drive extension 8" in length ½" drive t-handle Dead blow hammer (preferable rubber faced) #2 Phillips screwdriver Gasket pick Curved jaw vise grip pliers Small brass drift pin Small tack hammer (preferably with a square shaped head) Hand impact driver with Phillips bit Small hand sledge (or a heavy framing hammer) Sharp point punch Air compressor and air wrench come in handy I recommend you have on hand some blue Permatex thread locker and a tube of Race Tech's Ultra Slick Seal grease. Shop rags or other absorbent materials. Pinch bar Extendible magnetic head pick up tool Electrical tape White grease or Petroleum Jelly New fork oil. You can also make a handy and cheap tool that will assist in the removal and re-installation of you fork parts by getting a 22-24-inch piece of ½=inch PVC. A 1/2 –inch PVC “T” and a 2-inch 5/8 bolt and a 5/8 nut that fits the bolt. Glue the “T” on one end of the pipe. Screw the nut to the top of the bolt. Place epoxy in the PVC pipe and on the bolt threads and screw the bolt all the way up to the nut. Then lightly, but firmly , back the nut against the PVC pipe end as you would using a locking nut. Let the epoxy cure. You now have a nice tool that will make it easy in dis assembly and reassembly. NOTE: It is firmly recommended that you use OEM seals as replacements. Some aftermarket seals are up to 1/16th taller than OEM seals and this will cause heartache and hassle when you want to reassemble. Start by putting the bike on the center stand and then cribbing/bracing the frame so the bike won't fall over on its side. Ensure you raise the front tire at least 2" off the ground. Put the key in the accessory position and reduce the air pressure to the front forks to 0 psi. If you forget this step, I guarantee you will be wearing fork oil. And your garage will be slippery for awhile !! Remove the key from the ignition and put it in a safe place. If you feel comfortable that you can get to the top of the fork tubes without removing the handlebars, so be it, however; I prefer to remove mine. Read all the following steps then start the work. Remove the plastic hoods from the left and right fairings. The Hazard flasher is found on the right hood. Tuck it into the coolant overflow compartment to hold it out of the way. Remove the Handlebar/Ignition switch cover. Remove the cover bracket (11/8" socket) and loosen the handlebars. Don't move them yet, use the Hand Sledge and the sharp point punch to mark where the slit sits on each so you put them back where you found them. Remove the rubber fork caps (if you still have them) Turn the wheel to one side. The manual suggests loosening the fork tube pinch bolts, DON'T. Using the 17mm hex socket loosen the fork cap bolt. The cap bolt may need to be persuaded with the dead blow hammer but it will loosen. Keep downward pressure as this keeps the spring compressed and stops parts from flying loose. Loosen it completely to remove residue air pressure from that fork tube and then tighten it back in place. Repeat the last step on the other tube. Remove fork brace, front fender and any fender accessories. Label any wiring as you disconnect it, believe me it'll save time later. Remove the brake calipers (and any chrome covers). I zip-tied them to the frame to hold them out of the way. Using the curved jaw vise grips remove the speedometer cable from the lower left side. Be careful the inner cable may slide loose. If so a piece of electrical tape will hold it in place. Put it up by the left caliper. Loosen and remove the pinch bolt on the lower right fork. Loosen and remove the axle and remove the front wheel. Use the hand impact to loosen the drain screws (one fork at a time). Remove the screw and drain the fork oil, I used an old coffee can as a drain container for this step.. At this time use a 5mm hex socket to remove the EAND unit on the fork. Careful as oil may spray out if you didn't follow step 5. Tie the EAND up to frame next to the caliper for that side. Be careful to not lose the two rubber washers. Repeat for the other fork. Using the air wrench with a 10mm hex socket through the bottom of the fork hold the fork tightly and loosen/remove the Allen head bolt. Repeat for other side. Inspect the brass washers, if worn replace them. They can and have been reused. I replaced mine. Use the gasket pick or a small blade straight screwdriver to genteelly raise the rubber dust cover. Then remove the retaining clip and put somewhere you won't misplace it. Try really, really, hard not to scratch the fork tube while doing this step. Go back to the top of the forks and remove the fork cap bolt and remove the inner parts. Remember they are still under pressure. Make note of which part goes where in case you don't have a manual to show their respective places. If you have Progressive Springs like mine remove the preload spacer and then the spring. Most of the oil should have drained but Shop Rags help catch any residual fluids. Place the spring somewhere they won't roll around and get dirty. Repeat for the other fork. Put the pinch bar through the axle hole in the bottom of the fork and using the dead blow hammer, pull down on the bar while striking it with the hammer. The lower fork tube should separate after a few blows. Repeat for the other side. You can also use the slide hammer method, but just BE VERY CAREFUL not to ”slam” the lower tubes up, or down, if you have the whole tube assembly off. There are ( on each side) 3 little washers The stealership wanted $9.