Dragonslayer Posted March 28, 2012 Share #26 Posted March 28, 2012 http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ always very happy to help on VR.org Does anyone know a good direct source for the MOSFET R/R? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 28, 2012 Share #27 Posted March 28, 2012 Does anyone know a good direct source for the MOSFET R/R? Talk to skydoc_17, Earl. He's selling a Shindengen MOSFET unit these days. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted March 30, 2012 Share #28 Posted March 30, 2012 Found out that when the bike gets warm from sitting stopped, the fan is coming on (I should have know that as I can hear it-has the Muzzie blade) and the extra current draw is more than the stator can handle. That's why the brake lights drop the voltage dramatically too. Looks like a new stator and R/R are in order. I have emailed Skydoc_17 to see if he has them available, or how long it will take him to get them. I may try my spare R/R tomorrow and see if that makes any difference (which I doubt), until I hear back from Skydoc_17. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 30, 2012 Share #29 Posted March 30, 2012 Sounds like a good plan JD. That should eliminate any possible issue. Wish I had done both of mine together and sooner, but back then we didn't have the MOSFET type R/R info to go with. My advice, for what it's worth, spend a few extra bucks and time to create a new harness dedicated to the charging system. I did away with any point that tied into the old harness and am having no issues any more. Set it up for the stator, R/R and the battery and install a 30amp Maxi fuse and holder in the new harness. Install the new R/R as close to the battery as possible. My point was if I had any kind of charging issue on the road I new exactly where to look. No chasing the OEM harness looking for problems. The unit Earl sells is a Shindengen also I think, similiar to what's in mine. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted May 15, 2012 Share #30 Posted May 15, 2012 Bought the stator/ R/R kit from skydoc. Got it installed. I relocated the R/R under the rear trunk. Now I have a high pitched loud squeal in the passenger audio system, running or not with the key in the run and acc position. Could running the wires along the frame next to the audio cable to the rear cause this? There is no noise in the driver audio headset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 15, 2012 Share #31 Posted May 15, 2012 Bought the stator/ R/R kit from skydoc. Got it installed. I relocated the R/R under the rear trunk. Now I have a high pitched loud squeal in the passenger audio system, running or not with the key in the run and acc position. Could running the wires along the frame next to the audio cable to the rear cause this? There is no noise in the driver audio headset. im not sure. i kept mine in the stock location. i guess there are different places to put this r/r. i replaced my fuel pump with a 42S. and moved it a little higher, so the new r/r went back into its stock place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted May 16, 2012 Share #32 Posted May 16, 2012 I guess no one has a suggestion. This weekend I'll pull the seat and pull the wiring out and unbolt the R/R and lay it on the ground and see if the noise goes away. If so, then I will try to find another place to mount it and run the wiring away from any other wiring. Maybe route wiring in metal sleeving or tube. If I can find 14 gauge twisted shielded wire I will replace wiring from stator to R/R and ground the shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted May 16, 2012 Share #33 Posted May 16, 2012 Is it possible that you knocked a ground loos from the passenger wires. There should be nothing to make noise with the engine not running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted May 16, 2012 Share #34 Posted May 16, 2012 I will pull the seat this weekend and check all the wires and grounds. I unplugged the 5 pin connector when I pulled the trunk off to mount the R/R. That connection and the light connector are the only ones I remember back there. The noise is like a really fast oscillating circuit/clipping circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Power Trippin Posted May 16, 2012 Share #35 Posted May 16, 2012 Bought the stator/ R/R kit from skydoc. Got it installed. I relocated the R/R under the rear trunk. Now I have a high pitched loud squeal in the passenger audio system, running or not with the key in the run and acc position. Could running the wires along the frame next to the audio cable to the rear cause this? There is no noise in the driver audio headset. DEFINITELY YES... This will cause interference with audio wires. If it is possible, run the wires on opposite sides of the bike. Example, keep audio wires on one side and the wires for the r/r on the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted May 16, 2012 Share #36 Posted May 16, 2012 I pulled the seat when I got home. Plugged in the headset and turned the key on. Had lots of squealing. I wiggled the 5 pin connector under the seat and the noise went away and the music came on. I wiggled again and got the squeal. I unplugged it, plugged it back in until it seemed to click into place. Works good now. I had put some dielectric grease in it and apparently it was too much and didn't allow it to seat properly. All is well in passengerville now. My wife is happy again. Now I have to replace one of the speaker in my helmet so I will get stereo again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calgaryrider Posted May 17, 2012 Share #37 Posted May 17, 2012 "The gasket was like a piece of granite bonded to the cover - very difficult to remove. " Just pulled my cover and got to thinking about how to remove the old gasket without damaging the flange. Any ideas? Also when I eventualy beat out those screws I think I'll have to get new ones, 25 years later they're not making it easy to come out:depressed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 17, 2012 Share #38 Posted May 17, 2012 Auto part stores sell spray gasket remover. Great way to save time and headaches. Spray it on ...... let it soak for bit a gently scrape it off. Better than spending all day scraping. With the really tough one a few coats should get you through it. