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At wit's end!!!


jachuck49

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I've been bleeding the rear/front brakes for a week and still not much difference.Today I did it again...and if I "pump "them up ,I have good brakes until I get stopped...but when I go to use the foot brake again,say within a block,...NOTHING!!!(or very little). There's no leaks...replaced all brake pads (used kevlar pads) rebuilt rear caliper...put speed bleeders all around..Disc thickness is .331 (plenty thick) ran a 1/2 qt of fluid thru the system????? It did feel like the brakes were fading off as I held them down...(This is on my 84 venture)The only thing I can think of next is to rebuild/replace the rear master cyl.The repair manual says to replace the proportioning valve when yor rebuild the master cyl...anyone else have this much trouble?????

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Being that the rear petal controls both the front left caliper and the rear one, you may still have air in the system. Did you bleed it up at the steering head? I usually bleed the rear caliper 1st and get it solid there, then I go to the bleeder up by the steering head and get solid fluid from there, then down to the front left caliper and the anti dive. It's not a lot of fun sometimes, I have gone through it. ou can also try to reverse bleed it by pushing fluid back through the lines and into the master cylinder. I one day spent 2 weeks bleeding brakes on a 1st gen, a vacuum bleeder is a nice thing to have too.

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What Squid said!! These things don't like to give up the air they catch. Keep plenty of paper towels handy when you do that one by the steering head. You will probally get your air there. Brake fluid is the best paint remover there is. Will also ruin plastic. You can spend hours pumping on those things. Speedbleeders best thing they ever came up with.

Edited by Yammer Dan
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If you keep losing pressure at the rear brake it may be time to rebuild that rear master cylinder. There is a tiny orifice in the cylinder that can get clogged real easy, thereby making you lose the pressure. This may not be the issue but you never know. If you do rebuild it, make sure you clean it thoroughly and blow it out with a good shot of air. I found this out the hard way on my old 83.

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I think they call that little hole the spooge hole over at xs11 s channel 11. It is easily overlooked but the eleven guys say its vital to be cleaned.

 

 

If you could find out what the size of this hole is, that would be valuable info. It will be a tiny drill, but Yamaha had to have one to drill it when manufactured.

 

Gary

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I don't think the MKI's have the steering head bleeder. I know the 83 doesn't. Thought this was added on the 86-93 bikes.

 

Gary

 

I believe that the '83 was the only one that didn't have it. Now I could be mistaken, but I want to say that my '84 had one, hopefully a MKI guy will come on and pipe up.

 

If you could find out what the size of this hole is, that would be valuable info. It will be a tiny drill, but Yamaha had to have one to drill it when manufactured.

 

Gary

 

I have always used a tip cleaner for a cutting torch and that has worked out well.

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I believe that the '83 was the only one that didn't have it. Now I could be mistaken, but I want to say that my '84 had one, hopefully a MKI guy will come on and pipe up.

 

Looked at the parts fiche and it shows top bleeder was added in 86.

 

But the manual has been wrong on more than a dozen occasions though.

 

Gary

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My '84 did not have one stock. Just the metering valve. Just wrap the valve housing with a rag and crack the line fitting to bleed it. It works.

 

I added the SS lines from Buckeye Performance a couple of years ago and they added a bleeder line that is about 4 inches long off the metering valve. I have it sticking out under the right side of the fairing stay. Nice to have and speeds up the process.

 

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey y'all, I haven't been around in a while. Glad to see things are still hoppin' here!

 

My 87 has always been like this with the brake pedal. Works OK, but not great, and a couple pumps on the pedal every time really help. Braking overall using the foot and the hand is pretty good. I've put enough miles on it now to observe that I'm wearing out the rear pads and the front RH pads (hand brake), but not the LH front pads. So, I'm assuming the air hanging out in the foot brake is in the front line, causing that caliper to develop very little force.

 

You guys mention that they are sometimes a real bear to bleed, and that a vac pump or speed bleeders can help (I have a Mity Vac), but you also say you've been frustrated by it all the same! Is there any trick or process, that can improve on how we bleed these things?

 

Also, do y'all have a trick for keeping the rear MC reservoir full? I really don't like the solid metal tank with the little fill hole.

 

Jeremy

Edited by Gearhead
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I believe that the '83 was the only one that didn't have it. Now I could be mistaken, but I want to say that my '84 had one, hopefully a MKI guy will come on and pipe up.

 

My 85 didnt have one orginally, but it does now with the ss lines.....

 

Brian

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The trick I use to fill the rear is one of those flavor injectors you use for seasoning roasting bird. Dull the sharp tip off to avoid poking a hole in the rubber bellows. I just fill the injector up with fluid, leave it stuck in the fill hole and start start bleeding and give it a boost now and then to keep it full.

 

I don't use a vac or speed bleeder. I just go in this order and it works well for me.

 

Rear 1st, then the metering valve at the tree, then the LF caliber then the anti-dive (which you don't have). Then pump as much fluid as needed to run clear at the anti-dive. Even bleeding at the metering valve I can still get some bubbles at the AD. Some times it can take a bit.

 

I top off the rear master and close it then crack the rear caliper bleeder to remove a bit from the master so it don't seize up when the fluid gets hot. A take an 8mm wrench on the first test ride so I can crack it again if needed.

 

I've had worse trouble with bubbles in the front master at the banjo bolt.

 

Mike

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