++ each for them, and 2 small aluminum type “oil locks” that are around $53.00 each, that can be damaged. Carefull separation will save you headaches and $$$. I had mine off and had a friend hold them up shoulder height, while I did the slide hammer method. Some models ( like my 1989) have a UFO looking washer cup that sits in the very bottom of the tubes. Your oil lock will slide into this, if you have one. You will see the inner fork damper rod (complete cylinder) hanging out of the bottom of the top tube. If the oil lock piece and three special washers are still on it, consider yourself good. Otherwise use the magnetic pickup tool to remove them from the lower tube. Be sure you have all four pieces. Check the oil lock piece for wear, if its worn, replace it (OEM price $50.++ US each). This piece must work or your EAND air suspension won't!! Important Fork Seal Replacement for Dummies tip!! Do only one side at a time. It may take a few minutes longer but you'll have a sample of how it should look for reassembly purposes. Use the gasket pick to gently spread open the guide bushing and remove it. Catch the seal spacer as it drops off. Remove the slide bushing in the same manner as the guide bushing, catching the top seal spacer. Remove the dust cover. You can skip this step if you wish but it will help prolong the life of the seals and make installation easier. Pack the space in the bottom of the rubber seals and the dust caps with the Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease. Also, wrap some scotch tape around the lip/drove on the upper forks to assist in the sliding up, and prevent seal damage. Don’t forget to remove the tape. Put the replacement parts on this side reusing the seal spacers as you do so. Put on the dust cover, top seal spacer, oil seal, lower seal spacer. Slide these pieces most of the way up the tube and then use a piece of electrical tap wrapped around the tube to hold them in place. Now slide on the slide bushing (the smaller one) and then the guide bushing (the larger one) that should snap into the milled groove at the bottom of the tube. Repeat for the other fork. Put the fork spring and associated inner parts back into the forks and tighten the fork caps enough to hold everything securely. Use a glob of white grease or petroleum jelly and smear it around the damper rod (complete cylinder) where the smaller section is. Put one new wave washer, a flat washer, and a second wave washer on to this part. Next slide the oil lock piece onto the complete cylinder. IMPORTANT!!! The wider end goes down! If this is reversed you will lock the damper rod in the lower position, cancel out your air suspension, blow a new seal, have a rough riding bike and possibly wreck your ride. Place the outer fork tube over the inner tube, careful not to dislodge the washers and oil lock piece. Hold the outer tube securely and using the air wrench and 10mm hex drive socket, tighten the Allen head bolts. Now the hardest part of the whole procedure. Use some of the Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease around the space between the top of the outer tube and the inner tube where the seal bushing will go. Then with the small brass drift pin and small hammer, tap the seal into place. Be careful to NOT scratch the inner fork tube during this step. I used the side of the hammer head to strike the drift pin which I move alternately around the tube. When the seal is flush with the top of the outer fork tube, you are good to go. Remove the electrical tape from the inner tube and slide the lower seal spacer and oil spacer down enough to replace the tape to hold the upper seal spacer out of the way. Use more Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease and fill the space above the lower seal spacer where the oil seal will fit. Slide the oil seal down and gently tap the seal into place. Remove the electrical tape letting the upper seal spacer slide down into place. Replace the retaining clip. Fill the space around the clip with Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease and then slide the dust cover down and tap it into place to seal the outer tube. Repeat for the other fork tube. Replace the oil drain screw and use the hand impact to tighten the drain screws (one fork at a time). Use a 5mm hex socket to replace the EAND units on the forks. Torque these bolts to 5 ft-lbs or your wrist clicks. You don't want to over tighten these bolts. Replace the fork brace, front fender and any fender accessories. Reconnect your wiring. Reinstall