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted May 17, 2012 Share #39 Posted May 17, 2012 I had a can of Graffiti remover that softened mine and it peeled off easily. I have used the gasket remover spray before and it does work good but couldn't find mine this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted May 17, 2012 Share #40 Posted May 17, 2012 Here are some pictures of where I mounted the R/R and how I routed the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted May 17, 2012 Share #41 Posted May 17, 2012 Anyone have part numbers or a source for the gaskets and copper washer? I did not realize I need a second gasket and a copper washer. Glad I read this before starting the stator replacement. And I really wish I knew about Skydoc's kit before I spent more than that on finding all the parts. Ricks does not stock the hot shot anymore so they had to wind one custom for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted May 17, 2012 Share #42 Posted May 17, 2012 Anyone have part numbers or a source for the gaskets and copper washer? I did not realize I need a second gasket and a copper washer. Glad I read this before starting the stator replacement. And I really wish I knew about Skydoc's kit before I spent more than that on finding all the parts. Ricks does not stock the hot shot anymore so they had to wind one custom for me. Skydoc...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdross440 Posted September 12, 2012 Share #43 Posted September 12, 2012 My voltage problem is getting bad. Now I don't get more than 11.9 volts at 4000 rpm, about 11 at 2000 and 9.9 at idle. I unplugged the stator wires and hooked up ac volt meter. At 2000 rpm I get right at 15V AC across 2 of the leads. The 3rd one only has 7.5 V AC, engine basically cold (5 minutes run time). I checked between the windings and getting about 3.5 to 4.5 ohms between any two. Also checking to ground none show a short. It is to the point it doesn't matte if the engine is cold or hot. At first it was when it would get hot the voltage would drop like this. I bought the stator and regulator through Sky_doc and installed in early April. Yesterday morning it was 55 degrees. It was putting out 13.5 volts until about 10 miles (when bike got warmed up), then it fell on it's face and dropped to 11.5 max-at 4K rpm. I have a digital voltmeter connected. Factory meter was showing down between 12 and yellow mark. This morning it was 62 degrees. It was putting out only 13.2 volts for about the same distance and then fell to 11.8. At idle it went down to 10.1. Apply brakes and it would drop into the 9.5 range and factory meter drops in to top of yellow. I may have to bite the bullet and order a stator from Rick's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted September 12, 2012 Share #44 Posted September 12, 2012 What is the opinion on the best high output stator, the one Rick's sells or the one Buckeye sells? I have one made by Electrosports that has a winding dead. I've never been happy with it. Can the relay be removed from the anti-dive system and disable it without blocking it off? i put in a Ricks hot shot after going thru a handful of others in 6 months...$$$$$$$$...so far no issues with Ricks, i also put in a Shindigen R/R at the same time and mounted it to the front of the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted September 12, 2012 Share #45 Posted September 12, 2012 i put in a Ricks hot shot after going thru a handful of others in 6 months...$$$$$$$$...so far no issues with Ricks, i also put in a Shindigen R/R at the same time and mounted it to the front of the bike. red do you have the part # on that from ricks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted September 13, 2012 Share #46 Posted September 13, 2012 red do you have the part # on that from ricks 21-405h http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-405H&pmc=ODVZYW1YVloxMjAwVmVudHVyZQ== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted September 13, 2012 Share #47 Posted September 13, 2012 i put in a Ricks hot shot after going thru a handful of others in 6 months...$$$$$$$$...so far no issues with Ricks, i also put in a Shindigen R/R at the same time and mounted it to the front of the bike. 21-405h http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-405H&pmc=ODVZYW1YVloxMjAwVmVudHVyZQ== thanks red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted September 13, 2012 Share #48 Posted September 13, 2012 this is the r/r i went with, guess hes out of stock. might want to call. http://motoelectrixcom.myshopify.com/products/shindengen-mosfet-fh012aa-regulator-rectifier-kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted September 13, 2012 Share #49 Posted September 13, 2012 160.00 beats 239.00 plus 30.00 core and shipping thanks red:cool10: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted September 13, 2012 Share #50 Posted September 13, 2012 i have both links saved in my bookmarks i will check back with him on the r/r later this month Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now