wheel and axle. Replace and tighten axle pinch bolt. Replace speedometer cable. Now is a good time to clean and re-grease this cable. Replace brake calipers and any covers. Take off the fork cap bolts carefully the parts are under pressure. Remove whatever parts are needed to add the recommended amount of NEW fork oil. Replace parts. Replace the cap bolts and tighten. Replace the rubber cap covers. Replace the Handlebars and tighten their pinch bolts. Now is a good time to adjust them if they needed any to fit you instead of the previous owner. Replace the cover bracket and tighten the 11/8" nuts. Replace the Handlebar/Ignition switch cover. Tighten the two screws. Take the bike off the cribbing, clean up your work area and tools and wipe the grin off your face as you go for a test ride. GOOD LUCK !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted February 19, 2012 Share #93 Posted February 19, 2012 A friend sent me this and i went through and added a few things from my current experience. Anybody who wants to add or correct this feel free. This will be good for someone contemplating this adventure on their Venture in the future...Like someone in Washington State...? There are also other suggestions for "homemade" tools by other members located within this thread. Required OEM Part Numbers 2 YA26H-23144-00-00 SEAL DUST 2 YA1NL-23145-00-00 OIL SEAL FORK 2 YA26H-2319L-00-00 WASHER FORK 1 EACH SIDE 4 YA26H-2319M-00-00 SPRING WASHER AKA WAVE WASHER 2 YA3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL SLIDE FORK BUSHING 2 YA3JJ-23171-00-00 PISTON, BUSHING You will need to have the following tools: Wrenches 10mm, 11mm, 12 mm and 19mm wrenches Sockets 6 point 10mm, 11mm, 12 mm (I use a 3/8" SAE drive) Socket 12 point 11/8" ½' drive Socket Hex 5mm, 10mm and 17mm (½" drive) ½" drive extension 8" in length ½" drive t-handle Dead blow hammer (preferable rubber faced) #2 Phillips screwdriver Gasket pick Curved jaw vise grip pliers Small brass drift pin Small tack hammer (preferably with a square shaped head) Hand impact driver with Phillips bit Small hand sledge (or a heavy framing hammer) Sharp point punch Air compressor and air wrench come in handy I recommend you have on hand some blue Permatex thread locker and a tube of Race Tech's Ultra Slick Seal grease. Shop rags or other absorbent materials. Pinch bar Extendible magnetic head pick up tool Electrical tape White grease or Petroleum Jelly New fork oil. You can also make a handy and cheap tool that will assist in the removal and re-installation of you fork parts by getting a 22-24-inch piece of ½=inch PVC. A 1/2 –inch PVC “T” and a 2-inch 5/8 bolt and a 5/8 nut that fits the bolt. Glue the “T” on one end of the pipe. Screw the nut to the top of the bolt. Place epoxy in the PVC pipe and on the bolt threads and screw the bolt all the way up to the nut. Then lightly, but firmly , back the nut against the PVC pipe end as you would using a locking nut. Let the epoxy cure. You now have a nice tool that will make it easy in dis assembly and reassembly. NOTE: It is firmly recommended that you use OEM seals as replacements. Some aftermarket seals are up to 1/16th taller than OEM seals and this will cause heartache and hassle when you want to reassemble. Start by putting the bike on the center stand and then cribbing/bracing the frame so the bike won't fall over on its side. Ensure you raise the front tire at least 2" off the ground. Put the key in the accessory position and reduce the air pressure to the front forks to 0 psi. If you forget this step, I guarantee you will be wearing fork oil. And your garage will be slippery for awhile !! Remove the key from the ignition and put it in a safe place. If you feel comfortable that you can get to the top of the fork tubes without removing the handlebars, so be it, however; I prefer to remove mine. Read all the following steps then start the work. Remove the plastic hoods from the left and right fairings. The Hazard flasher is found on the right hood. Tuck it into the coolant overflow compartment to hold it out of the way. Remove the Handlebar/Ignition switch cover. Remove the cover bracket (11/8" socket) and loosen the handlebars. Don't move them yet, use the Hand Sledge and the sharp point punch to mark where the slit sits on each so you put them back where you found them. Remove the rubber fork caps (if you still have them) Turn the wheel to one side. The manual suggests loosening the fork tube pinch bolts, DON'T. Using the 17mm hex socket loosen the fork cap bolt. The cap bolt may need to be persuaded with the dead blow hammer but it will loosen. Keep downward pressure as this keeps the spring compressed and stops parts from flying loose. Loosen it completely to remove residue air pressure from that fork tube and then tighten it back in place. Repeat the last step on the other tube. Remove fork brace, front fender and any fender accessories. Label any wiring as you disconnect it, believe me it'll save time later. Remove the brake calipers (and any chrome covers). I zip-tied them to the frame to hold them out of the way. Using the curved jaw vise grips remove the speedometer cable from the lower left side. Be careful the inner cable may slide loose. If so a piece of electrical tape will hold it in place. Put it up by the left caliper. Loosen and remove the pinch bolt on the lower right fork. Loosen and remove the axle and remove the front wheel. Use the hand impact to loosen the drain screws (one fork at a time). Remove the screw and drain the fork oil, I used an old coffee can as a drain container for this step.. At this time use a 5mm hex socket to remove the EAND unit on the fork. Careful as oil may spray out if you didn't follow step 5. Tie the EAND up to frame next to the caliper for that side. Be careful to not lose the two rubber washers. Repeat for the other fork. Using the air wrench with a 10mm hex socket through the bottom of the fork hold the fork tightly and loosen/remove the Allen head bolt. Repeat for other side. Inspect the brass washers, if worn replace them. They can and have been reused. I replaced mine. Use the gasket pick or a small blade straight screwdriver to genteelly raise the rubber dust cover. Then remove the retaining clip and put somewhere you won't misplace it. Try really, really, hard not to scratch the fork tube while doing this step. Go back to the top of the forks and remove the fork cap bolt and remove the inner parts. Remember they are still under pressure. Make note of which part goes where in case you don't have a manual to show their respective places. If you have Progressive Springs like mine remove the preload spacer and then the spring. Most of the oil should have drained but Shop Rags help catch any residual fluids. Place the spring somewhere they won't roll around and get dirty. Repeat for the other fork. Put the pinch bar through the axle hole in the bottom of the fork and using the dead blow hammer, pull down on the bar while striking it with the hammer. The lower fork tube should separate after a few blows. Repeat for the other side. You can also use the slide hammer method, but just BE VERY CAREFUL not to ”slam” the lower tubes up, or down, if you have the whole tube assembly off. There are ( on each side) 3 little washers The stealership wanted $9.++ each for them, and 2 small aluminum type “oil locks” that are around $53.00 each, that can be damaged. Carefull separation will save you headaches and $$$. I had mine off and had a friend hold them up shoulder height, while I did the slide hammer method. Some models ( like my 1989) have a UFO looking washer cup that sits in the very bottom of the tubes. Your oil lock will slide into this, if you have one. You will see the inner fork damper rod (complete cylinder) hanging out of the bottom of the top tube. If the oil lock piece and three special washers are still on it, consider yourself good. Otherwise use the magnetic pickup tool to remove them from the lower tube. Be sure you have all four pieces. Check the oil lock piece for wear, if its worn, replace it (OEM price $50.++ US each). This piece must work or your EAND air suspension won't!! Important Fork Seal Replacement for Dummies tip!! Do only one side at a time. It may take a few minutes longer but you'll have a sample of how it should look for reassembly purposes. Use the gasket pick to gently spread open the guide bushing and remove it. Catch the seal spacer as it drops off. Remove the slide bushing in the same manner as the guide bushing, catching the top seal spacer. Remove the dust cover. You can skip this step if you wish but it will help prolong the life of the seals and make installation easier. Pack the space in the bottom of the rubber seals and the dust caps with the Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease. Also, wrap some scotch tape around the lip/drove on the upper forks to assist in the sliding up, and prevent seal damage. Don’t forget to remove the tape. Put the replacement parts on this side reusing the seal spacers as you do so. Put on the dust cover, top seal spacer, oil seal, lower seal spacer. Slide these pieces most of the way up the tube and then use a piece of electrical tap wrapped around the tube to hold them in place. Now slide on the slide bushing (the smaller one) and then the guide bushing (the larger one) that should snap into the milled groove at the bottom of the tube. Repeat for the other fork. Put the fork spring and associated inner parts back into the forks and tighten the fork caps enough to hold everything securely. Use a glob of white grease or petroleum jelly and smear it around the damper rod (complete cylinder) where the smaller section is. Put one new wave washer, a flat washer, and a second wave washer on to this part. Next slide the oil lock piece onto the complete cylinder. IMPORTANT!!! The wider end goes down! If this is reversed you will lock the damper rod in the lower position, cancel out your air suspension, blow a new seal, have a rough riding bike and possibly wreck your ride. Place the outer fork tube over the inner tube, careful not to dislodge the washers and oil lock piece. Hold the outer tube securely and using the air wrench and 10mm hex drive socket, tighten the Allen head bolts. Now the hardest part of the whole procedure. Use some of the Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease around the space between the top of the outer tube and the inner tube where the seal bushing will go. Then with the small brass drift pin and small hammer, tap the seal into place. Be careful to NOT scratch the inner fork tube during this step. I used the side of the hammer head to strike the drift pin which I move alternately around the tube. When the seal is flush with the top of the outer fork tube, you are good to go. Remove the electrical tape from the inner tube and slide the lower seal spacer and oil spacer down enough to replace the tape to hold the upper seal spacer out of the way. Use more Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease and fill the space above the lower seal spacer where the oil seal will fit. Slide the oil seal down and gently tap the seal into place. Remove the electrical tape letting the upper seal spacer slide down into place. Replace the retaining clip. Fill the space around the clip with Race Tech Ultra Slick Seal grease and then slide the dust cover down and tap it into place to seal the outer tube. Repeat for the other fork tube. Replace the oil drain screw and use the hand impact to tighten the drain screws (one fork at a time). Use a 5mm hex socket to replace the EAND units on the forks. Torque these bolts to 5 ft-lbs or your wrist clicks. You don't want to over tighten these bolts. Replace the fork brace, front fender and any fender accessories. Reconnect your wiring. Reinstall wheel and axle. Replace and tighten axle pinch bolt. Replace speedometer cable. Now is a good time to clean and re-grease this cable. Replace brake calipers and any covers. Take off the fork cap bolts carefully the parts are under pressure. Remove whatever parts are needed to add the recommended amount of NEW fork oil. Replace parts. Replace the cap bolts and tighten. Replace the rubber cap covers. Replace the Handlebars and tighten their pinch bolts. Now is a good time to adjust them if they needed any to fit you instead of the previous owner. Replace the cover bracket and tighten the 11/8" nuts. Replace the Handlebar/Ignition switch cover. Tighten the two screws. Take the bike off the cribbing, clean up your work area and tools and wipe the grin off your face as you go for a test ride. GOOD LUCK !!![/quote] GREAT JOB!!!!:clap2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 19, 2012 Share #94 Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) OK, you said we could comment, I am going to. Overall this is a very good writeup and good step by step guide to rebuilding forks. One of the steps not noted here is the alternative method of removing the complete fork assembly from the bike. This only involves the moderately difficult additional step of removing the air fittings that slide over the upper tubes. Having the complete assembly on a bench makes this an easier job. The one thing I strongly take exception to is using an impact to tighten any fastener when reassembling something like this. Use a torque wrench and set proper torque values. I attached a picture of tool that can be made for under $10 to loosen and tighten the damper rod. It is made from a 20" (or longer) piece of 5/8" thread-all and four 5/8" nuts. The 5/8" nut will engage with the hex opening in the top of the damper rod allowing it to be held is a fixed position while lower screw is removed or installed. Don't hate me because I gave some negative comments. My comments are in blue Gary A friend sent me this and i went through and added a few things from my current experience. Anybody who wants to add or correct this feel free. This will be good for someone contemplating this adventure on their Venture in the future...Like someone in Washington State...? file:///C:/Users/Dingy/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif (5)Turn the wheel to one side. The manual suggests loosening the fork tube pinch bolts, DON’T. Loosen the top tree pinch bolts. If these are not loosened, it will be more difficult to pull the upper plug out, some people have stripped this fastener by not loosening these upper pinch bolts. Don't loosen the lower triple tree pinch bolts at this point. Using the 17mm hex socket loosen the fork cap bolt. The cap bolt may need to be persuaded with the dead blow hammer but it will loosen. Keep downward pressure as this keeps the spring compressed and stops parts from flying loose. Loosen it completely to remove residue air pressure from that fork tube and then tighten it back in place. (9)Using the curved jaw vise grips remove the speedometer cable from the lower left side. Be careful the inner cable may slide loose. If installed properly this will not come out. There is a ferule at the top end that keeps it from sliding out. If so a piece of electrical tape will hold it in place. Put it up by the left caliper. (10)Loosen and remove the pinch bolt on the lower right fork. Loosen and remove the axle and remove the front wheel. (Some years have a cotter pin & nut on axle bolt also. 83-85) (3)Use the gasket pick to gently spread open the guide bushing and remove it. Catch the seal spacer as it drops off.( This one has smaller inner hole than top one. this is important, goes under seal) Remove the slide bushing in the same manner as the guide bushing, catching the top seal spacer,(This one has larger inner hole than lower one, this is important, goes on top of seal) Remove the dust cover. (7)Use a glob of white grease or petroleum jelly and smear it around the damper rod (complete cylinder) where the smaller section is. Put one new wave washer, a flat washer, and a second wave washer on to this part. Next slide the oil lock piece onto the complete cylinder. IMPORTANT!!! The wider end goes down! If this is reversed you will lock the damper rod in the lower position, cancel out your air suspension, blow a new seal (I don't think this will happen), have a rough riding bike and possibly wreck your ride. (8)Place the outer fork tube over the inner tube, careful not to dislodge the washers and oil lock piece. Hold the outer tube securely and using the air wrench and 10mm hex drive socket, (this is very bad way of doing this, never use an air wrench to tighten a bolt, Use the tool to come in from the top of the fork tube to engage the hex hole in the top of the damper rod. Picture attached. Tighten to 29 ft-lbs.) tighten the Allen head bolts (Place copper seal washer on allen bolt first). (14)Replace the oil drain screw and use the hand impact to tighten the drain screws (one fork at a time). (Should not use a hand impact on these screws, they are 4 mm, just a normal screwdriver JIS screwdriver is best to use, this is a Japanese standard that fits better. Use a sealer per service manual) Edited February 19, 2012 by dingy fixed grammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share #95 Posted February 19, 2012 Gary, I think your comments are good. As I stated, the core of this was sent to me. I made some modifications from my experience and left other stuff in that I wasn't too sure about. I want as much input on this so somebody in the future can get a clear idea as to what to do, or not do. If everybody tweaks it a little then we should get the best finished product. I like the pictures of the different tools. I was kinda hoping that once we got this tweak enough, we could start a fresh thread with this information and the pictures of all the tool options ( homemade ones) and maybe lock it for future use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share #96 Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) So here is the result of the pyramid vs. OEM seals... Looks like the overall height is the same from bottom to lip top, but the top it definitely different as they don't allow for the washer and lock ring.... The forks went together easier with the correct seals...imagine that... Edited February 21, 2012 by KIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share #97 Posted February 23, 2012 Can somebody tell me if it makes a difference whether these rubber cushions that go between the triple head and fork air "things" have to be installed one way or another ? With the flat side up or down ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 23, 2012 Share #98 Posted February 23, 2012 I don't think so, I put mine in with notches down yesterday. And if it makes you feel any better, I had to loosen tubes after I had them up and in to slip these in. Not quite up to your high score for dis/reassemblies but still an error. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share #99 Posted February 23, 2012 I don't think so, I put mine in with notches down yesterday. And if it makes you feel any better, I had to loosen tubes after I had them up and in to slip these in. Not quite up to your high score for dis/reassemblies but still an error. Gary Thanks for the painful reminder.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share #100 Posted February 24, 2012 Sooo... I got the fluid level matched,( no leaks yet ) put in the Progressives and wow.. are they high up in the tubes. They stop right at the lower cap threads. I have the PVC cut to 3/4's which i think is right for me. BUT..... there is always a BUT.... The next 3 pieces don't seem to want to fit in and be able to screw in the fork caps. I do not want to strip the cap threads so I am asking... Is this the right configuration that goes on top of the springs ? If so, any tips on how to compress and screw the tops on without stripping them ? The PVC isn't supposed to be inside the part with the seal that goes under the screw cap is it ? So close...and yet so far..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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